Electric finishing ???

[jim gilmore]

I have not been reading all the threads lately due to some computer problems i have gone through,
I'm wondering what the current method of finishing electric models is that does not require dope ?
If there is a better place o ask or way of wording my question feel free to mov or adjust my question.
Thank you in advance.

[Mike Griffin]

Hi Jim

Are you wanting to use some sort of plastic type covering like Ultracote or do you want to prepare the solid balsa surfaces for paint?  What do you want to use on open bays?

Thanks
Mike

[john e. holliday]

Go spend some time reading in the finishing section of this forum.   I have been doing a water base point on a new plane that will get rustoleum for color.    Then there is the automotive colors if you have a spray system.

[Tim Wescott]

Whatever else you do, if you're going to fly around people who use glow motors I highly recommend that you use a finish that's resistant to exhaust fog and the occasional accidental splash of fuel.  That rules out a lot of uncatalyzed water-based top coats, unfortunately.

[Fred Cronenwett]

I fly with electric power and use the Worldtex iron on fabric from Balsa USA, then use primer (spray can) from Lowes and then buy Latex house paint. After the paint is dry then put on whatever clear coat you are comfortable with to give it a shine. The worldtex covering comes in several colors but also the NATURAL color which can be covered with primer then paint.

I like the Latex house paint because I can get it mixed to any color I want and the cost is much lower than other paint. Electric models do not have to be fuel proof. The RC guys who fly the gasoline powered models have been using Latex house paint for years.

Fred

[Dennis Toth]

Jim,
Although you can use just about any finish material you like for electric you should watch the total weight. The biggest impact on weight with electric is the battery. Since there isn't to much you can do for a reasonable price on battery choice, finish is the next big weight hit. A couple ways to approach this, simple is cover the wings and tail surface with film then paint the fuse and trim. If you are very careful with the film you can get a very respectable finish at very low weight. You could also do the whole thing in film but doing the fuse can take a bit to get comfortable with.

If you want to paint good old Brodak or Sig dope will be the lightest, good thing is you can buff it out and not need to do "death paint" and it will resist problems from IC guys as Tim said. Check out the Windy videos on YouTube for how to finish with dope.

Best,           DennisT   

[Crist Rigotti]

As far as I know, there really no difference in top notch finishes between electric and nitro.

[John Sunderland]

I have not been reading all the threads lately due to some computer problems i have gone through,
I'm wondering what the current method of finishing electric models is that does not require dope ?
If there is a better place o ask or way of wording my question feel free to mov or adjust my question.
Thank you in advance.

I have not finished an electric model, but weight issues are the same for either IC or E power plants. If you are not attending the Nats with serious intentions, monocote it. Make up 5 to 10 points with your flying skills and lack of fiddling with the motor run to suit the conditions. Im going electric...soon.

[Crist Rigotti]

Jim,
Although you can use just about any finish material you like for electric you should watch the total weight. The biggest impact on weight with electric is the battery. Since there isn't to much you can do for a reasonable price on battery choice, finish is the next big weight hit. A couple ways to approach this, simple is cover the wings and tail surface with film then paint the fuse and trim. If you are very careful with the film you can get a very respectable finish at very low weight. You could also do the whole thing in film but doing the fuse can take a bit to get comfortable with.

If you want to paint good old Brodak or Sig dope will be the lightest, good thing is you can buff it out and not need to do "death paint" and it will resist problems from IC guys as Tim said. Check out the Windy videos on YouTube for how to finish with dope.

Best,           DennisT   

Dennis has it right.  I Monokote my wings, stab, flaps, and elevators, and use Sig dope on the fuse, fin, and rudder.  17 points at the NATS one year.  With Monokote or Ultracoat, you can control the weight of the finish.  I've built many c/L airplanes with this method and I can calculate the weight of the finish on the film covered finishes to within a few grams before I even start construction.  BTW, I figure Monokote weighs 1 gram for 8.5 square inches of wing area.  With electric, the film finishes stay looking like new years later because there is no oil seepage.