Glue that sands well

[Mike Griffin]

Since Ambroid is gone and Sigment is scarce, has anyone found a glue that will sand well like the Ambroid used to?

Mike

[Trostle]

Mike,

If you are talking about using a glue for planking, I would recommend you do what you have to do to get the Sig Sigment.  It is not as strong as Ambroid, but it does a better job at sanding so that ridges are not formed at the planking edges.  And the Sigment is fairly compatible with most of the finishes you might want to apply.  And definitely avoid using CA for any planking.  (No matter how carefully you sand after the planking is complete, you will sand balsa away from the CA joint and have a CA ridge left making it very difficult to contour the surface properly.)

Keith

[Mike Keville]

DUCO cement!  Holds (and sands) very well.  Just be sure to pre-glue each assembly.

[Mike Griffin]

Keith and Mike.  Thank you.. that is exactly what I was thinking about. (Planking).....I will see If I can order some Sigment.. My LHS said the last couple of times they ordered it from SIG, they back ordered him.  I will call SIG direct tomorrow and see if they have some...

Mike

[Mike Keville]

Sig-ment is a great product.  I hope you can find some, either at Sig Mfg. or elsewhere.

Failing that, go to your nearest Ace Hardware and load-up on Duco.

[Mike Griffin]

Will do.. thanks guys..

[Douglas Ames]

Since Ambroid is gone and Sigment is scarce, has anyone found a glue that will sand well like the Ambroid used to?

Mike

Ambroid is still around, you just have to scrounge for it. Several sources, Google -  "Ambroid Cement 3.2 oz."

[Dick Pacini]

Several of those links that came up on a Google search show unavailable or out of stock.  I found some on Ebarf and just bought 4 tubes.

[Bootlegger]

  Mike, I am like Mike K, I use a lot of Duco cement, it holds well and sands well also. Plus I find it locally at Family Dollar stores as well as Ace Hardware, I think that you will like the way it works.

[John Park]

Folks:

Does anyone, apart from me, still use that powdered resin woodworking glue that used to be sold as CASCAMITE or EXTRAMITE in Britain?  I think it's still available under the name of POLYMITE.  I use it for laminating wing and tail tip outlines for my free-flight models, and Claus Maikis has recommended it for glueing up radial cowls for his elegant stunters.  Both he and I find that it 'sands like balsa', and it's very easy to use - you simply mix the powder with water to the consistency you require.  I like it fairly watery for my laminations, but I mix it a bit thicker if I want it to have a bit of 'grab'.  It's also extremely economical - I bought a 4oz. tub of EXTRAMITE about fifteen years ago, and there's still some left, even though I always seem to mix up more than I need!  Definitely worth a try.

Regards
John

[Bruce Shipp]

Mike, I have seen you mention pre-glue several times, and I understand the concept in general, but exactly how do you do it? 
Ow much glue on each piece and how long do you have to let it dry before you assemble the parts?  I keep thinking that you would double your build time doing this so I am guessing I am missing some part of the concept.

Thanks, 
Bruce

[Mike Keville]

In answer to Reply #10, above:

Since balsa is very porous, cements like Duco, Ambroid, et al tend to soak right in, creating a weak bond.  Therefore we apply a first coat - just a dab - to each piece being joined, rubbing it in with a finger.  Drying time is short - 5 minutes or less.  This 'seals' the surface.  Then apply a 2nd coat and assemble the pieces.

I'm pretty sure someone could explain this better.  

[john e. holliday]

Mike got it right.  Coat both surfaces and let dry.  Another coat on one surface and assemble.  Sterling used to stress this in the construction of the early kits.

[Jim Kraft]

I do double glue in high stress areas, but on planking I just put on a generous amount on one edge and on the former, then put it together. The planes I have done this on are close to 15 years old and not a crack anywhere. I like to sand across the glue joint to start with to remove any surface glue before final sanding. Sigment is great glue as has been stated and like Mike said Duco is a close second. I never liked Ambroid on any surface with a clear or translucent finish, as it will bleed through orange. Really bad on cloth hinges.

[Tim Wescott]

I keep thinking that you would double your build time doing this so I am guessing I am missing some part of the concept.

First, you should be spending way more time fitting than actually gluing (unless you're blessed with a laser cut kit).

Second, you develop a rhythm: fit part 1, pre-glue part 1, fit part 2, glue part 1, preglue part 2, fit part 3, repeat...

CA is faster, but I find that when I use CA that I tend to get into the whole "go fast" spirit way too much and I build things crooked as a consequence.  When I'm using slower glues I tend to eyeball fits more often, and find the problems before the glue goes on.

[gwassenaar]

having read the whole thread, permit me to point out that PVA glue and Titebond are still around?

They work miracles for planking. They dry a bit slower so  parts have to be fixed better. The Titebond glue sands allright though and is well worth the effort.

[Tim Wescott]

I just re-read your original post.

My LHS has ambroid on the shelf, and they mail order.  Do you want their phone #?

[Bob Reeves]

I use Titebond for everything I don't use epoxy or CA on and have never had trouble sanding it. Only thing I think Ambroid is good for is temporary joints, especially the new stuff. To each his own....

[John Cralley]

Folks:

Does anyone, apart from me, still use that powdered resin woodworking glue that used to be sold as CASCAMITE or EXTRAMITE in Britain?  I think it's still available under the name of POLYMITE.  I use it for laminating wing and tail tip outlines for my free-flight models, and Claus Maikis has recommended it for glueing up radial cowls for his elegant stunters.  Both he and I find that it 'sands like balsa', and it's very easy to use - you simply mix the powder with water to the consistency you require.  I like it fairly watery for my laminations, but I mix it a bit thicker if I want it to have a bit of 'grab'.  It's also extremely economical - I bought a 4oz. tub of EXTRAMITE about fifteen years ago, and there's still some left, even though I always seem to mix up more than I need!  Definitely worth a try.

Regards
John

John, I found this on Amazon US which appears to be the same (a UREA FORMALDEHYDE POLYMER):
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001003J16/ref=asc_df_B001003J162506718?smid=A1QTD1JR6DNCXK&tag=dealtmp892590-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395105&creativeASIN=B001003J16

With shipping it comes to $11.18 for me in Central Illinois

[Dick Pacini]

I just bought 4 tubes of Ambroid from this source:

www.MFPilot.com

[Ward Van Duzer]

This is getting old... Must be the fourth or fifth post.

http://www.lmii.com/products/finishing/adhesives/instrument-makers-glue


Ward-O

[Steve Fitton]

This is getting old... Must be the fourth or fifth post.

http://www.lmii.com/products/finishing/adhesives/instrument-makers-glue


Ward-O

Is that what Pica Glueit was?

[Ward Van Duzer]

Can't say for sure, but probly close. The dif between regular white glues and Luthiers white is that the instrument glue hardens to carry the resonance. Regular whites stay soft to be flexible. Hence the little balls of glue in your paper!

W.

[Dick Pacini]

The 4 tubes of Ambroid I ordered a few days ago came in the mail today.