I’m new, I hope I’m posting in correct place

[Robert Kaufman]

Hello, I’ll try to make this short. I am 54. I flew u-control when I was  young then Rc. I had a eindecker, ringmaster, lil satan etc. a few years ago a friend and I bought combat wings like lil saran with norvel .061 on them. We flew alone and twice in same ring. It was comical. Here is a link to YouTube video of it.  https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=89qecvJnOyE&feature=youtu.be  The end of video we are flying together. Ok.,… now on to my question. I purchased an electric ringmaster from Vintage performance. Very nice kit. I have flown electric rc but it has a throttle. Since this is wide open with a timer, is there a problem if you crash, break a prop or prop spins loose and motor runs full speed with no load till you can get to the plane and pull the battery? If I’m posting question in wrong place, please let me know

Thank you

Robert

[Peter in Fairfax, VA]

Good luck with that electric Ringmaster.  As I understand it, the primary concern with electric crashes is a prop strike causing the ESC to fail from overload, which can be costly.

https://stunthanger.com/smf/gettin-all-amp'ed-up!/smoked-an-esc-this-morning!/msg167735/#msg167735

You're in the right place and should get plenty of info.  There is also an electric section to the site.

Glad to hear of your adventures; welcome.

Peter

[Ken Culbertson]

Welcome to the forum.  I am 100% electric and loving it.  Let me try and answer some of your questions.  The motors run at whatever RPM's the esc/timer tells it to regardless of it having a prop or not.  Not like an IC which pretty much just melts down.  I routinely run mine up w/o a prop to test things.  You have about 20 seconds before you need to shut it off.  If you use quality ESC's and timers, most of them have shut down in one form or another if the prop stops turning.  We have some pretty knowledgeable people in the forum, lots to read and most don't mind helping however they can.

Good luck and again - welcome

Ken

[Dennis Toth]

Robert,
I don't know what ESC you are using but you want to go to the setup section and look for cut-off. There should be one for low voltage and one for amps. Set the voltage for ~3.3 for lipo's, soft cut-off. For the amps you want to do normal sensitivity and fast cut-off. This allows for a slow shutdown if you start to run over on time. But if you nose over or crash it cuts off quick before it smokes the ESC or motor.

Best,    DennisT

[Robert Kaufman]

So it looks to me like a castle creation Phoenix would be a good choice? Seem pretty pricey? I have a 3536 910 kv 1050 g pull motor. Says it needs a 50 amp esc. Max power is 370 watt 2s lipo with 12x5 prop or 4s with 10x7 prop. Would anyone be willing to recommend a decent esc, timer, battery and prop to start with? I appreciate it. I don’t want to spend a ton but I will do what it takes to make it right and safe

[Ken Culbertson]

So it looks to me like a castle creation Phoenix would be a good choice? Seem pretty pricey? I have a 3536 910 kv 1050 g pull motor. Says it needs a 50 amp esc. Max power is 370 watt 2s lipo with 12x5 prop or 4s with 10x7 prop. Would anyone be willing to recommend a decent esc, timer, battery and prop to start with? I appreciate it. I don’t want to spend a ton but I will do what it takes to make it right and safe

The Castle ESC are very good.  Many of our expert fliers use them.  I use the Jetti Spin myself but I started with the Castle and the Huben timer.  There are cheaper ESC's but the quality and support for Castle is worth the extra price.  As you will find out, it is the timer that stars in the show.  The Huben is inexpensive, simple but effective.  The ESC is the supporting actor in the play.  Go with the 4s or battery.  I don't think most of the 3536 motors support higher voltages.  The prop choice depends on what you are flying.  Most of the folks I fly with run three blade 11-12" props in the 5-6" pitch range.  I mostly fly the cheaper Master Airscrew flat back props but I am in the minority around here.  A decent CF prop can cost $75 or more.  We run lower RPM's that the RC folks.  My ships have all trimmed out between 8,000 and 9,500 RPM.

Welcome to the dark side - ken

I hope some of the others, especially those getting good results from the less expensive ESC's, chime in and give you some options.  I would certainly run your choice through the forum before you buy one.  Some work for CL some don't do so well.

[PerttiMe]

What size/weight is the model?
https://vintageperformancemodelairplanes.com/products/electric-rimgmaster-kit does not give a lot of information.

I suspect some may have given suggestions for a larger model.

[Brent Williams]

So it looks to me like a castle creation Phoenix would be a good choice? Seem pretty pricey? I have a 3536 910 kv 1050 g pull motor. Says it needs a 50 amp esc. Max power is 370 watt 2s lipo with 12x5 prop or 4s with 10x7 prop. Would anyone be willing to recommend a decent esc, timer, battery and prop to start with? I appreciate it. I don’t want to spend a ton but I will do what it takes to make it right and safe

What brand of 3536/910kv motor is that?  Is it a 35mm diameter round can or a 42mm round can?  If it is a 35mm can, then it would be equivalent to a 2814. 
I presume you mean 105g for the weight of the motor, which also matches up accurately to a 2814 size. 
910KV is appropriate for 4 cell batteries.  Something around 4S/1800mah should be perfectly adequate for a Ringmaster.
An APC 9x6e or 10x6e is appropriate for that motor and a Ringmaster size airplane.
A 35 amp ESC is more than plenty for a Ringmaster.  Castle Talon 25 or 35.
Hubin FM-9 timer plus the programming box.

The climb/dive timer from Circuit Flier is new on the market and may be a good choice for you if you are handy with soldering.  https://circuitflyer.com/Climb_and_Dive/
It is programmable via a smart phone.  It supplies the governor functions and does not require the more expensive Castle ESC.   It provides strike protection and many other neat features.  A $20 ZTW Beatles G2 ESC would be great with this timer.

[Ken Culbertson]

Brent, you make a good point.  The motor may be too much for a ringmaster.  It appears to have the same specifications as the Turnigy 3536 which is a 35mm can but is only 35a.
I have never used the cheaper brands but I suspect they are still pretty good.  What I don't know is if they have output similar to the Cobra/BadAss class motors of the same size that are rated up to 6s.  I suspect that a 23xx or 28xx is more than enough for a ringmaster on a 9-10" prop.  The only problem I have with the Huben timer is the expensive programming box that, to my knowlege has no other use.  Once we know the exact motor he has, things will become clear what to do.  The "3536 910 kv 1050 g" is a pretty popular size with the Chinese motors which leads me to believe they are all made by the same manufacturer.

Ken

[John Rist]

I have had good luck with the KR timers.  They work with any cheep ESC.

KR Governor Ver.2 With Push Button Switch & Program Stick. The KR Governor is really a Flight Manager since it controls RPM, Start Delay, Flight time & features increased RPM when you enter any maneuver (similar to how a tuned pipe glow system works). NOTE: THIS PACKAGE IS RECOMENDED FOR PROFILE MODELS

The KR Governor Flight Manager comes with a soft start included plus it shuts down the entire electrical system in the event of a prop strike. It allows you to use an inexpensive ESC so it provide superior performance when compared to any other timer combined with less cost overall. Part Number: KRPKGPB

https://www.rsmdistribution.com/index.php

[Robert Kaufman]

This is the motor… It’s Chinese but in got good reviews. I did the math and figure with a 4s pack, current will be around 25 amps. I have an inexpensive 40 amp esc. I looked at the kr governor timer. I like the features and ease of programming with stick. Here is the motor https://m.flashhobby.com/d3536-fixed-wing-motor.html

[Robert Kaufman]

I really appreciate the advice. Thank you! I’m reading and learning

[redout]

Not entirely relevant to your questions, but some is :

On my first electric plane, a Flite Streak, I used a Turnigy 3536-1200 kV motor, 111 grams, 560 W max, 38 A max. Being 1200 kV, I went with 3S ( and 2200 mAh ) battery power. Like someone else said, you will need 4S battery power for your motor's 910 kV. Bear in mind, a motor's advertised max. power figure is kind of a guide only as much more can be extracted from a motor ( user beware... )

I did a little pre-testing before I flew and changed a 60 A ESC for a 40 A, as the higher current rating was not needed. My ESC is a Hobbywing 40A Platinum Pro, I think not available any more. My timer is a Hubin    FM-1. These are the ones that do not need the expensive programming box, as they have 4 pots for flight time, power, delay and power increase during flight ( I think I have those correctly described. ) The pots adjust very simply with a screwdriver. These work great, at least for a beginner, and they are cheap.

I ended up using a APC 10 x 5 E and launch revs were around 11 500 rpm, with power set at 70 %, motor making around 400W and drawing around 38 A. I'm pretty sure the current draw goes down ( maybe 20 % ? ) in flight due to propellor unloading. I get around 3 and a half minutes flight time, running the batteries down to about 30 % left.

The Flite Streak is fast with this set-up, I'm estimating 4.5 second laps but I think these little planes need the speed ( not sure ). Anyway, the line tension is good including up high so I'm happy to accept the fast laps.

I can't recall if anyone above said this, but if not, you must get hold of a watt-meter if you are experimenting a bit. Cheap, maybe $ 20, and invaluable to test your set-up before flight to preclude possibly burning up motors and esc's.

And finally, the Hubin FM-1 timer obviously does not have a prop-strike high current shut-off and also, as far as I knew, my ESC did not have this feature either. Yet I have crashed about 3 times and somehow my motor shut-off each time. I guess I have to conclude my ESC does in fact have this feature ! 

If you could get hold of one of these ( currently out of stock ), it looks like a great low-cost ESC for c/l use.

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/yep-40a-2-6s-sbec-brushless-speed-controller.html?wrh_pdp=2

[Fred Cronenwett]

You can also install a 2.4 Ghz system for throttle control. Since you probably only want throttle get a car radio and use the trigger in your left hand while flying the model in your right hand. The reciever would replace the timer, with BEC the ESC can power up the reciever. BEC stands for Battery elimator circuit.

Our club has a double size ringmaster with throttle control using this type of setup. Good thing it has throttle, since it's a .90 powered 84" span model, nice to just throttle back and land when you are ready.