3M 233+ GREEN MASKING TAPE QUESTIONS.

[Claudio Chacon]

Hello guys!
I'm  about to start painting, ran out of 3M BLUE FINELINE tape (I can't get it anymore in Argentina).
The only masking tape I can get here (aside from the tan crepe tape, which is NOT suitable for fine line masking)
is the 3M GREEN 233+ MASKING TAPE, which I never used before.

Is this tape good enough to do a decent paint job? (I mean, no paint bleeding under the edges...)
Is it flexible enough to make curved lines?

Any advice will be much appreciated...

Later,
Claudio.

[Ken Bird]

Claudio,

I use and recommend 3M 233 for crepe masking tape. It is an automotive refinishing spec tape. It won't be as flexible as Fineline, but they do make it as narrow as 3mm widths so can generally do the job for curves. I prefer this tape with dope. Take the usual precautions with sealing the edges with a coat of clear dope prior to your color and it generally works well.

Ken
 

[Avaiojet]

Claudio,

I use and recommend 3M 233 for crepe masking tape. It is an automotive refinishing spec tape. It won't be as flexible as Fineline, but they do make it as narrow as 3mm widths so can generally do the job for curves. I prefer this tape with dope. Take the usual precautions with sealing the edges with a coat of clear dope prior to your color and it generally works well.

Ken
 

"Take the usual precautions with sealing the edges with a coat of clear dope prior to your color and it generally works well."

I haven't used clear coat to seal the edge of tape since the mid to late 60's. That's extra build up and a thicker edge.

Using the proper tape, is the clear really necessary? I don't do it.

I would suggest the 3M fine line 218. What the adhesive backing is made of makes a big difference.

Because I have no idea what others do and use, I can only use my models as an example, clean sharp edges with absolutely no bleeding. But then again I don't use dope.

The 3M green tapes do not go around smaller corners as well as the blue tape.

In my job profession, not only myself, but many airbrush and graphics guys would sometimes use paint mask material and cut the radius, or whatever the detail.

No one needs a taped corner pulling back before or after a shoot. Especially if a different color is applied on the other edge of the tape. It has to stay put.

Seeing I no longer do airbrush or custom graphics for customers, I don't mind taking the "hobbyists" approach instead of the professional approach in finishing my models.

Aerosol cans? Is this professional? 

Laziness comes into play also and I don't enter them into competition. Just for my own personal pleasure. So, I've created short cuts to an excellent finish.

Products not available in Argentina? Have a friend mail you tape or whatever you need to finish your models the easiest way and the best way. Quality products are important.







 

[Jim Hoffman]

I recommend K-Tape, available on Amazon. Available in a variety of widths, can make reasonably tight  radius bends.  I recall the thinnest width available was 1/16” inch.   No bleeding

[Steve Dwyer]

Claudio,

There are many paint tapes available on line, I recently did a fair amount of graphic work requiring fine line tape. My recommendation is to use only vinyl tape, it can be stretched around bends without lifting and stays put during painting. Of course I'd always take the precaution of sealing the edges using 50/50 thinned clear to prevent bleeding. Be sure also to clean the surface before taping, Windex works well to remove any oils from your hands. Another tip I used was using 1/8" wide tape followed with a second overlapped course before back masking to achieve secured tight curves.

Good luck,

Steve

[Avaiojet]

Claudio,

There are many paint tapes available on line, I recently did a fair amount of graphic work requiring fine line tape. My recommendation is to use only vinyl tape, it can be stretched around bends without lifting and stays put during painting. Of course I'd always take the precaution of sealing the edges using 50/50 thinned clear to prevent bleeding. Be sure also to clean the surface before taping, Windex works well to remove any oils from your hands. Another tip I used was using 1/8" wide tape followed with a second overlapped course before back masking to achieve secured tight curves.

Good luck,

Steve

"Of course I'd always take the precaution of sealing the edges using 50/50 thinned clear to prevent bleeding."

Steve,

Why do you do this extra step when it's not necessary? I don't find it necessary.

If you have experience/confidence, using the proper tapes, and a few have been mentioned, "bleeding" is never an issue. One foot of tape or 20 feet, it's all the same? These vinyl tapes always give, even a first timer, a sharp edge. They are designed to do this.

What kind of clear?

This model is an excellent example of the use of vinyl tapes and paint masks. BTW, no aluminum foil was used in the masking process. I have a paint Thread on this model someplace.

These were large paint masks, for the "007" in gold on both wings.

The only vinyl graphics I used on this model was the blue, Skyfall, and 007. Black vinyl on the smaller 007. Everything else is Krylon aerosol cans, then the final two part auto clear coat.

It would have been a good deal of unnecessary work if I elected to clear all of the tape before painting the colors with aerosol cans.

Aerosol cans thanks to Rusty. What a great guy!

[fred cesquim]

i have been trying several types of tape along my 30 years of modelling ( most of it professionally building) and i have chosen to use vinyl mask (the type used for sign) i just buy a 1 meter segment and cut fresh strips about 1/8th with a sharp blade and a steel ruler. This way i always have fresh tape and perfect borders. the tapes sold for this purposes have 3 problems that made me stay away from them: the side of the roll collects dust, the thickness is bigger than the vinyl, which makes bigger edges of paint and the adhesive starts to bleed from under the tape to the side, and this result in less than sharp edges. The cons of vinyl  is that they left a lot of adhesive residue that you have to clean after bot this is easy, and you have to anchor the corners with masking tape, painting must be done on the same day of the masking to achieve best results.more work? yes, but more rewarding.
   

[Claudio Chacon]

Hola muchachos!

First of all, let me thank each and everyone of you for taking the time to respond...
All great tips!

Unfortunately, importing ANYTHING to Argentina is out of the question.
A simple roll of masking tape of $10.- US Dollars would end costing me almost $60.- shipped! How about that? 
(not to mention the exchange rate: 1 dollar equals $170.- argentine pesos, so, $10.200.- ARS for ONE roll of masking tape  )
Import taxes and customs charges are just ASTRONOMICAL down here...you get the picture...

So, I will have to try the 3M 233+ pre-sealing the edges with clear, as Steve and Ken suggested.

Again guys, many thanks for your input!

Best regards,
Claudio.

[Claudio Chacon]

i have been trying several types of tape along my 30 years of modelling ( most of it professionally building) and i have chosen to use vinyl mask (the type used for sign) i just buy a 1 meter segment and cut fresh strips about 1/8th with a sharp blade and a steel ruler. This way i always have fresh tape and perfect borders. the tapes sold for this purposes have 3 problems that made me stay away from them: the side of the roll collects dust, the thickness is bigger than the vinyl, which makes bigger edges of paint and the adhesive starts to bleed from under the tape to the side, and this result in less than sharp edges. The cons of vinyl  is that they left a lot of adhesive residue that you have to clean after bot this is easy, and you have to anchor the corners with masking tape, painting must be done on the same day of the masking to achieve best results.more work? yes, but more rewarding.
 

I see Fred...
Your vinyl method can be a very good solution...I can try that one too!

By the way...your paint jobs are just IMPECCABLE! Very impressive!

What kind of clear do you use? Dope colors or acrilyc?

[fred cesquim]

I see Fred...
Your vinyl method can be a very good solution...I can try that one too!

By the way...your paint jobs are just IMPECCABLE! Very impressive!

What kind of clear do you use? Dope colors or acrilyc?

Thanks a lot Claudio! i sympathize with your country situation, to a less degree we have similar shortcomings
with the vinyl ( this i know you can find easy in Argentina) you donīt need the clear to seal, and have a very thin paint lip, so after some 1200 sanding itīs almost invisible.
i use auto lacquer solid colors, polyester for metallic and the clear coat is 2 part poliurethane auto clear, polished. hard to achieve due to weight restrictions, but worth the effort.
regards from Brazil

[Claudio Chacon]

Thanks a lot Claudio! i sympathize with your country situation, to a less degree we have similar shortcomings
with the vinyl ( this i know you can find easy in Argentina) you donīt need the clear to seal, and have a very thin paint lip, so after some 1200 sanding itīs almost invisible.
i use auto lacquer solid colors, polyester for metallic and the clear coat is 2 part poliurethane auto clear, polished. hard to achieve due to weight restrictions, but worth the effort.
regards from Brazil

You're welcome Fred!
I use dope for colors (clear nitrate + auto acrylic laquer pigments) I found this way to be (much) lighter than auto color acrylic laquers...as nitrate dope has no high solids in its formulation as acrylic laquers do.

So, you SAND & BUFF your clear! That's a 300+ hour aditional time!  (one can tell looking at your last picture...FANTASTIC!)

For clear coat, I use the same as you: 2K PU auto clear (PPG or Glasurit whichever is available).

You know that we have now "The Councours d'Elegance" in FAI rules! Even the B.O.M. too! (both efective January 2021).
You can win the Concours anytime presenting a plane like that! 

Later,
Claudio.

[fred cesquim]

You're welcome Fred!
I use dope for colors (clear nitrate + auto acrylic laquer pigments) I found this way to be (much) lighter than auto color acrylic laquers...as nitrate dope has no high solids in its formulation as acrylic laquers do.

So, you SAND & BUFF your clear! That's a 300+ hour aditional time!  (one can tell looking at your last picture...FANTASTIC!)

For clear coat, I use the same as you: 2K PU auto clear (PPG or Glasurit whichever is available).

You know that we have now "The Councours d'Elegance" in FAI rules! Even the B.O.M. too! (both efective January 2021).
You can win the Concours anytime presenting a plane like that! 

Later,
Claudio.

i sand and use a small electric polishing machine, no way to do it by hand LOL, but, yes, takes a ton of extra work indeed
we use the same brand (glasurit!) nice product!
i wish we had BOM/concours in Brazil, but as people are competing with composite models, they surely will avoid that to happen.
very flattering your comments Claudio! wish i could fly the whole pattern ( still learning that, but learning fast now)
let us know if you tried the vinyl and your thoughts
regards!