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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Andrew Saunders on August 09, 2014, 07:31:01 PM
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Well today i decided since its raining and i can't do any flying so i might as well start building. its my first full fuselage build. Decided to use the Fuselage jig i received from the beginner NATS last year. I took the metal L brackets and tightened them down. Then using a square on the jig, squared everything up. Then i put balsa blocks on the brackets to keep the jig from gouging my fuselage sides. So far i have everything in the jig squared up and straight. Its only a dry fit. Tomorrow i will start Gluing all the bulkheads in. Gonna use Tight bond wood glue to glue everything together. Any advice would be helpful during this build. I am building to accept a pipe . But right now, the pipe tunnel underneath will be covered. Then if i decide to go to a piped engine, i can go back and modify the plane for the piped engineGonna use an Evolution 60 NX that was reworked by byron barker. Great running engine. Or i may change my mind and try something else. Not too sure yet. I will be seeking help from fellow club members also. Probably gonna use the 4 inch tom Morris bellcrank and leadouts. Not sure yet. Also gonna use carbon fiber push rods also.I will be posting pics and maybe some video as i go. I will take my time, follow the book and plans and get this plane built right.
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Well today i decided since its raining and i can't do any flying so i might as well start building. It's my first full fuselage build.
First fuselage plane, welcome to the club. #^
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I'll be following along with your build also. Can that fuselage jig be purchased anywhere? I like it.....Gene
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Get yourself some plastic drafting angles at Hobby Lobby or an office supply.
They're alot easier to manage than a roofing square, smaller too.
That jig looks great! Who makes it?
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Two thoughts since you asked: From the bottle, Tite-Bond is very thick. It does not penetrate the wood fibers and often only adheres to the surface of balsa, making the joint weak. Thin it out with water. Avoid Tite-bond II, it doesn't sand well or use Sig-Bond which I have found superior to the other Alphitic Resin glues. (mileage may vary).
Fuselage: At this point decide which engine you are going to use and tailor the model for it. The Barker Evo 60 is at great choice, (have one, flown it, like it). If you read the plans closely the fuselage sides can be cut down if a side exhaust engine is used. Do it. It will result in a lighter plane (important) that flies better and IMHO, looks better. This setup can take you up through Intermediate and into Advanced. 8)
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Balsa butcher I have read where it talks about cutting down the sides by taking a 1/4 of an inch between bulkheads 2 and 6. But when I look at the plans I'm not to clear on how exactly its suppose to be cut
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On my plans the note is just in front of the tail wheel diagram. It is a little hard to understand. It directs you to trim the fuselage side by 1/8" between the F2 and F6 bulkhead. This allows you to continue with the 1/8" bottom cross grain sheeting that starts behind the F6 bulkhead in the tuned pipe fuselage. The 1/4 longeron is moved up 1/8 of an inch so it carries through at the same level as the longeron that starts at the F6 bulkhead to the end of the fuselage side.
Tip regarding the longeron: It is a 1/4 square stick. Often the balsa sticks in kits are very hard ie: heavy. may be OK of it is going to be a wing spar however here lighter is definitely better. If the kit wood longeron is heavy, cut a new one out of some light 1/4 sheet. Additionally, shape it to a triangular cross section either before installation of after with an Xacto circular blade. This will lighten it by half and it will still be strong enough for its purpose. Having a 1/4" longeron and 1/8" fuselage sides will allow you to sand a very round contour to the bottom of the fuselage. Lighter and it impresses appearance judges over a square, box shape. 8)
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Gene and Doug, i won that fuselage jig at the beginner nats. It was made and donated by a man from Canada named wes. If ya like, i can take pictures and measurements of it and post in on here.
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Hi Andrew,
Welcome to the full fuselage club! ;D I do believe you will really like the Legacy. It is a very good flying model. The Evo .60 should be a good fit!
Good luck!
Bill
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The "Legacy" was the 2nd full fuselage stunt plane I was halfway succesfull with. Mine flys great with a ST. 51. Probably the first full fuselage stunt that didn't intimadate me. I built it right out of the box with exception that I put a 1/8" ply brace where the fuselage and leading edge meet. Bolted down to hardwood moter mount wood otherwise there is a tendancy for vibration at that point.
Don
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Are there any other build threads on this plane?
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Andrew, no need to take measurements for me. Stay on your build! #^ Gene
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Andrew,
I've built a couple Legacy planes and have two tips for you.
The first deals with the wire wing gear. See the post that I made below.
Re: How do I stop my plane tipping over?
« Reply #9 on: March 07, 2010, 07:42:29 PM »
Wynn,
That is one fine looking Legacy you have. Glad to hear that you found the cure for the nosing over problem. I had the same problem with my first Legacy and have seen others dealing with this same issue. I think I found the cause of this problem when I compared my kit-supplied landing gear legs against the plans. You can see in the attached photo that the kit-supplied landing gear was bent to match the plan's rear view instead of the side view. This error results in a landing gear leg that is over 1/4 inch too short and also doesn't locate the tire far enough forward. You could just bend the kit-supplied gear forward but then you would probably have a prop clearance problem. However, you found the cure (which is to make new gear that is both longer and locates the tires further forward).
I bet you're going to have a lot of fun with your Legacy. They are a great flying airplane.
The second tip involves the leadout cables.
I found that the forward cable was actually rubbing on the inboard landing gear block. Unfortunately, on my first Legacy I had already sheeted the wing leading edge and couldn't easily acces the point of interference. On my second Legacy build I cut away the offending point of interference before sheeting the wing leading edge.
Enjoy your Legacy.
DennisV
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Got the fuselage Bulkheads glued is while in the fuselage jig. Looked at it all today . From the bottom it looks real good. Flip it over and it looks out . tomorrow i will set it on the plans and see whats goin on. May have to do some cutting and regluing. Gotta make it right. This has been a learning experience so far. Tonight i have started on the elevator Stab. Very easy piece to build. What is the best way to shape the leading edge so that its consistant and even?
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As I fly mainly off grass I usually put larger wheels on any of the planes I build. As far as your fuselage did you put any diagonals between the formers. If you looks at some of the builds in the building section you will see a lot of that.
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Well luckily i was able to put the fuselage down on the plans and saw it was about 1/8 of an inch off. Do i took a long exacto blade and cut the glue joints between the fuselage sides and the diagnol bulkheads and cleaned off the old glue. Realigned the fuselage to the plans and reglued the joints and "Voila"!!! A nice straight fuselage!!
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Well heres the elevator Stab. Like i said im taking my time on this build. This is my first full fuselage build and want it to come out as nice as possible.
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I did my self a huge favor and bought the Brodak ARF Legacy From Kathy Brickhaus. This plane will allow me to look at it and make sanding jigs to shape the legacy im building . I'm also gonna assemble the ARF and fly it, Will post picks of that on here also. Gonn make some needed Mods., to it that people have suggested to make to it.
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I've finally have all the supplies to start building the wing. I desperately need to clean up my shop/work area before i start though. Cant stand the mess.
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Is that plane done yet?
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Is that plane done yet?
Wing started?
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Finally started on the wing today. I had to take 1 1/2 hours just to set my work bench up to start the wing build. So far no problems. I wanted to use my wing jig but the rib cutouts wouldnt allow me to. All good though. Followed the instruction book and building is going great.
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Look'n good Andrew!
See you at the club contest Saturday!
Keep up the great work & "Tight Lines!" H^^
Wes
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While i was gluing the trailing edge sheeting on on the wing, i decided im not gonna do the landing gear on the wing. Im gonna do a carbon fiber gear on the fuselage, Has anyone else done this? Do you have build pics on the mounting system? What made me decide to do this is not only weight but numerous people saying they have had issues with rollover. What Length should the CF Gear be?