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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Richard Koehler on November 17, 2012, 09:45:06 PM
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Before my knees and hip ground me I thought I'd like to fly a classic stunt plane again, here's what I built to do that from a Brodak kit. The plane is powered by a Brodak 40 and finished with Ultracoat, Rustoleum, and Duplicolor. It weighs 43 oz.with the Brodak Tube muffler and balances very close to what the plan specifies without any added weight. I'm waiting for the paint to dry before test flights. I hope the pictures post!
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Very Nice. I love the Oriental and yours looks great. I hope you get it dry and can fly it soon.
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Congratulations, another fine example of a good little bird.
Allen
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The Oriental looks great and I think you will love flying it. Hope the Brodak .40 is broken in good.
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Looks great...but I gotta ask, is the silver "Rustoleum" or "Duplicolor" ?
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I like it a lot i have an arf that the covering is coming off the fuse i am thinking removing covering and rustoleum for a winter project,can you tell me how you preped plane before rustoleum.
Thanks
Ron
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Metallic and clear colors in Rustoleum are NOT fuel proof. They must be fuel proofed prior to flying them.
Allen
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What Allen said...if the wing is Rustoleum, it is NOT fuel proof...I was hoping it might be Dupicolor and be fuel
"resistant" but not sure of that either. I would hate to see that nice finish ruined. JMHO
Geno
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I like it a lot i have an arf that the covering is coming off the fuse i am thinking removing covering and rustoleum for a winter project,can you tell me how you preped plane before rustoleum.
Thanks
Ron
Check out the April and May issues of Flying Models for my Olympus article. My finishing technique is complete.
Allen
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The flaps and elevator/stab are Duplicolor. I checked the Duplicolor with 30% nitro raw fuel overnight and it seemed to be OK. What I really wanted was a silver fuse, but when I subjected a Duplicolor painted test to hot exhaust it got soft and sagged. Hopefully the flaps and elevator/stab are out of harms way. I'll find out for sure if and when I succeed in getting the engine to start. I prepared all wood surfaces with miniwax polycyclic and silkspan and Rustoleum primer/filler. The tank hatch was used to test a prep of miniwax containing talc and a water based red color, and that also looks like it worked fine.
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Is the Duplicolor rattle can or something else? ?
Thanks a lot,
Dan McEntee
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The Duplicolor is rattle can. I wonder if all Duplicolor rattle can paint behaves the same way with glow fuel? Could it be Duplicolor is like Rustoleum in that some colors are not fuelproof?
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Was the Duplicolor lacquer or enamel? They apparently make both. D>K Steve
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Something that a friend (Perry Rose) told me about is Dupli-Color wheel clear, I don't remember the part #, but it is fuel resistant.
I had a.25 powered Sky Ray that I shot with Rust-o-leum white, then sprayed the Dupli-Color wheel clear on it and it was successful, however let the Rust o leum dry for a couple to three weeks first, then let the Wheel clear dry for a few days.
It worked for me.. If I can I will get the Duplicolor part # and post it.
I got the wheel clear at a local NAPA store...
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The Duplicolor I used was labeled as an Acrylic Lacquer and is available in lots of colors at all auto parts stores. I'll look into the wheel clear next time I'm in an auto parts store which being a FORD owner will no doubt be soon.
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I haven't used Duplicolor acrylic lacquer, but my OFB Mike Haverly has used it quite a bit. He puts it over butyrate dope and clearcoats it with butyrate dope...everything except actually mix it into butyrate, and I'm not sure about that! I think it's a good way to go, because you can fix it easily if you have a close encounter with the ground or have to cut into it to fix the control ratios. :-[ Steve