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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Dick Pacini on August 28, 2010, 11:52:22 AM
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I just finished breaking in my Brodak 40. Here is a pic of the test stand apparatus I built on the quick and dirty. I used a sawhorse, a 2X4, an old shoe shine kit with the legs and footrest knocked off, and an old award plaque I received years ago for some dastardly deed. Upon that I mounted the fine aluminum Jtec stand and a 6oz Sullivan slant nose clunk tank.
I followed the Brodak instructions to the letter, running the engine without the muffler, at a 2/4 break for a minute or two and then pinching off the fuel supply. After a cool down period of 3-5 minutes, the process was repeated, for a total of 20 cycles of heating and cooling. The cylinder/piston pinch was gone after the third time and this engine will start on the first flip after choking for two prop overs and checking for a bump. What a fine little machine. Lastly, I ran 2 full tanks through it non-stop until a total of 32 ounces of recommended Brodak fuel had been consumed.
Anyway, it seemed like the stand looked almost like a 4-legged fuselage with a boxy tail and a little wing in front.
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Dick
As kids we would take Baby Bees and wire an old gym socks to the back plate and plug one vent line.
Start them up and launch vertical. Wasn't the safest thing to do in a neighbor hood but heck it was the 60s!
Yes engines will fly!
David
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Dick
As kids we would take Baby Bees and wire an old gym socks to the back plate and plug one vent line.
Start them up and launch vertical. Wasn't the safest thing to do in a neighbor hood but heck it was the 60s!
How well? Did they stay up for a full tank, or just chase you around the block?
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Now Dick, once in the plane you cn finish breaking it in. I too followed the break in procedure according to the leaflet. Now after about 30 flights it is starting to get consistent. H^^
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Dick, I recently read your post concerning your new Brodak p-40 arf. Is this the engine you intend to use on it? If so, your going to more than likely add some nose weight. The p-40 arf with a FP-40 or La 40 still comes out slightly tail heavy. Mine has a La 40 although the majority of them at our club have the La.46 in the nose. The Brodak .40 has more power than needed for that plane it is a good engine choice. The engine has the equivalent weight of a Fox.35 and that weight is more like 2.5-3 oz's lighter than the FP or La combo depending on muffler choices. That could get out of control fast if not taken into consideration. I used a nice aluminum spinner on mine which looks real cool and gives it a bit of weight up front. Ken
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Dick, I recently read your post concerning your new Brodak p-40 arf. Is this the engine you intend to use on it? If so, your going to more than likely add some nose weight. The p-40 arf with a FP-40 or La 40 still comes out slightly tail heavy. Mine has a La 40 although the majority of them at our club have the La.46 in the nose. The Brodak .40 has more power than needed for that plane it is a good engine choice. The engine has the equivalent weight of a Fox.35 and that weight is more like 2.5-3 oz's lighter than the FP or La combo depending on muffler choices. That could get out of control fast if not taken into consideration. I used a nice aluminum spinner on mine which looks real cool and gives it a bit of weight up front. Ken
Yes Ken, it is. However, I bought the recommended accessories from Brodak and they specified an aluminum spinner, which was not too cheap. I thought it strange because the same model in a kit form calls for a much cheaper plastic spinner. I have a new EVO36, the Brodak 40, an LA 46, an ST 51 and a 35 year old ST 46 and two OS Max 35s, also 35 years old. Just for kicks, I tried the EVO on the fuselage and it was a real tight fit. I thought the nose ring was going to break. I wouldn't use that engine.
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I just finished breaking in my Brodak 40. Here is a pic of the test stand apparatus I built on the quick and dirty. I used a sawhorse, a 2X4, an old shoe shine kit with the legs and footrest knocked off, and an old award plaque I received years ago for some dastardly deed. Upon that I mounted the fine aluminum Jtec stand and a 6oz Sullivan slant nose clunk tank.
I followed the Brodak instructions to the letter, running the engine without the muffler, at a 2/4 break for a minute or two and then pinching off the fuel supply. After a cool down period of 3-5 minutes, the process was repeated, for a total of 20 cycles of heating and cooling. The cylinder/piston pinch was gone after the third time and this engine will start on the first flip after choking for two prop overs and checking for a bump. What a fine little machine. Lastly, I ran 2 full tanks through it non-stop until a total of 32 ounces of recommended Brodak fuel had been consumed.
Anyway, it seemed like the stand looked almost like a 4-legged fuselage with a boxy tail and a little wing in front.
Hi Dick;
I broke in my B40 per the instructions and now have about 40 flights or so on her. I really think it is just now "coming into it's own". When I flew yesterday all three flights were "first flip starts". That is now becoming more common, and the runs more consistant.
I have very happy with the engine. I think you will be too.
Brian
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I was having difficulty making the pattern initially with 4.5 oz's. The engine started to get better economy as time went on. I was surprised to see this although I read posts that this could happen. I'm a true believer. I had to raise the nose, fuel slowly, tilt the plane, to do whatever was needed to squeeze every last drop in. This was in my Oriental which made tank replacement a little more difficult than a profile. I would just give the engine time though. I find its my only one flip starter I own. I only need to pull one revolution to choke hook up battery and backflip. I found the engine doesn't care for being flipped forward. I just couldn't get the same results as flipping it backwards. Mine seems to be plenty powerful and I've been using a Randy Smith tongue muffler from the start. Good luck on your P-40. Ken