Getting close with the Chipmonk

[Brian Massey]

The last time I posted on my Chipmonk I was concerned about weight. Well I'm not as bad off as I thought. I still have to spray a few coats of white, (I've been waiting for several weeks to spray, but the weather has remained to damp) and then the trim colors followed by clear. Assembled and "ready to fly" it tips the scales at 48.4 ounces; better than I thought I might be. With any luck it will finish at about 51 ounces. The B-40 will be fine with that; at least I hope so.

When I trimmed the canopy to fit, I discovered a small ommission; I forgot the trim pieces along the side of the cockpit.  Oh well, back on the stand and the pieces are now drying in place.

Brian

[Dan McEntee]

  Do yourself a favor and decide if you REALLY need more white? White is one of the most transparent colors, and guys tend to lay on more than they need to "cover." Think about more trim colors and detail. If the current level of white is pretty even, you will be surprised how much the trim will hide and direct attention from where you think the white is too light. Ink lines and lettering tend to break things up also. I'll bet you can save a couple of ounces that way. From the photos, it looks pretty even to me, but being there and up close is different. Stand back 5 feet from it and see how it looks, and imagine you trim colors, lettering and stuff on there, you may be surprised.!!!
   Type at you later,
   Dan McEntee

[Glenn (Gravitywell) Reach]

Thats a fine looking little Chippy.

[Clint Ormosen]

Looking good so far. But remember, white is the heaviest paint color, so go easy.

[Brian Massey]

Thanks for the comments guys. In the back of my mind I was wondering if I just wet sanded the white, shot one more coat of white and then went to trim. I've never wet sanded a plane before; after you sand would clear bring back a gloss? In other words, sand and go right to trim colors and then a clear?

I'm doing this all in butyrate dope.

When we get some dry weather again, I'll shoot some close up pics; but don't expect to see a 20 point finish.

Thanks again for your input.

Brian

[Clint Ormosen]

Don't bother sanding the white. Just get good coverage and then go into your trim colors. Clear coat the whole thing then start the wet sanding and buffing process.

[Richard Grogan]

Dont think of gloss from the colors! Just make sure your colors are even and opaque. The gloss finish is built from your clear coat(s), not the colors. Its looking good Brian.What paint scheme have you decided on? If you are going with the original scheme, you can mask off what will be white, and gentley sand the remaining white down some where the trim colors go, save you a little weight there. Like Clint said, white is the heaviest of color dope there is. Mine is ultrakote white, with lusterkote red and blue, so I didn't have this option to mask and save weight, like with dope!

[Dan McEntee]

   Shine is a result of reflection of light. Light reflects off of flat surfaces better. If you want the good shiny finish, you need to start with the first sanding of the model before it is covered, and proper sanding every step in the finish process. Sanding should be done with the proper grit paper, and preferably with a flat block. Learn to use a light touch. Start thinking of 600 grit wet-or-dry as super coarse, and finish up with 1200 to 1800. After the trim and detail is on, the clear coats start. Really light wet sanding in between coats with 1000. After all the clear is on, then you start to make it look dull! Take the 1200 to 1800 to it with a block, and on open bay, built up wings, 000 steel wool, or some guys use 1" diameter dots of 1200 and a finger tip with light pressure. And yes, you sand until it is all dull, being careful not to remove too much material. When it all looks nice and flat, that's when you start in with the rubbing compound and elbow grease. Your first passes with the rubbing compound will start to bring out the shine. Silver polish is finer than rubbing compound and can be used as an extra step after rubbing compound. Then you protect it all with a good coat of wax, and that brings out the shine even more.  You don't just spay on a shine on top of a rough substrate. The more flat you can make it from the beginning, the easier it will be later in the process. It's a lot of work, and takes time, but is very satisfying. When it's all done correctly, you see the results as you go along.
   Good luck and have fun,
   Dan McEntee