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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Fred Quedenfeld jr on August 04, 2018, 08:53:53 AM
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I am trying to remove a plastic spinner it has only been sitting for a year
2 phillips head screws
can not seem to get either one to move
suggestions
Fred Q
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Propane torch with Map gas ;D
or
Drill them out
or
small "easyout
or
"Liquid Wremch"
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propane torch. heat screwdriver tip (hot) put it in screw, let screw get hot, do it again then try to remove
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Fred,
Is this a Du-Bro spinner? They come with hex socket screws and go into elastic stop nuts. These are usually plated, so I am kind of doubting that corrosion is your issue. Sounds like they were put in tight and the driver has damaged the cross recess. If you didn't replace the nuts, then the recess should be Phillips and not JIS. So likely worn tool. Find your best driver of the correct size and use a lot of pressure--give it your best shot. If the grip is too slippery, wrap a piece of sandpaper around it in the correct direction. If no joy, I would attempt to drill the heads off and hope not to damage the plastic. And change the screws back to hex recess.
In something other than an airplane spinner, use the equivalent of an impact driver. Hold screwdriver firmly in screw and with some torque applied. Tap end of screwdriver repeatedly. Speak good words or other mechanic's invocations....
You can try heating the screwdriver, to conduct heat into the nut, but I don't think this one is going to help and is likely to damage the spinner before you get enough heat into the nut to make any difference.
Worst case scenario is the hacksaw to the cone to either expose the screw heads for the pliers option, or to cut off the screw heads.
Absolute worst case is that you slip and injure yourself. A $5 spinner isn't worth it....
Dave
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Try a "Phillips" head driver that exactly fits. There's several standards, and several sizes of each standard. Get it wrong and nothing quite works.
If it's a Hanger 9 spinner then the driver that fits the screws is too big for the hole -- you either need to tease them out with a too-small driver, or bite the bullet and grind down the shank of a driver that does fit.
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Excess heat is not good for plastic spinner. If the screw heads are buggered up, I would go for a small Dremel emery stone that fits the spinner, Grind the head off the screws, a small amount at a time (for heat control)
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I have had good results with this problem by using a high quality properly sized driver as previously suggested.
Additionally a significantly better bite can be attained by dipping the screwdriver tip in valve grinding compound.
Good luck and definitely replace the screws with socket heads.
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Additionally if it is still stubborn clamp some vice grip pliers onto the screwdriver shaft and rap the head with a hammer as you apply rotational force.
This method is usualky succesful.
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Get an Easy-Out.
Don't over-think this.
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Put a dab of lapping/grinding paste on the tip. Don't force it, put torque on it and wait.
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And the screws became intimidated and fell out, right Fred?
????
Dave
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Try a "Phillips" head driver that exactly fits. There's several standards, and several sizes of each standard. Get it wrong and nothing quite works.
If it's a Hanger 9 spinner then the driver that fits the screws is too big for the hole -- you either need to tease them out with a too-small driver, or bite the bullet and grind down the shank of a driver that does fit.
I'm no expert on this particular situation but I do have enough general phillips experience to know that this advice is spot on for phillips fasteners. There is more variance than many people realize. For tight spaces Vermont American used to market tips with a #2 point on a slimmer than normal shaft. I have put thousands of phillips screws into subfloors, drywall, metal studs, and mechanical devices. Fit is everything. Also important to know when a point is worn out.
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Found the correct size Phillips for the screw had to grind down the shaft to fit the holes But got the spinner off
thanks Fred Q
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Motorman,
The smallest spiral screw extractor I could find--and purchase--has a .065 diameter at the tip, on a .127 diameter shank. I don't give that much chance of working in a .112-40 or similar size screw, whether it is Phillips head or hex recess cap. Not enough head depth to drill and engage. No wall left on the screw shank when you go deeper. Even if centered perfectly, if the screw was truly stuck, it is going to snap off. Which isn't really a bad thing. A guy can give it a try and the results are the same as what I included in the earlier list of suggestions: drill the head.
If someone has a source for a smaller spiral extractor, I'd like to buy one. Screws break in the middle of the night when stores are closed. And, the night before you need something to work. At least in Dave's world....
Dave
PS--I've heard of using a reverse twist drill bit on small screws. The combination of the drilling torque plus the vibration, plus the heat might do it. I have not tried this, and I don't think I have any reverse bits, so this is simply speculation.
PPS--I checked on the small screw extractor that I bought. It is an Irwin/Hanson EX-1 (53401) used with a 5/64 drill bit. Irwin also sells the reverse bits in various sizes. Made in the US of A.
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I admit upfront to having considerable dislike for plastic spinners, but my solution would be to saw the darned thing off. Unless the propeller was an expensive or hard to get item, I'd start by sawing the blades off, sanding the stubs flush enough to allow sawing the cone off. And then discarding anything else that was in the way, such as a plastic backplate,, which is the #1 problem with plastic spinners in the first case. y1 Steve
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I am trying to remove a plastic spinner it has only been sitting for a year
2 phillips head screws
can not seem to get either one to move
suggestions
Fred Q
Use this stuff
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F09CEA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
Kano Aerokroil Penetrating Oil
Moves almost anything
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READ reply #12. y1
Fred got them OUT! :o
Jerry
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So what, Gerald? Having more ideas on how to get the job done might help somebody else, someday. Maybe even you! Meanwhile, use the MAP Gas torch, Kroil, bandsaw or whatever seems most appealing. LL~ Steve
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Steve is clearly going for a "scorched earth" strategy. The frustration of having the problem because it was not his preferred type of spinner...?
1. Immediately ruin prop with saw because it was attached to the offending airplane, and because it makes it quicker and easier to...
2. Ruin spinner with the saw next.
3. Presumably, if any frustration remains, attempt to remediate with MAPP torch.
Patience, grasshopper!
>:D
I cut out a one page ad from a magazine years ago. Blank black page with only the following bold lettering on it "Don't do the damage in the first place." I've come to understand that is very sound advice. I presume that what Steve is telling us is that if we use better spinners, the right tool, and proper torques--all the while maintaining our equipment--that most small catastrophes are avoided. Or maybe he just likes saws?
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Scorched Earth? Naw, I just have distrust for any plastic spinner that isn't accompanied by its very own aluminum backplate. The main reason is that the slightest backfire will kick the prop loose and you'll have to mess with it on the circle or burn an attempt and potentially have the same problem on your second attempt. Plus, most of them are heavier than a quality aluminum spinner. The GP plastic/aluminum spinner is the only plastic spinner that's worth beans, but sadly only available for 2 blade props. H^^ Steve
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I'd like to see an "Easy Out" for a 4-40 screw.
I've used the .050 Allen wrench as an extractor on small screws successfully.
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Hammer.... plastic spinners are cheap :)
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
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Now I know why I replace those Phillips thingies. Ace Hardware loves me. D>K