fuel tanks

[Bootlegger]

  Fellow's when you build a metal tank, what kind of solder, and where do you get it, do you use?
 I have been told that stay brite silver solder works well, but don't know where to get it.
 Need size, content of metals, what sort of heat do I need, not a torch, but a 100-140 watt gun, is what I'll be using.
  Any suggestions will be appreciated...

[Tim Wescott]

I use 50-50 plumber's solder.  But I don't have more than a season on my various tanks, maybe I'll regret not using something stronger.

[BillLee]

Gil, you can get Stabrite at virtually any hobby shop. And your gun will be sufficient to make it work.

Bill

[Bob Reeves]

Only thing I've found StaBrite good for is using the flux to solder stainless needle valves. It's horrible stuff to work with and the flux Will corode/rust anything withen 3 feet of where you are using it.

Go to Radio Shack and buy a roll of rosin core 60/40 solder and if they have it a small container of rosin flux. Good old tin/lead solder is plenty strong enough for anything we need to solder, is the easiest to use and won't corode holes in anything you don't quite get all the flux off of.

[Jim Kraft]

I use the 2% silver-bearing solder from Radio Shack. It makes a very shiney joint, and works well for both tanks and electrical joints. It is .022 size wire with rosin core. Try it, you will like it.

[Garf]

The politically correct soldering paste Radio Shack sells today is totally useless. You need industrial grade soldering flux.

[Bob Reeves]

The politically correct soldering paste Radio Shack sells today is totally useless. You need industrial grade soldering flux.

Was afraid that would be the case, I still have two tins of the good stuff made by Kester. Might want to try an electronics parts house, I haven't bought any solder or flux in over 20 years and probably still have enough to last my lifetime.

[Brett Buck]

The politically correct soldering paste Radio Shack sells today is totally useless. You need industrial grade soldering flux.

      I use rosin-core solder, and never any sort of acid flux (and Bob is dead on, the Sta-Brite flux is about the nastiest stuff I have found, good if you want to really solder something that doesn't like it (like chrome) but extremely corrosive). All that acid flux will do is eat the tin off the steel and make it harder to solder than it was in the first place. Regular old 60/40 electronics solder is dandy for tanks and plenty strong enough if you use good technique.

    Brett

[Joe Mig]

The politically correct soldering paste Radio Shack sells today is totally useless. You need industrial grade soldering flux.

That stuff is a tip conditioner for the iron not flux.

[Bootlegger]

  Thanks a lot guy's.  I appreciate all the "tips".. No pun intended..!!   

[Lester Nicholson]

I use the Stay Brite w/ paste and throw their fvlux away - works for me.   Nick

[Clancy Arnold]

After 58 years in electronics I still prefer Kester #44 Rosin core 60/40 solder.
The only problem I have is in waiting until I ran out this year in stead of buying it last year was the price.  Last year it sold for $16.95 per pound, this month I paid $36.95 for a one pound roll.  Well the last roll lasted me for about 15 years. At that rate It will cost me about $2.50 a year.  I also have paste flux and Stainless steel flux.  The Stainless steel flux is ONLY for Spring Steel landing gear construction.  After the landing gear are soldered make a paste of Baking soda and pack it around the solder joint and then wash off with water to neutralize the acid.  Then paint to prevent rust.
Clancy

[Chucky]

Acid core solder and plumbers soldering paste can be used for building tin tanks if you've got nothing else, but they leave corrosive residues that continue to work on the tank until removed and/or neutralized.  With clean tin and tubing (which one should always use), rosin core lead-bearing solder is absolutely the way to go.  It produces much smoother, better looking joints than its silver-bearing counterpart.  With proper soldering equipment, this solder produces sound joints and requires little cleanup to halt the action of the flux.  After assembly, the rosin is easily removed by flushing and wiping the exterior of the tank with acetone or alcohol and there is never a risk of latent corrosion ruining your hard won work. 

[jim ivey]

I'm 70 now, been building tanks since I was 12. I used whatever solder I had available acid core ,rosin core or solid with "nokorode" flux paste. 1/16th or 1/8th makes no difference. Good solder joints are all thats important. Check for leaks . plug off your filler lines put the syringe on fuel line, submerege in a large glrass of water squeeze and watch for bubbles.soon as you have no more leaks. your ready to fly.   jim