Control Linkage Setup

[Warren Leadbeatter]

Hi All

I have recently purchased a Brodak Strega ARF and a Saito 62 and am now trying to put it all together.

The hardware package within the kit was damaged on the long flight to Australia and all the bit fells out, and some bits did not arrive here.

I am now trying to figure out what is missing and how to put the controls in. The notes call for me to use JB Weld to glue the metal control rod ends to the cardbon fibre pushrods.  Only problem I have here is that there is no such thing as JB Weld here in Australia.  I was just going to use epoxy.

Would this be ok or should I drill a hole through the rod and put some wire reinforcement in?

Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers

[Leester]

Warren: Just use whatever you use to glue rod inserts in your C/F push rods foe ball links and clevises. A Good epoxy should do it, next time you order from Brodak,Sig,RSM or SShobbies have them send you some JB Weld.

[Peter Nevai]

FYI JB Weld is a 2 part slow cure epoxy (with aluminum powder matrix added?) You probably have similar products in OZ. It is usually marketed as stuff to repair aluminum castings mainly found in Hardware, Marine, automotive supply shops.

[Wynn Robins]

Warren, I use slo cure epoxy on the control linkages...it works fine.

You can get JB Weld at Kmart and Supercheap auto.....  FWIW

[captcurt]

Devcon makes many similar products.  Even a titanium-filled epoxy.  It is available from many industrial supply houses.

Curt

PS.  I would not hesitate to use a regular slow-cure epoxy material for the rod ends.  Fill with high-strength filler to keep it from running out of the joint.  Milled (glass or carbon) fibers are good for this.

[Jim Morris]

One thing I might add is that I wrap my ends with thread and smear guick dry apoxy over the thread. Just a little safety precaution so it never splits, but I wouldnt be too afraid of leaving it as is. Hope this helps.

[Warren Leadbeatter]

Thanks Wynn!  I went to Kmart and they did have JB Weld in stock.  Thanks everyone

I believe that there should be some sort of physical backup to the connection. I would prefer that the ends scrwed into the CF rod. So what I am going to do is glue the end in place with JB weld, then drill a .5mm hole through the end then feed a piece of steel wire through it and then wrap wire around the outside then coat with epoxy.   That way if the glue breaks the joint will still hold up and my ARF wont crash due to a control linkage failure.

[minnesotamodeler]

A "belt and suspenders" kinda guy, huh?

[Warren Leadbeatter]

Yep. I've seen a few ARF's crash because of control linkage failure now. None of them were mine but I dont want it to happen to me either.

Cheers

[Steve Helmick]

We had a new Strega ARF show up at the field in the hands of a new member and retread, Pete Ferguson. This is the second one I've seen. Both had up elevator with what appeared to be neutral flap. Pete's had what looked like a very short elevator horn. He said he had problems with the hinges, and ended up doing them over...twice, I think. The flaps were also too spongy to suit him, and he made two new sets. I guess the bellcrank and leadouts are actually done here in the USA, and are said to be good stuff. I'd bet you could get a new hardware packet from Brodak's in a few days.... Steve

[Warren Leadbeatter]

Oh yes I should have mentioned "my friend in control line" is sending me a new hardware package.  :-)

I've read a fair bit about the Strega and had heard about the flaps being too soft or spongy and being replaced.  The flaps on mine look and feel quite good so I'll be leaving mine as is.  Overall I'm very happy with the build. I can't see why there would be any problems setting up the hinges and controls to work properly at this stage.  The only part that has already been done is the bellcrank and leadouts and they look great.  The horns also look fairly normal to me... almost the same as the ones on all my other models.

Cheers