Battery access hatch?

[Avaiojet]

Battery and onboard gear access hatches?

Magnets, screws? Rubber bands?

On off switches or just plug in the battery and go!

Lots of ways to get this done, how are you set up?

I was going to use four small screws to hold my hatch on, I'm rethinking this because of the time it takes.

Charles

[Keith Miller]

Hi, Charles -
I have a carved canopy as a battery hatch cover - the front has a tongue that slides under a lip at the firewall, and the rear snaps down with a pair of rare earth magnets.  Quick access and very strong.

The entire top forward deck of the fuselage also comes off if needed.  At the front are two CF rods that fit into the firewall with magnets in the middle of the plate and two screws at the very rear.  This allows access to the bellcrank and flap horn.

Using a Hubin timer, no need for an arming switch.  When the battery is plugged in, the ESC is armed but nothing goes until the timer button is pressed and then the programmed delay times out (30 sec for me).

[Avaiojet]

Hi, Charles -
I have a carved canopy as a battery hatch cover - the front has a tongue that slides under a lip at the firewall, and the rear snaps down with a pair of rare earth magnets.  Quick access and very strong.

The entire top forward deck of the fuselage also comes off if needed.  At the front are two CF rods that fit into the firewall with magnets in the middle of the plate and two screws at the very rear.  This allows access to the bellcrank and flap horn.

Using a Hubin timer, no need for an arming switch.  When the battery is plugged in, the ESC is armed but nothing goes until the timer button is pressed and then the programmed delay times out (30 sec for me).

Ya know Keith,

You can have a lot of replies, then you can have only one reply that nails it.

I'd rather have that one reply.

I'm taking your advice Keith, and will use magnets as you suggested. Thanks for the photo also. A fine modeler you are.

 I already have magnets ordered.

I'm thinking a couple of screws for the magnets to sit on for height adjustment, although the hatch/lid is looking mighty fine. So is my first big "E" model.

Still in Klingon Cloaking Mode.

 

[Steve Helmick]

"Using a Hubin timer, no need for an arming switch.  When the battery is plugged in, the ESC is armed but nothing goes until the timer button is pressed and then the programmed delay times out (30 sec for me)."

Everybody I fly with uses an arming plug, and the new rules apparently will require one. Whether you fly contests or not, it's in your best interest to use one, and follow the rules to avoid bodily damage. Electrical stuff is never failsafe enough.   Steve

[Avaiojet]

"Using a Hubin timer, no need for an arming switch.  When the battery is plugged in, the ESC is armed but nothing goes until the timer button is pressed and then the programmed delay times out (30 sec for me)."

Everybody I fly with uses an arming plug, and the new rules apparently will require one. Whether you fly contests or not, it's in your best interest to use one, and follow the rules to avoid bodily damage. Electrical stuff is never failsafe enough.   Steve

Steve,

Thanks for the reply.

I was going to go that root, just plug in the battery, press the timer button, close the lid and head on out. 30 seconds is what I was thinking.

Now is this legal and safe?

Charles

[Mark Scarborough]

NO,, what happens if you trip,, or get distracted,,

[Keith Miller]

NO,, what happens if you trip,, or get distracted,,

1. I recommend no distractions once the timer is started.
2. Walk out to the handle "behind" the lines in case you trip - lines won't catch you.
3. A screwdriver shoved in the grass at the down-line on the handle will ensure the plane won't take off if you're distracted or trip as the start-up timer counts down. (I fly on grass exclusively...)
4. Have a helper hold the plane until you're safely at the handle.

I agree that an arming switch provides a measure of safety, particularly if there are steps needed to "close the hatch" once the battery is plugged in.  For profiles in which the connectors are readily accessible, I don't feel there's any need to add an additional break in the circuit.  If competition rules will require them, I'll put one in.  It's all about safety!

[Tim Wescott]

If competition rules will require them, I'll put one in.  It's all about safety!

Currently the AMA competition rules specify what, but (quite purposely) not how: leaving an airplane unrestrained with the batteries connected at any time results in a disqualification.

How you connect the batteries, how you restrain the plane, how you disconnect them, etc., are all left to the modeler.

In general people solve this with an arming switch on a full fuselage plane, or a dangling pair of connectors on a profile.  They check the plane out in the pits (while holding on), then disconnect.  Then they walk it out to the circle, connect, fly, and then either trust their helper to disconnect, or have their helper hold the plane while they disconnect.

[Keith Miller]

Tim - makes perfect sense!  I should start having a helper restrain it until I'm at the handle.  I've been relying on the timer to be an "electronic stooge", but you make a perfect point.  The model should be restrained any time it's powered.  I preach that at my RC field, and I should be doing exactly the same thing at the CL field.  I will from now on - 
Thanks!

[john e. holliday]

Yes, no matter if it is IC or electric, the plane should be restrained somehow.   A stooge, mechanical or human should be used.   These electronic devices are not 100% fool proof as I have read and seen.   

[Avaiojet]

Yes, no matter if it is IC or electric, the plane should be restrained somehow.   A stooge, mechanical or human should be used.   These electronic devices are not 100% fool proof as I have read and seen.   

Interesting John, the thought of flying alone never crossed my mind.