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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Ken Culbertson on April 11, 2024, 03:58:25 PM
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Does anybody have any experience with Uxcell or HobbyPark M3 ball links?
Ken
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Ken
I have used the hobby park m3 ball links on my 90 hydros rudder in the past
they worked for me..
never had one fail.
Carl
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Ken
I have used the hobby park m3 ball links on my 90 hydros rudder in the past
they worked for me..
never had one fail.
Carl
I got an order of them in today. They are very free and appear quite strong. Maybe too free, I am concerned about slop.
Also they appear to be identical to the Uxcell. Probably the same store branded.
Ken
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Where did you get them Ken? I surprised that you would use anything other than the proven ball links and control hardware from Central Hobbies. Why take the chance with anything else? Just ask Matt.
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Where did you get them Ken? I surprised that you would use anything other than the proven ball links and control hardware from Central Hobbies. Why take the chance with anything else? Just ask Matt.
You mean this one?
https://www.central-hobbies.com/
My control system requires 10 ball links. I needed some quick that I could use to mock up the controls and make the pushrods. Those were all I could find "next day" delivery on.
Ken
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I discovered a great website that caters to RC Pattern fliers. It has a ton of stuff that we can use, including very high quality ball links. The website is F3A Unlimited.com, and I ordered two packages of Secraft 4-40 brass ball links from them. They are very free and come with standoffs for each link if you have a need for them. They are going in my next build for sure!
Here's a link to the ball links I ordered: https://www.f3aunlimited.com/secraft-ball-link-4-40-qty-10
Later - Bob Hunt
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I discovered a great website that caters to RC Pattern fliers. It has a ton of stuff that we can use, including very high quality ball links. The website is F3A Unlimited.com, and I ordered two packages of Secraft 4-40 brass ball links from them. They are very free and come with standoffs for each link if you have a need for them. They are going in my next build for sure!
Here's a link to the ball links I ordered: https://www.f3aunlimited.com/secraft-ball-link-4-40-qty-10
Later - Bob Hunt
Thanks a bunch for the link. The Ones I just received from HobbyPark are really not for PA and I am just using them as place keepers in the build. I just ordered 2pkgs. If I read it right they will take an M3 bolt - or not. I am trying to go metric on everything and not having much luck. DuBro links will only take a 4-40, an M3 won't fit in the ball - Aggh!
Ken
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Here's a link to the ball links I ordered: https://www.f3aunlimited.com/secraft-ball-link-4-40-qty-10
Later - Bob Hunt
My order came today and they are beautiful. So free but I can't detect any slop.
Thanks Bob for the link.
Ken
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10-4, Ken, my pleasure!
Bob
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The link says they are out of stock. ???
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Brodak is showing them.
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The link says they are out of stock. ???
Maybe I bought them all! VD~
Ken
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Maybe I bought them all! VD~
Ken
Well, between us we may have wiped them out of stock temporarily... ;D
Bob Hunt
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Before you get any of these make sure you have 4-40 taps, both left and right. They come untapped and the rubber is very hard, much harder that a DuBro. They will not self thread using a bolt. The hole is deep so you can tap it a full 1/2". Once tapped, links are very easy to turn with just enough hold to keep them from rotating on their own. I tested one with only 4 turns in the threads and it held for as hard as I could pull on the pushrod. In my bag of 10, all 10 of the balls were tight and very free. In my last bag of DuBro about 1/2 were too tight to use.
Ken
Just curious, does anybody make a 3.75-40 tap just for ball links? LL~
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Before you get any of these make sure you have 4-40 taps, both left and right. They come untapped and the rubber is very hard, much harder that a DuBro. They will not self thread using a bolt. The hole is deep so you can tap it a full 1/2". Once tapped, links are very easy to turn with just enough hold to keep them from rotating on their own. I tested one with only 4 turns in the threads and it held for as hard as I could pull on the pushrod. In my bag of 10, all 10 of the balls were tight and very free. In my last bag of DuBro about 1/2 were too tight to use.
Ken
Just curious, does anybody make a 3.75-40 tap just for ball links? LL~
I think you want one with a different class of fit, Class 3x for one or both sides of the interface. . But, there is a similar question about getting class 3 4-40 taps. You might do better on the male side, dies are adjustable, or single-point threading. In plastic you might get an interference fit since it will spring out a bit while tapping it.
I only have a thread on one end, the other end has a pretty classic-looking 3/32 music wire with a keeper. If you have left/right threads like a turnbuckle, then you have to worry about them turning themselves and do something to prevent it.
Brett
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Before you get any of these make sure you have 4-40 taps, both left and right. They come untapped and the rubber is very hard, much harder that a DuBro. They will not self thread using a bolt. The hole is deep so you can tap it a full 1/2". Once tapped, links are very easy to turn with just enough hold to keep them from rotating on their own. I tested one with only 4 turns in the threads and it held for as hard as I could pull on the pushrod. In my bag of 10, all 10 of the balls were tight and very free. In my last bag of DuBro about 1/2 were too tight to use.
Ken
Just curious, does anybody make a 3.75-40 tap just for ball links? LL~
Take a 4-40 bolt and using the thinnest cut off wheel you have, cut a flute the length of the threads. Two or three is our call. Taper the end a tiny bit and you have a tap that will work in wood, plastic and and can chase existing threads in anything. I have never tried cutting new threads in aluminum or brass. It may make the threads in the ball link body a bit more snug. Threads on things like push rod ends, wheel spokes and such are not cut with a die. They are rolled in a series of sharp wheels and that is what raises the threads above the diameter of the rod they are made in. I wish I had a dollar for every time some one came into the hobby shop I used to work at and asked for a die to make threads on push rod ends longer!! I know a guy that had a small machine for rolling threads and I'm trying to see if he'll part with it just because it's the only one I've ever seen!!
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee