Yep, polycarbonate + alcohol is a no-no.
I usually mix only 1-2 litres at time, enough for weekends flying.
As total overkills are nice, I have these 1L Nalgene teflon bottles. I think they are the best (maybe after metal) when it comes to chemical resistance and impermeability. They are also mechanically quite bulletproof, I think they could be run over by car with no damage. L
Methanol is not the main contributor with plastic incompatibility. Nitro is the problem.
Searching for, "nitromethane chemical compatibility with plastic" gets:
https://media.suweb.site/2016/04/chemical_compatibility_for_nalgene_containers.pdf
LOL Brett! But, do you even know what Lubricin is!?!“Lubricin is a surface-active mucinous glycoprotein secreted in the synovial joint that plays an important role in cartilage integrity. In healthy joints, lubricin molecules coat the cartilage surface, providing boundary lubrication and preventing cell and protein adhesion.” - ScienceDirect
Seriously guys, there’s a lotta theory here …
For some bizarre reason, the fuel kept in the PET bottles separated and would not remix. The HDPE bottles in both 1 L and 1 gallon sizes have been fine all this time.
I know what Lubricin is. I also know that it comes in a bottle with a label on it, sealed from the factory.
Brett
Nice test, but remember that what works with one metallurgy/quality standard, is counter-productive with another. For sure the old school engines benefit from increased lubrication, especially castor-based. But with modern stuff it’s quite opposite. At least my experiments show that less oil improves every aspect of engine run; power, reactivity, running symmetry and thermal hysteresis.
Nice test, but remember that what works with one metallurgy/quality standard, is counter-productive with another.
L
Which is why I specifically advocated for Lubricin N-1 with castor oil-based fuels.
I’ll add another caveat to metallurgy: what are our expectations of an engine?
I would only add that the larger the engine, the more difference it seems to make.That's logical. Oil is needed in the cylinder to have an oil film between the piston and liner. Surface area of the cylinder increases linearly but the volume of the cylinder increases by the square of its radius. IOW, the larger the engine the more oil is provided for lubrication.
That's logical. Oil is needed in the cylinder to have an oil film between the piston and liner. Surface area of the cylinder increases linearly but the volume of the cylinder increases by the square of its radius. IOW, the larger the engine the more oil is provided for lubrication.
.... Lubricin N-1.. I mentioned it’s known for a tremendous affinity to metal surfaces. Seems to me an ideal lubricant would be a one-molecule thick layer on moving surfaces....That's reminiscent of my mention in another topic of lanolin which has essentially the exact same properties as the Lubricin with both being a product of naturally occurring components.
What exactly is the oil additive that Randy Smith sold? I have a couple of bottles of that also and I think he called it Aero-One oil?? I just never think to add it to my fuel.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
Randy's additive is proprietary; he won't reveal its formulation. But many here swear by it.
David uses it. I could never tell any difference with or without.
Brett
If you can't see a difference, try a little less in the mix. Maybe it's a homeopathic product..?
Wouldn't you know it, that I had a Morgan Fuels, Omega 25% plastic jug split and leak in an air conditioned closet? Luckily, I need some fuel and caught it before it leaked a lot. Where the seam is on the handle it split. I have about 12 gallons in there. I checked the other 11 and they are fine. It wasn't more than a few months ago, that the leaking one was fine. I had an empty 1 gallon lacquer thinner can to put the leaked fuel in. Those jugs are hazardous for sure.
I think problems with jugs can be manufacturing defects, but also in how they are handled along the way. I've watch people toss jugs, drop them and whole cases onto hard pavement. Most wouldn't treat a metal can of anything that way. Truck drivers delivering cases just don't care one way or the other as long as it isn't leaking in his truck or when he delivers the case or cases.
I have had metal cans from unopened cardboard cases that show indications of being dropped to the point that one side of the can was a half and inch shorter than the other.
Brett
I have had metal cans from unopened cardboard cases that show indications of being dropped to the point that one side of the can was a half and inch shorter than the other.Coming from a long time in "Big Box" retail stores I will say most of that sort of damage comes from stacking pallets three or four high in the 18 wheel freight boxes for shipment. Then the forklift operators jamming pallets in or running into them while unloading. There is a pretty high loss rate for things like this. (Both in product and freight handlers)
Brett
I think problems with jugs can be manufacturing defects, but also in how they are handled along the way. I've watch people toss jugs, drop them and whole cases onto hard pavement. Most wouldn't treat a metal can of anything that way. Truck drivers delivering cases just don't care one way or the other as long as it isn't leaking in his truck or when he delivers the case or cases. I think I have had one just leak on me in my history, at least that's all I can remember. It was still in it's 4 jugs cardboard case and that absorbed the oil as the methanol evaporated and surprisingly left very little mess on my basement floor! I keep anything that is not being used in the cardboard cases for that reason.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
I have had metal cans from unopened cardboard cases that show indications of being dropped to the point that one side of the can was a half and inch shorter than the other.
Brett
Like this?
Measures out to 3/8" of smash.
Never has leaked a drop of SIG Thinner