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Author Topic: Tom Morris Takeapart Hardware  (Read 9838 times)

Offline Brett Buck

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Re: Tom Morris Takeapart Hardware
« Reply #50 on: November 19, 2022, 04:31:30 PM »
Everything is available, for example these cutters that would easily produce such deep square blind hole with a 0,75mm corner radius. Also available with a ball-end. I do it often with manual machines, too.  But honestly, as a mechanic, I don't understand the added complication of such a deep blind square hole. To me an U-beam is almost equally elegant. L

    If you are digging 2" deep with that end mill, in carbide, I hope you are wearing eye protection and a flak jacket.

   Again, I intentionally limit myself to things I can do with a drill and some files in my bedroom, and taking it to my buddys garage for milling was way out of my comfort zone.

   I like Paul's co-axial alignment pin. Making a separate hole for it on mine was a pain to set up accurately enough.

     Brett

Online Lauri Malila

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Re: Tom Morris Takeapart Hardware
« Reply #51 on: November 20, 2022, 12:42:50 AM »
No. If you look at the drawing, the hole is 1,07” deep.
It’s not dangerous at all; you first drill a center hole and then proceed with the square X/Y movement, removing 0,5mm at each pass. DRO is your friend.
But it’s quite slow, of course. You'll need watchmakers patience. Biggest problem is evacuating the chips from the hole; working at home I cannot use high pressure coolant.
Anyway, I’ll make my parts
With a П-channel where the spar is glued. I guess the channel will be something like 40…45mm long. L
« Last Edit: November 20, 2022, 03:56:15 AM by Lauri Malila »

Offline Kim Doherty

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Re: Tom Morris Takeapart Hardware
« Reply #52 on: November 25, 2022, 10:48:03 PM »
Lifted from an older post:

Some more "Grist for the mill"

Below I have attached some pictures of different take apart systems and construction details.


The first image shows the Russian take-aparts referenced by Frank (I think) that he received from Konstantine.  Note that the ends of these parts come round as they were made on a lathe. They need to be milled square prior to gluing. Very light and well made. Anodized Aluminum, 3mm bolt.

The next four images show the wing take apart pieces of the original SkyWriter. You will note that the bolt (sometime refered to as the "Jesus Bolt") is in shear. This is by far the prefered way to make a take apart but it also reqires some fairly exact milling. Most take apart fasteners will have the bolt in tension. ( I have never had one let go)

Note that the spar itself is made of maple. The aluminum pieces are epoxied and pinned with brass rod. The maple main spar has sweep built in and is also a machined piece. (Maple machines very well!) Notice the vertical end grain bracing between the spars. The spars must not be allowed to move towards each other or the wing will fail at once.


The last set of images shows the wing take aparts from "Shockwave". Milled "U" channel, square ends, turned mid sections for lightness, 7075 aluminum, 4/40 thread. Very light (total weight of all take aparts for complete model = 46 grams).




Offline Shorts,David

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Re: Tom Morris Takeapart Hardware
« Reply #53 on: December 26, 2022, 10:06:36 PM »
 

     I found a different solution to take-apart airplanes - bought a mini-van and quit the FAI.

     Brett

I was explaining take apart construction to my dad without ever really doing it. We decided a van and an extra week driving was a better option. But I'm committed already so I'm trying it out.


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