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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: sadams714441 on April 22, 2014, 08:35:23 AM
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I have a nobler ready for engine. Question I have is should I use aluminum pads under engine going to use fox 35
Steve
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Also what size bell rank should I change it out to if I replace the control system
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I have a nobler ready for engine. Question I have is should I use aluminum pads under engine going to use fox 35
Steve
Based on my experience, you will want to put pads on both sides of the MMs. Within 20 or 30 flights the MMs on my ARF Nobler started falling apart. They look like they were manufactured with bamboo that even the Pandas wouldn't eat. I wound up drilling out the mounting holes to accept 1/8 brass tubing to sleeve the holes so I could tighten the motor down without crushing them.
As for the controls . . . that is another ARF weak spot. If this is a plane you intend on keeping and flying for awhile, yes, replace the them. I prefer 4" cranks myself. If the control action seems to slow for you, you can speed up the action by adjusting the line spacing at your handle. While you're at it, put in adjustable leadouts too. I didn't and I could really use them.
B40 on mine, and it's plenty of power.
Brian
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Steve, The factory mounts are made from some sort of mystery wood, and smaller than most other builds, yes, definitely add the pads. The Fox is not as smooth as other engines, which makes this more important. Because the mounts are smaller, don't inlay the pads, just add them on top of the beams. This will cause some mis-alignment with the cowl but still will work. I don't think that you can get a 4" bellcrank in without major work, but definitely replace the existing 3" one with one that is bushed and with new leadouts (use the existing ones to pull the new ones in through the wing to the bellcrank). Also add ball links at all connection points. The stock metal connectors don't fit very well and get terribly loose very quickly from vibration. All the above has been learned the hard way. There is lots of info about this plane and easy improvements that will extend it's lifespan in the "ARF" section. Good luck.
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A Fox 35 may not be the best choice -- of the new engines, the Brodak 40, an appropriate-sized Enya, or OS LA 46 would probably do well.
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If the Fox .35 is what he has it will work and the supplied tank will work also with the engine. I have many flights on my ARF Nobler and must have been lucky as it still has original engine mounts. Right now it is being powered with the EVO .36 and no cowl. Using the same tank. Yes, it will not do the full pattern, but it is being used for breaking in the engine. Had to add lead to tail because of weight difference between the two engines. But, it still flies great for me anyway. Now If you can get the bell crank out, bush it with tubing. I use copper as it bends easy and so far has out lasted most planes I use it on. Also the ball links is a great idea also. H^^
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Can you get a ball link on in the rear kind of narrow
Back there or use z bend
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For a ball link in the rear you will have to remove some of the material from the inside. You can actually cut an arc through the wall that follows the ball link, and cover the new hole with some mono-kote.
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Get ahold of Tom Morris. He makes a set of controls with a 4 inch bellcrank that work great. He uses carbon fiber rods and phenolic plastic. I have two planes one is a Top Flite Nobler and they fly well with his controls. He has a special setup for the Top Flite Nobler.