cutting fiberglass

[Bootlegger]

  What is the best way to cut f/glass without it fraying and going "goofy", seems that I read that putting it in news paper and folding the paper around it helps..  Your way/thoughts??  Thanks

[Dennis Nunes]

Try a "rotary cutter". Something like this.

Dennis

[Curare]

giving it some backing certainly helps, I mist a bit of spray adhesive onto paper, and the use a roller cutter to cut what I need out, and them apply it to the model, and remove the backing paper.

[Curare]

I can cut 1.6oz glass on a hobbieco mat with a new #11 blade with no problems. For thinner glass I use sharp scissors.

Once you've tried a rotary cutter, you won't use a blade or scissors ever again.

[Curare]

Quilting shops and sewing centers carry those rotary cutters. My wife has several. BUT she won't let me borrow one. Yet she uses my cutting pads. Warning, those things are circular razors.

Aww comeon Ty, you've had all your fingers for long enough, let the cutter do it's work!

[Gerald Arana]

Once you've tried a rotary cutter, you won't use a blade or scissors ever again.

Amen!

Jerry

[Brett Buck]

In addition to the (highly recommended) rotary cutter, you can keep it from fraying by spraying it with a very light coat of "fabric sizing" used in place of starch when ironing, then ironing it. This sticks it together just enough to keep from fraying while you are cutting and manipulating it, and as far as I can tell, has no consequential effect on adhesion or any other negative effect. Nitrate dope or hair spray probably works, too, just the lightest dusting.

    Brett

[Target]

And, the OLDEST trick in the book, when slicing off a piece from a roll, lay a strip of low-tack masking tape across it, and cut the strip in two (lengthwise) with scissors!!

[Curare]

And, the OLDEST trick in the book, when slicing off a piece from a roll, lay a strip of low-tack masking tape across it, and cut the strip in two (lengthwise) with scissors!!

When dealing with BIG rolls of glass, like 600 gsm rovings, we used to pull a weft (crossways strand) out of the weave and you'd have a neat cut line to follow and you're only cutting the warp (the longways strands)

I can't remember who taught me, but it certainly works nicely, but is a complete waste of time on anything less than about 450 GSM.

[Perry Rose]

I use my "T" bar sander. The sandpaper holds the cloth while I  cut it with a No. 11 blade. Also wear rubber gloves. The cloth won't stick to your fingers.

[jfv]

Spray the cut line with a light coat of hair spray.  Use a very sharp pair of scissors.  I have one pair of scissors I only use for fiberglass.

[Istvan Travnik]

I work from the beginning of my glass & resin works with the same old, (40+ years) detachable tailors' chinese scissor. Never cut with it nothing else but glass or carbon. No tin, no paper, no plywoood.
When I started, I detached, I polished the side surfaces on a wet paper (laying on a piece of glass table) in "X" shape, up till polishing.
Then I sanded the edges slightly backwards (30 or 40°) with a block of mid-rough sanding stone. This is essential: this shape holds the fabric, does not push forwards during cutting. Sharp, but smooth, polished edge will not work properly.
My newly sanded scissor can cut even the Kevlar fabric, without pushing out!  (Who tried, knows how difficult is)
Istvan

[Fred Cronenwett]

I use a new sharp blade and lay it down on a cutting board and cut in one cut