Converting a Byron Barker Paint Stand

[Mike Griffin]

The paint stand I bought from Byron Barker years ago will last till the end of time.  However, mine and I am sure if any of you bought one too, was set up for IC engines.  The adapter plates I bought from Byron were drilled for several different engine mounts.  I now have a lot of electric profiles with the rear mount application.  In other words the motor bolts to a plate in the rear of the engine compartment and the shaft runs through a bearing behind the plate.

Has anyone come up with a way to make a plate or attachment that will hold the plane by the nose (like it does for IC engines) so you can use it to paint your model?

Thanks
Mike

[David_Stack]

Good Afternoon Mike;

  In his "New Build" thread, Randy Powell shows pictures of his new model (which I believe is e-powered), attached to some sort of fixture, cantilevered out from one of his building tables (take a look at posts 425 and 447).  It is clearly not a Byron Barker paint stand, but he may be able to provide you details on what he has installed inside the nose of that model, secured to his motor mount...

r/
Dave

[Fred Cronenwett]

I took an old wood stand, bought some threaded pipe and a fitting that makes this paint stand.

If you got a smaller threaded pipe it might fit hopefully, the one I use is large but does allow the model to spin and can easily be pulled out and handled by the threaded pipe, I never have to touch the model until it's fully dried.

This scale RV-4 is also electric and is flown in CL scale

Fred Cronenwett

[Ward Van Duzer]

Jus' a thought...

Bolt the IC mounting plate to an R/C mount.
Mount the R/C mount to the firewall!

W   

[Howard Rush]

Here's what I did.  It's a piece of broomstick and a hefty plate that mounts to the firewall.  Rather than the two 3mm screws that the rear-mount motor uses, this mount uses 1/4-20 bolts through cooling holes in the firewall.  (Those are 1/4-20 blind nuts.)  The new plane will be easier to mount, but will take more adapters.  I'll paint the body and each wing separately.   

[Derek Barry]

Here's what I did.  It's a piece of broomstick and a hefty plate that mounts to the firewall.  Rather than the two 3mm screws that the rear-mount motor uses, this mount uses 1/4-20 bolts through cooling holes in the firewall.  (Those are 1/4-20 blind nuts.)  The new plane will be easier to mount, but will take more adapters.  I'll paint the body and each wing separately.   

The wings are tricky and I never got around to making a jig to hold them. I just slid my hand inside the wing and tried not to drop it on the floor. If I do another take apart I will make a jig...

Derek

[Mike Griffin]

I really appreciate the feedback you guys are givimg here.  All of my electrics are profiles and the motors are what I call "back mounted".  I am inlcuding a couple of pictures of the front ends and you can see the groove cut for the 1/4" plywood mounting plate and one the other you can see the back of the plate and the triangle ply gussests for support.  What I am trying to do is come up with a modification of a plate that will attach to the mounting plate (kinda like what Howard Posted) so I can rotate the model on the stand and paint it.  The front end on these models have no hardwood motor mounts so you have to screw into something else with the adapter plate. 

Mike