General rules for picking tablesaw blades:
--Thin kerf takes less power
--Ripping takes more power than cross-cutting
--More teeth are better for cross-cutting, with less tearout. Fewer teeth are used in ripping blades
--A cross-cut optimized blade will rip, but it takes more power
--Many prefer a combination blade that will do both passably well. If you are power limited based on ripping hard maple stock for motor mounts you need to pick a blade for ripping as a first criteria
--A sharp blade is needed when power is limited. But not all carbide is created equal. The edge quality (sharpness) of cheap carbides is not so good. Thin kerf carbides tend to be more fragile
--A plain-tooth blade (not carbide) when it is sharp will cut maple no problem
--I don't know if anyone bothers sharpening these mini-blades. If I was in the middle of cutting motor mounts and needed a sharper blade, I'd definitely go after it with a stone
--The Forrest sawblades have some of the best sharpening geometries going. Lots of tests have been done. Both Forrest style and Freud are very good. But I don't see any mini-blades from them
--If the motor will pull it, but the belt is slipping, then...tighter or add dressing
--If you are burning the edges of the cut with your blade when cutting maple, then the saw is not square, the blade is dull, or the blade does not have sufficient relief (carbide tipped) or set (plain)
--Raising the blade will use less power. But with more blade exposed you need to follow safety rules very carefully
--A dirty blade (with wood sap on it) will waste power and may be more prone to burning the wood
There is probably more, but this is what comes to mind,
Good luck with your new project!
Dave
PS--It has poured on and off here the last few days. I saw catfish drowning in my driveway, and there are no lakes around here.... So I'm trying to do some building, too!