Evo 36 engines

[Bootlegger]

   Guy's I have about 45 min on each of my Evo 36's and have found that they are a direct bolt in/on for models with OS 32 engines.
  I have a couple of models with OS engines on them and so I have an Evo in place to hopefully try this weekend.
  I also want to put a regular front neevle valve assy in, but will have to sleeve the nva up to fit the retainer hole that now holds the venturi in place.
  The OS muffler also fits the Evo..

[david beazley]

I have also received my Evo .36.  I noticed the mounting holes match up for the Fox .35 although the case is a smidgen wider than the Fox.  I have not had a chance to run it yet, hopefully this weekend, tho.

[proparc]

Well!! all of you guys are telling us you've got them, and that you are breaking them in, but, DO YOU LIKE THEM!!!!

[john e. holliday]

Just got home from the NATS and just looked at mine.  Hope it runs as well as it looks.  DOC Holliday

[Bootlegger]

 Gotta fly it before I can make that statement...

[Garf]

I have also received my Evo .36.  I noticed the mounting holes match up for the Fox .35 although the case is a smidgen wider than the Fox.  I have not had a chance to run it yet, hopefully this weekend, tho.

If that's the case, I have it made. One of my rebuilds is fitted for the Fox. It's not quite ready yet, but it's next in line.

[david beazley]

I just ran the first tankfull on the bench.  I ran a Master Ariscrew 10-4 with Red Max 5% R/C fuel all synthetic with the supplied glow plug.  Started on the third flip.  Had the NVA at the full rich setting then leaned it out some to a rich 4 cycle.  At full rich ran around 9450 rpms.  Leaned out but still rich around 10200.  Sweet running engine at first blush.  Ran strong through out the 6 oz tank.  I like it!

[Garf]

Mine didn't like the plug. It wouldn't 4 cycle at all, just quit. I also found a quick way to eliminate the rear NVA using an R/C NVA. Details here:  http://hangarflying.proboards18.com/index.cgi?board=wire&action=display&thread=2536

[Alan Hahn]

Mine didn't like the plug. It wouldn't 4 cycle at all, just quit. I also found a quick way to eliminate the rear NVA using an R/C NVA. Details here:  http://hangarflying.proboards18.com/index.cgi?board=wire&action=display&thread=2536

Phil,
I'd cut off the length of the inner tube so that it ended in the middle of the venturi. That's where the fastest airflow would be. The way it shows in the photo, I would be afraid that the fuel might just plaster the nearest side of the venturi--giving you lousy mixing with the incoming air. Not positive of course, but it is worth a try if you still are having issues with the 4-stroking capability of the engine.

[don Burke]

On the link he did say the end was beveled (apparently downstream) at 45 degrees. It could maybe be adjusted out a little since it's secured with a jam nut.  Though there might not be enough threads.

Also the very sensitive needle sounds like too low compression, or not enough nitro.

[Garf]

4 cycling problem was too cold a plug. I put in a ST R/C plug and that cured it. The tube would have to be cut to end up in the middle. There are not enough threads.

[Andrew Borgogna]

I just completed putting a few runs on mine.  I am doing the two minute drill with a light prop, the book says 9200 but on a 10x6 the slowest I could get it to run was 10.5 to 11K.  I haven't checked the other venturi inserts but my guess is it came with the large on installed.  It started easy and runs very well, I will put a few more breaking runs on the bench then Oriental here I come.  So far I am quite impressed with this motor.
Andhy

[Steve Holt]

I got in my first flight on the EVO36 this morning.  Man, this thing has power!  I set it to a fat 2 cycle and after it leaned out a bit in flight it was like I was back flying a slow combat plane.  My old ARF Primary Force was flying 4.1 sec. laps.  Prop was a 10X6 RSM and fuel was 10/22 PowerMaster.  I have an old OS 25FSR muffler on it now, but will change to the EVO tongue for the next flight.  Tank was a 4 oz Hayes clunk on muffler pressure.  Engine run was stable and there was no stuttering or sagging even in continuous maneuvers.  I'm really optimistic that this will be a really good engine.  Although the run with the rear needle valve was fine, I still think I will work out a conventional needle installation just to save weight.   I have a nylon venturi that Scott Reise made for me for another engine that is retained by the draw bar, but has a conventional needle valve installation through the nylon just above the engine casting.   Another possility is a JEN ventrui that accepts the FP40 RC needle valve assemble much like Garf's installation of the Max S RC assembly.  The FP40 installation is adjustable for depth in the venturi.
Steve

[Garf]

The tube would have to be cut to end up in the middle. There are not enough threads.

Already cut it down. Will have to wait a few days to run it.

[Bootlegger]

   Went flying yesterday afternoon, and the 36 runs like "Jack the Bear" in other words, real well.
   Made about 6 flights and am real pleased with the way it runs.
  I made some changes also put an OS rear needle on it and J B welded the medium venturi so I could drill it out to a smaller size, it helps with draw, but these engines like fuel, I was getting a little over 5 minutes with 5% nitro and 22 % oil .  Will be trying some more flights later, but am pleased with the engine so for...

[Garf]

Are you running the muffler/muffler pressure?

[Andrew Borgogna]

I measured all three venturies that came with my engine and sure enough the engine came with the largest one installed.  That explains why I could not get it to run below 11K on the bench.  I will swap in the small venturi tonight and give it a go.  With a little luck I will have the Oriental ready to fly by weekend. 
Andy

[Dave Adamisin]

Hi Andrew. I have been running the medium size vent in the Vector and the small one on the Cardinal. The big one is for those really large power needs.  I have used 11x4, 5, and 6 props. On the bench the vents produced about 500 rpm intervals (fast four) with the 11x4 Powerpoint.

[Andrew Borgogna]

Thanks for the information Dave, would you recommend the small or medium on the Oriental.  I am still leaning toward the small I would think the Oriental is smaller and lighter than the Cardinal.  But I am most certainly open to your suggestions.
Andy

[Bootlegger]

   Garf, No I'm not running muffler pressure, open vent to atmosphere...
 

[Dave Adamisin]

Thanks for the information Dave, would you recommend the small or medium on the Oriental.  I am still leaning toward the small I would think the Oriental is smaller and lighter than the Cardinal.  But I am most certainly open to your suggestions.
Andy

You're welcome. I would try the small first. I have been using muffler pressure/uniflow because I'm used to it. At Brodak I had a 4 oz Dubro rectangular tank with the midline uniflow vent and an 11x5 MA on 5% Cool Power. I haven't tried any exotic props yet but will, soon. I was close on the engine run time. I need to turn down the clunk cause it's not draining the tank completely. I have a new tank in it now. It's a Brodak tall wedge that i re-vented to uniflow. Gonna try to get it in the air this week.

[FLOYD CARTER]

My Evo 36 arrived last week.  I don't know why I ordered it, but I'm sure it will get some use.  I'm impressed by the quality and the fit.  Also, 2 ball bearings is an improvement over the usual O.S. 35 motors.

Floyd in OR

[Dave Adamisin]

A little tip on the needle valve limiter. My mechanics (dad and moba) didn't like the limiter. I found a simple trick to make them happy. If you look at the blue collar there is a set screw that holds it in place. If you loosen the set screw you can slide the tension spring along the valve body. I moved it out along the body to position the center of clearence bump in the spring over limiter pin. it gives you about three turns on the valve before you bump the spring. Remember to align the set screw either on the tension spring c/l or 180 deg around. It adds tension to the spring.

[Balsa Butcher]

Everyone:  Got my Evo 36 - all that I expected, really nice.    Question: I'm trying to change venturi to the smaller one prior to running.  Have removed the Carburetor Retainer screw but the venturi doesn't want to come out of the engine case.  Am I missing something or is that puppy just really tight?   Thought I'd ask before I break out the vice-grips or letting my friend Mongo have a go at it. 

[Richard Grogan]

A little tip on the needle valve limiter. My mechanics (dad and moba) didn't like the limiter. I found a simple trick to make them happy. If you look at the blue collar there is a set screw that holds it in place. If you loosen the set screw you can slide the tension spring along the valve body. I moved it out along the body to position the center of clearence bump in the spring over limiter pin. it gives you about three turns on the valve before you bump the spring. Remember to align the set screw either on the tension spring c/l or 180 deg around. It adds tension to the spring.

You can just pull the limiter pin out of the needle valve with pliers and do away with it. It came on the RC version as well and was intended for the beginner to only have one turn of control making it a "fool proof" feature.Same goes for the NVA on the new CL version.

[Garf]

A little tip on the needle valve limiter. My mechanics (dad and moba) didn't like the limiter. I found a simple trick to make them happy. If you look at the blue collar there is a set screw that holds it in place. If you loosen the set screw you can slide the tension spring along the valve body. I moved it out along the body to position the center of clearence bump in the spring over limiter pin. it gives you about three turns on the valve before you bump the spring. Remember to align the set screw either on the tension spring c/l or 180 deg around. It adds tension to the spring.

I just swapped out the needle for a Thunder Tigre unit. It's an exact match.

[Dave Adamisin]

Everyone:  Got my Evo 36 - all that I expected, really nice.    Question: I'm trying to change venturi to the smaller one prior to running.  Have removed the Carburetor Retainer screw but the venturi doesn't want to come out of the engine case.  Am I missing something or is that puppy just really tight?   Thought I'd ask before I break out the vice-grips or letting my friend Mongo have a go at it. 

Hi Pete. Put the bolt back in but don't tighten it. Use the allen wrench to push on the head of the bolt. The holder is a two piece pinch-bar. You just need to move the far side away from the vent and it should come right out.

[Dave Adamisin]

Hey rich and Garf, even easier.... DOH!

[Balsa Butcher]

Thanks Dave - I suspected that there was a "technique" that I was not applying correctly.  Mongo will be disappointed.