stunthanger.com
General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Curtis Shipp on September 05, 2010, 06:40:24 PM
-
I tried out my new stooge today. I used an automobile remote keyless entry and 2 lock actuators and Brodak stooge. I am not into electronics so it looks rough. One actuator pulls a lock bar when you hit lock and the second one lets the plane go when you press unlock. This is the best thing I have to make practice possible, as I do not have to fool with the stooge string or try to get someone to launch for me.
I also crashed my SV-22 today, not the stooges fault. FAA aka (Ronnie Thompson) ruled pilot error. I think I heard him say something like (you can't fix stupid). I will never ever try anything when the plane is way to slow. Anybody got a SV-22 for sale with or without motor.
Will post a picture of the stooge tomorrow. I cannot find my camera right now.
PS: if the monkeys want to beat on me, I beat back. LL~ LL~
-
Picture 1 - Plane ready to start. both locks on. I leave the controller at the handle, not in my pocket. I pick it up after the handle is in my hand.
-
Picture 2 - Handle in hand, controller in hand, controls checked, lock off.
-
Picture 3 - Plane launched.
I get perfect release everytime. My takeoff scores will go up.
-
I like it.....
-
y1 Looks like RUBE GOLDBERG to me...LOL #^
-
It is. But I like it and someone can clean up the design. I would buy a production version if someone will make it. It works a lot better then a string stooge. I take the stooge to the plane after I land so I do not kink lines moving the plane to the stooge. It is large enough that it will hold a big dog plane. I will bring it to your contest and let you try it. H^^
PS: I built this thing on the tailgate of my truck under a tree in about 1 hr. More fun then using my machine shop. The wiring took 3 hrs because I had no idea how remote locks on a car worked.
Rube Goldberg how dare you. This is real shade tree engineering. n~ n~ LL~
-
That's just pretty slick...I like the safety lock feature. No accidental launch if it takes 2 deliberate moves. VC (VeryCool)
-
Bootlegger
I know of no engineer that has invented any where near as many thing, in so many varied fields, as Mr. Rube Goldburg!!
LOL
Clancy
-
That's brilliant.
-
Neat -- where do you get the parts? Is this an aftermarket system, are you schlepping down to the junkyard, or are the pieces coming from your local Ford (or whatever) dealer?
I know that for our Subaru those keyfobs are pretty darned spendy -- what sort of $$ you talking to get the parts?
-
I got all the electronics at Radio Shack. Auto mate system , actuators, relays for $112.00. I am using a small 12 volt battery $39.00 and a 12" x 2' x 1" oak board from Lowes. The string came from my lawn mower when it wadded up while I mowed grass after having some horse fence installed.
-
Pretty nifty, IMO. A cord line, well, just yanks. LL~
-
Very neat design! H^^
-
I got all the electronics at Radio Shack. Auto mate system , actuators, relays for $112.00. I am using a small 12 volt battery $39.00 and a 12" x 2' x 1" oak board from Lowes. The string came from my lawn mower when it wadded up while I mowed grass after having some horse fence installed.
Hi Curtis,
That is a nice setup. It looks like it costs around $150. An alternate may be to use the ARP unit below for under $100. You can also use this unit for a RC tow truck to pull your plane back to the pit area after your flight. ;-)
Link: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0161p?&I=LZ0216
-
Picture 3 - Plane launched.
I get perfect release everytime. My takeoff scores will go up.
Curtiss.....
Depending on the alarm sys./keyless entry/remote start device being used.......
Be sure the lock/unlock outputs are set to the shortest timed output/s......
Door lock actuators have a way of self destructing when not used under a certain amount of "load"
i.e. when the rods are interconnected to an actual push/pull lock pushrod.
Also, for those that use SPDT relays......
Using a type "E" setup (car alarm descriptive....) usually contained in the installation manuals of some of the alarm/keyless device booklets that come in the box when new.
Not a bad idea!
Just be careful, I have seen a simple Makita drill activate/de-activate (lock/unlock) these before!
As in the "frequencies" that the brushes/commutator from the electric motor within the drill, can send of sporatic frequencies, that can trigger some devices.
Brushless, won't cause the issue/s.
Just thought I should give those warnings, since this device could become a safety scenario.
How do I know?
I happen to have been one of the "instructor/specialists that worked for one of the largest alarm manufacturers in the world for about 5 years.
And was in the business for about 20.
I know this is getting a bit technical.....
But the "code hopping" settings, if so equipped, can help with a code algorythm, to help some of those issues.
Doc
-
Great idea!!!, All prototypes are rough, we know that and I 'm sure the next one will be better. Just be sure your trunk don't open at the same time! LL~ LL~ LL~----LOUIE
-
I will change a few things on this one, but this will be the only one I build. I only have pickup trucks, no trunk. #^
-
You can increase the reliability by using a " Stooge Wire" secured to the planes fuselage instead of the string. Occasionaly a string can get caught / fouled in the tail wheel/stooge/grass and cause an issue, wire won't.
Use music wire that is formed into a loop at the end that will fit between the 2 release pin supports, and either wrap and solder to the tail wheel wire, or secure to the fuselage seperately. Just ensure the wire / mounting is sturdy enough to handle to pull from the plane at power.
-
::) The way to identify a "shade tree mechanic" is by the amount of LEAVE'S in his tool box..!!
-
I like it, but as an extra safety feature I would add a pin with a cord attached. This would lock the mechanism until pulled out by the flier in the center of the circle. Then the electronic unlock could be activated and the airplane released. S?P LL~ LL~
-
Hi Curtis,
That is a nice setup. It looks like it costs around $150. An alternate may be to use the ARP unit below for under $100. You can also use this unit for a RC tow truck to pull your plane back to the pit area after your flight. ;-)
Link: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0161p?&I=LZ0216
One problem with a surface R/C setup is the kid down the street. He gets an electric car and launches me while I walk to the center. A keyless entry system is short ranged.
-
One problem with a surface R/C setup is the kid down the street. He gets an electric car and launches me while I walk to the center. A keyless entry system is short ranged.
This is a modern 2.4G system. There is no interference from anyone, anywhere. We have been using them in RC for several years now. The TX syncs up with your Rec. and only YOUR Rec. We have flown with 50 RC A/C using 2.4G radios in the air at the same time with no problems. It is a dream come true for RC, and your stooge. ...... The kid down the street will not have any effect on your RC controlled stooge. :-)
-
This is a modern 2.4G system. There is no interference from anyone, anywhere. We have been using them in RC for several years now. The TX syncs up with your Rec. and only YOUR Rec. We have flown with 50 RC A/C using 2.4G radios in the air at the same time with no problems. It is a dream come true for RC, and your stooge. ...... The kid down the street will not have any effect on your RC controlled stooge. :-)
That is good. No more checking frequency. No more shoot downs. I might go and fly some R/C again. But C/L is still my favorite.
-
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9041&Product_Name=Hobby_King_2.4Ghz_6Ch_Tx_&_Rx_V2_(Mode_1)
$25 for RX and TX
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9618&Product_Name=Power_HD_Metal_Gear_Servo_60g/12.2kg/.16sec
$12 for high tourque metal geared servo
-
Hi Dave,
I know you are just trying to save people money, but this may be a case of "penny wise and pound foolish" The stooge requires a failsafe system. I would not want to trust my nice CL plane to the very cheap radio shown in your link. Like this companies cheap unreliable E motors, they are not reliable enough to meet the relatively high standards needed for our tough CL environment. Unlike launching in RC, our CL launch is a hair trigger situation. If the radio gives a false signal while your walking out to the handle you are in big trouble. If you don't have the handle captured the plane flys away, dangerously. If you do have your handle captured it is highly likely that your beautiful CL plane will be damaged. IMHO: both are a high price to pay just to save a few $s.
This is why the very reliable pull string hooked up to a reliable system like the excellent Morris stooge, or the very good unit made by Brodak has been so popular. With a little care and caution it is foolproof and very close to 100% reliable. I use both of these stooges (Morris on pavement, Brodak on grass) and have over 400 launches on them. I have a friend that has almost 1,000 stooge launches without mishap.
For additional safety you can fly using E power. One of the many advantages to flying with E power is that the motor is OFF while you walk out to the handle. This combined with the safety of the stooge makes it a very safe and reliable launch method. :-)
The idea of an electric, remotely operated stooge is cool, but I think it requires quality equipment to insure it's reliability and safety. Like in most things, using trusted, reliable, name brand, quality equipment is worth the extra cost in the long run. .... But, your milage may vary. ;-)
-
You don't need a spend $100 for an RF stooge release. A garage door opener will do just fine with the same safety and reliability you open your door. A relay for a car door opener is like $10.
The $25 hobby city radio will work fine for a single on on off function too at 70 feet. I have a few of them. They work fine on park fliers.
Prices for electronics continue to fall.
-
FYI-- Wireless stooge has been discussed early last year in SSW
http://www.clstunt.com/htdocs/dc/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=103&topic_id=324082&mesg_id=324082&listing_type=search
Sean
-
Wish I had known about that post. I could have made a better looking stooge. I will really clean mine up and re post a picture. I will try a 7.2 v R/C car battery for the actuators and a 12 v pack of AA batteries for the controller. This will be lighter and the 7.2 v will not be as hard on the gears of the actuators. plus a light to tell me when the power is on. Thanks for the heads up.
-
I also fly some electric. The timer has a "delay" feature, so that you can get to the handle while the timer times-out and then starts the motor. But I've disabled that feature because I still don't trust anything electronic! (yes, I'm an electronic engineer- and that's why I don't trust them!).
My e-models are always held by my pit crew, who pushes the "start" button after I have the handle and safety thong all set. Likewise, I'm the one to retrieve the plane, so that I can pull the interlock plug in the battery circuit before touching the plane.
Floyd
-
Wish I had known about that post. I could have made a better looking stooge. I will really clean mine up and re post a picture. I will try a 7.2 v R/C car battery for the actuators and a 12 v pack of AA batteries for the controller. This will be lighter and the 7.2 v will not be as hard on the gears of the actuators. plus a light to tell me when the power is on. Thanks for the heads up.
Curtis,
You got some interesting mechanical safety feature in your stooge and I like it!
Well, it all comes in generations. I am with my third generation wireless stooge now. The photo in the SSW was the second generation. The attached photos are current production which uses the existing stooge anchors to the flying field.
If I were you, I would still use one 12V battery to power the whole thing. First, I found it is earlier to carry only one battery to the field and also you don't need two chargers to charge two batteries. Second, actuator needs high juice (both current and the voltage) to pull properly and release the plane. I discovered when my 12V battery is running low, the actuator won't release the plane even though the receiver worked properly.
Sean
-
Well I have 20 flights on my stooge. I put in 6 flights this afternoon and with 3 more days to go till Sellersburg, In Skyliners contest I should be a lot better. It may seem pricey and overkill but I will be flying a whole lot from now on. My bottoms are better but my Square 8s are still pretty bad. I can only say it makes flying by yourself a lot easier. H^^