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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: steven yampolsky on January 30, 2011, 02:47:09 PM
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Is there such a thing as a liquid one can could use to level a table surface. Once poured, the liquid would level itself absolutely flat and then dry up to a hard surface one could use to build?
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Yes there is. It is called casting resin. Restrants use it for there tables. Usually there is an exotic wood table top.
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Even if there is, I'm not sure that I would trust it to be absolutely flat everywhere if that's what you're thinking.
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Why not just get a nice sheet of tempered glass?
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Hi Steve,I don't know if floor leveling compound would work but you might look into that.Also you can get that thick Epoxy that people put on plaques for a finish.It's self leveling.It would be VERY expensive but if your table was level as possible before you start it might cost too much.The easiest way is to get a solid core flat interior door.You can pick up a scratch and dent cheap and put the scratched up side facing down.1/2" plate glass works well too.Hope that helps.Jeff
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Why not just get a nice sheet of tempered glass?
That's what I did and it works great, mine is 1/2" thick. As an added bonus you can cut on it too without damaging it, if you're not a caveman. ;D
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I don't think ANY building surface can top Windy Urtnowski's tombstone! ;D H^^
George
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I had the opportunity to get a 60" x 24" chunk of water cut granite 2" thick from a local stone supplier. Guaranteed to be absolutely flat. Might have done it but the thing weighs a ton (almost literally) and I couldn't figure out how to get it from the stone cutter to my shop so I passed. I'll survive with a flat bench and a half inch thick chunk of glass.
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One of the members of the Knights of the Round Circle is a professional tile guy. He demoed the floor leveling compound, and it really does settle out FLAT and LEVEL. You might have to dress the edges, but the main area comes out perfect.
Of course you have to have your workbench on a very stable surface for this kind of accuracy to be worthwhile. An attic with a wooden floor is not going to have a good history.... S?P
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I don't think ANY building surface can top Windy Urtnowski's tombstone! ;D H^^
George
Windy's gone? I just got email from him today.
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Steve,
The 3/8" to 1/2" glass top is works very good, is fast to install and can be glued to and cleaned easily. If you have a working surface you can put down a sheet of cardboard under the glass and then use shims from playing cards (or something similar) to make slight adjustments to the edges to get it perfectly flat. the problem with the resin approach is you will need to have edge strips around you table to contain the material. It will level in only the location you make the pour at so if you move the table you have to level by shimming the legs (like the restaurants do). Either will work but IMHO glass is better.
Best, DennisT
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Hi Steven,
If you are looking for a "permanent" surface, the casting resin Chuck mentioned will lay out as perfectly flat as anyone could expect. It is also pretty resistant to everything. I would use a cutting mat for protection (not necessary most times with glass). Since it is very "liquid" when poured, and it takes a while to cure, it WILL lay out "flat" (AND level). It necessitates a "curb" being used around the surface you're covering, which has to be sealed to keep the resin "in place".
Has anyone ever seen calm water that was not perfectly flat or level????? The resin is the same.......... it just sets up hard!
OH, yeah, there is a polyurethane made for this purpose, also.
AS an aside: I helped a friend of mine "resurface" the top of the main "bar" in a club he bought. The resulting surface was ~3/8"-1/2" thick over the existing bar top. We had to level the top of the bar BEFORE we poured the resin. It was over 1" out of level over a 12' span. We shimmed it up pretty level, built a lip and poured the resin. It will take sledge hammers and chisels to remove it, and it will destroy the bar top to do so! LOL!!
It wouldn't seem possible to get any surface more level or flat, even with the best "machining equipment". Mother Nature is hard to beat with man made equipment.
Big Bear
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TERMS; OK LETS SEE LEVELING IS TO HAVE AN OBJECT WITH NO DEFLECTION OF THE BUBBLE DEAD CENTER. THAT WOULD GIVE YOU A LEVEL SUFACE IN ONE DIRECTION ONLY NOW TO GET IT LEVEL 90 DEGREES AWAY FROM THE PREVIOUS POSITION YOU WOULD REPEAT THE PROCESS AGAIN. YOU CAN SEE THAT EACH ADJUSTMENT WILL EFFECT THE OTHER. AFTER MANY ADJUSTMENTS YOU WOULD HAVE A PERFECTLY LEVEL SUFACE BUT IT MAY NOT BE FLAT. FLATNESS IS A DIFFERENT MATER ALL TOGETHER. I FORGET THE PROPER TERM FOR WHAT WE ARE TALKING ABOUT BUT THERE IS A TERM AND MACHINIS KNOW IT. THE ITEMS THEY MAKE THAT ARE LAPPED FOR FLATNESS USE THE TERM. SORRY I FORGET THE NAME. OK NOW I AM SURE THAT THIS IS NOT WHAT STEVE IS TALKING ABOUT. HE WANTS TO POUR A LIQUID ON TO HIS FUTURE OR PRESENT WORK SURFACE AND HAVE IT LAY OUT A PERFECTLY FLAT SURFACE. THE BEST WAY TO DO THIS IS WITH A CASTING RESIN. IN MY OPINION THIS WOULD MAKE THE BEST POSSIBLE SURFACE YOU CAN GET. ONCE SET THIS TABLE ASSUMMING IT IS A TABLE TOP CAN BE MOVED ANYWHERE YOU WANT. IT WILL REMAIN FLAT FOREVER!!!!!!!!SO SQUARE UP YOUR TABLE TOP AND PUT EDGES AROUND IT SO THE RESIN DOESN'T RUN OUT (LEAK) MIX THE RESIN AND POUR IT ON. 24 HOURS LATER YOU WILL HAVE THE SURFACE AS PERFECT AS YOU CAN GET IT.
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A granite surface plate is the best and quickest solution. A bit pricey but flat and portable.
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A granite surface plate is the best and quickest solution. A bit pricey but flat and portable.
Well, maybe.......... ;D
But since Steven was asking abut a "bench leveling liquid" surface, we trying to STAY ON TOPIC.
If not, "I" would recommend a well built table with a 1/2" tempered glass plate on top and "shimmed" flat to with in a sheet of typing paper. That's basically what I have (A 4' X 8' old billiards table) and it is accurate well beyond the needs of any model airplane construction. You can CA parts to it and remove them with no problems, etc..
I have absolutely NO CLUE as to how, or why, a "granite slab" could be any better........
Big Bear