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Author Topic: Fuel Cap left off for about 3 hours  (Read 4018 times)

Offline Joe Ed Pederson

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Fuel Cap left off for about 3 hours
« on: October 13, 2024, 02:21:40 PM »
I had a Senior moment at the St. Louis Ringmaster Fly-a-thon.  I left the cap off of a gallon jug of Sig Champion 10/20 for about three hours.  There was a bout a quart of fuel left in the gallon jug.  I know that an uncapped jug of fuel is prone to absorbing moisture out of the air.

So,
1) Can you see that the fuel has absorbed water?  Is there a way to tell if the fuel absorbed water that is easy to perform?

2)  Can fuel that has absorbed water damage an engine?

3)  Should I just throw that quart of fuel away?


Thanks,
Joe  Ed Pederson

Online Brett Buck

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Re: Fuel Cap left off for about 3 hours
« Reply #1 on: October 13, 2024, 02:22:56 PM »

3)  Should I just throw that quart of fuel away?

   Probably no issue. Try it and see.

     Brett

Offline john e. holliday

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Re: Fuel Cap left off for about 3 hours
« Reply #2 on: October 13, 2024, 03:05:31 PM »
As stated, should be no problem.   I've seen that happen at contests before. D>K
John E. "DOC" Holliday
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Offline Motorman

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Re: Fuel Cap left off for about 3 hours
« Reply #3 on: October 13, 2024, 03:30:59 PM »
If the fuel absorbs too much water it will turn white. Even then it will still work ok.


MM :)
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Offline Dan Berry

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Re: Fuel Cap left off for about 3 hours
« Reply #4 on: October 13, 2024, 04:07:10 PM »
Fuel absorbing water and going bad is a myth.  Loe Wagner ran a test and wrote about it in his M.A. column.
He ran an engine on the stand - a Johnson if I recall correctly. Checked it with a tach. He then filled the tank with fuel t5he had added 10% water to.
Engine started with no issues and the tach showed increased rpm.

A cubic foot of air can hold about 7 grams of water.  Water from the air in your fuel is of no concern.
What is a concern is the evaporation of alcohol and nitromethane while the oil doesn't evaporate. Then you have fuel with too much oil and you certainly won't like the way it runs.

Use the fuel. 3 hours isn't a long time compared to the 24 hours I left open this Spring.

I was involved in a similar on0line discussion a while back. One said that fuel absorbs moisture through the plastic jug.
I had to clean the monitor ( iwas drinking coffee).

Online Brett Buck

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Re: Fuel Cap left off for about 3 hours
« Reply #5 on: October 13, 2024, 04:30:28 PM »
Fuel absorbing water and going bad is a myth.  Loe Wagner ran a test and wrote about it in his M.A. column.
He ran an engine on the stand - a Johnson if I recall correctly. Checked it with a tach. He then filled the tank with fuel t5he had added 10% water to.
Engine started with no issues and the tach showed increased rpm.

   Uh, yeah. No offense to Joe, but taching an engine on a test stand is not much of a test, and tells you nearly nothing about how it would work in the air. Additionally, I think there might be a big difference between a Johnson/McCoy/Fox and a current ABC or AAC engine, and the standards for run quality we expect. 

     This test was pretty notorious at the time (along with some of the "facts" shoveled to him from Tom Dixon - who caused to be written "tuned pipes have been tried in stunt but have shown no advantage" - when Paul Walker was winning 5 NATs in a row and almost every competitor used them...) and several people tried the same test and actually flew the airplanes - which varied from "sort of ratty" to catastrophic.

    It's pretty hard to get too much water just from the air sitting open for a few hours. It might lose some nitro and methanol from evaporation, but not very much.

    It is not at all hard to get condensation from moving the fuel in and out of the far and into the AC, or letting it temperature cycle in the back of the car while it "breaths". Fuel should be stored in air-tight containers for the most part, if it doesn't "breathe" as the temperature changes, it will last nearly forever. Either hard-cap it, or use the DuBro Kwik-fill fuel cap hardware:

"https://www.amainhobbies.com/dubro-kwik-fill-fuel-can-fitting-dub807/p29357?msclkid=0712cef796991c79a056a9fbdf95e434&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=AH%20-%20Shopping%20PLA%20-%20All%20Products%20-%20(0-25)%20-%20Non-Branded%20-%20TROAS%20-%20MM&utm_term=4584757337522240&utm_content=dubro

    so it seals against air movement. I use the DuBro fittings - the one listed, not the older copper tube version, and I leave my fuel in the back of my black mini-van with the fitting on it, no problem, it seals enough to handle going from 140 degrees in the sun to 45 degrees at night with no issues.

    Brett

Offline Dan Berry

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Re: Fuel Cap left off for about 3 hours
« Reply #6 on: October 13, 2024, 04:44:00 PM »
   Uh, yeah. No offense to Joe, but taching an engine on a test stand is not much of a test, and tells you nearly nothing about how it would work in the air. Additionally, I think there might be a big difference between a Johnson/McCoy/Fox and a current ABC or AAC engine, and the standards for run quality we expect. 

   

No one, including Joe, was advocating adding water to our fuel.
The point is that 10% didn't hurt anything and absorption from air contact isn't gonna be anywhere the same as adding 10% . Which would be an economical boost.

Online Dan McEntee

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Re: Fuel Cap left off for about 3 hours
« Reply #7 on: October 13, 2024, 05:08:21 PM »
   I'll agree with trying it for a quick tank full. If there are any issues, don't pitch it. I got through the critical fuel shortage during the planedemic by taking my "scrap fuel" and slowly adding it to jugs of known good fuel. This included a jug of fuel that would not run in engines that I had for a long time. Since you had about a quart left, add half of that to the next good jug you open and proves to run well. Then repeat with the balance when opportunity presents itself. this is just a precautionary measure. I usually do not run a gallon all the way to the bottom of a jug anyway as a habit. When it gets to that last inch or so at the bottom, I open a new one and when there is room in the new jug for the leftovers in the last jug, I add it to the new one. With the cost of fuel these days and what i have to go through to get it, I don't waste a drop if I can avoid it!!
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Online Brett Buck

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Re: Fuel Cap left off for about 3 hours
« Reply #8 on: October 13, 2024, 05:31:24 PM »
No one, including Joe, was advocating adding water to our fuel.
The point is that 10% didn't hurt anything and absorption from air contact isn't gonna be anywhere the same as adding 10% . Which would be an economical boost.

       I agree that you will have trouble getting 10% water just from leaving the jug open, and Joe Ed's oversight is not likely to have any detectable effects. Many people have done very similar things in the past with no ill effects.

    But I absolutely positively guarantee you that if you try running 10% water in the average stunt engine - in flight - you are very likely to have problems. People have tried Joe's test in flight, it did cause problem ranging from ratty running, shutting off "like a switch" (usually on inside corners), and at least one person ended up crashing the airplane in their experiment.

    Brett

Online Dan McEntee

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Re: Fuel Cap left off for about 3 hours
« Reply #9 on: October 13, 2024, 06:22:55 PM »
       I agree that you will have trouble getting 10% water just from leaving the jug open, and Joe Ed's oversight is not likely to have any detectable effects. Many people have done very similar things in the past with no ill effects.

    But I absolutely positively guarantee you that if you try running 10% water in the average stunt engine - in flight - you are very likely to have problems. People have tried Joe's test in flight, it did cause problem ranging from ratty running, shutting off "like a switch" (usually on inside corners), and at least one person ended up crashing the airplane in their experiment.

    Brett


    This is a good point to ask the question, what DOSE cause a jug of fuel to go bad???  I have been flying C/L stunt regularly since 1986 or so, and flew smaller stuff as a kid. I'm 69 years old and that gets close to 60 years of activity and experience. Since 1986 the volume of fuel in creased dramatically !! In all that time, I have only had one jug of fuel that "went bad" on me. it was the jug I mentioned in my previous post. half way through the jug at a flying session at Buder park, my turn comes up for a flight and the engine would not start. Didn't even want to pop and this was after three or four flights previously that day. tried all the usual stuff and a fresh jug of fuel solved the problem even with running the original plug. I eventually used up the suspect fuel during the planedemic by adding it a little at a time to known good fuel.
 
    Who knows how much fuel I have burned up to that point and since?/ Probably not as much as some but maybe more than most. ( i just like to fly!!)  I have had fuel that I think was mixed incorrectly but it ran. I have had fuel with too much synthetic (Klotz) added but it ran, but not the best. It didn't "go bad", it was a group of 3 or 4 gallons I got from a guys estate that was Fox fuel mixed the same as SIG 10%N 20% total oil Champion. I didn't run it it at that time but it got gradually mixed in with known good fuel also until it was gone. I have some Cox fuel I emptied out from old cans that looks like weak coffee!! But son of a gun it RUNS when I tested it!!! I have no idea how many gallons of fuel I have consumed. Hundreds? Thousands? Over 40 years since I started flying C/L exclusively.

     That one half jug of fuel really mystifies me. I have been told of similar experience by others and read about it also. Before I mixed it into good fuel, I did try to run it in a sport plane engine just to make sure, and still would not light off. Moisture can't be the only cause. The mystery fuel still looked normal when I poured the last of it into the good jug. Other wise, I store fuel i am currently using in my garage in a relatively cool, dark space. Extra fuel is stored in my basement in the cases I bought it in. i always (try) to put the cap back on the jug right away and drawing fuel, and all the other precautions. If I'm that lucky, why can't I win the lottery!!

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Offline Brian Hampton

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Re: Fuel Cap left off for about 3 hours
« Reply #10 on: October 13, 2024, 07:06:34 PM »
Many years ago I did my own experiments with water in fuel starting with 1% then flying the model (RC) with no problem. One flick start and flew normally. Bumped up water to 2%, no problem so went to 3%, no problem. Bumped up to 4% and engine would only start from a prime of fresh fuel then instantly stop. I'd been adding the water into a plastic squeeze bottle to refill the tank each time and that's when I noticed that all the oil had settled to the bottom of the bottle. That's why the engine wouldn't start because the same thing had happened in the model's tank. Oil had settled out and covered the clunk and engines generally won't run on 100% oil :).

Back at home I got a bit more scientific and started off with a 100ml syringe of fresh fuel and incrementally added oil 1ml at a time, shaking the syringe each time to mix the water thoroughly. Sure enough, at 4% the oil separated out and fell to the bottom of the syringe. This is when things got me curious so, without going into details, I wanted to find out if temperature affected oil % and separation. It does! The colder the fuel the less oil it will tolerate, conversely the warmer the more oil. Results were that cooled to -10C then only 0.25%was tolerable and warmed to 39C allowed 2.5%. Over 10 seperate readings in ~5C increments showed a virtually straight line graph from cold to hot. When I say oil fell to the bottom I mean that when shaken the mixture looks cloudy but over a minute or so you see the oil beginning to collect at the bottom.

If you want to read the full report on my experiment then go to https://holdfastmac.asn.au/technical-articles/effects-of-water-in-fuel/ where I wrote it up for our club's newsletter.

Online Brett Buck

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Re: Fuel Cap left off for about 3 hours
« Reply #11 on: October 13, 2024, 09:11:54 PM »

    This is a good point to ask the question, what DOSE cause a jug of fuel to go bad???  I have been flying C/L stunt regularly since 1986 or so, and flew smaller stuff as a kid. I'm 69 years old and that gets close to 60 years of activity and experience. Since 1986 the volume of fuel in creased dramatically !! In all that time, I have only had one jug of fuel that "went bad" on me. it was the jug I mentioned in my previous post. half way through the jug at a flying session at Buder park, my turn comes up for a flight and the engine would not start. Didn't even want to pop and this was after three or four flights previously that day. tried all the usual stuff and a fresh jug of fuel solved the problem even with running the original plug. I eventually used up the suspect fuel during the planedemic by adding it a little at a time to known good fuel.

   I don't know, for the most part. What I have seen of fuel issues are usually either wrong mixes for the engine, or some sort of contamination. In all cases I know about, the contamination was some sort of chemical that shouldn't have been there. I know of 3 really clear examples over the last 50ish years I have been doing this, and I only know for sure what the offending contaminant actually was.

    Case 1 - 1995 Tri-Cities NATs. Everyone was using SIG fuel. For whatever reason, there were a bunch of people with engine issues, some to the point it damaged the engine, but lot of cases of strange runs, flameouts, and just "odd-sounding" exhaust notes. This included the first and only PA engine that appeared to eat itself up, destroying the connecting rod on David's shiny new PA40. We started trying to figure it out, and someone (maybe Mike Pratt) to some of the offending fuel back to SIG, but I never heard what if any problem they found. We did notice that there were clear globs of something floating around in it, it looked like heavy silicone oil, but could have been anything, we didn't test it. When we got back, we verified it woudn't run here, either, and gave our remaining stocks to some RC guys, it didn't run right for them, either, and I could recognize the same odd sound from 200 yards away. The said it was "too much oil". I never heard for sure what the actual cause was, but it somehow got fixed and we subsequently used SIG for a long time until we discovered the "tater" problem with PA61s and up, and switched to Powermaster.

    Case 2 - shortly after the 95 NATS, we started looking for alternate fuel. Paul was using Red Max, and it was fine, and I got a few cases with no issues. Then, suddenly, I went to order it and got the "all castor is bad" story from the Red Max people. Since we never knew what caused SIG's issue, it might have been plausible. I got some of their fuel with the usual amount of castor, and sure enough, little white flakes precipitated out of it in a few weeks. I filtered it all out, few weeks later, same thing again. Also, I started having engine run issues with my PA40, with it randomly quitting on the test stand like you flipped a switch, perfect and then nothing. Start it right back up, run for  while, same thing again 30 seconds later. Tried to fly it anyway, and first inside loop, ratty, second, super-ratty, third, stopped dead. In that case I grabbed a sample of the fuel and took it to the standards lab of "a large aerospace organization" and had it analyzed. Normal fuel components + abnormal amounts of Xylene. I did some research and found that Xylene is used to rinse castor beans to get the last little bit of oil out of the crushed remains. The oil is then heated to drive off the Xylene. I got some Xylene, put it in some SIG castor oil ,looked like a snowstorm. Regular SIG castor, no problems and no flakes, regular Powermaster castor, no problems and no flakes.

Red Max apparently got a bad batch of castor oil, probably because it was cheap "extracted" type, and instead of trying to diagnose and correct the issue, they saw an opportunity to market their super-duper secret oil for go-karts and were telling everyone that ALL castor was bad and the good kind was no longer available. This was a demonstrable lie, I told their "oil expert" exactly what the offending component was, they continued to lie about it. There are plenty of other places to get fuel (like JBK and Doug Taffinder, SIG, Powermaster, Byron) so I moved on.

     So I started experimenting with various fuel sources, and additives. After an incredible amount of experimentation, I found that my flameout problem was completely solved by running Byron fuel, of all things. I cannot tell you how far down the list this was, I even tried Omega and Cool Power before I got down to Byron. Perfectly smooth, with a remarkably steady exhaust note. At the same time, other people had similar issues, and every time we tried Byron fuel, it went away. I ran several NATs with Byron in my 40VF, poured into a SIG jug to hold down the jokes.

   During all this, I had a good flight until the middle of the 4-leaf, flamed out again, crashed my 95 NATS airplane a few days before we were going to leave for the 96 NATs.

  Ultimately, there were three unrelated things going on - the bad SIG fuel batch, completely independently, my second PA40 had some still-undiagnosed flameout issue that I never was able to diagnose despite extensive experimentation, and apparently still did it when Randy got it back, and, on top of it, the "all castor is bad" lie from Red Max. We of course thought it was all part of a single issue, but in this case, it wasn't. Using different engines (40VF vice PA40), reputable fuel manufacturers (SIG and Taff), no more problems (until we got to the PA61 and the tater issue).

  Case #3 Shortly before the 2008(?) WC, Paul Ferrell was test-flying his brand-new Infinity with a RO-Jett 61 BSE "Brett" version set up exactly like mine. He started having the "ratty inside loops" issue similar to but not as bad a my problems in late 95 early 96 PA40 issues, and it was clearly degenerating on every flight.  After trying a few things, we checked the Powermaster batch number, and it was a new batch that none of us had tried. I got some of my fuel, we ran it on the ground, and it started out ratty, and slowly got better through the tank. Something was obviously getting deposited in the engine with his fuel, and running my fuel was removing it. We switched plugs, that greatly improved it but it still ran "odd" for a few more tanks, but getting progressively better. Eventually, it sounded about right and he flew it with my fuel, no problems, we checked the fuel batch number to see what Powermaster had shipped to whereever the WC was (France, maybe?), it was a different batch, and he flew finished second in junior, and had no more issues.

    Note that the "slowly changing" with run time is also what happens when you change the oil content of the fuel, it takes maybe 5-6 flight for it to settle down after an oil type or quantity change. So I figure there was something odd with the oil. I posted the batch number on SSW, and everybody who had that batch also reported various odd issues with it. I have no idea what the actual problem might have been and we didn't try to hard to track it down. The fuel guy at Texas Allied Chemicals was usually pretty helpful and knowledgeable about it, but he didn't know of any intentional difference between this batch and any other.

I distinguish "bad" fuel from "wrong" fuel. I can go get some Powermaster GMA, or any other home-job 10/22 50-50 fuel, and my engine will run ratty on inside loops very reliably, switch back to 10/17 75-25, back to normal, I can add up to at least 5% KL-198 and it is still OK (although it runs much differently).

     That's a super-detailed way of saying "I don't know", it's rare enough that it's sort of a series of random failures/problems that don't have a common cause. Of course "bad fuel" problems are swamped as far as engine problems go by the endless string of self-induced engine issues that you see here incessantly (grind/drill/port/head-gasket/needlessly fiddle) and seem to be completely intractable and insoluble.

      Brett

     

Online Dan McEntee

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Re: Fuel Cap left off for about 3 hours
« Reply #12 on: October 14, 2024, 09:22:20 AM »
  I remember reading about the Tri-Cities issues, most likely in Stunt News. It was probably about that same time that we got a shipment of fuel in from Fox at the hobby shop I worked part time at. it had the little white balls, or flakes, floating in it. Fox sent us some new jugs, and i had the job of filtering the fuel into the new jugs. I don't recall any further problems, and I ran a lot of that fuel at that time. Brian Hampton's experiment is interesting, and can point to contamination as a main cause I guess. Or bad ingredients? Most likely problems with oil? I would figure that if the methanol used had any contamination, you might see it in the fuel. Fuel companies buying it in bulk would be getting good ingredients but I guess anything is possible and some sort of mix up or contamination could occur when bulk purchases are made.

   I agree with the separation of term "bad" fuel from "wrong" fuel. With the loss of several of the legacy fuel makers, that would make sorting out productions issues easier I think. But I keep coming back to that one half jug I had go bad. I was getting normal runs up to the point it wouldn't start. It was either a jug of that Fox fuel I mentioned, or maybe SIG all castor. I've slept too many times since then.  I haven't heard of anyone having bad fuel in recent history. I sometimes run Omega and spike it's oil content up to where I like it, and one thing I always watch for when doing that is , does the stuff added mix in and stay mixed?? The omega does run OK but not as good when compared to SIG fuel I have left or the SIG Champion type mix I am making for myself now. Just down on power a bit, needs the needle run in a little more, depending on the engine.

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Online Dave_Trible

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Re: Fuel Cap left off for about 3 hours
« Reply #13 on: October 14, 2024, 09:38:44 AM »
A little bit of my fuel story....
As far as leaving the can open for a while- i'd generally agree it's probably ok.   Maybe evapped off a little nitro but no big deal.   To help with this type thing I make myself a field fuel can from an old gallon acetone can.   I solder in two 1/8" copper tubes at the top.  One is a short stub just getting inside and the other goes full depth to the bottom.  The two are about 3/4" apart.  I put a short piece of fuel line outside across the two tubes.   When it's time to draw fuel I never take the lid off,  I just pull fuel from the full depth tube and put the fuel line back on.   Next to nothing can get in the fuel.  I only open the can to refill it.  I did this in answer to a recurring problem I would have with jugs of fuel.  ( I too used and loved Byrons fuel for a decade-excellent stuff)   I found that the last three or four tankfuls of fuel in a gallon jug would give me strange runs sometimes and seemed to promote tators on plugs.   I could only assume it was an accumulation of moisture as the cap was taken on and off-even more so in humid weather.   I'd open a new jug and the problems went away.   The can-traption I described above solved it.    Maybe it was something else,   don't know,  doesn't matter to me now.
What Brett wrote above sort of stirred a sore spot with me I'll now explain.   At this past Nats I suddenly struggled to get engine starts on first-flip engines and as a result only got two official 'counter' flights in all week.   I'd pull the ship off the line into the grass and get a perfect start.  I finally changed tanks AFTER the Nats and got a perfect run for my Worlds judges warm up flight.  This happened with two different engines.  SO after I got home I wondered (after reading all these stories about castor carboning in engines-even though I use a 50-50 caster/technoplate mix) I thought maybe if I mixes some all synthetic fuel and ran just one run on the test stand maybe it would clean the engines out and then I go back to my normal fuel.
So I did just that with these two RO Jett .76s .  A while back I had been unhappy with the pink stains the Technoplate oils leaving on my white bottom airplanes.   So I ordered a whole case of four gallons of the clear synthetic oil 62RM from Red Max,  which they used in their fuel and said that they themselves manufactured.  I think it had to be a clone of Ucon 62.  So engine 1.   My old one with the silver head,  veteran of at least one Top 20 and a team trials-rebuilt by Dub twice of a decade.   It started up right away pretty lean.   I remembered when I used this oil in a 50/50 mix before it required the needle to be open quite a bit I guessed from being thicker.   By the time I got behind the test stand,  opened the needle and pulled the battery the engine just flamed out.   I was NEVER able to get it to restart since.  Engine 2.   My newest one built in 2022.    I was getting prepared to run on the stand when my girlfriend started peppering me with text messages.   When that let up I put the battery on and gave the prop a backflip.   The engine started, the prop instantly flew off (i'd forgot to tighten the prop) but the engine kept running in a nice sounding four cycle but with out any prop.  The only thing I could think of was to tip the stand over into the dirt and stop the engine that way.   After it cooled down I put the prop on and was able to get a restart though difficult.   I wanted to see if this engine was still usable so I put it in an airplane to test.   It started normally and didn't sound too bad.  When I got to the handle i could feel a LOT of strumming vibration through the lines.  I flew it about seven or eight grinding laps and the engine quit.  Bearings totally shot.   The first engine locked up solid.   NEVER talk to me again about running all synthetic fuel!  Absolutely no lubricating value.  It is strictly a detergent.   I have $1000 worth of junk engines to prove it!   The newer one I'll have Dub rebuild.  The other is a souvenir.  The clear oil will be used as weed killer.

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Offline GERALD WIMMER

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Re: Fuel Cap left off for about 3 hours
« Reply #14 on: October 14, 2024, 04:45:26 PM »
Hello
Glow fuel it is agreed will probably be fine with the cap off for 3hours but I would not try that with Diesel fuel!
As a young lad I brought a litre of diesel in a plastic bottle from our club fuel mixer person and within a month I had only 2/3rd left in the bottle after not using any and had to add back the lost 1/3 of ether and put it in a glass bottle.
When I had opportunity many years ago to get some cheap methanol I got 3 x 20 litres tins of methanol and stored them under my parents damp house , got thought the first 20 litres okay and the second 20litres stated giving dodgy runs flaming out when you disconnected the glow plug and the last 20 litres was milky on top and rust brown at the bottom as the tin had started corroding inside and was leaking out gradually which gave me 40 litres of waste methanol and not great as a weed killer.

Regards Gerald
PS 20 litres is 5.3 gallons

Offline Brian Hampton

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Re: Fuel Cap left off for about 3 hours
« Reply #15 on: October 14, 2024, 07:01:42 PM »
NEVER talk to me again about running all synthetic fuel!
Having only ever used all castor for over 40 years I was a bit concerted when I bought a Stalker 61. The instructions stated to only use 16% synthetic and strictly no castor. However I've never been able to fully trust any synthetic that was originally designed for use in cooling power line transformers or home refrigerators so what to do? As a retired aircraft engine fitter on military aircraft I decided to try gas turbine oil which is actually an EP gear oil (in my case, Mobil Jet Oil II). It mixed perfectly with methanol and worked a treat in the Stalker. The downside is that it's rather expensive compared to castor and has a rather dark dye which could stain some finishes. The upside is that (like castor) it remains on all surfaces but doesn't oxidise (go gummy) like castor does so it's an excellent preservative for long term storage. A better choice is Eastman (BP) 2380 turbine oil which doesn't have the Mobil dye.

Online qaz049

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Re: Fuel Cap left off for about 3 hours
« Reply #16 on: October 14, 2024, 07:36:35 PM »
Hello
Glow fuel it is agreed will probably be fine with the cap off for 3hours but I would not try that with Diesel fuel!
As a young lad I brought a litre of diesel in a plastic bottle from our club fuel mixer person and within a month I had only 2/3rd left in the bottle after not using any and had to add back the lost 1/3 of ether and put it in a glass bottle.
When I had opportunity many years ago to get some cheap methanol I got 3 x 20 litres tins of methanol and stored them under my parents damp house , got thought the first 20 litres okay and the second 20litres stated giving dodgy runs flaming out when you disconnected the glow plug and the last 20 litres was milky on top and rust brown at the bottom as the tin had started corroding inside and was leaking out gradually which gave me 40 litres of waste methanol and not great as a weed killer.

Regards Gerald
PS 20 litres is 5.3 gallons


I live on the central New South Wales coast. Summer Temperatures can be excessive.  One summer I mixed up a litre of diesel fuel at the flying field using Di-Ethyl Ether (aka DEE) from a dark brown chemical storage bottle. After mixing I placed all the bottles in the deep shade under a table used by the club R/C flyers. I came back to it hours later to find that the sun had moved around and the Ether was now in the direct sunshine. Took the lid off and it boiled out (BP= 34.6 degrees C) over the rim. You could actually see the stream. I guess that it lost about 25% of the total. Recapped the bottle and returned it to the shade. It proved to be ok in the long term.

Another time a bunch of us bought a 20 Litre tin of DEE. After we all got a share there was 4 Litre left. My mate Dave put it in a cheap but new tin plated lawn mower fuel container and placed it under the sink in his shed. Twenty years later he passed away and I inherited his stash. There was never any ether odour around that end of the shed, and when I unsealed the tin there was still vapour pressure. I went on to use the whole four Litres with perfect satisfaction.

The moral of the story is that even a extremely volatile fuel containing DEE can be successfully stored for a long time with minimum precautions.

Online Brett Buck

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Re: Fuel Cap left off for about 3 hours
« Reply #17 on: October 15, 2024, 10:28:44 AM »
What Brett wrote above sort of stirred a sore spot with me I'll now explain.   At this past Nats I suddenly struggled to get engine starts on first-flip engines and as a result only got two official 'counter' flights in all week.   I'd pull the ship off the line into the grass and get a perfect start.  I finally changed tanks AFTER the Nats and got a perfect run for my Worlds judges warm up flight.  This happened with two different engines.  SO after I got home I wondered (after reading all these stories about castor carboning in engines-even though I use a 50-50 caster/technoplate mix) I thought maybe if I mixes some all synthetic fuel and ran just one run on the test stand maybe it would clean the engines out and then I go back to my normal fuel.

So I did just that with these two RO Jett .76s .  A while back I had been unhappy with the pink stains the Technoplate oils leaving on my white bottom airplanes.   So I ordered a whole case of four gallons of the clear synthetic oil 62RM from Red Max,  which they used in their fuel and said that they themselves manufactured.  I think it had to be a clone of Ucon 62.  So engine 1.   My old one with the silver head,  veteran of at least one Top 20 and a team trials-rebuilt by Dub twice of a decade.   It started up right away pretty lean.   I remembered when I used this oil in a 50/50 mix before it required the needle to be open quite a bit I guessed from being thicker.   By the time I got behind the test stand,  opened the needle and pulled the battery the engine just flamed out.   I was NEVER able to get it to restart since.  Engine 2.   My newest one built in 2022.    I was getting prepared to run on the stand when my girlfriend started peppering me with text messages.   When that let up I put the battery on and gave the prop a backflip.   The engine started, the prop instantly flew off (i'd forgot to tighten the prop) but the engine kept running in a nice sounding four cycle but with out any prop.

  The only thing I could think of was to tip the stand over into the dirt and stop the engine that way.   After it cooled down I put the prop on and was able to get a restart though difficult.   I wanted to see if this engine was still usable so I put it in an airplane to test.   It started normally and didn't sound too bad.  When I got to the handle i could feel a LOT of strumming vibration through the lines.  I flew it about seven or eight grinding laps and the engine quit.  Bearings totally shot.   The first engine locked up solid.   NEVER talk to me again about running all synthetic fuel!  Absolutely no lubricating value.  It is strictly a detergent.   I have $1000 worth of junk engines to prove it!   The newer one I'll have Dub rebuild.  The other is a souvenir.  The clear oil will be used as weed killer.

    I have been trying to warn people about Red Max for several decades now, they know about go-karts, not about stunt engines. I would not trust a word they said about anything, having been lied to both in correspondence and over the phone multiple times. They are in business to sell their double-secret "super oil".

  I am sorry your engines got damaged, but I think you are jumping to an unwarranted conclusion.  This is not a problem with synthetic fuel per se, it is a problem with Red Max super=-oil. Many people have run straight synthetic fuel - including me - with no unusual problems. My synthetic fuel was either SIG Syn-power, or various straight synthetic fuels I had made for me. At no time did I have any indication of inordinate wear, damage, or run issues with it - and ABC/ABN or AAC stunt engines, including RO-Jett 61s, and at one point that's all I ran for several hundred flights.

   As far as lubrication qualities go, most of the synthetic I have used (Klotz KL series) has better properties *as a lubricant" in most regards than castor oil and also does not leave gummy residue that slowly degrades the piston/cylinder fits.   Synthetic, at least the types we use, also has lower viscosity at the temperature we run it through the plumbing, which is in some cases *critical to the run quality*. I think the viscosity for the oil we use does not follow the same curve as castor and catches up at higher temperatures (castor thins out more with temperature).

      Brett

Online Dan McEntee

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Re: Fuel Cap left off for about 3 hours
« Reply #18 on: October 15, 2024, 10:32:30 AM »
   I just read and posted to a thread on the forum about castor oil and concerns about it mixing and , importantly, staying mixed. It reminded me of when alcohol was added to our gasoline the first time back in the 70's and 80's on a limited basis. Oils used for premix fuel for motorcycles, outboard engines for boats, snowmobiles and such often carried some small picture symbols for what they would recommend their oil for. When used for model airplanes, the symbol was a small airplane with a big cylinder sticking out the nose. I wasn't mixing model fuel back then but did see examples of where other guys had trouble with their premix when they did not know the gas station had "gasahol" in their tanks. You could shake a gas can until kingdom come but it would separate after a while. I got moved up to a first place finish once when the guy ahead of me at a race had his fuel sample fail tech inspection because of this. He was genuinely pissed when he was DQed but I tried to console him by telling him what happened, and that he was lucky he didn't stick an engine!! It may have been a similar issue with some model fuel vendors if they got ingredients in bulk that were not what they were supposed to be. these days, I think all automotive additive products are made with blending with alcohol in mind. After reading all of this thread and the castor oil thread, I think oil may be the common denominator in "bad" fuel. A local guy has a model with one of the Russian engines in it, and he mixed up some fuel for it from what he had on hand and I have noticed that when he first gets to the field, you could see something settled at the bottom of the jug. Shake it and it mixed again, and seemed OK, but settling later is a deal breaker for me. So far other than some problems setting the needle, nothing bad has happened but it may explain his trouble getting a consistent needle setting.

   In the world of off road motorcycle racing, there is a story about a controversy at the 1973 ISDT Six Days event held in the USA for the first time in Dalton, Massachusetts. At the end  of the first day of competition, the East German team had suffered almost a complete failure of all their team motorcycles and they withdrew from the event in great anger!! It was said that they were making the accusation that their oil was sabotaged. I think Castrol was a sponsor of the event and provided premix oil for any team that required it. No other team had any issues. Rumors through the years have circulated that they were given a barrel of fork oil instead of two stroke premix oil, and that the language barrier did not prevent them from using it. I often wonder who would use a whole barrel of fork oil, even for a team of 6 to 8 motorcycles!! With 4 inch travel, they just didn't use more than a few ounces!! And "official" explanation has surfaced as time has passed that they were give a barrel of outboard engine premix fuel!! That still doesn't make much sense, since a two stroke is a two stroke!! some guys I know involved at that time, said they often had to use outboard motor oil, and the worst side effect was more smoke.  It's amazing that this far down the line since the incident, some people have just not let go of the incident and still harbor resentment over it!! If you remember Dave DesPain from the old "Speedvision" cable TV channel, he was there as a fledgling journalist and talked about it on his show "Wind Tunnel" one night I guess the threat of controversy is just the nature of any international competition!!
  Type at you later,
   Dan McEntee
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Online Dan McEntee

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Re: Fuel Cap left off for about 3 hours
« Reply #19 on: October 15, 2024, 10:53:08 AM »
    I have been trying to warn people about Red Max for several decades now, they know about go-karts, not about stunt engines. I would not trust a word they said about anything, having been lied to both in correspondence and over the phone multiple times. They are in business to sell their double-secret "super oil".

  I am sorry your engines got damaged, but I think you are jumping to an unwarranted conclusion.  This is not a problem with synthetic fuel per se, it is a problem with Red Max super=-oil. Many people have run straight synthetic fuel - including me - with no unusual problems. My synthetic fuel was either SIG Syn-power, or various straight synthetic fuels I had made for me. At no time did I have any indication of inordinate wear, damage, or run issues with it - and ABC/ABN or AAC stunt engines, including RO-Jett 61s, and at one point that's all I ran for several hundred flights.

   As far as lubrication qualities go, most of the synthetic I have used (Klotz KL series) has better properties *as a lubricant" in most regards than castor oil and also does not leave gummy residue that slowly degrades the piston/cylinder fits.   Synthetic, at least the types we use, also has lower viscosity at the temperature we run it through the plumbing, which is in some cases *critical to the run quality*. I think the viscosity for the oil we use does not follow the same curve as castor and catches up at higher temperatures (castor thins out more with temperature).

      Brett


     More memory jolts!! I remember when Red Max first became available and that was a long time ago. Were were carrying K&B and Fox fuel at the hobby shop for the most part at that time ( late 80s to early 90's) and a competing shop was starting to carry Red Max at a cheaper price. Naturally, many went that route for fuel at first. We began to hear stories of guys having engine problems, some of them our customers who were buying Red Max but did not offer up that information. The folks at K&B warned us that they thought the issue was the cheaper nitro that RedMax was supposed to be using. It was imported from China after a shortage had occurred when a main supplier had a big fire and explosion at their main plant. It was suggested that this nitro was highly acidic and since red Max fuel did not contain any castor oil, it was very detrimental to bearings. We did a simple test by putting two baby food jars of fuel on the counter, one with K&B and the other with Red Max. We dropped a short length of brass tubing into the jars and watched them. In a matter of a day or so, the Red Max sample had turned the tube black. It took weeks for the K&B tube to change color at all. We had customers challenge us that we did something to the Red Max sample and we said "Prove it!!" We challenged them to bring in their own sample of fuel and tubing, but no one ever did. At that time I never considered it might be oil as part of the problem. In my kart racing days, I always used Klotz and don't remember seeing Red Max products. Klotz had the little airplane symbol on the can!! If you think about it, it was also about that time that after run oil hit the market in a big way!! We started to stock it at the shop then also. Interesting history of hobby.
    Type at you later,
    Dan McEntee
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Offline Matt Colan

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Re: Fuel Cap left off for about 3 hours
« Reply #20 on: October 15, 2024, 11:48:55 AM »
    I have been trying to warn people about Red Max for several decades now, they know about go-karts, not about stunt engines. I would not trust a word they said about anything, having been lied to both in correspondence and over the phone multiple times. They are in business to sell their double-secret "super oil".

  I am sorry your engines got damaged, but I think you are jumping to an unwarranted conclusion.  This is not a problem with synthetic fuel per se, it is a problem with Red Max super=-oil. Many people have run straight synthetic fuel - including me - with no unusual problems. My synthetic fuel was either SIG Syn-power, or various straight synthetic fuels I had made for me. At no time did I have any indication of inordinate wear, damage, or run issues with it - and ABC/ABN or AAC stunt engines, including RO-Jett 61s, and at one point that's all I ran for several hundred flights.

   As far as lubrication qualities go, most of the synthetic I have used (Klotz KL series) has better properties *as a lubricant" in most regards than castor oil and also does not leave gummy residue that slowly degrades the piston/cylinder fits.   Synthetic, at least the types we use, also has lower viscosity at the temperature we run it through the plumbing, which is in some cases *critical to the run quality*. I think the viscosity for the oil we use does not follow the same curve as castor and catches up at higher temperatures (castor thins out more with temperature).

      Brett

I’ve been running 20% Klotz KL-198 since the 2021 NATS. This was after discussions with Dave, and running a gallon of Powermaster 15% low viscosity heli fuel. Ever since that little experiment, my home brew has been straight KL-198 and a cap full of Blendzall low viscosity castor. That comes out to about an ounce per gallon. Nitro content varies depending on the year from 10-15%.

For me, the lower viscosity the fuel, the better the engine runs and I have yet to run into any issues with the all synthetic after 3 years of running this mix
Matt Colan

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Re: Fuel Cap left off for about 3 hours
« Reply #21 on: October 15, 2024, 12:06:00 PM »
[quote author=Brett

     Synthetic, at least the types we use, also has lower viscosity at the temperature we run it through the plumbing, which is in some cases *critical to the run quality*. I think the viscosity for the oil we use does not follow the same curve as castor and catches up at higher temperatures (castor thins out more with temperature).

      Brett
[/quote]

..and not only in the plumbing, but also how the oil behaves inside the crankcase and in scavenging. The oil viscosity is a big factor in the running symmetry- and 4-2-4 -shift issues. L

Offline Leonard Bourel

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Re: Fuel Cap left off for about 3 hours
« Reply #22 on: October 15, 2024, 03:14:16 PM »
Hi Dave and Brett I am also running strait synthetic 20% (KLOTZ) in all my Ro Jetts and PA engines with absolutely no issues at all . I put a few drops of after run oil in the motor after each session .

Offline Motorman

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Re: Fuel Cap left off for about 3 hours
« Reply #23 on: October 15, 2024, 03:54:57 PM »
Long time ago, when you could still get ether from Red Max, I would use all 62RM in my 1/2a proto fuel which was 70% nitro. Never had a problem at 35 grand. In my case the oil was red color, never seen clear 62RM. Maybe they changed something, or maybe it was re-branded Klotz back then?

MM :)
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Online Brett Buck

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Re: Fuel Cap left off for about 3 hours
« Reply #24 on: October 15, 2024, 06:02:25 PM »
Long time ago, when you could still get ether from Red Max, I would use all 62RM in my 1/2a proto fuel which was 70% nitro. Never had a problem at 35 grand. In my case the oil was red color, never seen clear 62RM. Maybe they changed something, or maybe it was re-branded Klotz back then?

MM :)

   Part of the issue I have with it is that you never know, and they will never tell you, what exactly it is, if or when they changed it, or what they changed it to.  Maybe it was great and then it wasn't. maybe they improved it for gasoline mixed and made it incompatible with methanol, you just never know.

     Brett

Online Dave_Trible

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Re: Fuel Cap left off for about 3 hours
« Reply #25 on: October 15, 2024, 06:56:06 PM »
Long time ago, when you could still get ether from Red Max, I would use all 62RM in my 1/2a proto fuel which was 70% nitro. Never had a problem at 35 grand. In my case the oil was red color, never seen clear 62RM. Maybe they changed something, or maybe it was re-branded Klotz back then?

MM :)
I remember when I called to order the oil the guy asked if I wanted clear or red.   He said they just put dye in the clear oil to make it red.   
As for me I touched the stove and got burned.   I'll be sticking with my castor/ red technoplate mix in the future.   May even try 75/25 castor/ red oil.  I've been messing with some of my Merco engines lately-  they specifically say do not use any synthetic oil in them.  Sort of think Enya made the same comments.  They seem to run superbly on 2 1/2/ 25 all castor.   Maybe they also had bad experiences at some point.   I know they weren't cnc manufactured to tight tolerance and maybe that will have something to do with it.   

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Offline Motorman

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Re: Fuel Cap left off for about 3 hours
« Reply #26 on: October 16, 2024, 08:31:21 AM »
These days I use Klotz KL200 Original Techniplate for full synthetic. If you want synthetic with a little castor use the Klotz Super Techniplate.

MM :)
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Offline Russell Graves

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Re: Fuel Cap left off for about 3 hours
« Reply #27 on: December 29, 2024, 12:00:56 PM »

I distinguish "bad" fuel from "wrong" fuel. I can go get some Powermaster GMA, or any other home-job 10/22 50-50 fuel, and my engine will run ratty on inside loops very reliably, switch back to 10/17 75-25, back to normal, I can add up to at least 5% KL-198 and it is still OK (although it runs much differently).
   

Hi Brett, just making sure I understand the numbers correctly. I believe that's 10% nitro with 17% oil, and the oil is 75% synthetic / 25% castor, or is it 75% castor / 25% synthetic?

Also, is the KL-198 a castor oil or synthetic oil?

thanks.

Online Brett Buck

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Re: Fuel Cap left off for about 3 hours
« Reply #28 on: December 29, 2024, 02:05:59 PM »
Hi Brett, just making sure I understand the numbers correctly. I believe that's 10% nitro with 17% oil, and the oil is 75% synthetic / 25% castor, or is it 75% castor / 25% synthetic?

Also, is the KL-198 a castor oil or synthetic oil?

thanks.

  10% Nitro, 17% total oil, 75% of which is synthetic, 25% of which is castor oil. KL-198 is a low-viscosity synthetic.

     Brett

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