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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Paul Taylor on May 23, 2014, 09:15:17 PM
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Anybody have success running plastic clunk tanks in a full fuse plane?
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Yes, many times, and in some of my current regular flyers as well. With a clunk tank I always use muffler pressure and as long as the tank itself is set up properly they work great. One thing I also do when using a clunk tank is to replace the standard clunk with one of the heavier pointy ones that are available separately from Sullivan. And honestly, it's a clunk tank, so it doesn't know if it's hanging on the side of a profile, or hiding inside a fuselage. :)
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I first used one about 45 years ago in a Supermaster and have never used a metal tank since. I use a brass tube for the uniflow line but bend it so that most of the length lays flat against the side of the tank to stop any possible fouling with the clunk line. Must of the time I've used muffler pressure but not in my SV-11 with an Enya 61 RE (muffled).
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I started using them when I got my first ST 46 when I was 14 years old. I have never had a metal tank since then either in RC or CL.
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I had one for a year in my Oriental Plus. After a year of pain with it leaking, destroying the nose due to fuel soak age, and not giving me a correct motor run, I took it out and out a metal one in. Never had any issues since.
People can make the plastic clunk tanks work, they were just not for me
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With a plastic tank and wood engine bearers you need to trim half the thickness of the bearers in the tank area before glueing them to the fuselage sides or making the crutch. The mid point of the plastic tank is too far from the spray bar to make it work right. You need to design the tank bay so the tank center line is at the spray bar height. Using an r/c engine mount is perfect for the plastic tank but wood mounts can work also. And always install the tubing at least 3/8" onto the brass tubes inside and out. I had the pressure tube fall off the tank yesterday and last year I had the pickup line fall off inside the tank. Talk about a strange engine run. Always pressure test the tank with all the outside lines connected before installing it in the plane. I use the fueling syringe to pressurize the system under water.
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I use a plastic clunk tank in a Smoothie ARF with Saito 40 with muffler pressure ... works trouble free.
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With a plastic tank and wood engine bearers you need to trim half the thickness of the bearers in the tank area before glueing them to the fuselage sides or making the crutch. The mid point of the plastic tank is too far from the spray bar to make it work right. You need to design the tank bay so the tank center line is at the spray bar height.
Been using Sullivan slant ovals from 1991 until 2006, when I made my best decision ever and moved up to the next level: electric.
But engines on plain wooden bearers is a big no no.... Always use 3 mm (~1/8") aluminium crush plates.
This will lift your spray bar far enough so you might even have to shim your tank.
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Plastic clunk tanks have worked for me. I solder a short piece of copper tubing onto the clunk for uni-flo, although I don't think it's necessary to have the uni-flo attached to the clunk. Using one in a Legacy with ST51.
Floyd
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Clunk tanks plumbed for uniflo work very well. Now if some manufacturer would just make one 2 inches wide by 1.5 inches high in 5oz, 6oz, and 7oz with the bump on the top for the overflow, it would be easier to use them in most CL stunt planes!!!
I talked to sullivan about it several years ago and they said they didn't think the volume was there to support the tooling...they're probably right.
As usual CL sucking hind tit!
Randy Cuberly
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always (when I flew with fuel) cant beat them on the LA46 setup - run muffler pressure enough said
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I use a steel clunk tank in all my NoblARF's. Works great.
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Worked great in my Golden Falcon with a vibrating Tigre 60. Very consistent.
Chris...
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I have a plastic clunk tank setup with the uniflow in 4 of my planes and they work great!! I set em up by Allen Brickhaus's specs.