Author Topic: After Run Oil (Read 3750 times)

Rick Henry · « **on:** August 08, 2011, 11:34:34 PM »

I have started using 3 in 1 oil as an after run oil instead of the brand my local hobby shop sells. I have also been told that air tool oil works well. What do you use?

Rick

BrianW517 · « **Reply #1 on:** August 09, 2011, 12:49:05 AM »

Marvel Mystery Oil is my choice for decades.

Andrew Tinsley · « **Reply #2 on:** August 09, 2011, 03:35:52 AM »

According to most people, 3 in 1 oil is a no no. I am not sure why, but I am sure that any number of people will tell me! I use a very good quality airtool oil. It is designed for exactly the conditions we get in our model engines.
I live in UK so my brand won't be available in the US. Most people there seem to use Marvel Mystery Oil. NOTE! the ordinary Marvel Mystery Oil is NOT what you want. Only use the stuff deigned for air tools!

Regards,

Andrew.

Dan Bregar · « **Reply #3 on:** August 09, 2011, 04:07:38 AM »

Marvel Air Tool Oil, or as George Aldrich used to recomend, Rislone. Both will prevent rust in our engines, especially the bearings.

Neville Legg · « **Reply #4 on:** August 09, 2011, 04:11:38 AM »

I've used 3 in 1 for years without any problems? For long term storage, I flush them with IPA, let that evaporate and fill up with 3 in 1! I heard gun oil is ok too?

Cheers

peabody · « **Reply #5 on:** August 09, 2011, 05:29:34 AM »

ATF works very well.....

Dean Pappas · « **Reply #6 on:** August 09, 2011, 07:20:07 AM »

Hi All,
Mobil 1 is an excellent anti-corrosive.
The engines I ran with it had steel parts that looked brand new shiny after a whole season of heavy use.

Regards,
Dean Pappas

Paul Smith · « **Reply #7 on:** August 09, 2011, 07:20:16 AM »

Rislone and kerosene both work well, especially for long term storage. 3-in-1 locks up over time, but the otehr two don't.

Gene O'Keefe · « **Reply #8 on:** August 09, 2011, 07:55:48 AM »

Like Dan said....Marvel "AIR TOOL OIL" -- been using it for a gazillion years in my shop air tools & my model IC engines.

Joseph Patterson · « **Reply #9 on:** August 09, 2011, 09:08:59 AM »

I used 3-in-1 for years in my engines, some of which were put up (2) or more yrs w/o any sticking problems. However, I always flush my engines thoroughly w/ WD-40 after flying, then flood with the 3-in-1. Now I use air-tool oil because it is cheaper and probably inhibits moisture a little better than 3-in-1. I have had one of the very expensive after-run oils congeal in two of my Saito 40's and a couple of my 2-strokes after being put up for a year or so. Most of the guys here are using air-tool oil, or Rislone.
Doug

Will Hinton · « **Reply #10 on:** August 09, 2011, 11:03:31 AM »

Rislone or Randy smith's stuff, either one.

Steve Helmick · « **Reply #11 on:** August 09, 2011, 11:10:50 AM »

Quote from: Neville Legg on August 09, 2011, 04:11:38 AM

I've used 3 in 1 for years without any problems? For long term storage, I flush them with IPA, let that evaporate and fill up with 3 in 1! I heard gun oil is ok too?

Cheers

IPA = India Pale Ale...or IsoPropyl Alcohol?

Steve

Randy Cuberly · « **Reply #12 on:** August 09, 2011, 11:48:48 AM »

Quote from: Steve Helmick on August 09, 2011, 11:10:50 AM

IPA = India Pale Ale...or IsoPropyl Alcohol? Steve

Yeah...The IPA (India Pale Ale is best) but too much of it makes me seize up!

Randy C.

Rob Killick · « **Reply #13 on:** August 09, 2011, 12:23:49 PM »

Hi ,

I'm sure Rislone would be a very good choice for after run oil .

We used to use Rislone on our power plants ancient recip compressors , to remove carbon from the outlet valves .

It would probably work well on ringed engines , or any engine that needs a "de-gunk".

Rob K.

Ed Keller · « **Reply #14 on:** August 09, 2011, 01:07:28 PM »

Not sue anyone else has experienced this, but I would recommend that you remove any glow plug that you want to keep, or use. After using oil for storing the engine, or just after run anti corosion, I have found that the plug will not let the engine run correctly, but gives an erratic un-reliable run. Don't remember what the exact oil was, but I always use an old plug now, or some substitute for the plug when storing, & flush out the engine with fuel before putting in a good plug & using the engine. Regards, Ed

Brett Buck · « **Reply #15 on:** August 09, 2011, 02:13:25 PM »

Quote from: Ed Keller on August 09, 2011, 01:07:28 PM

Not sue anyone else has experienced this, but I would recommend that you remove any glow plug that you want to keep, or use. After using oil for storing the engine, or just after run anti corosion, I have found that the plug will not let the engine run correctly, but gives an erratic un-reliable run. Don't remember what the exact oil was, but I always use an old plug now, or some substitute for the plug when storing, & flush out the engine with fuel before putting in a good plug & using the engine. Regards, Ed

I use air-tool oil (Sta-Lube brand because that's what I could get at Kragen's for $2) and I haven't had anything like plug poisoning with that. I really load them up, to the point that you can still smell it burning off for most of the first flight of the day.

Brett

Allan Perret · « **Reply #16 on:** August 09, 2011, 02:46:35 PM »

OK, so what is your procedure for using after run oil.
Specifically, how can you get it to the front crank bearing ?
I dont think much if any will get to front bearing by just putting it the venturi.

Will Hinton · « **Reply #17 on:** August 09, 2011, 05:16:12 PM »

I'm with Brett - never had a plug problem, and I, too, load them up. At least ten drops and then several flips. when storing for any period of time, I use the starter to turn them over, ten MORE drops, and the starter again.
In the spring, I remove the prop, turn it with the starter, replace the prop, burp it, and fly. Been doing it that way for a couple of decades now.

George · « **Reply #18 on:** August 09, 2011, 05:40:31 PM »

Quote from: Allan Perret on August 09, 2011, 02:46:35 PM

OK, so what is your procedure for using after run oil.
Specifically, how can you get it to the front crank bearing ?
I dont think much if any will get to front bearing by just putting it the venturi.

After the last run, I disconnect the fuel line, connect the glow driver and try to start the engine to burn off the last of the fuel in the crankcase. Remove the plug and squirt a few drops in the plug hole and intake (or exhaust if you don't remove the plug. I flip the prop after each squirt. Of course there are other ways, but this is how I do it.

I think the oil will get to the front bearing just like it does while running.

I like Rislone or air-tool oil. By the way, a few years ago a rep from Marvel Mystery Oil posted that Marvel Air Tool oil is MMO with rust inhibitor

George

Jim Kraft · « **Reply #19 on:** August 09, 2011, 07:20:46 PM »

One trick on four strokes is to load it up with oil thru the crank case vent, and then plug the vent and turn the engine over untill it forces oil out the front brg.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #20 on:** August 09, 2011, 07:28:22 PM »

When you hang the plane by the tail, nose down, the oil will get to front bearings.

Rick Henry · « **Reply #21 on:** August 09, 2011, 11:13:05 PM »

Thanks for the input guys. I think I will pick up some air tool oil and give it a try. I also hang my planes from the tail.

Rick

Geoff Goodworth · « **Reply #22 on:** August 09, 2011, 11:33:07 PM »

G'day guys. Rislone has only just become available in Australia—and I've used auto transmission fluid until now.

WHich Rislone is the preferred? Two stroke oils or one of the oil treatments?

John Eyer · « **Reply #23 on:** August 10, 2011, 07:16:51 AM »

Brian Hampton · « **Reply #24 on:** August 10, 2011, 11:17:10 AM »

I use an ARO that mixes with the fuel so it's always liberally spread throughout the engine. I call it castor oil

. And before anyone jumps down my throat, there's a difference between an After Run Oil and a long term preservative.