Balsa Dust?

[Joe Messinger]

Hello,

Since I've gotten back at building and flying c/l planes (from the '60's) these past few years  I've discover that I have an allergic recaction to balsa dust that I never experienced in the past.  Cold like symptoms.  Sore throat, burning eyes and congestion.   It lasts for several days after exposure to the dust.

I wear a dust mask when I'm sanding but that only helps to a point.  I guess the residual dust in the shop plays a role in things.

I'm a carpenter by trade and am exposed to airborn wood dust on a daily basis but have never had any type of reaction to spruce, pine and various other types of wood dust.  Just balsa.

Is this unique to me or do others have this problem? If so, any suggestions that might help?

Thanks,

Joe

[Harry Rice]

Hi Joe,

Are you sanding glued balsa? Is it possible it  may be the cyanoacrylate glue dust which is causing the problem?

Rgds

Harry

[Joe Messinger]

Harry,

No, not any CA involved, just balsa.  I do know several people who have had a reaction to CA glue.  So far, the glue hasn't affected me.

Thanks,

Joe

[RC Storick]

  Start CA-ing parts together ,the CA will weld the nose hairs shut.  End of problem. 

Take it easy on me JUST KIDDING!

[Dick Fowler]

Hi Joe... yes, I get the exact same symptoms. Dust mask helps but not much. Usually takes about three days of being away from the dust before it settles down. I have found that if I start taking the generic equivalent of Clariton for about three days before I start sanding, the problem is reduced to a tolerable level.

CA is starting to have the same effect on me. ARF's are looking better all the time!  

I too heard the problem was pesticides.

[Ralph Wenzel (d)]

I can offer several suggestions, Joe. First, while the facemask dust filters undoubtedly help, I can't stand the !@#$ things! On a more serious note, try:

1) a shop air cleaner. Delta, JET, PEnn State and a bunch of other manufacturers make them for full-scale woodshops. They cost $150 - $400, and will completely filter all the air in an "average" model builder's shop every 10 - 12 minutes.

2) Use a good vacuum with the nozzle near where you're sanding (but not close enough to damage what you're sanding)

3) Buy or build a downdraft sanding table. This can be nothing more than ¼" pegboard (slick side up) with a frame around it and a good vacuum connected to a pickup in the base.

4) Get (and use!) a good vacuum. The best, as far as I'm concerned, is the Fein Turbo II. It's a canister-type vacuum, and looks a bit like a standard smallish ShopVac, but that's the end of the similarity. The Fein is whisper quiet - You could have 10 of 'em running in the same room with you and talk with someone else without raising your voice. They have the most flexible hose I've ever seen on a vacuum - You can tie it in knots and not collapse the hose. And if the hose gets clogged (never happened to me yet) it still won't burn out the main motor, because there's a second motor which powers a fan to cool the vac motor. Not cheap, but worth every penny!

[Joe Messinger]

Hello,

Thanks to all for their help regarding the balsa dust.

I was beginning to think I was the only one with the problem.  I guess I've become more sensitized to the dust each time I sand a plane.  This last time was pretty severe.  Infected sinuses,  heavy congestion, etc.  I didn't feel like doing much of anything for several days after the dust exposure. 

As was suggested, the ARFS are looking better all the time.  I don't have a very good place to work on the planes and although the air filtration systems would no doubt greatly improve things,  I probably couldn't justify the expense.  I have neither the talent, time or money to be a competitive c/l flier.  Just trying to have some fun in my "twilight" years.

Thanks again to all who offered their advice.

Regards,

Joe