brodak galaxy

[scott matthews]

Hello everyone, my new galaxy kit arrived in the mail today and as I am reading the plans and instruction book they say to use a .19 to  .40 engine. I have already ordered a OS 25 LA and I am wondering if this engine is going to have enough power. This plane does not look big enough to handle a .40 size motor. Any input on the OS 25 moter and its performance is greatly appreciated. Thanks Scott

[john e. holliday]

That OS LA .25 will be plenty of power.  Build the plane light and straight.  I use 10-4 props on my LA 25 flying on a Primary Force.

[scott matthews]

Thanks John for your advise. I have a couple of other questions for you. First off is this motor comparitable to an older super tigre .35 or a fox .35 in pulling power, because I have a couple of early 70's super tigre that my dad owned but they are getting hard to find parts for. Second, should I still use 60' control lines with this set up or do I need to go shorter. And last I planned on running this engine on muffler pressure or should I just use a uniflow tank and plug the over flow tube and leave open the fill tube. Thanks Scott

[Steve Helmick]

Thanks John for your advise. I have a couple of other questions for you. First off is this motor comparitable to an older super tigre .35 or a fox .35 in pulling power, because I have a couple of early 70's super tigre that my dad owned but they are getting hard to find parts for.

The Super Tigres (.35's) will make more power and vibrate a lot more. Plus, mufflers are maybe harder to fit on.

Second, should I still use 60' control lines with this set up or do I need to go shorter.

Plan on using .012" braided lines. Start with 58' eye to eye and be prepared to clip them down a foot or two.

And last I planned on running this engine on muffler pressure or should I just use a uniflow tank and plug the over flow tube and leave open the fill tube.

I was skeptical of muffler pressure, but I've come to like it. If you have trouble with leaky tanks and mufflers coming loose, you might have another opinion.

There are some props that I found that worked well on the .25LA-S (Skyray 35). The 9-4 APC is a good baseline, and a good break-in prop. I liked a 9-4 Graupner just as well or better...a lot more flywheel effect. The 9.5 x 4.5 APC is not easy to find, but is said to be a good prop for the .25LA. I got one, but haven't tried it yet. The 10-4 APC is said to work well. The 10-4 TF Power Point is not a bad choice, but the one I use is definitely not stock. I had no joy with a Zinger 10-4, and it was also not stock. A Master Airscrew 10-4 Scimitar might be worth a try.

I eventually drilled my .25LA-S venturi out to .272", which also happens to be the size I run on my XLS .36...kinda big for the .25. But, I knew I could "downsize" it by going to a Bruline filter, and I was going to fly in Reno ('07) and knew it needed more suds. I haven't put a filter on it yet, even at sea level.

You may hate the way the engine starts, needles, and quits at the end of the tank. 86'ing the rear NV is part of that. The tank needs to be shimmed out at the back, and the LO's need to be adjusted to tune the plane's yaw.

Be sure to build it straight and light. Very, very slight rudder offset, and a little engine offset...you want to fly tangent, not yawed out.  The slight rudder is to make sure it's not "in". The engine offset will help a lot to get the lines tight quickly, if they go slack.  Steve

[Dennis Moritz]

I've a Brodak Galaxy that has been a fun, versatile flier for five years plus. Definitely compatible with older style 35s, as well as new ABC 40s and 25s. I've powered mine with various FP40s and Tower40s. It's been used to test engines meant for stunt, as well as run flat out as a fun fast sport plane. I've flown it now and then in competition where it does all right in Intermediate. Biggest issue is landing. The short coupled fues is not conducive to a smooth approach and greasing the wheels. Not as accurate or smooth as a full stunter when doing the tricks. But it'll work in a pinch. It is a reliable friend, easy enough to fly no matter the weird winds. The big flapper in the back will over power the turn and stall the bird. Adds to it's charm. I flew the full pattern for the first time with this Galaxy. Bolt on a powerful 35 or 40 and you've got an early 60s combat plane. Fly it slow with 35 or 40 running rich, or an LA25 and you've got a capable bird for learning George's mantra (THE PATTERN!). Same as a Flite Streak. I love the pterodactyl look.

[Dennis Moritz]

Chicken hoppers work well if there are no leaks. Uniflo is a plus if it will work on your build. I almost always use muffler pressure. Mainly for the consistency of pressure going into the tank. Every build makes it's own vibe. Bad vibes are often exaggerated by uniflo. Test your tank for leaks by pressurizing the tank and immersing in water. Any tell tail line of bubbles needs to be fixed. Even a pinhole leak can cause havoc with an engine run. New tanks are not exempt. Test. If your engine run suddenly goes sour, check the tank.

I always flew this plane on .015s. But I never powered downed with an LA25.

[scott matthews]

If you 86 the remote needle valve on this engine what kind of needle valve assembly do you use thru the venturi?

[Leester]

Use the 20-40 OS part # 22311000 Tower sells them or there are others.

[Steve Helmick]

My .25LA uses a K&B NV Assy., very similar to those used in the old days, but probably the hardest to get of all the .156" spraybars on the market. It works fine, but a crash bends or breaks the spraybar, tho the NV itself will probably survive! MECOA does sell these, if they have 'em in stock. I think they're #2918 or somethin' like that. Looks like the new MECOA/K&B has cropped down their line of K&B's yet more...<sigh>.  The Randy Smith/Aero Products NV Assy. is my #1 favorite, by a bunch. The ST Clones work ok, as do genuine ST parts. OS NV Assy's work ok, but when you crash them, they can look good, but work very erratically. I would rather it be obviously broken & DOA. 

Care must be taken with the plastic backplate, OBTW. Replacing it with a metal one (OS .25FP, TT .25GP, or Curtis Shipp's barstock unit) can save some hassles. If the engine starts but stops after it gets hot, it could be the backplate leaking when heated. Some apparently crack. Putting flat washers under the screw heads would help, sealer might help, etc. I'd rather fix it once, at home, and just fly it at the field, so I replace the plastic ones.  Steve

 

[scott matthews]

What makes the remote nva so bad on this engine, is it vibration and losses its setting ? Also does the plastic back plate always become a problem because if so I can make on out of aluminum at work ( one of the perks of being a machinist ).Putting these few things aside is this engine a descent investment because it should show up tomorrow from tower hobbies ? I was under the impression that this is todays replacement for years ago .35 size engines.

[wwwarbird]

 Scott,

 Please pardon my emphasis here, but I cannot stress these basic points enough. The best thing you can do as a beginner or "retread" is KEEP IT SIMPLE. DO NOT OVERTHINK THINGS. The more things you try to change, the more potential headaches you set yourself up for.

 The Galaxy will fly just fine on a bone stock LA-.25 and is a great choice. I'd suggest a 9X6 prop, that's what I use on them, but a 10X4 would probably work OK too. Just do like Doc says and focus on building the plane as straight and as light as your abilities allow. The better aligned your model is, the better it will fly, period. Weight is also a concern, always keep it in mind, but straight will help things immensely. Also focus on setting up a nice smooth operating control system. For general and/or beginner purposes, the ONLY reason you would need to change out the remote NVA is if you don't have enough room for the fuel tank. I have run many LA's with the stock remote NVA and unless damaged, they work just fine and are actually very user friendly. If you do decide to change it out, use the one Leester suggests above from Tower Hobbies, easy to obtain and they work well. It's a factory O.S. item and you can still use the stock venturi with it too.

 There are a bazillion different opinions on all this stuff, but until you learn what you like, you will typically be wise to revert to basics, and K-I-S-S.

[scott matthews]

Thanks for the advice everyone and yes I will for now stick with the KISS plan.

[Dennis Moritz]

Are you near a control line club? A big plus to fly with folks.

[Garf]

I have had 2 of these. My favorite engine for it is the small shaft Johnson 35. Any older 35 would work well. The new 25's will work if everything is right. I like a little more power.

[Bill Little]

Thanks for the advice everyone and yes I will for now stick with the KISS plan.

HI Scott,

I am merely agreeing with the points most have made.  Keep it as light as "possible", but don't sacrifice any strength.  An "out of the box" build is fine unless you find a REALLY heavy piece of wood somewhere! LOL!! it will fly better that way.  A heavy profile of that size isn't the best of worlds.  I am not sure if the kit includes an adj. LO guide, but use one if at all possible, along with a tip weight box.  Build in half the weight suggested, permanently, and then add the rest to the box.  I'm not sure as to the elevator horn included in the kit, but one that has several holes and starting with the one farthest from the hinge line is a good idea.  You can solder on a Dubro threaded coupler to the end of the push rod and use a ball link.  That will be all the adjustment you need for the elevator possible in the future.  And make sure there is a fairlead on the pushrod if you use music wire.

The OS .25LA will be a very good engine for that model.  I would get a uniflow wedge and run muffler pressure.  I would also start with a 9-4 APC prop, but a 10-4 APC will work good, too.

The remote NVA can lead to some minor problems in that is isn't as "linear" as a front mount, often causing a delay in the needle setting change.  And a metal back plate is really a "no brainer". 

Either 58' to 60' eye to eye lines to start!

I understand it is a copy of the Flite Streak (before John got the rights to the Flite Streak), so the tips found here for the FS would be applicable, if that is the case.  And it should be a very good flying plane!

Have fun!
Big bear

[Dennis Moritz]

Hi Bill,
Galaxy is an entirely different design from the Flite Streak. Different airfoil, ribs tapering in length, big flapper at the rear, definitely a longer nose moment. Possible to fit a decent sized tank on the Galaxy, not so with a stock Flite Streak. John's Lightnin' Streak, on the other hand, is pretty much a Flite Streak knock-off. Same constant chord airfoil, similar moments. Top of the rudder and stabilizer tips are lopped off on the Lightnin' Streak, so the two planes have a slight distinction in look. Also the leading edge construction is simplified on the Brodak Streak. No dagger front ribs. An improvement IMHO. Same leading edge construction as the ARF.

[Dennis Moritz]

Out of curiosity I just weighed my Galaxy. Five years plus and the vet was never put on the scales. Nearly 36 ounces now, including a 3.75 ounce chicken hopper and a Tower 40 with a tongue muffler. Porky for a Flite Streak with an LA 25. ARF Flite Streaks, the hollow fues wonders, usually come in around 27 ounces or less. The ARF Streak with an LA 25 is, in my experience, an excellent match of power to weight and design. Makes for a mild handling stunt trainer. (Until the nose falls off.) The Galaxy I built is probably representative of a kit plane. It used the wood in the box. Finish is monokote wings, dope everywhere else. A significant difference in build weights. Could be the Galaxy also has slightly more wing area.

Check the cg of the Galaxy with the LA25. They're lighter than FP40s and the like. This would, of course, bias the cg back, making the plane more tail heavy and quicker handling. I would start out with an LA25 using a stock muffler. It adds weight to the nose.

Different folks have written voluminously on the various stunt threads about powering Streak sized planes with FP20s, 25s and LA25s. The aim is to make a stunt friendly combo, suited to learning the tricks. Skyrays are similarly recommended. Galaxies might be a bit outside of the familiar envelope.

[Dennis Moritz]

Early on in my retread experience, I had crashed EVERYTHING I'd built. (Fair number of birds.) Needing a quick build to get in the air, I bought an ARF Streak, stuck a stock LA25 in the nose, went flying. Plane served me well for a season and a half. Managed to fly myself out of beginner using that combination. The plastic back plate was not a problem during that time. The remote needle on the other hand was replaced early on. Got some debris in the 90 degree bend, had trouble flushing it out. Gurus in my club   insist the remote needle hanging out in the back causes issues. So I swapped in a stock FP 25-40 replacement. Much easier to flush. Also, some believe  ,  less prone to amplifying the dreaded profile bad vibe.

[Bill Little]

Hi Bill,
Galaxy is an entirely different design from the Flite Streak. Different airfoil, ribs tapering in length, big flapper at the rear, definitely a longer nose moment. Possible to fit a decent sized tank on the Galaxy, not so with a stock Flite Streak. John's Lightnin' Streak, on the other hand, is pretty much a Flite Streak knock-off. Same constant chord airfoil, similar moments. Top of the rudder and stabilizer tips are lopped off on the Lightnin' Streak, so the two planes have a slight distinction in look. Also the leading edge construction is simplified on the Brodak Streak. No dagger front ribs. An improvement IMHO. Same leading edge construction as the ARF.

Hi Dennis,

Thank you!  I had a "Senior Moment" plus I am currently suffering from a sinus infection.  No excuses though! LOL!!  I remember, now that you have pointed it out, what the Galaxy is, but I do not remember the name of the original manufacturer!  And I have seen the original kit Galaxy.........  And the Lighting Streak is the Brodak kit i was thinking of referring to the "knock off".

[Steve Helmick]

Guillows was the original manufacturer of the "Galaxy" kit. Somebody told me recently that we all pronounce Guillows wrong, but I don't recall who, or the correct pronunciation. Most say "Gill_Ohz", so maybe it's "Gwill-Ohz", or "Gwee_lohz"?  Steve

[Dennis Moritz]

A fairly short lived company CLS, something like that, produced a Galaxy as well. Guess they purchased the rights from Guillow. Brodak, I believe, then purchased the rights from the second company. Had one of the CLS(?) kits. Different build structure but same outline. The Brodak kit is far superior. Better wood more accurately cut. I also prefer JB's structural ideas. The Brodak kit I build had diecut parts. Brodak is switching over to laser cutting. Laser parts, of course, tend to be more accurately cut. A nifty update. I recently purchase a set of Bro Streak ribs. Nicely burnt laser outlines. The Buster ribs, purchased at the same time, were still die punch. Guess after the old stock sells off, everything will be zitssed.

[scott matthews]

Santa Claus came today and I got my engine. First impression is that it is a little smaller than an old super tigre .35 I hope it has similar power.But after installing a prop on it and flipping it over a few times the compression seems really good.The one thing that seemed out of sorts is the size of the factory muffler which is also the size of the mufflers that are on my 2 os .40 engines. I was kind of expecting a second venturi like my .40's have but it only came with one I guess this is the standard with this motor.Over all it looks like a well engineered motor. The weather is suppose to be in the 50's tomorrow do you think its too cold to bench run it once?

[Bill Little]

50 degrees is definitely not going to hurt the engine when bench running.

Since you have been out of this for a while (which I an guessing from your reference to the "old" St .35), you will be surprised to find out that the "modern" engines are, on the whole, MUCH more powerful than a vintage engine of the same displacement. 

As an example: Dave Hemstraught (designer of the Midwest kitted PT-19 Stunter, circa 1960) was recently flying an ARF Nobler in Classic using a OS .25LA, and it was powering the model just fine.  Back when Dave was on the Nationals scene, he was among the best, and still flies real good!  He wouldn't fly something that is "underpowered".

Don't worry about that "little" .25 not being enough engine for the Galaxy unless you build it WAY over weight!

[phil c]

Thanks for the advice everyone and yes I will for now stick with the KISS plan.

The Galaxy will fly just fine on the stock LA 25, even with the remote needle valve.  An 8/4 prop is even enough prop.  The small prop doesn't overload the engine so it will run a very reliable 4 stroke and still run fast enough to take advantage of the muffler tuning.