stunthanger.com
General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Randy Ryan on April 30, 2013, 07:29:11 PM
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USE THIS STUFF!!!!!!!!!
I thought I found some good stuff, after all it's 3M. Well, as you can see, it lifted as the paint dried and I had to rub it down quickly before each coat, that sorta worked. You'd think it would have been easy to remove but it left nearly all its glue behind. I remove masking with a little heat so I thought maybe that was it, but cold it did the same thing. Its going to take me hours to clean the glue off before I can finish the trim and shoot clear. I thought I'd do the clear this weekend but that's not going to happen.
Other then this its going OK, I have some blush as you can see but the clear will take care of that.
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Well, it's listed as Low-Medium adhesion for delicate surfaces so you'd think it would work, but...
Did you wipe down the base coat first to clean off any oils or residue? How old is the tape?
I've never had it lift like that but I have had bleed-thru at the edges which is why I use the Green stuff...carefully.
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Use "Naptha" on a rag and wipe the residue off. (That's lighter fluid)
Works great on all tape glue.
Good luck, Jerry
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Well, it's listed as Low-Medium adhesion for delicate surfaces so you'd think it would work, but...
Did you wipe down the base coat first to clean off any oils or residue? How old is the tape?
I've never had it lift like that but I have had bleed-thru at the edges which is why I use the Green stuff...carefully.
Brand new fresh tape. Base coat was perfectly clean. This glue is very soft. Mineral spirits cuts it but it take a while to get it all off. AS Jerry suggested, Naptha may do a better job. Still gonna take hours to clean this up and go on to the finish, it has to be completely gone and I've got bursts on wings stab and rudder, panel on the bottom. Not real happy right now, I'm going back to the blue I've used for years without incident.
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If Randy R says its a crappy product, it probably is. There's very little anyone here could tell him about painting and finishing a model.
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Most ( if not all) tape listed as "painters" tape, is generally formulated for latex, or at best oil based household paint. the adhesive will not like lacquer solvents or basecoat auto solvents.
not to mention soft stick adhesive will not resist the shrinkage that dope has inherant in it,,
best bet,, spring for the 4 $ a roll automotive tape that is designed for the job,,
my two cents worth
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I had a similar issue with this stuff.
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You can use low tack plastic shelving material if you don't flood the color.
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Maybe you got a bad roll because I use this stuff all the time and I love it. That and you may have gone a little heavy with the first coats of paint...
I use it some for masking and a lot for back masking.
Derek
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Brand new fresh tape. Base coat was perfectly clean. This glue is very soft. Mineral spirits cuts it but it take a while to get it all off. AS Jerry suggested, Naptha may do a better job. Still gonna take hours to clean this up and go on to the finish, it has to be completely gone and I've got bursts on wings stab and rudder, panel on the bottom. Not real happy right now, I'm going back to the blue I've used for years without incident.
Randy,
Next time you need masking material, go to your local sign shop instead of Home Depot. Ask to purchase a "short roll" of masking material. My guess, you'll leave with stuff for free.
I've suggested this on plenty of Forums, including this one, a dozen times. Probably more.
There's an "Industry" of professionals out there that mask and paint every day. They use certain products for different applications for reasons. Some of these guys operate out of Automobile Body Shops, as I did for 40 years!!! I had over 90 accounts, where I went intermittenly, to who ever called and needed me, to perform tasks that involved just about everything related to the automotive, bike, van, aircraft and graphics industry using paint products.
Walk into a shop that does "Custom Painting" on show cars, hot rods, painted graphics, etc. You can tell by the cars parked around the place. Or ask, they'll know where to send you.
These guys will talk to you. And you'll get the correct information about what professionals are using.
You'll walk away with some serious knowledge about products that you can rely on. And they are all available to the public and hobbiest.
This stuff isn't sold in some black market.
Charles
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I have been using (last 3 projects) the yellow version (Delicate Surface) of Frog Tape on dope projects with great results.
Your 2080EL looks to be a similar type of product.
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I used this same stuff, Edge Lock, thinking this will be great! I spent hours getting left over residue off the plane!!! ARRRGGGHHH!! And I dont use dope.
I will be doing as Mark says and stopping by the auto paint store to get the right stuff.
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I got a roll of that tape that worked horribly even for its intended purpose, house interior painting. Did not stick to the walls, edges lifted, yet it left residue that in some spots has defied all attempts at removal. I hurled the remainder of the roll out into the woods lest I be tempted to use it again.
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I used this same stuff, Edge Lock, thinking this will be great! I spent hours getting left over residue off the plane!!! ARRRGGGHHH!! And I dont use dope.
I will be doing as Mark says and stopping by the auto paint store to get the right stuff.
They do have "special stuff" that removes adhesive residue. Removes the stuff in minutes. Probably get that at the same store. 3M is one brand.
I buy my stuff by the gallon from sign suppliers. I'm always removing "aged" vinyl lettering and have to clean off the residue.
Charles
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Well apparently I am the only person that this stuff works for...
I just used some yesterday to back mask the blue paint. I lay it over the blue then use a razor blade to cut along the edge.
Derek
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Well apparently I am the only person that this stuff works for...
I just used some yesterday to back mask the blue paint. I lay it over the blue then use a razor blade to cut along the edge.
Derek
Derek,
its very difficult to argue with your success,,
but then, you know me ,, I will,,, S?P S?P
Just like I do with spray guns, thinner and a myriad of other "painting" related items,, I recomend the product I have used and know will work with minimal issue,,
you make it work,, others may also,, My guess is that you have a fine touch when it comes to painting ( as your end results bear out)
many others do not have that experience,, so thats why I shy away from this sort of product,, ( as well as non branded thinners and cheap spray guns
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Derek,
its very difficult to argue with your success,,
but then, you know me ,, I will,,, S?P S?P
Just like I do with spray guns, thinner and a myriad of other "painting" related items,, I recomend the product I have used and know will work with minimal issue,,
you make it work,, others may also,, My guess is that you have a fine touch when it comes to painting ( as your end results bear out)
many others do not have that experience,, so thats why I shy away from this sort of product,, ( as well as non branded thinners and cheap spray guns
I agree Mark.
Maybe I have just been lucky. With the problems other people are having I will be cautious when using this tape in the future.
Derek
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They do have "special stuff" that removes adhesive residue. Removes the stuff in minutes. Probably get that at the same store. 3M is one brand.
I buy my stuff by the gallon from sign suppliers. I'm always removing "aged" vinyl lettering and have to clean off the residue.
Charles
Do you have a name for the special stuff?
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Thanks guys for your replies. I wasn't necessarily looking for advice, as some of you know I experiment, so while I'm a little annoyed, I also only have myself to blame. This tape wasn't inexpensive, but the fact that is had no wrinkles in it impressed me so I decided to try it. Lesson learned, I will spend the time it takes to de-muck the thing and get on to the other trim which will be done with masking materials I know and have used allot. Then on to clear.
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We have a product in the UK called "sticky stuff remover" it really works - it is almost like magic!!
You must have something similar in the land of the Free home of the bold<G>
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Mark,
What masking tape do you use? I used to have tons of the 3m green masking tape that worked great. I got several rolls from a car painter. But its all gone now. I have been using the 3m blue from Home Depot/Lowes and it was ok, then the edgelock came out and it was a disaster.
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I use the green 3M automotive painters tape... although I have played with some yellow tape my buddy got ( for automotive paint work) but I dont know what it is..
the green tape is available at any paint supply store, I would guess its also available through TCP global online,,
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Do you have a name for the special stuff?
Doug,
This is a sign industry product that is available from many distributors that sell to the sign industry.
Fellers, is one and Beacon Graphics, is another distributor.
Google, and my guess there's a dozen or more.
Charles
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obviously, the GOAL is to avoid having to use any solvent on your newly painted surface, it will cause problems,, ( its a crap shoot whether you will see them or not,, ) any solvent introduced to a new painted surface, especially lacquer, has the potential to lift, shrink, or swell, depending upon the material,, please be very carefull when using a solvent, especially adhesive removers , on fresh paint,,
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Most ( if not all) tape listed as "painters" tape, is generally formulated for latex, or at best oil based household paint. the adhesive will not like lacquer solvents or basecoat auto solvents.
not to mention soft stick adhesive will not resist the shrinkage that dope has inherant in it,,
best bet,, spring for the 4 $ a roll automotive tape that is designed for the job,,
my two cents worth
...There's your answer on why it lifted. :-\
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Thanks guys for your replies. I wasn't necessarily looking for advice, as some of you know I experiment, so while I'm a little annoyed, I also only have myself to blame. This tape wasn't inexpensive, but the fact that is had no wrinkles in it impressed me so I decided to try it.
If the "green automotive tape" that Mark is referring to is what I think it is, it has no wrinkles. It's a smooth plastic tape that doesn't go down with the guaranteed bleed-through that crepe tape (the wrinkled stuff) gives you. (It will give you bleed through, if you're not careful. It's just better than wrinkled-up paper tape). The stuff I have is "Scotch 3M 218 Fine Line Tape". It came from an automotive paint store in town. I'd be interested to know if that's what Mark uses.
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Fine Line is typically a semi-translucent pale green tape not really vinyl tape for masking edges, typically for fairly soft curves, it does not really like making tight corners, and it is smooth
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=2146
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/3m-scotch-fine-line-tapes-p-11370.aspx?gclid=CNvsmfiU9rYCFeU5Qgods3IA0w
for tighter corners, as in say flames, or sharp curves I use a vinyl tape, nominally between 1/8 and 1/4 " wide. It is soft, smooth and sadly fairly thick. several brands out there, all are comparable with some minor nuances to seperate them. Lately I have been using an Orange version which I like simply because its easier to see when you are laying out your design,,
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/3m-vinyl-tape-471-blue-18-width-32-mm-36404-p-26891.aspx
here is the orange version
http://www.tcpglobal.com/KustomShop/ItemDetail.aspx?ItemNo=KUS+PSF118&gclid=CNeuuPSU9rYCFQSCQgodGnIA1A
the green tape I was refering to is a crepe tape
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/3m-scotch-automotive-refinish-masking-tape-233-sleeve-p-11367.aspx?gclid=CLWNvYqU9rYCFY9eQgod5BEADA
or this which I have tried lately, seems comparable to the above green
http://www.detailing.com/store/3m-automotive-refinish-masking-tape-06652-18mm-x-55m.html
used mostly for non critical edges,, or for masking away from the vinyl tape ( which actually forms the paint edge) while I have used crepe tape for actual paint edges, it is not the optimum..
for intricate designs, call up your local sign shop to have your design cut on MacTac or less desirable Gerber mask,, of course then you need to draw it in corel or Cad,,
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I have been removing tape residue for decades using rubber cement thinner. Hbby Lobby, Art supply stores, etc.. Bestine is the brand name. 16 oz. lasts me years. Will not disturb ink lines!
RO