Rick
Email sent. Other modelers may also want to know what the suggested mods are.
Clancy
SIG Banshee Mods per Jack Sheeks
Mods I made to Mr. Ugly
Mods recommended by Jack Sheeks
1. Shorten the nose 3/4 inch. This will require cutting the ½ inch body plank and both 1/8 Ply doublers and moving the Motor Mounts back the same amount. This will require a 2 inch Spinner in stead of the 1 3/4 inch Spinner called out on the plans to look right.
2. Replace Stab and Elevator. New sizes are each 22 by 3 inches tapered to 2 inches at the tips. Retain the 14 inch hinge line to hinge line spacing.
3. Modify the Outboard Flap to clear the pushrod by removing a 1/2 x 1 inch piece from the inboard rear corner.
4. Set up the controls for a maximum of +/- 30 degrees of travel on the Flaps and Elevator.
Additional Mods I incorporated in Mr. Ugly:
1. Replace original Motor Mounts with new Mounts 3/8 x 1/2 x 11 7/8 inches. This extends the Motor Mounts all the way to the 1/4 x 1/4 Wing Spars. Notch the Wing Sheeting to clear the new Motor Mounts. This requires assembling the body with the Wing installed! Use very slow set epoxy. This Mod greatly stiffens the nose.
2. Space Motor Mounts for Engine. Fox 35 requires 1 1/4 inch spacing. If your engine requires a different Motor Mount spacing try to maintain the original thrust line.
3. The kit as cut fits a Fox 35, extend the cutout in the 1/2 body plank to 4 3/4 inches behind the engine. This will then allow for a 3/4 inch space between the engine and the Fuel Tank and allow the tank to be recessed into the body for better fuel feed. Note: Mine had a standard 1 x 2 x 4 inch Square Wedge Uniflow Tank.
4. Modify the outboard 1/8 Ply Doubler to clear the engine. Move back 3/ 4 inch and then cut out the area between Motor Mounts for the1 x 2 x 4 Fuel Tank leaving a little clearance for installing the tank. When ready to assemble the body, insert a 3/ 4 x 1? balsa block to fill in between the engine cutout and the Fuel Tank cutout between the Motor Mounts.
How did Mr. Ugly get it's name?
I wanted to learn how to fly the stunt pattern. My flying friend Jack Sheeks said that if I built a good stunt model he would coach me through the learning process. In the spring of 1988 I bought a SIG Banshee kit from Jack Sheeks Hobby Shop and Jack marked up the plans with the changes he recommended. I built the model with Jack's recommendations and some personal ideas. So that I would know any problems I had flying the pattern would be me and not the model I asked Jack to test fly it first. Jack took it off and did a couple of easy maneuvers and then flew it level for 6 laps. At this point I assumed it was way off! Not so! Jack proceeded to fly a full pattern that even I could identify each maneuver.
When the fuel ran out Jack landed it and told me I could NOT fly my model until he said so. Back to the Nobler. Later that summer Jack took my model to the SIG CL contest and entered it in stunt. Remember this was only to be a stunt trainer for me so I used available material I had on hand to finish the model. Orange iron on covering for the wing, tail feathers and to mark out the canopy. The rest of the body was painted with flat camouflage tan dope left over from a scale military model. Yes, Bright Orange wing and tail with a flat Tan body. The other contestants started teasing Jack about his UGLY model. Jack said they would be calling it Mr. Ugly before the weekend was over and took a black marker and wrote Mr. Ugly on the wing. After he won they called it Mr. Ugly! Jack took it back the next year and two of the three judges had him in first place again. He asked the third judge what was wrong with his flight and the answer was “A profile body model cannot turn like a full body stunt model can,” Jacks reply was That one can.” In 1990 Jack took it back for the third time and got some bad air and crashed. I never got to fly my Banshee(k).
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Clancy
Revision in Red.
Clancy