Hockey Sticks

[Vincent Judd]

So how many 1/4" sticks does one have to purchase to get 4 good ones to build a wing with?  I'd rather not mention the supplier, as I'm not trying to throw anyone under the bus, but it's one of the big companies. 

I recently ordered 10 sticks, along with some other sheeting in various sizes. 

Upon unwrapping, 4 of the 10 1/4" X 1/4" pieces looked like hockey sticks.  Bent and twisted.  They immediately went in the trash.  3 weren't as bad, but far from straight, I plan on using them to start fires in my fireplace over the winter.  Only two of the ten actually measured anything close to .250 square, most were something like .262 X .240, far from square.

One piece that was nice and straight was too hard to safely stick a pin through, maybe that's why it was so straight. I'm thinking of using that piece to build a crossbow.

Bottom line is I ended up with one piece that I could actually use.  Did I just get a bad batch of sticks, or have others found similar problems when purchasing wood sticks? 

I know that balsa getting harder and harder to come by, maybe I have my sights set too high.  I'd like to build a nice straight wing, starting with crooked sticks didn't seem like a good way to do it.

I have a nice table saw, is it possible to make my own sticks by ripping some 1/4" sheets?  The last time I tried that, I ended up with a bunch of nice hockey sticks as well.  They looked great when I first ripped them, but after a few days, they were awful,  must have something to do with the grain of the wood or maybe the moon's gravitational pull on our planet.

Thanks

To be completely fair, the sheeting that I received was beautiful and certainly in the 4-6 lb range that I requested.  No problems there at all. 

[Dan McEntee]

  When you cut sheet into sticks with a saw, you create and relieve stresses in the wood that cause curving and bowing. Some when it it cut, some that creeps in as the wood continues to dry out, or take on moisture. I think it is quite rare to get any consistency in cutting small sticks and getting them straight with a saw of any kind. You are much better off stripping them by hand with a proper stripper, or knife and straight edge, but you will still get some bowing sometimes. It is also possible to straighten sticks. I just drag them over the edge of the table, while bowed in the direction I want them to go. Sometimes I get it on first try, sometimes it take a couple of passes, but always works for me. You just have to learn to work with it and  work around it.
  Good luck and have fun,
   Dan McEntee

[Dave_Trible]

Always been a problem.  I usually order two dozen and hope for 4-5 I will use.  I have in the past started with a 1/2" or larger piece and trimmed a little off each side until I got a straight part.  I comb the balsa racks at Michaels and Hobby Lobby.  Sometimes you get lucky and find a few straight ones.  I'm sure the hobby shop hates it when I head for the wood rack.

Dave

[rich gorrill]

If the supplier you used begins with an S and ends with a G just call them. I had problems with the wood in a kit, called and got a nice customer service lady, told her my problem and had a new profile fuse. and new sticks in three days. If it's not them call anyway. Most places have great customer service.

Rich

[Allan Perret]

You will have better results cutting or striping sticks from sheets if you start with a sheet that has straight grain.

[john e. holliday]

If the pieces are for the top and bottom spars of a wing, I match the pieces so they oppose each other.   I have yet to find a really straight piece of balsa in the smaller sizes of square.   Have to learn how to use what you have when on a budget.

[Gerald Arana]

Send ALL your crooked wood to me! 

And this is what I'll do with it......................."LAMINATE IT" 

Works for me

Jerry

[SteveMoon]

I never buy sticks. It is much more economical and you get better results
buying sheets and then using a stripper, such as the one Master Airscrew
makes, to cut your sticks.

Steve

[FLOYD CARTER]

I have always used spruce 1/4" square for wing spars.  They almost always come very straight, and they don't warp after the wing is built.  Spruce weighs only a tad more than heavy balsa, but the lack of other problems makes spruce very attractive.

Floyd

[Bob Reeves]

Really doesn't matter, that flimsy 1/4 inch spar is not going to keep the wing straight or cause a warp. That is the job of the sheeting, if it's held straight when the sheeting is glued on the spar will stay straight.

Using spruce just adds unnecessary weight.

[Serge_Krauss]

I too visit the stores selling balsa sticks - just to hunt through their collections. From every 50 or so, I'll find perhaps one that happens to be straight enough and a couple more that can be used with care. Heavy ones are most likely to be straight. The problem is aggravated by the low balsa sales in this pre-built environment. Restocking is infrequent, and what's left is poor. I've made my own, but starting with straight grain is a must. As pointed out, internal stresses almost always guarante that a straight edge will become bowed when a piece is cut away. So I often cut oversize and narrow them in progressive opposing steps. I designed a "simple" beamed stunt wing a couple years ago and then spent a couple days making straight solid spars.  I've pretty much decided to make built-up or laminated spars next time I try this. Oh, and ordering straight spar materials from a couple hundred miles away didn't "make it"; I watched as the spars bowed when unpackaged in different weather/climate. I don't remember having such severe problems 40-50 years ago. The spruce solution is viable.

[Gerald Arana]

I prefer "BASS" wood over spruce. It is much easier to work and about the same strength.

Build light and ballast up!

Jerry