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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Guy B Jr on April 23, 2014, 11:20:30 PM
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I recently got two ARF Fllite Streaks and a couple of FP20's. I plan to set them up Brett/Dan style.
Question: The kits came with metal tanks. Are they any good or should I just purchase some Hayes tanks?
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Hayes are cheap. The tank with the plane is a simple metal tank. Probably a bit too small for the pattern.
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Don't forget the DD-recommended balance point. I've heard horror stories about Flight Streaks balanced per the plan.
Strap a 3 oz Hayes tank on the inboard side of the nose. You'll be a happy camper. I think you need something like 2 1/2 ounces to do the pattern with that combination.
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Hi Guy -
You might be interested in the results of the B/D setup on my Flite Streak just last weekend:
http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=35000.0
Terry
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I'll also mention that, while I'm still learning how to start the .20 FP on the airframe, hand-starting it takes a LOT of prime to get it to fire off w/muffler pressure on the Hayes tank.
That may be normal for the set-up tho'.
Hand starting on the bench was easy w/a regular vent tank.
Terry
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I'll also mention that, while I'm still learning how to start the .20 FP on the airframe, hand-starting it takes a LOT of prime to get it to fire off w/muffler pressure on the Hayes tank.
That may be normal for the set-up tho'.
Hand starting on the bench was easy w/a regular vent tank.
I don;t have the inboard tank setup, but I have always found any of these engines absurdly easy to start. Almost uncanny when it comes to starting after hanging on the wall for years. Fly it, hang it up, no after-run oil, wait 5 years. Choke by pulling through 4-5 times with my thumb over the hole, aerate until it start to get a little less gummy, and flip *forward*, off it goes.
The one complaint I might have about the rear-needle versions is that the fuel tends to run out of the feed line between the needle and the spraybar more than with a front-needle system. You can see it happen, and the tendency is to start, then go lean and quit, before it sucks enough fuel to keep going. The solution is to get it ready to go, then pull one choke, and flip immediately. Or the old "hot 40VF" trick of flipping with a partial choke with your thumb.
There is a definite feel you need to get before it will go, and that is a matter of experience. You have to get enough fuel in it to loosen it up, and aerate it well enough to get a mixture that will fire. That's a skill to learn.
Brett
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Another caution Guy - the in-tank fuel line that came with my Hayes tank split and fell off inside the tank shortly after installation; I suggest using a different type of line or at least be aware of the possibility, should your engine stop drawing fuel suddenly.
Terry
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Toss the metal tank that came with the planes. I had a 3 ounce metal tank with a uniflow setup built for my ARF Flite streak. I dont use muffler pressure. Just air pressure and it runs great.
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I also got rid of the os needle valve system and put in a Super tigre needle valve on my LA 25. Runs perfect
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Not sure it makes a difference, but the OS remotes on my .20 FP, .25 FP and .46 LA are mounted on a thin alum tab, not the factory backplate strut.
They needle well and hold a setting perfectly.
YMMV.
Terry
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Thanks Guys,
The consensus is overwhelming for the Hayes tank. That is what I expected.
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Thanks Guys,
The consensus is overwhelming for the Hayes tank. That is what I expected.
Yes, Hayes 3-ounce tank seems best and is probably the only detail I added to Brett's tune-up. So he gets all the credit, not me.
Early on the only reason for using this tank was that it sorta fit behind the engine and on right side of fuselage. However, slipping it to the left side of fuselage made tank stupid-easy to install and to work with. And then, and then! this whack-job tank installation worked so well that to this day no better tank has popped up. So don't look at stock plumbing and mutter it can't work for CL Stunt...
Dan
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Dan,
10-4, thanks for the background info.
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The metal tank i have made for my flite streak works better then the hayes tank i had on there.
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An update Guy -
Brett's comments about easy starting and the remote needle's tendency to drain back fuel led me to exchange the remote with a standard OS NVA and instead of several minutes trying, I can now choke 3-4 rotations, flip 4-5 times and it fires right up.
I sure like the remote's safety and it held setting wonderfully, but the stock needle holds great too and starts so much easier for me.
I agree w/Andrew - change it out.
Terry
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Hey rid of the OS MAx NVA all together. Use an Super tigre NVA and you can get even finer adjustment of your RPMS and get even better runs that are consistent and smooth.
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There was nothing I would call hard wood in the motor mount area of mine. I cut brass tubing the width of the fuselage and epoxied it in so the engine bolts wouldn't crush it.
MM
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++ on the cross tubing.
Terry