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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Bob Disharoon on June 02, 2007, 04:11:59 PM
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Hi all..just assembled my ARF FL..it went together perfectly..verry impressive fit and finish thoughout...wing fit the fuse cutout so perfectly I was worried enough adhesive could get in there..one question thats been bothering me from my other thread on this subject i.e. the problem of the "hollow" nose.
Where exactly is this hollow area?
Is it simply a small area covered with the doubler?
Because the nose is so short, why would it not be made of solid balsa?
If the above comments are correct, what is a good fix before I take it to the field
Again, thanx in advance, guys!....Bob
For "Billy G"...I did this cause Ive never done An ARF...The Ringmaster is next..got Dees edges and plans last week, so wise crackin at Brokak ,ok? LOL mw~
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HD;
Surely you jest? ME,wisecrack at "Brodaks" You must have me mixed up with that guy Leo is talking about, tthe guy that has a first name that is the same as my last name. That's it, you got me mixed up with him. But then there is always the "G-Man", he is going to go to "Brodaks" also. He can get "brutal" but I will have a talk with him for you, OK?
"Billy G" LL~ LL~ LL~ LL~
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On mine the spot that broke was right in front of the canopy, about where the black/white monokote meets. I want to say it's just behind the doublers. The arf Streak doublers don't come back as far as the TF kit doublers. Considering the nose is a weak spot in most profiles, it's really unfortunate that TF/Great Planes didn't take longevity into consideration. The most annoying part of the nose breaking for me, was that there wasn't much to glue back together, since it's just pulpy sheetwood.
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If it already put together, my advice is to make sure you use a low vibration engine (no Fox 35's need apply!). The darn plane is so light, you don't really need anything above a 20 to pull it around (as I mentioned, I use a Fox15BB). Also balance the prop!
For the $50 bucks or so,it is a great knock-around plane. That it is also a reaL Streak (Flite not Sky! S?P) is an extra bonus!
Ok guys, I'm just kidding about changing things. Lighten up!
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For some more info, my ARF Streak ready to fly (no fuel) is 24 oz. I did put a two wheel gear on it.
Also I pulled out an origibal Top Flite Flite Streak kit fuse (not the Brodak kit), and as someone mentioned on the other thread, it is an inch shorter than the Arf Fuse (Nose is the same length within my eyeball comparison). So maybe the ARF Streak picked up some Skyray DNA somewhere along the line!
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After I posted on your other thread I went out the next day and flew the streak. The engine quit at the top of a wing over when I ran it out of gas ( rear edge of tank had been shimmed out to improve shut off at end of flight ) and it hit nose first snapping the nose off at the edge of the doublers. the internal structure is built like a full size aircraft rib with capstrips, uprights and diagonals sheeted with balsa except the balsa seems to end at the edge of the ply doublers ( don't guess you can call them that then ) so any hard dorks on the nose will crack the internal capstrips at that joint. The fuse is hollow back over the wing top and bottom tapering to an end an inch or so back, the nose has an upright in front of the wing that when cut through gives a hollow to the back of the engine bearers although the bottom bearer comes back close to the upright. Most people put a piece of arrow shaft through the hollows and epoxy the nose back on. I guess I will see how that works out. HB~>
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Thanks..I have an LA25 on it..thinking about drilling down thru the top of the profile aft or the doubler and inserting arrow shaft material or light weight dowls..think that will help?..thnx, Bob
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The arrow shafts should go fore aft.
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What I meant to say was drilling them in on a 30 degree angle to get more shafts into the nose than just 2 using thefore and aft method...what are your thoughts on that technique?....or....maybe just go out and fly the dam thing and have fun.!.LOL..thanx, Bob
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Here is how I fixed mine. Of course it added some weight but I figured better a little overweight than going around with a broken nose all the time.
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Thanks for the pic...one question: was the rectangular cutout behind the bearers an existing hole that came with the kit?
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The plane was an ARF. When it broke the last time I threw the nose part away and started fresh. Here is another picture of the crutch. as you can see it extends well into the fuselsge. I made it out of maple, The holes are in it to lighten it.
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Thanks for the photo Keith, I am going to have to do that to my ARF Streak. Going to have to dig out all the old epoxy. DOC Holliday