BELLCRANK/LEADOUT WIRE TECHNIQUES

[raby fink]

I am ready to put my leadout wires on my Ringmaster, and wanted to know if some of you can offer some of your techniques for attaching the leadout wires to the bellcrank. I have Brodak brand. Also the same question for the end where the lines are attached. Another related question while on the same subject... Is it better to make a 90 bend in the pushrod and then solder it at the bellcrank, or will bending double 90's work. It has been a long time since I built a plane and I want to do it right. Thanks for the help
Raby

[Perry Rose]

Raby, go to http://www.brotherhoodofthering.info  click on How to build a something thread and then  Gold medal RM. There is a picture of the bellcrank/ball link set up. A piece of 4-40 threaded rod is screwed into the link and a carbon tube attached to the rod. Simple, adjustable and removable.

[Bill Gruby]

 Search this forum also, there is a complete with pictures how to on it. The site Perry mentioned also has a complete with pictures how to in its albums by Mark Scarborough. As much as I like the Brotherhood site it is always good to look in house first, after all this is where you asked the question. Have fun.

  "Billy G"   

[Pinecone]

http://www.stunthangar.com/uploads/bellcrank%201.pdf

From the Tips section on the main page.

[Andrew Hathaway]

Everybody has their own answer to how to build a model correctly.  There isn't really a right or wrong answer.  Different needs and preferences play into it.  If you can bend an accurate Z-bend, without damaging the wire pushrod, then a Z-bend might work for you.  Personally I can't bend a Z-bend to save my life.  However I can put a 90* bend in wire, and I don't mind firing up the soldering iron.  I trust my solder joints more then I trust my Z-bend skills, so I solder washers.  I'm assuming your Brodak bellcrank is nylon, if so be extra careful if you use a soldered washer retainer, as the nylon melts easily.  As for the leadouts at the bellcrank end I finish them about like shown in the link above.  The same technique can be used at the line clip end as well.

[Richard Grogan]

  The same technique can be used at the line clip end as well.

Except you dont really need the brass tubing on the line clip ends.The tubing is used on the bellcrank end to act as a bushing to prevent the braided cable from cutting into the nylon/plastic. Usually, brass eyelets/thimbles are used in the loop of these line clip end connectors.Or not. Like Andrew said, there is no one right way, just make sure it's a safe way!

[Jim Thomerson]

The outside wing of my #7 Easy finally blew off and totaled the airplane.  I had been flying it regularly for some seven years. The bellcrank is a 4 inch white plastic one.  The cable leadouts have the large size CA tubing over them where they go through the bellcrank holes.  There is absolutely no wear!.

[Andrew Hathaway]

Except you dont really need the brass tubing on the line clip ends.The tubing is used on the bellcrank end to act as a bushing to prevent the braided cable from cutting into the nylon/plastic. Usually, brass eyelets/thimbles are used in the loop of these line clip end connectors.Or not. Like Andrew said, there is no one right way, just make sure it's a safe way!

Except, if you don't use some form of bushing, the line clips will eventually wear on the cable.  Suitable brass thimbles can be hard to come by unless you order them, while one piece of brass tubing available almost anywhere = 6 pseudo-thimbles.  I burn up my supply of thimbles on flying lines, and .027 cable doesn't wrap around them very well anyway.  The brass tubing also helps hold the leadouts in position while wrapping, making it easier to make them the same finished length.  More then one way to skin a cat, some are just safer, cheaper, easier...

[John Stiles]

http://www.stunthangar.com/uploads/bellcrank%201.pdf

From the Tips section on the main page.

Suhweeeeeet