Nils Norling used to use one of the crank-type pumps, and I remember asking about it. He said that you could pump fuel in when cranked one direction and pump some out when cranked the opposite direction. But I don't recall which crank pump he used.
PFerg told he'd used one of the DB crank pumps for his R/C endeavors, but that it worked by squeezing a hose, and the hose didn't last forever, and he kinda discouraged trying one, IIRC.
Dirty Dan gifted me one of the mayonnaise pumps, which I've used for about 20 years now. I put a new one together, using even more of the Zoot fittings from Japan (via Billings, Montana) maybe 10 years ago, and passed the one Dan gave me on to Ben Jones. Which reminds me, Ben said the spout split and asked if I could repair it...about a year ago. Personally, I think that problem is from jamming a piece of brass tubing into the hole in the spout. I ran a 5mm tap into the sawed off spout and screwed in one of those Zoot fittings with some red Loctite and no more problems.
I just called Ben Jones and he said he fixed the split spout issue himself. Yayyyy!Some guys still use the cheap veterinary syringes, including Mike and Pete Pete. I asked Pete Pete what the attraction was. He asked how I knew how much fuel I was loading aboard. So I hooked my jug/pump to his 5 oz. syringe and pumped it 5 times. It was
exactly on the 5 oz line. But I think he still uses the syringe. I don't think it's smart at all to put a fuel filter on your syringe and both draw fuel in and then push it into your tank! Don't pump fuel in through your airborne filter! I've seen both done...not a good idea.
Brett says the CA guys had contamination problems with the mustard pumps, but I leave my pump
in the jug all year, all winter, for decades, and zero problems. The pumps are all nylon except for the stainless steel spring, and I get them from TAP Plastics, where they're used for pumping epoxy (OMG!). I have a good filter on the outlet...the R/C car filters are big, very good, and fit our fuel hose sizes better than lawnmower type filters. Look at DuBro or Horizon Hobby...some are better than others. Yes, I'll clean the filter every year or two, and seldom find anything significant. I've often seen castor flakes in SIG and Fox fuel, so I wonder if that's what that is. Cold fuel will do that, but it wouldn't make me stop using either SIG or Fox fuel (yeah, I'm aware that Fox isn't making fuel anymore!). I might plan to keep the fuel warm enough to not make the castor get flaky, or I might look for a chemical solution (Nitro Benzine comes to mind, but they banned that and it's terrible on anything short of epoxy paint), perhaps a small % of Amyl Acetate would work? Less than 1%, for sure. I have a small syringe hanging on my fueler rig to withdraw excess fuel, for a fraction of an ounce. Like Brett says, fill the tank every flight and withdraw whatever excess you need to get down to your correct fuel load. More consistent, especially if you use a hard tank and do a cutoff loop.
If I was going to use a crank pump, I'd go with DuBro and get the one for a steel can. Makes a nicer package for travelling and storage. Make an aluminum bracket to clamp onto the can handle. I don't know if the DuBro pump will pump out as well as in, but can see why the Dave Brown pump would. Of course, DB doesn't sell pumps anymore, but sold off the wheels, CF and fuel pump part of the biz to Ohio R/C (I think that's it). I love DB wheels...less bounce than some others that are a wee bit cheaper. Honest!
Steve
PS: The mustard pump will create enough pressure to blow up combat bladders, so be a little patient when pumping fuel through a tiny little fuel filter. Don't ask how I learned that. Luck was on my side...fuel was on my glasses and everything else.
Topic: Fuel Pump on Bottle (Read 1549 times)