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Author Topic: How glow plugs work  (Read 4547 times)

Offline Mark wood

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How glow plugs work
« on: June 07, 2024, 07:44:42 PM »
I've been trying to get one of these New Method lighters for quite some time. We had one when I was a kid and was always fascinated by them. They work on the same principals as our glow plugs do. The platinum wire reacts with the methanol alcohol gets hot. This is what occurs in our engines and it is also why you can connect a battery to the plug, get the engine started and as soon as you remove the battery the engine quits or runs really crummy. It does that because the wire has become contaminated on the surface and the platinum is no longer in contact with the methanol. If you are having troubles, look at the wire and if it isn't bright shiny silvery looking, its time to replace the plug.

Here's the video I made.


Life is good AMA 1488
Why do we fly? We are practicing, you might say, what it means to be alive...  -Richard Bach
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Offline Jeremy Chinn

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Re: How glow plugs work
« Reply #1 on: June 07, 2024, 07:58:03 PM »
Very cool. I knew the process/concept, but I’ve never seen a lighter like that.

Online Dan McEntee

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Re: How glow plugs work
« Reply #2 on: June 07, 2024, 08:34:20 PM »
    Hi Mark;
     You need to search the forum out about "taters" on glow plugs!!  One reason I like idle bar plugs is that it give carbon and other junk, like 'taters" a place to attach that can be cleaned off besides getting into the element. I have seen lots of carbon but never the "taters" that Brett and some others say they see when using certain fuels. They can be scraped off the idle bar also. With the scarcity of glow plugs these days, coupled with the cost, that is kind of important now. Today's elements are supposed to be an platinum alloy  with iridium in it?? I think this helps make the plugs last longer and work better. As you said, when I check a plug, I look for how shiny it looks and how the shape is. I think today's plugs might be a bit stronger and distort less, at least it seems like I don't see that hardly at all on my plugs or anyone else's. Heat range for a plug is dictated by the wire size and the size of the chamber that it is in. Bigger wire, wider hole means more methanol in contact and it gets hotter and holds the heat longer. I think I have have some old Arden glow plugs and I may have read that those were rebuildable?? I have never tried to take one apart yet. Plugs are interesting, but they for damn sure ain't all the same!!  Don't get me started on later generation Fox plugs!!
   What's needed now, is a reasonably priced substitute for the platinum/iridium element so ease the plug crisis!!
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  Dan McEntee
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Offline Mark wood

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Re: How glow plugs work
« Reply #3 on: June 08, 2024, 06:07:04 AM »
    Hi Mark;
     You need to search the forum out about "taters" on glow plugs!!  One reason I like idle bar plugs is that it give carbon and other junk, like 'taters" a place to attach that can be cleaned off besides getting into the element. I have seen lots of carbon but never the "taters" that Brett and some others say they see when using certain fuels. They can be scraped off the idle bar also. With the scarcity of glow plugs these days, coupled with the cost, that is kind of important now. Today's elements are supposed to be an platinum alloy  with iridium in it?? I think this helps make the plugs last longer and work better. As you said, when I check a plug, I look for how shiny it looks and how the shape is. I think today's plugs might be a bit stronger and distort less, at least it seems like I don't see that hardly at all on my plugs or anyone else's. Heat range for a plug is dictated by the wire size and the size of the chamber that it is in. Bigger wire, wider hole means more methanol in contact and it gets hotter and holds the heat longer. I think I have have some old Arden glow plugs and I may have read that those were rebuildable?? I have never tried to take one apart yet. Plugs are interesting, but they for damn sure ain't all the same!!  Don't get me started on later generation Fox plugs!!
   What's needed now, is a reasonably priced substitute for the platinum/iridium element so ease the plug crisis!!
  Type at you later,
  Dan McEntee

Yeah, I've seen that stuff but I haven't run fuel based models in the better part of 20 years with the exception of F1C free flight which I haven't done for 15 years. I'm around glow people though and most will do the, but it glows when I put the battery on it thing. I am a physicist / engineer and my thing is physics and engineering. Models are my outlet. to be the best pilot is not what I am. To improve technology of the models, that is me. When I'm presenting, I am showing what is in the world. I have been trying to find a reasonably priced New Method lighter for about 4 years and finally got one. The one in this video was from 1940 brand new in the package and I took it out, filled it, and broke its cherry simply to have an example of how our glow plugs work to help those whom don't quite get it.
Life is good AMA 1488
Why do we fly? We are practicing, you might say, what it means to be alive...  -Richard Bach
“Physics is like sex: sure, it may give some practical results, but that’s not why we do it.” – Richard P. Feynman

Offline Ty Marcucci

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Re: How glow plugs work
« Reply #4 on: June 08, 2024, 11:56:31 AM »
Back in 1982 a few of my ship mates bought some cigarete lighters from a store on Yokosuka, Japan,  that worked in the wind.. A thin wire was exposed to the wind through a small opening in the lighter and it got red hot.. I can only assume this was nichrome wire or such.  D>K
Ty Marcucci

Online Brett Buck

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Re: How glow plugs work
« Reply #5 on: June 08, 2024, 05:55:00 PM »
     You need to search the forum out about "taters" on glow plugs!!  One reason I like idle bar plugs is that it give carbon and other junk, like 'taters" a place to attach that can be cleaned off besides getting into the element. I have seen lots of carbon but never the "taters" that Brett and some others say they see when using certain fuels. They can be scraped off the idle bar also. With the scarcity of glow plugs these days, coupled with the cost, that is kind of important now.

    Taters are a real problem. The first time I had heard anything about them was from combat guys, using some sort of weird Ucon synthetic. But we all more-or-less forget about it for years, running 40/46VFs and the smaller PAs. When people starting running PA61s, the power would routinely degenerate over the period of 10's of flights, and when inspected, the glow plugs had blobs of something apparently melted to the element. Replace it (when they were 79 cents a piece) or scrape them, and it would work again, then degenerate. Everyone was running SIG at the time. To solve the issue we started experimenting with fuel, and quickly found that Powermaster (any grade) never developed taters, even after hundreds of flights.

     The power loss was absolutely enormous - I first started by replacing my 40VF with a PA61 that Bill Fitzgerald loaned me. First few flights were very disappointing, it clearly flew much better and had more line tension with the VF, and it was not a hard call. I was about to switch back when someone suggested I switch the plug. I took the current one out, and you almost couldn't see the wire, almost the entire cavity was filled up with this tan crap. Replaced and the next flight damn near pull my arm off. I went to some Team Trials with it, and after the first practice session it was back to no power again.

     The mechanism is unclear but in all cases, extreme heat was implicated. Combat planes obviously run at full power, but PA61s and above seem to run very hot in places - we never melted any pipes or had taters on 40VFs, but almost everyone who switched to PA61s immediately started having all sorts of heat-related problems. I assume it is due to the size. It is inevitable that smaller engines have larger surface areas per unit volume and 1/2As need high-nitro to even keep running most of the time and run very cool/inefficient. The PA61 is just idling in a stunt plane, but, it also is much harder to get the heat out of them due to the area/volume issue.

    The offending material causing the taters is also unknown. Randy tells us that it was the castor oil, but SIG and Powermaster have essentially the same amount of castor and one does it and one does not. For a while, "Aero-1" additive was suspected, but they form with SIG whether you use Aero-1 or not. My best guess is that it is the "anti-foaming agent" in SIG is the culprit. I base this on the fact that people who *add* Armor-All or other silicone-containing things like Rain-X to Powermaster suddenly start getting taters. If you look closely, the tater looks like a black plastic blob on the element, usually starting about halfway between the coil and the weld (and growing from there). If you scrape it, you can scrape off the black and underneath it is a (usually smooth) tan blob that looks like plastic has melted onto the wire.

    The theory is that it is getting hot enough to polymerize something in the fuel into a kind of plastic. On the coil itself, it gets hot enough to burn off, next to the body, it's too cool to form the polymer, in-between it has the ideal conditions and forms.

        The simple solution is to use Powermaster or some other fuel that doesn't cause the issue. I don't think we have to worry about SIG any more, but I have no idea if the off-brands have the same issue or not.

     Brett

Offline Dave_Trible

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Re: How glow plugs work
« Reply #6 on: June 08, 2024, 07:02:32 PM »
I ran Byrons fuel for a very long time and could encounter taters maybe once or twice a season.  I had a habit of just putting in a new plug before each contest so usually avoided any problem.  Now I mix all my fuel and due to the price and scarcity of good plugs I'm not so apt to chuck a good running plug.  I really have no idea why they form but I always suspected something about the castor oil.  There are things about castor I've never understood and can find very little info to explain.   Bakers AAA castor-who rates it it and how?  Degummed castor?  What?  The best answer I can find on that  'degummed' castor is simply the castor obtained from the first pressing of the beans to extract it.  They are pressed numerous times and the result is gummy castor-I guess.  I've bought castor from several different sources and can't really tell any difference .  Tators may not be the castor anyway but still would like to understand the stuff better ...



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Online Brett Buck

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Re: How glow plugs work
« Reply #7 on: June 08, 2024, 07:45:05 PM »
I ran Byrons fuel for a very long time and could encounter taters maybe once or twice a season.  I had a habit of just putting in a new plug before each contest so usually avoided any problem.  Now I mix all my fuel and due to the price and scarcity of good plugs I'm not so apt to chuck a good running plug.  I really have no idea why they form but I always suspected something about the castor oil.  There are things about castor I've never understood and can find very little info to explain.   Bakers AAA castor-who rates it it and how?  Degummed castor?  What?  The best answer I can find on that  'degummed' castor is simply the castor obtained from the first pressing of the beans to extract it.  They are pressed numerous times and the result is gummy castor-I guess.  I've bought castor from several different sources and can't really tell any difference .  Tators may not be the castor anyway but still would like to understand the stuff better ...

      Yes, I have asked a variety of real and supposed "oil experts" about what "degummed" might mean with questionable answers.

     The one thing I know about castor oil is that there are what amounts to "virgin" pressings where they just squeeze out the oil, and after that, they use some sort of solvent to wash the crushed-up beans to get the last bit of the oil, then heat it up to drive off the solvent. If you don't drive off the solvent, it may cause problems later. In the case I extensively pursued, the solvent was Xylene, and the effect was some sort of white precipitate that formed a few weeks after mixing the fuel. This was the Red Max fiasco, and what they lied about concerning castor oil. The lie was that "everyone has the same problem, all castor is bad, but you don't need it anyway, what you need is our special FHS Super Oil that is really super-duper good although it's so good we won't tell you anything about it other than its' really super-duper good and a "Top CL Stunt Engine Expert" said so and how many gallons do you want?"  Then I found out who their 'Top CL Stunt Engine Expert" was...!

   Randy was convinced it was the castor oil, too. But I have castor in my Powermaster, it never had a more than a hint of deposition, and lots of people use GMA, with a ton of castor, still no problem.

     Brett

Online Dan McEntee

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Re: How glow plugs work
« Reply #8 on: June 08, 2024, 08:02:19 PM »
I ran Byrons fuel for a very long time and could encounter taters maybe once or twice a season.  I had a habit of just putting in a new plug before each contest so usually avoided any problem.  Now I mix all my fuel and due to the price and scarcity of good plugs I'm not so apt to chuck a good running plug.  I really have no idea why they form but I always suspected something about the castor oil.  There are things about castor I've never understood and can find very little info to explain.   Bakers AAA castor-who rates it it and how?  Degummed castor?  What?  The best answer I can find on that  'degummed' castor is simply the castor obtained from the first pressing of the beans to extract it.  They are pressed numerous times and the result is gummy castor-I guess.  I've bought castor from several different sources and can't really tell any difference .  Tators may not be the castor anyway but still would like to understand the stuff better ...



Dave

     Running the engines I do, and I have used SIG fuel almost exclusively  for many years until we couldn't get it any more, and I never encountered taters. Carbon? Yes. Taters like Brett describes, no.  The term " Bakers AA Castor Oil" that SIG would have on their castor bottles was something that I wondered about also over the years. I know you can get medicinal castor at any drug store and used that in my early days. I also learned that you you can get castor oil in the baking department of grocery stores. I asked my Mom about that years ago and she said that there were lots of old German recipes that called for castor oil. After I became familiar with the SIG castor and the Bakers AA on the label, I figured that this must be what that meant, a grade of castor pure enough for human consumption in baking. Sort of made sense  I think. The it was fairly recently that I came across an eBay auction for a 1 gallon can of "Bakers Castor Oil." I can't remember now if it said AA, but it was a very cool looking old can, still sealed, and said it was by Bakers oil Company or something like that. Red can with black ornate writing and decorations, like it might have been from before WW-2. It was listed  for 60 bucks I think, and wasn't sure if I really wanted it, but watched the listing for a while to see if they dropped the price at all. I wasn't too sure what the oil would be like, either. After a month or so, it was gone. I'll bet some can collector bought it. But I think it answers the question I had about what Bakers AA meant on the SIG bottles. I'll have to do some research into the "degummed" terminology. I figured if it's for human consumption, it should be pretty pure and clean of anything. Castor is used in lots of other things, like making plastics, foam and even printing ink. The stuff for printing ink is thicker than molasses, and all it said on the buckets I saw at work, was "Castor oil" and some other verbiage I didn't understand. It would get mixed into some special mixed colors. My oldest brother brought me home a 5 gallon bucket of castor oil once, when I was first starting my big campaign fighting moles in my yard!! he worked for a plastic and foam making company and said that it was used in blending certain plastic. It looked just like SIG castor when held up side by side. I still have some of that left, and it has worked when added to fuel with no perceived problems. Lots of guys on here get their castor from that Bulk Apothecary web site, and it's intended for use on people's skin and hair, and no one has posted anything out problems with using it. My guess it that it depends on how much it\s refined and whether any additives are blended in with it during processing, along with how many pressings it went through. I would be interested to know for sure.
   Type at you later,
    Dan McEntee
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Online Dan McEntee

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Re: How glow plugs work
« Reply #9 on: June 08, 2024, 08:10:12 PM »
      Yes, I have asked a variety of real and supposed "oil experts" about what "degummed" might mean with questionable answers.

     The one thing I know about castor oil is that there are what amounts to "virgin" pressings where they just squeeze out the oil, and after that, they use some sort of solvent to wash the crushed-up beans to get the last bit of the oil, then heat it up to drive off the solvent. If you don't drive off the solvent, it may cause problems later. In the case I extensively pursued, the solvent was Xylene, and the effect was some sort of white precipitate that formed a few weeks after mixing the fuel. This was the Red Max fiasco, and what they lied about concerning castor oil. The lie was that "everyone has the same problem, all castor is bad, but you don't need it anyway, what you need is our special FHS Super Oil that is really super-duper good although it's so good we won't tell you anything about it other than its' really super-duper good and a "Top CL Stunt Engine Expert" said so and how many gallons do you want?"  Then I found out who their 'Top CL Stunt Engine Expert" was...!

   Randy was convinced it was the castor oil, too. But I have castor in my Powermaster, it never had a more than a hint of deposition, and lots of people use GMA, with a ton of castor, still no problem.

     Brett

   Years ago when I worked at the local hobby shop, we had a load of Fox fuel that had white little flakes in it. The owner called about it, said they would send new jugs and just transfer the fuel and filter it out. It was from the castor making process. You could get the flakes on your finger, squeeze then and the would squish and disappear. There wasn't tons of them in the jugs either, just enough to be noticeable. I think it might have been plastic from when the jugs were made, but again, the flakes were soft and squishy.  I got the job  of transferring the fuel and filtered it through paint filters and that caught them all. They never came back after filtering either. I ran the fuel in my Foxes at the time and remember that it ran fine. I have heard other stories about white flakes in all castor fuel but have never seen it again after that.

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Online Brett Buck

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Re: How glow plugs work
« Reply #10 on: June 08, 2024, 08:14:55 PM »
It was from the castor making process. You could get the flakes on your finger, squeeze then and the would squish and disappear.

  Right, the process of extracting the last dregs of oil using a solvent. Apparently Xylene doesn't like something in the fuel, probably decomposing small amount of the methanol or nitromethane.

     The Red Max thing was so infuriating I didn't care what they said about, they are #1 on my "Never Do Business With Again" list, even above Comcast.

      Brett

Offline Brian Hampton

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Re: How glow plugs work
« Reply #11 on: June 09, 2024, 06:04:26 PM »
My understanding of the process of extracting oil from the castor bean is that first the bean is crushed and the oil is extracted (first pressing). Then the (wet) husks are collected and crushed again (second pressing). That forms the basis for a pure oil ready to use as a lubricant although it goes through some filtering processes to remove any solid particles still remaining. This pressed and cleaned oil is likely what's called virgin castor. After second pressings the husks can then go through chemical extraction to get the remaining few percent of oil which can then be mixed into the virgin oil to give what's essentially a second rate oil and the white flakes problem, possibly even these taters which I read about but have never seen in my 60 odd years of using castor (Castrol M). BTW, the brand Castrol is a contraction of castor oil and the company first used it as a lubricant for cars in 1906.

Online Brett Buck

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Re: How glow plugs work
« Reply #12 on: June 09, 2024, 07:24:07 PM »
possibly even these taters which I read about but have never seen in my 60 odd years of using castor (Castrol M). BTW, the brand Castrol is a contraction of castor oil and the company first used it as a lubricant for cars in 1906.

     As mentioned, I am at least skeptical that the "taters" are a function of castor oil - there are far too many cases where people use a lot of castor and have no taters, and then change something else and do. I am pretty sure on the flakes, however, having had them analyzed and finding xylene, which is how cheap castor is extracted.

  You maybe haven't seen them because you don't usually run big  tuned pipe engines. Even with a PA51 on a pipe, no problem. PA61, huge problem depending on which fuel you used. We never had them on the low-perfomance engines like 4-2 break 60s or the like. Combat guys found them on 36s but they were also glowing dull red in use.

     Brett

Offline Mark wood

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Re: How glow plugs work
« Reply #13 on: June 09, 2024, 09:27:10 PM »
I got my hands on some Sig Champion 10% nitro fuel today and ignited it with the New Method igniter. Playing with fire is always fun so I made a video to show that the platinum wire does ignite the fuel. It was a bit tougher to do but I think that is because I was using a metal shot glass and there was less vapor concentration. I also tried straight Nitro to see if it would ignite and it wouldn't so there's a nitro/alcohol ratio where it doesn't work any longer. Somewhere north of 60% probably as I've used that before.



Oh, and we did some lights at the field too. So far no taters.
Life is good AMA 1488
Why do we fly? We are practicing, you might say, what it means to be alive...  -Richard Bach
“Physics is like sex: sure, it may give some practical results, but that’s not why we do it.” – Richard P. Feynman

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