Author Topic: Carousel Build (Read 3077 times)

Tom Niebuhr · « **on:** April 22, 2018, 05:59:44 PM »

Laser cut the Carousel ribs today.

Bill Morell · « **Reply #1 on:** April 22, 2018, 06:40:18 PM »

Alan Resinger · « **Reply #2 on:** April 23, 2018, 12:30:05 PM »

Tom,
Amazing to see how skinny that wing is. I remember when it was published in American Modeller. Always thought about one but just never got the time. I think I might still have the Hobby Helpers plans somewhere. I also remember the picture of Jim Vornholt when he had lots of hair and was a bit thinner.
Should be a fun build again. Didn't you build one not too many years back?

Tom Niebuhr · « **Reply #3 on:** April 23, 2018, 07:25:11 PM »

Alan,
Yes, I had it at VSC IX. Go to the thread on Name of Twin Boom Stunter. I posted pictures of that one and what happened to it. I am building another one to do justice for Charles Mackey and Jim Vorhnolt.

Tom Niebuhr · « **Reply #4 on:** April 25, 2018, 10:12:18 AM »

Found another conflict on the Carousel plans. The top view of the stab and elevator calls for a 5/16" soft sheet. The side view measures 1/4" stab and elevator.

This emphasizes the importance of Scott's quest to provide accurate Cad drawings for newly drawn airplanes.

Tom Niebuhr · « **Reply #5 on:** April 30, 2018, 08:48:30 PM »

Bottom sheeting is now complete. I have decided to move the bellcrank aft, behind the spars. Inserting a post and controls at the drawing location is almost impossible. This will give much easier access to install the 2 push rods.

The Gobbleswantz has the bellcrank in the inboard boom. Charlie felt that the Carousel outboard controls provided better flight characteristics. Personally, I doubt if there is much difference.

MikeyPratt · « **Reply #6 on:** May 01, 2018, 11:32:51 AM »

Quote from: Tom Niebuhr on April 30, 2018, 08:48:30 PM

Bottom sheeting is now complete. I have decided to move the bellcrank aft, behind the spars. Inserting a post and controls at the drawing location is almost impossible. This will give much easier access to install the 2 push rods.

The Gobbleswantz has the bellcrank in the inboard boom. Charlie felt that the Carousel outboard controls provided better flight characteristics. Personally, I doubt if there is much difference.

Hi Tom,
I've looked the twin boomers a number of times and always come back to the same thing. I think there is too much flex in the control system and the dual bellcrank’s might help somewhat. Just my opinion, I would try and use carbon fiber tubes on the leading edge of the stabilizer and flaps to eliminate the flex between the two.

It's a great thing you are building and flying this type of model they needed to be done the proper way to show modelers they can perform as intended.

Later Buddy,
Mike Pratt

Tom Niebuhr · « **Reply #7 on:** May 01, 2018, 01:31:59 PM »

Mike,
I've used dual bellcranks before and the complexity is not worth it. The Carousel only has a small flap between the booms, making dual bellcranks unnecessary . The booms actually add rigidity to the tail surfaces so I don't feel that I need anything else added. The stabilizer should be hard balsa, however. The biggest problem is getting everything aligned, particularly with the high stab. That requires making a fixture to hold things in place.

Thanks for your comments.

Tom Niebuhr · « **Reply #8 on:** May 14, 2018, 05:36:03 PM »

Here is the completed Bellcrank to Elevator pushrod. The requires bends make it necessary to use 1/16" piano wire. I used tin can lids to make the triangular gussets to stiffen the push rod that is elevated high above the wing. I also used 3/32" brass tubing that has a 1/16" I.D. This slides over the 1/16" pushrod in order to stiffen it.

I also have a major problem, since there is not enough room to use a removable LG, I need (12) 4-40 J-bolts. We are bitten by the world of Arfs again... No one makes J-Bolts for 1/8" wire gears installed in 1/8" plywood!!!

I might have to anneal some 1" long machine screws, cut the heads off, and make them myself.

These used to commonplace for OTS and Classic airplanes.

I talked to John Brodak today and he will look into having some made.

Meanwhile if anyone has (12) 4-40 J-bolts for 1/8" wire and 1/8" ply wood. please let me know.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #9 on:** May 15, 2018, 11:10:46 AM »

I haven't used those J bolts for ages. Some how I wound up with a box of Phillips Head bolts that I bend over for hooking around the wire gear and then cut the head. So far(knock on wood) have never had a failure.

Dennis Saydak · « **Reply #10 on:** May 15, 2018, 01:58:14 PM »

Tom, PM your postal address and I'll send you the J-Bolts.

Tom Niebuhr · « **Reply #11 on:** May 16, 2018, 08:25:09 AM »

Thanks Dennis.

I sent a PM to you

EddyR · « **Reply #12 on:** May 16, 2018, 11:59:35 AM »

Tom do not use J bolts. There is a much better way to do it. It is very simple,fast, and cost almost nothing and is lighter than Jbolts. I saw Bill Werwage use this method and it is the only way I have done it since 1975.
I will take picture of drawing later today and post it here.
Ed

EddyR · « **Reply #13 on:** May 16, 2018, 07:33:56 PM »

Here is the method Billy uses on his I beam models and 1/8" plywood. I have used it on every gear in all my planes for a long time.
This is not the sew it on with small wire like in a tail wheel. Here you use 14 gauge pulling it tight by twisting the ends and the soldering them . Cut off all excess. I make a bunch of 2" pieces and bend them so they go through the holes and twist with pliers.. A 4 ft piece of 14-2 wiring will gice you three 4 ft pieces of wire. Enough for a lifetime. If you make a mistake cut it all loose and try again.
This method is much stronger than J-bolts and will not get loose.
I just moved this last week so I had to do this on kitchen table with no drawing tools.
Sold almost everything and now I am totally out of CL. May be my last post

Ed Ruane

Tom Niebuhr · « **Reply #14 on:** May 17, 2018, 02:19:32 PM »

Thanks

I have about 25ft. of 14-2 wire left over from some house wiring that I did.

The reason that I like the J-bolts is that it allow me to remove the LG to final adjust the axle area. I use a long straight edge to span across the LG to do the tweaking assuring perfect tracking.

As a side note, please check in on the forum occasionally. This has been a part of your life, and it good to keep up with what is going on.

Dennis Saydak · « **Reply #15 on:** May 31, 2018, 10:01:30 AM »

Picture of Vornholt's Carousel taken at the Nats.

Randy Cuberly · « **Reply #16 on:** May 31, 2018, 09:41:12 PM »

Why not just make the gear removable! It's not that hard. Make a balsa box against the spar, install the typical grooved hardwood piece drill and install the gear with a plate and screws.

See the Colossus photo's below. Yes it's a bit heavier but much better for maintenance!

Randy Cuberly

bill bischoff · « **Reply #17 on:** May 31, 2018, 10:07:00 PM »

Tom, did you ever get the J-bolts you were after? I found 20+ in my junk hardware box. You are welcome to them. I can bring them to the meeting, the contest, or mail them if you want them.

Bill Bischoff

RogerGreene · « **Reply #18 on:** June 01, 2018, 12:44:32 PM »

Tom, I use 15 amp house wire. See photo. Works great. Just drill whole on each side of LG wire, make the house wire into a "U" shape push through holes and twist.

~ Roger

john e. holliday · « **Reply #19 on:** June 01, 2018, 04:03:33 PM »

Is Tom back on his feet?

M. Scott · « **Reply #20 on:** June 08, 2018, 07:49:13 PM »

Quote from: john e. holliday on June 01, 2018, 04:03:33 PM

Is Tom back on his feet?

Not yet, going to be a slow process.
Mike Scott