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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: TCL on February 23, 2021, 04:28:32 PM
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Hi,
Quick question about adjustable leadouts. I wasn't able to find a thread that covered this, so my apologies if I missed it.
Is there any special technique to creating adjustable leads like Sparky has here? For example, do I need to reinforce the holes with thin CA or something so that the eyelets don't damage the balsa in flight? Does the wingtip need to be a solid block for these to work well? Anything about what I'm seeing that I might not be thinking about? Thanks so much.
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There are several commercial adjustable leadout guides available. Some people use brass or aluminum tubing guides. Friction is not a big problem as long as the guides are lined up with the leadout cables. I prefer Teflon tubing but anchoring Teflon to the wing structure is a separate problem.
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Thanks!
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The "eyelets in holes" system works well, in practice.
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EDIT - The basswood approach offered by Alan Resinger is much preferred over balsa alone. The balsa solution is for smaller models and limited adjustment frequency
Do I need to reinforce the holes with thin CA or something so that the eyelets don't damage the balsa?
Yes, It’s a good idea.
Tips should be hollow and light as possible
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Hi,
Quick question about adjustable leadouts. I wasn't able to find a thread that covered this, so my apologies if I missed it.
Is there any special technique to creating adjustable leads like Sparky has here? For example, do I need to reinforce the holes with thin CA or something so that the eyelets don't damage the balsa in flight? Does the wingtip need to be a solid block for these to work well? Anything about what I'm seeing that I might not be thinking about? Thanks so much.
In my experience adjustable leadouts like that are made with a bearer from Basswood that's drilled, and then slotted. The basswood is strong enough to hold together, but I don't know about balsa. You could try soaking the area in CA to see if it's strong enough, but I have my doubts.
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Yea. Needs a good hard plywood, or hardwood strip embedded in the tip . Sooner or later its gunna get a good whang . Balsa alone would eventually compact and it'd get loose . Leadout could even cut into it and jam .
Add /. seebelow . Dan .
A strip of carbon if youve got it , obviously wouldnt hurt .
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You have the right idea with hardening the holes with C/A. Lay out the positions of the holes, drill the holes but make them a bit under sized. Then connect the dots with the slot so you can move them. Clean things up with some fine sanding tools. Use eyelets with a flange on one end, and use these to size the holes to final fit. If you are happy with everything, then touch up the holes and the slot with thin C/A sparingly. Then take the same sanding tool you used before and to9uch up where the glue flowed and clean them up a bit. The glue soaking in and kicking off will raise the grain a bit. Make sure the cable will pass through the slot. Use a small rat tail file to clean up the holes, and test fit the eyelets. They should have enough friction to stay in place when you work the controls. Pressure from the lead out should not make them move. If you think they are too loose, just dab in another drop of C/A and rework the hole. If the wing had a flat plate tip, a piece of plywood makes a better base for the holes and the slots but still harden the holes with thin C/A to fuel proof them if for no other reason.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
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You might ask Scott Richlen, also on this board, how he does it. He built a plane that lasted twenty seasons with adjustable eyelet hole leadouts. And it wasn't that the leadouts were the issue that removed that plane from service.
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Here is the guide in my new composite wing. Take two pieces of 1/8" basswood that are 3/8" wide. After determining how long you want to have the adjustment. Glue two small pieces of 1/16" plywood that are 3/8" square into the ends between tbe basswood strips. I mark off 1/4" spacings for the holes and use the pictured drill guide in my drill press. The guide keeps the drill from pushing the strips apart and ruining the hole diameter and alignment. I use a new 1/8" brad point bit for the holes. Small turned Delron or nylon plugs with 1/16" diameter holes act as the LO locaters. Easy adjustment in 1/4" increments.
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Here is the guide in my new composite wing. Take two pieces of 1/8" basswood that are 3/8" wide. After determining how long you want to have the adjustment. Glue two small pieces of 1/16" plywood that are 3/8" square into the ends between tbe basswood strips. I mark off 1/4" spacings for the holes and use the pictured drill guide in my drill press. The guide keeps the drill from pushing the strips apart and ruining the hole diameter and alignment. I use a new 1/8" brad point bit for the holes. Small turned Delron or nylon plugs with 1/16" diameter holes act as the LO locaters. Easy adjustment in 1/4" increments.
Thanks so much everyone, but especially for this illustrated guide, Alan. I figured there was a bit more to it than meets the eye. I have a nice Brodak adjustable guide on its way, so I'll use that this time and get set up to try this method on my next model. I do like it a lot.
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Just wanted to share that RSM sells Leadout guides as well. I make them here in the shop out of 1/8" birch plywood. They are bushed with brass eyelets.
They can be found at: https://www.rsmdistribution.com under Handles & Lines * Control Line Handles
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Mike H.
RSM Distribution
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Thank you, Mike!