Author Topic: Broken NoblARF Motor Mounts (Read 5403 times)

Garf · « **on:** May 30, 2012, 01:13:47 PM »

Now that I've broken the motor mounts on both my NoblARF #2 and #3, I need to devise a method of replacing the mounts. I don't like the idea of using an R/C mount on the NoblARF bulkhead. If I would have built the plane myself with the idea of using an R/C mount, it would be a different story. I am formulating a plan and will post more later, after I have the Galaxy and Banshee flying.

EddyR · « **Reply #1 on:** May 30, 2012, 02:11:07 PM »

Why not just build a new Nobler body. The ARF bodies are almost always out of alignment. Build it like the 1957 Nobler but do not add the large section under the nose that comes off with the cowl. Build it so the tank can be removed from the front. The plane will fly so much better that you will almost not believe it. I have done two this way for friends. You can recover the wing and tail or leave it in its plastic covering. The plane will fly much much better. It took me two days from start to finish.
Ed

Garf · « **Reply #2 on:** May 30, 2012, 06:57:55 PM »

If I build a new fuselage, it will be a profile.

Brad Smith · « **Reply #3 on:** May 30, 2012, 08:04:11 PM »

check towers bent and broken i picked up a fuse there cheap.

Steve Hines · « **Reply #4 on:** May 30, 2012, 09:52:51 PM »

I would just cut them back 1/4 from the firewall and add a new 1/4 firewall and then a rc motor mount. I have never had a mortor come off yet.

Steve

Scott Richlen · « **Reply #5 on:** May 31, 2012, 01:02:25 PM »

When mine broke I just cut them off flush with the firewall, did a little reinforcement and used an RC mount. Easy as pie!

Scott

Phil Spillman · « **Reply #6 on:** June 01, 2012, 08:55:34 PM »

I'll second Scott's method! Although I do think that my adding another piece of plywood behind and in front of the original may have been a bit too much! However the plane flies as well as or better than the original! I also added triangular pieces vertically behind the rear 1/8th added front piece! I used the Tower Adjustable RC mount!

Scott Richlen · « **Reply #7 on:** June 02, 2012, 04:02:39 PM »

I think that mine was the Brown 20-25 size mount. It fits the Brodak 40 perfectly.

Scott

Garf · « **Reply #8 on:** October 15, 2012, 09:25:14 PM »

I decided to attempt to replace the motor mounts. I took a cutoff tool and cut above and below the original mounts, then applied vice grips to the stubs of the original mounts and removed them. Then I took some replacement mounts and cut slots till it fit. Next I will glue the mounts to plywood and then to the fuselage. From there fitting the engine will be fun.

MarcusCordeiro · « **Reply #9 on:** October 16, 2012, 06:53:18 AM »

I've been rebuilding the nose of my son's ARF Nobler 'cause a crash.
I too removed the old mounts and replaced the bulkheads.
I took advantage of the moment and reinforced everything a little (it's running on¨46LA...)

Sorry for the bad quality pictures

Marcus

Garf · « **Reply #10 on:** February 20, 2013, 02:59:54 PM »

Here is NoblARF #2 after installation of mounts, and before grinding and shaping. It still needs the tank and gear.

Paul Taylor · « **Reply #11 on:** February 20, 2013, 05:34:08 PM »

We did the swap as well. Got a lot of help from my mentor Jim Lynch.
Here is JoAnn holding the results.
Still yet to be flown.

Garf · « **Reply #12 on:** February 21, 2013, 09:03:31 PM »

Tank has been fitted and installed, engine has been fitted. I found the gear. It took a good 15 minutes to straighten the wire.

John Stiles · « **Reply #13 on:** February 22, 2013, 07:17:10 AM »

You gonna go all the way with a new color scheme?

Garf · « **Reply #14 on:** February 22, 2013, 08:10:01 AM »

Not worth the effort. It was enough of a challenge matching the manure kote in paint.

John Stiles · « **Reply #15 on:** February 22, 2013, 09:35:30 AM »

Quote from: Garf on February 22, 2013, 08:10:01 AM

Not worth the effort. It was enough of a challenge matching the manure kote in paint.

I might actually have some of that color "manure" coat!

Want me to check and see how much?

Garf · « **Reply #16 on:** February 23, 2013, 09:01:28 PM »

I have a partial roll of that stuff, but I hate it on fuselages. I will use paint.

John Stiles · « **Reply #17 on:** February 23, 2013, 10:43:27 PM »

Quote from: Garf on February 23, 2013, 09:01:28 PM

I have a partial roll of that stuff, but I hate it on fuselages. I will use paint.

Okay then....I was thinking about getting that blue off mine too.

Cya around

Garf · « **Reply #18 on:** February 24, 2013, 06:07:06 PM »

Have a look at how close a match I got using Home Depot house paint.

http://hangarflying.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=wire&action=display&thread=3713&page=2

Garf · « **Reply #19 on:** February 27, 2013, 09:17:58 PM »

I have just installed the lower tank cover and gear. I hope the gear never gets broken. They are now part of the fuselage.

Garf · « **Reply #20 on:** February 28, 2013, 04:02:25 PM »

Front end has been cleaned up and the first coat of blue paint has been applied.

Garf · « **Reply #21 on:** March 01, 2013, 11:39:23 AM »

The EVO 36 is a good bit heavier than what was on it before plus the weight gain from the repairs. I will check it after it's together. I modified the EVO with the new Fox NVA to get the pickup and adjuster where I wanted it. I hope it works.

Avaiojet · « **Reply #22 on:** March 01, 2013, 12:13:32 PM »

Garf,

Great job fixing that Nobler. Kudos!

Can't believe the color match, looks right on the money!

You said Home Depot paint. What did you use and will it be fuel proff?

Outstanding!!

Charles

Garf · « **Reply #23 on:** March 01, 2013, 06:01:33 PM »

If you had read the entire article, you would know it was home depot custom mixed house paint, water based, which is not fuel proof and in fact came out flat. It has an overcoat of clear polyurethane spar varnish, which IS completely fuel proof.

Avaiojet · « **Reply #24 on:** March 01, 2013, 06:24:22 PM »

Quote from: Garf on March 01, 2013, 06:01:33 PM

If you had read the entire article, you would know it was home depot custom mixed house paint, water based, which is not fuel proof and in fact came out flat. It has an overcoat of clear polyurethane spar varnish, which IS completely fuel proof.

Gee Garf,

Sorry I missed that.

I'll try to do better as your Thread progresses.

Is that clear polyurethane spar varnish, the stuff used on floors?

Didn't know it was fuel proof?

I tried to use the water based stuff as a substitute for dope. With poor results.

You're Nobler is still looking much better!

Outstanding!

Charles

Garf · « **Reply #25 on:** March 05, 2013, 04:15:56 PM »

The engine has been run. Rock steady. More than enough power, maybe too much. C.G. is forward of NoblARF #3. How much is unclear. If it is too much will only be answered by a test flight.

Garf · « **Reply #26 on:** March 09, 2013, 04:11:57 PM »

NoblARF #2 ready to go again.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #27 on:** March 10, 2013, 08:31:24 AM »

As I posted on Hangerflying, that EVO is one powerful engine. Had to add one ounce of lead to tail of my ARF Nobler with no cowl.