looking for recommendations candidate for Electric conversion build form a Kit

[dave siegler]

I have the following un built kits and would like to make one of them Epower.  I wonder what your thought are

1) Sig Banshee,  real hard wood on this one
2) ARF Nobler
3) Brodak Hawker Hurricane  profile   
3) RSM P40 B, the older glow versions, have one full and one partial kit. 
4) Magician (A Merlin, a clone)

Also a Nobler undergoing a rebuild

[Gerald Arana]

I have the following un built kits and would like to make one of them Epower.  I wonder what your thought are

1) Sig Banshee,  real hard wood on this one
2) ARF Nobler
3) Brodak Hawker Hurricane  profile   
3) RSM P40 B, the older glow versions, have one full and one partial kit. 
4) Magician (A Merlin, a clone)

Also a Nobler undergoing a rebuild

I'd go with the ARF Nobler. That FG cowl can easily be made a "hatch" to get the battery in and out.

Good luck.Jerry

PS: Change the control system. They fly great.

[Frank Imbriaco]

ARF Nobler. ( enhanced with adjustable leadouts  and tip weight box.)
Stock cowl can be used, but will require some modifications
E-Flight Power 15.
Hunt G-8 firewall
Hubin FM-9 timer
CC ESC
4S 2500-2800
 APC 11 x 4.5 or 5.5 EP

[Ken Culbertson]

I would first ask how long you have been on the "Dark Side".  The Noblers will benefit the most from E-power but cramming all of the electronics and battery into that tiny nose is not a first time task.  I have convreted one from OS35s power to a Cobra 2826.  It was a pleasure to fly but two mosquitoes would have had a hard time passing each other inside the cowel.  I scrapped the plastic one and built my own so that I could put the EXC and timer into the cowel.  Having done that I could fit an average size 4s 2800 battery.

My 2nd choice (first if this is your first electric) would be the Banshee/Magician - pickum. .  May have to lengthen the nose a tad.  Battery on the outside (less tip weight), electronics on the inside of the fuselage.  I have done a Twister which is pretty close to the Banshee. 

Goos Luck - Ken

[dave siegler]

I would first ask how long you have been on the "Dark Side".  The Noblers will benefit the most from E-power but cramming all of the electronics and battery into that tiny nose is not a first time task.  I have convreted one from OS35s power to a Cobra 2826.  It was a pleasure to fly but two mosquitoes would have had a hard time passing each other inside the cowel.  I scrapped the plastic one and built my own so that I could put the EXC and timer into the cowel.  Having done that I could fit an average size 4s 2800 battery.

My 2nd choice (first if this is your first electric) would be the Banshee/Magician - pickum. .  May have to lengthen the nose a tad.  Battery on the outside (less tip weight), electronics on the inside of the fuselage.  I have done a Twister which is pretty close to the Banshee. 

Goos Luck - Ken

First outdoor control line electric, have built RC and indoor CL ones.  Want to convert the ARF nobler, but was led to believe the nobler had limited battery space, so have been hedging there.

[Ken Culbertson]

First outdoor control line electric, have built RC and indoor CL ones.  Want to convert the ARF nobler, but was led to believe the nobler had limited battery space, so have been hedging there.

It can be done.  First find some matching Monokote unless you want a different nose color, then strip off the covering back to the wing.  What I did was to remove the forward firewall completely and I used a Morris (now Okie Air) nose mount screwed into the front of the mounts with a thin aluminum front-plate for the nose ring mount with tabs that bent back to screw into the mounts.  Ground out all but about 1/4" of the mounts all the way back to the wing leaving a coupe of bumps to screw the battery tray to later.  Next cut a piece of 1/16" plywood or 3/32 Bass to put on top of the mounts creating a huge battery box.  Make it from about 1/4" behind the motor to 1/2" in front of the wing.  This will be screwed to the mounts creating a tunnel above it where you will put the ESC.    I cut two vent holes at the rear of that tunnel and closed it off with baffles vectoring the air out the sides.  The motor wires go to the top and through the tunnel attaching to the ESC.  The battery connection comes out of the tunnel at the end and plugs into the cutoff switch then to the battery mounted with the wires coming out of the battery front.  The timer and start button (I used a Hubin FM-9) were mounted to the floor of the cowling.  You really need to carve a new cowling.  The nose of an electric is really quite different from an IC and the heat is not concentrated in a small (by comparison) cylinder head easily vented.   You only need access to the motor to remove it and you do that from the rear.  No venturi to cut a hole for, no needle valve.  In other words, unless you use a rear mount on the motot attached to the front of the firewall, the front half of the cowl does not have to come off.  When I did my ARF Nobler I didn't know that yet so I built a "Nobler" like cowl to replace the glass one in the kit.  It worked fine but I would do it differently today.

If you want, I will track down some pix or sketch this layout.  My first try was a blivit but redone it worked quite well.

I am not the only one to skin this cat.  Maybe you can get some others to chime in.

Good luck - I think you will be happy with the results.  The ARF flies remarkably like a Green Box.

Ken

TDM is right, it does fly better electric than IC.  Only aerodynamic thing I did was decrease the flap movement a small amount relative to the elevator.  Too much and it stalls but just a bit moves the center of rotation forward enough that I don't want see how far I can drive it into the pavement on purpose.  I hate planes that rotate around the tail.  I apologize for the pix.  Doesn't blow up enough but it is all I have left.  That black spot on the nose is the ESC vent.  One on each side.  Cool part with the Castle ESC is that it lights up when you arm it.

[TDM]

Electric is very controllable and likes thin airfoils.  So my vote is going for the Nobler. Make sure you get airflow over the ESC motor and battery. If you build from plans then substitute 1/64 ply for doublers, mount the motor from the front. Good luck.