Electric Twister comes in when turning and Timer set up???

[Paul Taylor]

Hey Guys, need a little help.

I built a Electric Twister and in the process of setting it up.

Setup is a Hubin Timer, BA ESC, Cobra motor.
I had to change the program on the timer to Throttle mode because it would not allow me to adjust the RPM. Is that the correct selection?

The plane flys good in level flight and when the motor quits it glides in with little handle input.
When in flight I turned it over to inverted flight and it seem to come in and get light on the lines. Then when turning it back over to up right flight it really came in and went into free flight.
What are some things to check?
Thanks

[gene poremba]

 Paul, I'd look to see that one side of your elevator and or your flaps are not tweaked more than the other side. Look at the model from the tail end at a slight distance and eyeball the elevators and flaps to see that they are on the same plane. You should be able to see any warp in the wings also......Gene

[Brett Buck]

The plane flys good in level flight and when the motor quits it glides in with little handle input.
When in flight I turned it over to inverted flight and it seem to come in and get light on the lines. Then when turning it back over to up right flight it really came in and went into free flight.
What are some things to check?
Thanks

  Check for a warp, and whether or not the wings are level upright and inverted. Even if you don't find a warp, adjust it until the line tension is equal upright and inverted. I presume that the hinge line is already sealed, if not, seal the hinge lines and start over.

   Other possibilities include stab tilt.

      Brett

[Tim Wescott]

I need to make a video on how to do this...

Put the spinner on your toe, close one eye, and sight down the fuselage.  Tilt the plane in pitch until you see equal amounts of wing above and below the trailing edge (move the flaps as necessary so you can see). 

Now, without moving the position of the plane or your head, slide your line of sight to each wing tip.  You should see equal amounts of wing above and below the trailing edge.  If you don't the wing is twisted and you need to fix it.

While you're doing that, check to see whether or not the flaps are lined up with each other.  If they aren't, and the wings are straight, then the flaps need to be tweaked (after you fly it, the flaps should be tweaked to where they need to be, but more than a 1/4" difference between them and the plane flying pretty good means that something is warped).

Now tilt the plane in pitch until the vertical stab is visually just touching the wing.  On a Twister, the bottom of the stab should look exactly parallel to the wing (on a wing with taper, the stab should be spaced equally at the tips).  If there's visible stab tilt, you need to fix it.  While you're looking, make sure the elevators are lined up with each other -- if they're tweaked, you want to un-tweak them.

Finally, measure the length of each stab from the fuse center to the tip, to make sure you centered the stab.  These should be equal to within 1/16".  If you did, measure each rear tip of the stab to the back of the canopy at the center of the fuselage.  These should be equal to within 1/16".

If anything looks wrong report back -- we'll tell you how to fix it.

[Ken Culbertson]

Hey Guys, need a little help.

I built a Electric Twister and in the process of setting it up.

Setup is a Hubin Timer, BA ESC, Cobra motor.
I had to change the program on the timer to Throttle mode because it would not allow me to adjust the RPM. Is that the correct selection?

The plane flys good in level flight and when the motor quits it glides in with little handle input.
When in flight I turned it over to inverted flight and it seem to come in and get light on the lines. Then when turning it back over to up right flight it really came in and went into free flight.
What are some things to check?
Thanks

On the timer, I have never used a BA ESC, however, I do not think that Throttle mode is correct.  When the motor looses RPMs in any kind of maneuver it should recover immediately.  You should be feeling an RPM "bump" coming out of something as simple as flipping the plane over.  Anything else you do to correct this will be a waste of time until you get the timer/esc right. 

Back to aerodynamic reasons for the problem other that what Brett, and now Tim, posted which will be the primary cause.  One I have encountered was a weak flap horn being driven by a bolt on horn on the outboard wing.  All of the control force went to the outboard flap and they did not move equally under load.  Same would apply to the Elevator.  Next comes tip weight.  I flew an F-Twister as my Profile in competition and practice plane off season for two years.  It needs enough tip weight.  Mine also liked being a bit nose heavy.   Here is where I get slapped upside the head by the no rudder crowd.  Mine never flew very well over 45 until I gave it 1/4" of rudder offset.  Maybe it was trying to hold on to it's roots

Ken

Oh, one more.  Take a look at the line rake.  If it is excessive, you may be flying nose in already.

[Bob Hudak]

Need to know if you're running a pusher prop. If you are then the motor needs to be mounted with up and out thrust. About 1/16" outthrust and one washer to give it upthrust.
 After looking at your pic it appears to be standard rotation, make sure you have a bit of down and out thrust if this is so.

[Howard Rush]

Tim's process explanation is good.  You can alternatively put the plane on a table and prop up the tail until you can center the TE on the wing from your eyeball reference.  Follow Tim's process and tape the flaps before you fly it again.  Then put a good size blob of clay on the right wing tip and go to the beginning of the Walker trim chart.

Our club once put on a stunt plane trimming clinic.  I'd to the Tim process, then Paul Walker would do the flight trimming.  He was tired at the end of the day. 

[Paul Taylor]

Thanks everyone for the quick replies. I will check all of the above and report back. Will try and get some detail pictures.
Stay tuned….

[Howard Rush]

Thanks everyone for the quick replies. I will check all of the above and report back. Will try and get some detail pictures.
Stay tuned….

Good luck picking out the good advice from the bogus.

[Tim Wescott]

... You can alternatively put the plane on a table and prop up the tail until you can center the TE on the wing from your eyeball reference....

In my shop it's much easier to find an unoccupied toe than a few square feet of unoccupied table top.  But yes.

[Howard Rush]

In my shop it's much easier to find an unoccupied toe than a few square feet of unoccupied table top.  But yes.

My airplane is so heavy that the toe method is painful-- another reason why I don't use a needle-nose spinner.

[Motorman]

If it turns in that bad it must be a glaring problem.

On my Ftwister I had to replace the wood for the flaps because it was too punky. Since it's already built, you could strip off the covering and glue 1.6oz glass on the bias with zap zpoxy top and bottom.

How thick are your joiner wires? should be 3/32" min.

 

[Paul Taylor]

I had a few minutes before bed and looked at the alignment. It was hard to see it on my toe so I put it on a rack. I still did not see anything. So I thought I would take a picture. Maybe I see it. What do y’all see?

[Paul Taylor]

Well it won’t let me attach the photo.  😖

[Paul Taylor]

Try this

[Paul Taylor]

I will measure the stab tips tomorrow and report back.

[Ken Culbertson]

Try this

It looks close enough for a profile. It will twist in flight anyway.  It is not enough to be the root cause.  My money is still on a weak inboard flap.  What is with the bellcrank pushrod?  It looks pretty thin.

Ken

[Paul Taylor]

It looks close enough for a profile. It will twist in flight anyway.  It is not enough to be the root cause.  My money is still on a weak inboard flap.  What is with the bellcrank pushrod?  It looks pretty thin.

Ken

Thanks Ken I will check the flaps. The outboard stab is up. The compressed photo does not show it very well. I will try and get a better photo.
As for the pushrod, again it’s a bad photo. The pushrod is a arrow shaft. 😉

[Jim Svitko]

Regarding the bellcrank to flap pushrod:   Ken might have spotted something.  Is that a "Z" bend I see in that pushrod?  Although that section of pushrod is rather short, you are putting an off-center load on that section of wire.  The pushrod might be buckling just enough to cause a problem since the load is not aligned with the axis of the pushrod.

[Tim Wescott]

Try this

The wing looks straight.  The stab looks like it's installed fairly well, but the stab itself looks warped, and in a direction that would make the plane roll to the inside when you're inverted.

You may be able to twist the stab straight with heat -- I'd try that first.  Expect that you'll have to keep at it.  The stab that came in the Twister kit that I built was heavy 3/16" wood of no particular distinction, and pretty close to A-grain (i.e. plain sawn).  If that's what you got in your kit, then it will just naturally want to warp.

If you can't get it to stay flat then start a new thread about just that subject -- you'll get about a bazillion suggestions for what to do about it, so you can pick and choose the one that most suits your fancy.  Most will involve replacing the stab, so be warned.

[Brett Buck]

I apologize, I buried the lede - since it gets light in either turn, *add tipweight* until you can reliably get through both turns, THEN, check the difference between the upright and inverted roll angle. It is no accident that the first block in Paul's flowchart is "tipweight" - in this case, you have to keep it alive long enough to get to a reasonable test. Then, start checking for what is warped.

      Brett

p.s. 

When in flight I turned it over to inverted flight and it seem to come in and get light on the lines. Then when turning it back over to up right flight it really came in and went into free flight.

[Tim Wescott]

I apologize, I buried the lede - since it gets light in either turn,...

I re-read Paul's description, and I still got that it gets light on outsides only (inverted and the outside half-loop to upright).

So, Paul -- does it only get light in inverted flight and when you're doing that outside half-loop to upright?  Or is it just light all around, or light when you turn in either direction, or what?

I'm not questioning Brett -- he is correct that more tip weight will keep the airplane alive long enough to figure out what's really going on.  If you fly again, add tip weight -- then you fix your warp, yaw, whatever, and you'll take it out again.

[Paul Taylor]

  Check for a warp, and whether or not the wings are level upright and inverted. Even if you don't find a warp, adjust it until the line tension is equal upright and inverted. I presume that the hinge line is already sealed, if not, seal the hinge lines and start over.

   Other possibilities include stab tilt.

      Brett

The flaps are attached using the monokote method so it is sealed.
And I do have some tilt in the stab. The OB is up just a tad.

[Brett Buck]

The flaps are attached using the monokote method so it is sealed.
And I do have some tilt in the stab. The OB is up just a tad.

  Note my addendum - if it is getting light in both directions, *add tipweight* until it is safe to fly, then, proceed with evening out the roll angle.  I apologize for missing the important bit on my first response.

      Brett

[Paul Taylor]

It has 1/4 oz tip weight. I added 3/4 oz and will check next time I’m out.
Might try and get the OB stab down a tad.

Guys I really appreciate all the input. It’s been awhile and I dusting off the brain cells.

Going searching for that trim chart. 🥴

[Paul Taylor]

  Note my addendum - if it is getting light in both directions, *add tipweight* until it is safe to fly, then, proceed with evening out the roll angle.  I apologize for missing the important bit on my first response.

      Brett

Thanks👍🏼😎

[Tim Wescott]

Going searching for that trim chart. 🥴

http://flyinglines.org/pw.trimflow1.html

[Ken Culbertson]

"tipweight" - in this case, you have to keep it alive long enough to get to a reasonable test. 

 

[Dan McEntee]

http://flyinglines.org/pw.trimflow1.html

   This needs to be pinned at the "At The Handle" section or someplace easy to find. It gets referred t a lot, so shouldn't it be on the forum!!??

    Type at you later,
    Dan McEntee

[Brett Buck]

   This needs to be pinned at the "At The Handle" section or someplace easy to find. It gets referred t a lot, so shouldn't it be on the forum!!??

    Type at you later,
    Dan McEntee

  In this case, the first thing is on the chart is to  "get the wings level* which is directly on point, because I can almost positively guarantee that they AREN'T right now, both rolled in all the time, and also not the same upright and inverted. There may be *additional* problems, but until you do that, you cannot address the others.

   Note that this also sounds like a hallmark example of "Twister Disease", where the excessive rudder offset can make the wings normally level even without enough tipweight, which will then show up in corners. Looking at the posted picture, it appears to have something like 1/2"-3/4" of rudder offset, which will generally cause nose-out sideslip and outboard roll (masking inadequate tip weight) until you start to maneuver, then it yaws closer to tangent, removing the sideslip and rolling the airplane inboard in either direction.

   But you don't dare do anything about that without adding adequate tip weight and getting the upright and inverted roll angle to match. If you just remove the rudder offset right now, it may not even safely fly level.

      Brett

[Paul Taylor]

The wing looks straight.  The stab looks like it's installed fairly well, but the stab itself looks warped, and in a direction that would make the plane roll to the inside when you're inverted.

You may be able to twist the stab straight with heat -- I'd try that first.  Expect that you'll have to keep at it.  The stab that came in the Twister kit that I built was heavy 3/16" wood of no particular distinction, and pretty close to A-grain (i.e. plain sawn).  If that's what you got in your kit, then it will just naturally want to warp.

If you can't get it to stay flat then start a new thread about just that subject -- you'll get about a bazillion suggestions for what to do about it, so you can pick and choose the one that most suits your fancy.  Most will involve replacing the stab, so be warned.

Will give it a closer look. Thanks

[Paul Taylor]

Ok. More photos.
I don’t have rudder offset, flaps seem solid and firm. I don’t have any Z bends and pushrod is a arrow shaft.
I looked down the wing and it looks straighter then the lumber at Lowes. 🤣

I will try and cut the stab and level it out. And check for warp.

Question - with the OB stab being a tad up would it not cause the plane to roll out?

Again thanks for all the help. 

[Dan Berry]

Question - with the OB stab being a tad up would it not cause the plane to roll out?

Again thanks for all the help.

Stab parallel to the wing is REAL important.  If the inboard stab tip is high , down elevator will roll it toward you.
To get it levelled you can slice the fuselage under the stab and cram some 1/64 ply (or less) into the cut and wick some thin Cya into it.
 

[Motorman]

It's hard to tell over the internet but, looks like the inboard wing is twisted up a little in that picture.

[Tim Wescott]

I will try and cut the stab and level it out. And check for warp.

WHOA!  Slow down!  This is why I suggested you start another thread -- I'm going to give some direction, and then this thread is going to get totally sidetracked in "how to unbend a bent airplane".

You don't need to cut the stab out unless it is either hopelessly warped or hopelessly tilted.

"Hopelessly" meaning that you've tried straightening it using heat, and definitely failed.

I've straightened tilted stabs on profiles where one tip was as much as 1/4" higher than the other, by getting the fuselage good and warm ("warm" is like hot, only the 'coat or paint isn't melting yet -- "I can still hold it without yelling" isn't warm enough), then twisting it in the opposite direction about as much as the original twist, then holding it there until everything cools down.  It takes a long time, because you want the heat to penetrate into the wood, and if you've fiberglassed the fuselage you want whatever resin you used in the 'glass to soften a bit.  So you need to warm it up slowly, get it good and warm (really, the hotter the better, unless things are melting off the plane, turning brown, bubbling, or catching on fire).

It can be done.

I'd try that first, because it's much less invasive (unless you scorch the paint -- big bubbly brown marks counts as "invasive").  If you just can't get it to work (which has also happened to me), then take Mr. Berry's advise and cut & wedge.  (And, if you cut & wedge and miss by a hair, you can probably bring it the rest of the way with heat).

Note that sometimes they'll settle back in the direction of the warp or tilt -- just keep at it.  Usually if I can get it to move at all, repeated treatments will eventually see it settling down where I want it to be.

Ditto any warp in the tail feathers.  For it to work you probably need the heat to extend into the wood, and if the wood is cupped then you'll probably have a fight on your hands -- I'd aim for the left and right tips to be level with the stab root, and just close my eyes to any cupping of the wood unless I wanted to rip the stab off and build a new one.

[Steve Helmick]

Hey Guys, need a little help.

I built a Electric Twister and in the process of setting it up.

Setup is a Hubin Timer, BA ESC, Cobra motor.
I had to change the program on the timer to Throttle mode because it would not allow me to adjust the RPM. Is that the correct selection?

The plane flys good in level flight and when the motor quits it glides in with little handle input.
When in flight I turned it over to inverted flight and it seem to come in and get light on the lines. Then when turning it back over to up right flight it really came in and went into free flight.
What are some things to check?
Thanks

It looks to me from the very first picture that the tip of the outboard flap is not on centerline of the wing TE. I've seen this on a few planes, and didn't expect it would be a good thing. Basically, the hinge slot was not centered in the wing TE or flap LE.  I have some doubts about hinge seals fixing that, but could easily be wrong, and I don't know what an easy solution would be, other than refraining from doing that on the next plane. Somebody will be along shortly to tell me I've got it all wrong, but I won't name names.  Steve

[Tim Wescott]

You're always wrong, Steve, that's why we like you so much.

Good catch -- I looked again, and I'm not seeing it.

I think you're right in that it it's not a good thing.  It'll probably cause similar oddities to fixing a warped wing with a fixed roll tab.

This is guessing, but I'm guessing that if you get the plane visibly un-warped, then you ought to iron out the remaining roll tendencies caused by that hingeline anomaly by tweaking the flaps.  Then you can either leave the flaps tweaked, or the next time that you de-warp the wing (which you will do, it's just how the wing is built) you can leave in a mild warp that'll let you de-tweak the flaps.

Certainly, if you're flying in Intermediate, getting that far with the plane will make it better than you, and you can concentrate on flying.

[Ken Culbertson]

It looks to me from the very first picture that the tip of the outboard flap is not on centerline of the wing TE.

I think that is an optical illusion.  I think the flap is a tad shorter than the wing BUT, now that my focus got put on that flap, it appears to be down some.  Ok, flaps go down but when they do the elevator goes up but the one in the picture is perfectly flat.

Go fly it.  See if any of this rambling is making things better.

Ken

I just has to play some more.  I loaded that 1st pix into a viewer and Steve wins - it is not centered.

[Paul Taylor]

Thanks guys for all the input. With all this brain power we will get this fix! 😂

Update: @Tim - I took a little heat and push the stab down a tad. ✅

@Steve - the flaps are straight and sealed to tight. The hinges are monokote, all the way. ✅

I added tip weight so I will try and get out to the field soon.
I have to stay home for about 8 days. I was exposed to Covid a few days ago. Hope we don’t catch it. 😖

[Brett Buck]

I added tip weight so I will try and get out to the field soon.
I have to stay home for about 8 days. I was exposed to Covid a few days ago. Hope we don’t catch it. 😖

     Do as you wish, of course, but I don't think there is any requirement to quarantine yourself unless you have symptoms - that's the case even here in New East Berlin (AKA Santa Clara County). You can also get free rapid antigen tests and know in about 1/2 hour.

     Brett

[Tim Wescott]

     Do as you wish, of course, but I don't think there is any requirement to quarantine yourself unless you have symptoms - that's the case even here in New East Berlin (AKA Santa Clara County). You can also get free rapid antigen tests and know in about 1/2 hour.

     Brett

I don't know what the current guidance is, but when things first eased off you were fine as long as any two of these three applied: outside, masked, vaccinated.

You can probably add "stuck a swab up your nose and only had one stripe appear" to that list.

[Paul Taylor]

I’m in Florida and our future President has lifted all restrictions.
I’m fully vax’ed as I trust my personal doctor’s advice. I just don’t want to pass this on if I’m infected.

But my biggest concern is my daughter in law and my future grandson. 😎
I want to shield the family and friends.

I personally know people that died from Covid. 🥺

[Doug Moisuk]

Is this what your looking for?

[Dan McEntee]

Is this what your looking for?

    Paull just posted that in the last day or so in the Stunt Design section and has it pinned to the top of the section.
   THANKS PAUL!!
    Dan McEntee

[Paul Taylor]

Is this what your looking for?

Thanks!
Yea I found it doing a search. Now it’s pinned where I had access. 😎

[Paul Taylor]

    Paull just posted that in the last day or so in the Stunt Design section and has it pinned to the top of the section.
   THANKS PAUL!!
    Dan McEntee

👍🏼

[Doug Moisuk]

This is the simpler version.

[MikeyPratt]

Hi Guy’s,
What gets me is why wasn’t the surfaces checked be for test flights began?  Every Twister or Banshee I’ve ever know or seen needed at least an 3/4 ounce of tip weight, so three flats of SIg weights, 2 tenths for the tip weight box = almost 1 ounce of tip weight.  A preflight of the bench trimming process should be done before test flying the model, Period!

1) Triple check each control surface to make sure they are not warped or out of alignment
2) Make sure the stab & elevator are properly aligned
3) hook up the controls as shown on the plan, you can always make changes later, make sure you have equal control throw and adjust to get it there.
4) Seal the hinge lines flap &elevator before flying
5) Set rudder off set a small amount, what’s show on the plans is too much, at most start with 3/32”.
6) Set the CG as close as you can to the location shown on the plans, or slightly more CG forward, again you can change it later if needed.
7) Line length start at 60’ C to C.
The lap times should be somewhere between 5.1 to 5.5

You want to give yourself every advantage for successful first flights, set lap times after a few flights once your satisfied it’s flying good without ant weird things happening.  Now more unto Paul’s flow chard to fine tune it from that point.

Later,
Mikey

[Paul Taylor]

Hi Guy’s,
What gets me is why wasn’t the surfaces checked be for test flights began?  Every Twister or Banshee I’ve ever know or seen needed at least an 3/4 ounce of tip weight, so three flats of SIg weights, 2 tenths for the tip weight box = almost 1 ounce of tip weight.  A preflight of the bench trimming process should be done before test flying the model, Period!

Why would you assume I did not check and recheck before I put the finish on a plane? I Did a bench trim too.
I know people have built some beautiful stunters and discovered a misalignment after a few flights.  Billy W. being one. It’s recorded on one of Bob Hunt tapes.

If you read the entire thread the misalignment was not much on the stab and not much was need to drop it 1/8 of a inch.
Most people here are quick to help and slow to judge.
Good day Sir.

[Ken Culbertson]

I cut 1/8

Every Twister or Banshee I’ve ever know or seen needed at least an 3/4 ounce of tip weight,

I don't know why I didn't mention that as soon as I saw the 1/4oz post.  On my fancherized one I extended the wing one half rib on each side and made my outboard flap 1/8" larger, actually I cut 1/8 off of the inboard.  I ended up with 1 1/2 oz. tip weight.  The unequal flaps let you carry a bit more.  The tip weight is one thing that will have the same symptoms upright as inverted.  I don't know why I missed that.  Brett touched on it. My first plane when I came back after 30+ years in the wilderness was an ARF Nobler.  I got it in the mail 2 days before our club's 1st contest of the year and literally threw it together so I could enter.  I got there late and didn't have time for a test flight.  It took off and did what yours did.  Totally unflyable.  My first flight and first official after coming back was a whopping 56.  Turned out that the factory forgot the tip weight.  I had zero.  That plane turned out to be an excellent flier.

Ken

[Dennis Toth]

Ken,
What trim adjustments did you do to the ARF Nobler to get it in final trim?

Best,     DennisT

[Paul Taylor]

Not sure what Ken did, but I pranged mine at the Paducah contest. Jim Lynch helped me build my first Nobler cowel and put real motor mounts in it. It was a great flyer and it was my go to plane when I needed a confidence boost.
Hind sight is 20/20, I wish I would have kept it.

[Ken Culbertson]

Ken,
What trim adjustments did you do to the ARF Nobler to get it in final trim?

Best,     DennisT

Actually it took very little.  I got one of the three that they made without a warped wing   I didn't even need a trim tab.
Bench:
* Added some area to the rudder, about 3 square inches but no offset.  Mostly it was go give it the Gieseke look.
* Replaced the ARF controls, all of them, with a Morris set.
* Changed the flap ratio to 2:3.  Stock Noblers have way too much flap for my liking.
* Added 1 degree down thrust.
* Sealed the flaps and Elevator
Field:
* First was the tip weight.  It took just over 1oz to make it right.  Less than the twister needed which is weird.
* Moved the CG back till it started to hunt then moved it back fwd.  That one was rock steady, no hunting, I think that I accidently got it lined
   up straight. 
* Leadouts were 3/4" behind CG
* I had to add 1 turn of up elevator to even the turn rates and that is all I ever had to do.  I just flew the Cr** out of it.

I was done trimming in three flights and it flew like a real stunt plane.  I flew it in classic for a couple of years (local allows ARFs) and even placed a few times even without the appearance points. I had just converted it to electric when it got vaporized in our house fire.

[MikeyPratt]

Why would you assume I did not check and recheck before I put the finish on a plane? I Did a bench trim too.
I know people have built some beautiful stunters and discovered a misalignment after a few flights.  Billy W. being one. It’s recorded on one of Bob Hunt tapes.

If you read the entire thread the misalignment was not much on the stab and not much was need to drop it 1/8 of a inch.
Most people here are quick to help and slow to judge.
Good day Sir.
[/quot

Paul,
I’m sure you checked everything before you covered it.  But that is the reason that the bench trimming be done before the first flight.  You have to look at everything with a very critical eye and be honest with yourself, is that the way it should be, is that stab tilt O.K at being 1/8” off, did I warp the flap when I shrunk the hinges and that caused the end of the outboard tip of the flap to move upward (see photo of misaligned flap in your first photo).

Are the controls hooked up properly or are you trying to get a 2 to 1 ratio (2 elevated to 1 flap)?  Note:  Pushrod from the bell-crank should go to the top hole of the flap horn.  The pushrod from the flap should be in the third hole from the top, the same amount on the elevator (it’s best to measure from the center of the flap horn wire to the center of the hole on the control horn, make sure they are the same on both the flap & elevator).  I’m sorry if you took my suggestions the wrong way, but I was really trying to help.

Good Luck,
Mikey

[Paul Taylor]

Ok Mikey.

Just so many trolls in the internet now a days it just gives me a short fuse sometimes.
Not calling you a troll. ✌️🙂

It’s all good. 😎

[phil c]

Thanks👍🏼😎

Going by the front view pic the stab appears to be tilted to the right(on the plane) at least 1/2-3/4 in.
The fin/rudder may have a slight tip to the right also.

After getting the plane to stay on the lines on both inside and outside loops then start fiddling with the line sweep, CG, and warps.  Too little line sweep(rel. to CG) will make the plane turn in.  Too much will make it drop the outboard wing hard.  Double check where the CG actually is on the wing also.  The further it is from the calculated spot (25% of the average chord) the more problems the plane will have.  For starters, it's hard to get the plane so nose heavy it won't fly decently.