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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Bootlegger on February 22, 2016, 08:16:28 AM
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Seems that I read somewhere that you can iron this glue to get a good bond, but I don't remember any of the details. Who can help??
Many thanks...
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If you are talking about covering, you can also use many contact cements in a similar way. Dilute 50..75% with nitro thinner, brush 2-3 coats and let dry. It won't swell or deform wood structures like PVA.
That's how we cover free flight models, with Mylar or polyester fabric.
Usually most of the easily available glues work, but there are only a few that hold well also in a very cold weather, especially with Mylar.
I see no reason why it wouldn't work with paper, too.
L
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As I understand the OP, yes, and Ty has the answer correct. Said to be a great way to sheet LE's, D-box, C-tubes, center sections. I haven't done it, but would. Another way is to punch a couple pinholes in the sheeting over the ribs and apply a drop of thin CA. Said thin CA wicks through the holes and bonds the sheeting to the ribs, assuming you have the two held in firm contact. That, I've done. It will leave pinholes visible through a transparent finish, but not an opaque finish, of course. y1 Steve
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Thanks a lot fellow's, I plan to try this method on gluing balsa to styro foam, so like Ty suggested I'm gonna try a test piece.
Again thanks a lot...
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Let us know how it works. I'd be interested in knowing if the foam ends up melting.
Hobby Lobby (the airplane folks, not the "viagra for me but no birth control for you" folks) used to sell stuff called Polyspan that came with stuff called BalsaLoc -- BalsaLoc looked & smelled like Elmer's glue, and made a dandy iron-on adhesive for the "Polyspan".
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If you are talking about covering, you can also use many contact cements in a similar way. Dilute 50..75% with nitro thinner, brush 2-3 coats and let dry. It won't swell or deform wood structures like PVA.
That's how we cover free flight models, with Mylar or polyester fabric.
Usually most of the easily available glues work, but there are only a few that hold well also in a very cold weather, especially with Mylar.
I see no reason why it wouldn't work with paper, too.
L
What is "nitro thinner" ?
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I would be concerned with Balsa over foam...assuming the typical very thin balsa that the heat needed to activate the glue would be higher than the foam will take and you will not see the voids anywhere you lingered too long
I have done a whole lot of slc or other covering over foam and find a too long a stay with the iron or heat gun on an area goes from good to bad in a real hurry
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Allan,
Oh sorry, It's an universal thinner I use for my shrinking dope, 2-k acrylic, epoxy base and 2-k PU colours. I buy it from car paint shop.
The main point is not to use cheap crap but good quality thinner. L
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Back to aliphatic glue: I use thinned Titebond to laminate two sheets of 1/32" balsa to mold parts like wing leading edge, turtledecks, etc. I saturate a piece of silkspan in the glue to go between the balsa sheets. Wrap everything around a mold and wrap with strips of cotton bedsheets (use only the ones your wife doesn't want)
Floyd
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HI:
Not only can one use an iron to get the glue to fire off. but one can also place the parts to be bonded in a microwave oven! I used to make my combat planes this way. Do not use metal clamps, pins etc. for holding the parts together in the microwave! Lol
Good luck,
Frank McCune
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Back to aliphatic glue: I use thinned Titebond to laminate two sheets of 1/32" balsa to mold parts like wing leading edge, turtledecks, etc. I saturate a piece of silkspan in the glue to go between the balsa sheets. Wrap everything around a mold and wrap with strips of cotton bedsheets (use only the ones your wife doesn't want)
Floyd
Great idea, Floyd. Never thought of placing silkspan between the laminates.
George