Dupli Color Paints

[Mike Griffin]

For those of you who have used Dupli Color Paints, which one do you need to use? Their Premium Enamel Line?

Thanks

Mike

[EddyR]

All there lacquer paints are fuel proof. EXCEPT the clear coat in not EXHAUST proof. Over several months the clear on my Tempest got soft. I still use all there paints but I use regular clear dope as the top coat. DC is compatible  with all brands of clear
EddyR

[Kim Mortimore]

All there lacquer paints are fuel proof. EXCEPT the clear coat in not EXHAUST proof. Over several months the clear on my Tempest got soft. I still use all there paints but I use regular clear dope as the top coat. DC is compatible  with all brands of clear
EddyR

A friend of mine tested many rattlecan clears and found DC enamel clear to be the most fuelproof.  He uses it on fuselages and tails.  I would be surprised if an enamel is flexible enough to use on open bays.  Based on what Eddy R says, I wonder if DC lacquer could be used over polyspan on open bays with clear undercoat but not topcoat to achieve a dopeless finish.  Eddy, how is the DC odor in terms of intensity and long-lastingness, compared with dope.  Thanks.   

[EddyR]

Kim
 DC has a different smell than dope. All so it doesn't have that auto body shop smell I remember from long ago. The DC clear is none shrink and that is the reason I use it as it will not pull fillets. The clear has a very strong smell. The spray cans have very little smell. I do not think the clear  it is as flexable as clear dope. A few years ago I tried several clear poly products and they were fuelproof but not exhaust resistant. The DC clear seems to stick very well,no lifting when using masking tape on it.
Ed       I forgot to add I have had no fading and it is very bright. The quart cans need no thinning but you should have a light color base under then. Light orange under DC red will dazell you

[Mike Griffin]

If you have a nitrate base coat and want to use Dupli Color paint over the Nitrate, do you need to use a lacquer or enamel DC paint?  I am trying to find out what base in a paint you can use over clear Nitrate or Butyrate dope without getting a reaction of some sort.

Thanks

Mike

[Mike Griffin]

Ed I meant to tell you that is a beautiful finish on your plane

Mike

[EddyR]

I would never use dope or lacquer with enamel. DC seems to be a version of lacquer. Some people use enamel paint as a top coat and get away with it. Lacquer will not go over enamel. I don't use Enamel as it is just laying on top of the base,it is not chemically attached to it. Dope and lacquer bind them selves together. One thing I found the hard way is DC spray cans do not attach well to some types of spray can primers.The problem may have been the primer. The primer I had the problem with was a glossy primer. It had no edge or bite. Grey or silver seem to be the best blocking color to use before the color goes on.
Ed

[Larry Cunningham]

Great looking Juno, Ed!

Fine work.

L.

"You cannot acquire experience by making experiments. You cannot create experience. You must undergo it." -Albert Camus

[John Miller]

Mike, I've used DupliColor paints , in the spary cans. I believe they are some form of laquer, or at the least dope tolerant. I've used their spray on primer, with dope under, and later over with out problems. I no longer use Nitrate on my planes, but when I did, I always applied a coat of Butyrate over before applying any other paint.

I found, in the case of the rattle cans, that it applied nicely, adhered well, and dried relativly fast, allowing me to mask and apply several colors in a day. I've found that it will adhere to a degree to plastic films, but over time, the fuel seems to get to it.

I've never tried their clear coat. instead, I've used clear Butyrate over. I found that the first coat should be a dusting, or dry coat or you may get some sort of dappleing of the finish with some colors. After one or two of these dust coats, and allowed to dry, it seems OK to apply a nice wet coat, or more,to finish off.

Of course yur milage may vary, but this has been my experience.

[Mike Griffin]

Thanks guys for taking the time to answer this.  I appreciate it.  There are so many possibiiities  and I have had trouble with chemcial reactions in the past.  i am trying to alleviate that problem.

Mike

[Jim Kraft]

Way back in the late 60's, I finished this Spinks Acromaster with the then new polyester finshing resin. I then proceded to finish it with DupliColor spray cans. It really turned out well, and after rubbing it out had that unmistakable laquer sheen to it. Then it was put on display in a downtown display window for a few weeks. When I went to pick it up it had all kinds of spider webbing and crasing in the paint. I never new if it was the finishing resin, or the fact that the Duplicolor was not plasticised. I am guessing it works OK with dope under over. It is nice stuff to use.

[Kim Mortimore]

...I've used DupliColor paints , in the spray cans...I found, in the case of the rattle cans, that it applied nicely, adhered well, and dried relativly fast, allowing me to mask and apply several colors in a day....

John,
Did you use it on open bay wings?
Thanks

[John Miller]

Yes, I did. I used it last on my Torino. It worked out pretty good for me.

[John Miller]

Sorry about the above post. I meant attache a photo of the Torino, but wound up with one of the motor mounts instead. Whenever I tried to remove  the picture, the software would lock up and not let me do so.

[Bill Little]

Up until the very recent past, I could go into Auto Zone and pick from three distinctly different Duplicolor products.  The "Lacquer T,V, and SUV, an acrylic automotive lacquer, their "Lacquer" spray cans Very different label, their Acrylic ENAMEL (which is too heavy), and their Paint Shop series of pre- thinned Acrylic "VOC" Compliant Lacquer in quart cans only.  Paint Shop only comes in the quarts.  It has been our paint of choice for colors.  Mail Order is the only way I can get dope of any kind, now.

For the final clear I use Sig Lite Coat or Dupont Chromaclear (automotive urethane).

Oh, yeah, Mike, all my substrate is done in Randolph's Tinted Non Tautening NITRATE up through attaching silkspan, polyspan, Jap Tissue, silk, or CF veil.  The butyrate only comes in to shrink the open bays (Sig Super Coat Clear) and for sealer and mixing zinc sterate filler (Sig Lite Cote Clear) or the final clear coats.

Big Bear
P.S. I really enjoyed the phone chat today.