Clunk Tank mounting on Profile

[Stephen]

I'm in the process of applying the final touch to my new profile plane however I'm having trouble on deciding how I will mount the clunk tank. I've seen tie straps used before but can't remember how they are attached to the fuse. I want something "clean" looking.

I'm reaching out to the stunt world for photos and ideas.

Thanks for the help !!!

[Fredvon4]

I have done it 3 different ways

1. J hooks for rubber bands.... store bought 4-40 J hooks are horribly expensive
--- ON one I just drilled 4 holes through the fuse and put in long pieces of music wire,  bent over on the inside of the fuse,  then cut and bent to length on the tank side
--- Did not really like the look of the wire from hole to hole on the inside BUT was fast to set up and worked well

2. Home made J hooks but epoxied in on the Tank side only...looked and worked well
-----but both options I used rubber bands that deteriorate....never did get a stash of large -O- Rings

Some comments on a forum that Ply or aluminum can be successfully glued to the back of a plastic clunk tanks. Then set up with two elongated holes to mount and adjust...the adjustment mounting slots can be fore and aft, or top and bottom, depending on real estate on the outboard or inboard side

I took a fresh Hayes tank...cleaned well and 100 grit sanded on the back side..then cleaned again and set my ply wood mount to the tank with J&B epoxy. Then fuel proofed the ply with thinned 30 min hobby epoxy
------Two years of infrequent flying... has not de-bonded yet, and still looks the best of my methods

I personally do not like working with wire ties, but see that a LOT of folks use that method

[bill bischoff]

Use 1/4" wide K&S brass straps screwed to the fuselage. You can dress them up with colored heat shrink to make them pretty. Go to the Carrier forum, and look for my post "Dumas Crusader for nostalgia profile carrier" for pictures. It's currently near the bottom of page 7.

Bill Bischoff

[Dennis Toth]

Steve,
As Bill said use the K&S brass strap 3/8" wide ~ 0.015" thick - use two.  Wrap one around the front (about 1/4 the way back), one around the back about 1/4 the way from the end of the tank. Bend tabs 3/8" long at the point where the fuse meets the inside edge of the tank. Drill holes for either large 3/8", No 8 sheet metal screws or 4-40 bolts. Elongate the holes in the straps to allow at least 1/4" movement up/down. Its is important to position the tank vertically with the centerline of the tank in line with centerline of the hole in the spraybar as a starting point. Many engines like the tank a little higher than on centerline so you need the flexibility. If you are using a Fox 29/35 start with the tank centerline lined up with the first fin up from the centerline of the engine. If you let us know the engine others may be able to give a starting position, I think the OS's like it on NVA centerline.

Best,   DennisT

[Steve Helmick]

For stunt, even sport-stunt, you need to make the tank height adjustable, of which Bill's doesn't appear to be capable. The metal straps do look neat...also notice he has both forward and rear stops for the tank. Combining the metal straps with a backing plate would be ideal...if there is enough space above the tank.

If I glued the tank to an adjustable backing plate, I'd make up a spare and haul it around in a ziplock bag, just in case the glue failed. I'd also have some sort of strap arrangement to keep the tank from flying off into the throngs of onlookers, just in case.  Steve

[Richard Imhoff]

This is the way i do it.
Cut out a plywood or aluminum plate "seal the plywood for fuel proofing" Glue on the plastic tank with Shoe Goo. The only way to get the tank off is cut it off the plywood or aluminum mount because that is the only way it will come off. Slotting the mount makes the tank adjustible for even fuel runs.

[Russell Shaffer]

Rough up the tank, clean it with nasty solvent and then glue it to 1/8 ply with Goop.  I don't think you can tear it off.  After saying this, my next effort will probably fall off before it flies. I suspect Shoe Goo and Goop are actually the same product with different names.

[peabody]

Mike Ostella made a nifty one for me once: he used aluminum that conformed to the tank and had tabs fore and aft that were slotted for raising and lowering the tank.
Mike used cable ties to secure the tank to the mount.....
Every time that I have used rubber bands and "J" hooks (I use cup hooks" to hold the tank, I end up crushing the thing....
Have fun!

[Paul Taylor]

I put blind nuts on the back side. Best to plan ahead and do it from the get go.
Made a wooden plate with slots for adjustments.






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[Scott Hartford]

I use safety wire instead of zip ties or rubber bands. I also mount the tank on the inboard side...

[Norm Faith Jr.]

I have used this method for many years and it works great (no failures) and is very adjustable. As mentioned already, use a plywood mount. I use 1/6"sheet, cut to about 1/8" larger (vertical width) and about 3/8" to 1/2" larger (horizontal width) of the selected clunk tank. cut two vertical slots on the fore and aft ends of the plywood mount with nominal edge distance, I brush coat the plywood mount with thinned 30 minute epoxie. Scuff the mounting surface of the tank and bond to the plywood mount with clear GE RTV Silicone. (let it cure good) Mount the tank on the fuselage with threaded wood inserts, screws and washers. This method will allow you to raise and lower the tank, even at an angle.
Norm

[Bootlegger]

 Norm, where do you get those inserts and what size are they and how do you mount them?  o you put epoxy in the wood to hold them, or something else?

  Comin to Zachary in Oct?  Looking for ward to seein all of y'all then, and hopefully in Nov at your contest...

[Allan Perret]

I like Rootbeard's method, screws are hidden under tank and don't use up any of the space between wing and engine..

[Charles Carter]

I have used Rootbeard's method with two little changes.  I used thin velcro straps which allowed me to reuse them over and over again to adjust the tank height.   I also used brass inserts which keep the inboard fuse side appearance clean looking instead of blind nuts.  I liked everybody's pictures keep the pictures coming,

Charles Carter

[Paul Taylor]

I do have a cheek cowl on the back side so the blind nuts don't show. 😊

[Stephen]

Thank you all for the help \ ideas, each of you were very helpful.

Stephen

[Norm Faith Jr.]

Norm, where do you get those inserts and what size are they and how do you mount them?  o you put epoxy in the wood to hold them, or something else?

  Comin to Zachary in Oct?  Looking for ward to seein all of y'all then, and hopefully in Nov at your contest...

Hi Gil, I believe the last inserts I got were from "Micro Fasteners." 4-40, 6-32, 8-32, 10-32. I usually use a drill bit size that matches the diameter of the insert, measured in the groove of the insert thread, with the blade edge of a dial caliper. I use a drill bit the size of the actual screw you will use to attach whatever...to a depth you think the screw will go into the wood. Then re-drill the hole with the bit selected for the insert, no deeper than the length of the insert. Coat the insert threads (outer) with some 30 minute epoxy and screw the insert into the hole until flush with the surface. Let the epoxy cure real good before installing a screw. This is normally done in areas that have a plywood "doubler," it is not very reliable in balsa only applications. As Far a Zachary...I'll be there if I get back from Florida in time.
Norm

[RknRusty]

Richard, Root, and Norm's pictures are much neater than mine, but same concept. I use zip ties or metal straps to secure the tank to the ply plate, 4-40 and Brass threaded inserts epoxied into the fuselage(or into an embedded  dowel plug). This will also allow you to try different tanks in the future. I slather my ply plate with Minwax spar urethane to fuelproof it. I use a pad between my tank and mounting plate. With a metal tank I shim the rear outward for smooth shutoffs, but it's not so critical with a clunker.

Mine's not a clunk in the picture, but it was soon after.

This Tutor built by Will Davis and loaned to me has been flying in contests since 1987 and won a 2nd and a 1st place just this Spring.
Rusty