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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: frank mccune on September 24, 2017, 07:23:31 AM
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Hello All:
I have been contemplating building another Green Box Nobler that I have in my stash but I do have some reservations. If I remember correctly, these things were a real chore to assemble. This leads me to the question are the results worth the problem.
Perhaps I should replace the built up tail with solid pieces and avoid having to carve all of those blocks of balsa. Or sell this kit and purchase a more modern kit that is easier to assemble. There are many really nice kits out there that are laser cut, self jigging and are easier to build. Perhaps a RTF or RTC kit would be a better choice.
Thoughts and/or comments,
Frank McCune
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Make all those changes and it not a Green Box Nobler any more. Send me the kit and go buy the Brodak version of the Original Nobler. I built mine in the bed room I shared with my Dad and put many flights on it. Had McCoy 35 Redhead for power. This was the kit that didn't make it to the house before Christmas. H^^
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Hello All:
I have been contemplating building another Green Box Nobler that I have in my stash but I do have some reservations. If I remember correctly, these things were a real chore to assemble. This leads me to the question are the results worth the problem.
Perhaps I should replace the built up tail with solid pieces and avoid having to carve all of those blocks of balsa. Or sell this kit and purchase a more modern kit that is easier to assemble. There are many really nice kits out there that are laser cut, self jigging and are easier to build. Perhaps a RTF or RTC kit would be a better choice.
Thoughts and/or comments,
It depends on what you want to do.
If you just want a Nobler to sport-fly, then go right ahead. It's harder to build than some models, but not a lot worse than any others that are similar. Just build whatever you want, and have fun with it.
If you want to advance your skills, and maybe become involved with competition, based on your previous posts, this is probably not a good place to start. There are many airplanes of similar or less complexity to build that are much better fliers. It's no harder to build an Impact to the required quality, possibly easier, and in that case, you probably won't end up replacing 75% of the wood like you would want to do with the Nobler unless you are just lucky. An Impact flies much better than a green box Nobler and uses a modern powerplant system that will not require replacing as you advance. On the other hand, there are even more airplanes that are likely to fly better than a Nobler in practical terms that are FAR easier to build. Most people will never build a Nobler that is entirely correct to the point of getting the full possible performance out of it, but lots of people can build a Skyray or Flite Streak well enough.
To make any such decisions, you need to decide what engine you have that is sure to work well. For developing competition skills, forget any of the ancient engines like the Fox/McCoy/Johnson/ST46, etc. Get a few modern engines that you know will work and can still be supported, like a "new" 25LA, Aero-Tiger, PA or Jett 61-75, etc. NO "modified for lucky best stunt run" Dremel tool jobs. Based on your posts, you have never had any good stunt engines or at least have all sorts of problems getting engines to run, so instead of trying to get ancient engines of dubious heritage, get some new or lightly used and UNMODIFIED ones that are known to work from either major manufacturers like OS or reputable semi-customs from Randy or Jett.
Depending on your skill level or likelihood of crashing repeatedly, smaller profiles can be built in bulk and easily repaired at the field would be best. You need to be willing to take chances to learn and you aren't going to be able to do that if one crash wipes you out for weeks.
Brett
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Sounds like you're not committed to a Nobler, per se, but just happen to have a kit. In that case I think "option B" is the best course, sell the old kit and get something modern. A Vector 40 or Legacy 40 kit from Brodak would be an excellent choice in the range of smaller models (550 or so inches rather than 680). I built a kit Vector and it went together easily, all laser cut. Pretty good wood from Brodak. Put an LA46 (STOCK!!) in it and enjoy. Brodak also has a laser-cut Original (1952 version) Nobler, also laser cut and easy to put together. I built one, have it ready for final color coats. An LA25 (newest version) would probably haul a Nobler just fine, way more power than the ancient engines of yore. Brodak reportedly has a shipment of the latest ARF (and maybe ARC) Vector 40 and SV11 on the way from China. The newer ones have good quality control components that do not need to be replaced. The SV11 and Vector ARFs are both made for electric power, not sure if there even is an IC version any more. Check with Brodak, they are happy to take phone calls.
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Green box Nobler does not have blocks . It is almost all sheeted body. Brodak Nobler has all the blocks just like the original model did. Green box Noblers builds up very light but the body is week at the openings at the trailing edge of the wing.
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The SV11 and Vector ARFs are both made for electric power, not sure if there even is an IC version any more. Check with Brodak, they are happy to take phone calls.
Vector 40 and SV11 ARFs and ARCS will be available in IC, and as ARFS for electric
https://stunthanger.com/smf/arf's/new-brodak-e-vector-40/msg495361/#msg495361
(scroll down to post #6)
Randy Smith says he will have them in early October.
Pat MacKenzie
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Perhaps I should replace the built up tail with solid pieces and avoid having to carve all of those blocks of balsa.
If you are going to change the tail for goodness sake, make it larger, at least 125 square inches.
As EddyR notes, it has relatively few blocks to carve compared to the original design. It's actually very nicely engineered for the era, blocks would be easier to deal with (but cost much more) and you *do not want* the kind of blocks that Top Flite would have to use for cost savings. The kit limitations are in the area of wood quality and die cutting, more than the engineering.
Brett
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I had one of the SV11 ARF's several years ago and found it to be a very competitive stunter. I used a OS55AX engine on a 13-4 APC prop and it took 1.25 oz of lead in the tail to get the CG where it belonged but it trimmed well and flew an excellent pattern with very good corners. Several other fliers here in Tucson flew it and all agreed that it was a competitive setup. Mr Bob Whitely was in fact one of them. I gave the airplane to Chip Hyde when he came here and crashed his Nobler and He took it back to CA with him and used it to continue to hone his pattern.
I intend to get another one as soon as they are available. I think it probably is the best of the ARF lot and except for appearance points can be competitive with the best when properly trimmed! Easy honest airplane to fly well!
Incidentally...although a bit heavy the OS55AX is an overlooked GEM for a stunt engine for large planes!
It requires nothing but a venturi and Aeroproducts needle valve assy (.274 diameter worked best here in Tucson) and it gave excellent stunt runs on 10-22 fuel.
Randy Cuberly
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Check the balsa in the kit before you build. I still remember my Green Box Nobler with all of it's rock hard balsa - all of the cap strips split on me when I was pinning them down (of course, I was in 8th grade and didn't know to do it other ways. But, just saying....) It only took me 8 years to build (I'd get frustrated with it and go build a Ringmaster or FliteStreak instead.)
Get yourself an LA-46 and then buy a kit that can get pulled by it...