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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Crist Rigotti on October 10, 2022, 09:34:30 PM
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Guys, time for another build log. This one will be for my next year's airplane. It'll be a little different than my usual. This one uses an elliptical wing and stabilizer.
Here are the specs as designed as of now:
Wing Span = 56"
Wing Area = 628 sqin.
Stab Volume = 26%
Stab/Ele ratio = 58/42
Target weight 56oz.
BadAss 3515-710 motor
Jeti Spin 44 ESC.
Igor Active Time
Igor 12 x 5N 3 blade prop
New Clear 6S 2600MAH Li-Ion Battery
The wing is essentially a Pat Johnston Epiphany 617 wing slightly modified to include clipped tips and and extra 1 1/4 inches added to the root of each panel. This addition was done to keep the wing area in the 620 or so sqin.
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This reminds me to ask for detail for mounting the landing gear in the wing such as the way Paul Walker does. I've got the conventional bob Hunt method down, but would like to try another method. I think Paul uses Titanium landing gear struts?
I'll have to pm.
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Guys, time for another build log. This one will be for my next year's airplane. It'll be a little different than my usual. This one uses an elliptical wing and stabilizer.
I have seen your plans and it looks great. PLEASE don't trim it as a Spitfire...please LL~
Ken
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I have seen your plans and it looks great. PLEASE don't trim it as a Spitfire...please LL~
Ken
Ken, it won't be a Spitfire.
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Ken, it won't be a Spitfire.
Whew, that was a close one!
Ken
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Hi Crist
Been a long time since one of your excellent build threads. The new Agenda is a(nother) good looking bird, looking forward to how it turns out. Thanks also for sharing the Weight & Balance schedule. I essentially never do one of those, and will be looking to see how that sorts out...
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I have seen your plans and it looks great. PLEASE don't trim it as a Spitfire...please LL~
Ken
Do you mean that Spitfire trim has gone "Woke" ?
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Do you mean that Spitfire trim has gone "Woke" ?
LL~ No, I fly with Crist and I have a very bad memory from my own Spitfires. My step-father gave me a Berkley spitfire kit for Christmas when I was 11. No 11 year old should be allowed within 100' of a berkley kit. It was a disaster. Then in my 20's I built a stunter version in a hotel room on Ft. Walton beach while on TDY to Eglin AFB back in the early 70's on a shoestring budget. It was large, designed for a new Fox 40. I had nothing but eyeballs to do all of the alignments. It turned out looking quite nice. Out TDY ended abruptly, and I had to return to Nellis. I carried the finished but un-flown Spitfire back to Nellis where I was greeted by a covert deployment to Thailand. I was in an F-111 squadron. When I returned 6 months later my still un-flown Spitfire was hanging in my barracks room where I left it with just enough time to get it into storage before heading to Korea for a year. When I returned from Korea I had to move it from Nellis to Mt. Home Idaho. No place to fly so it stayed in storage till I was discharged. Finally got my storage container at my final destination - Dallas. It was undamaged and joined my Mustang that I had built in Korea (fabulous Hobby Shop with adjoining flying field). First flight and I had a huge warp that had developed in storage. It never flew right and it died an ugly death in our attic. So Spitfires bring back nothing but bad memories but I still think it is one of the most beautiful planes ever!
Ken
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Any chance of moving the canopy aft a bunch? ::)
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That weight and balance sheet is awesome Crist!
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Crist Rigotti build Log threads are one of my favorite things here on Stunthanger!
Looking forward to watching the build progress. Always educational.
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Any chance of moving the canopy aft a bunch? ::)
There's always a chance. A small one though.
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That weight and balance sheet is awesome Crist!
Thanks Matt.
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Crist Rigotti build Log threads are one of my favorite things here on Stunthanger!
Looking forward to watching the build progress. Always educational.
Thanks Brent.
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I started on the stabilizer today. I first built the the trailing edge. I used 2 pieces of 1/4 x 1/2 6# balsa and 1/32 x 1/2 8# balsa for the hinge slots. After cutting the 1/32 pieces to size I glued them to the bottom half of the TE, using medium CA, up against my 4 foot level to assure it remains straight. Once cured, the top half was glued on.
Then I added a piece of unidirectional carbon fiber .007" thick to the forward part of the TE using medium CA.
I then laminated 1/4 #6 balsa with 1/32 #6 balsa for the LE edge and tips again using medium CA. These were then cut to the proper size and angles. I used my Perma-Grit sanding bar with the piece held off the workbench with a scrap 1/4 balsa. This assured a nice straight line for the joints. These were then glued together using thinned Titebond glue.
I then installed the 1/8 #6 pound ribs with a 3/32 hole in each one so the air can escape when Monokoting. I use some #6 3/32 for the top and bottom sheeting this time. Nice and beefy!
Once dry I traced the outline and cut and sanded to shape. This is as far as I can go till the elevators are built.
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The elevators consist of #6 1/4 balsa and #6 1/32 balsa laminated using slow curing epoxy. Note that the 1/32 balsa grain is 90 degrees to the top and bottom 1/4 pieces. This should give me a plywood effect for stiffness.
After I glued the 1/32 balsa together, I laid out the hinge pockets and the elevator horn aluminum tubing locations. I cut a small slit about 1/16 wide in the 1/32 balsa where the aluminum tube should go and clamped each elevator together and then drilled a #30 hole for the tubing before any gluing was done.
I the traced the locations of the hinge pockets to the 1/4 balsa and used masking tape to keep the epoxy from getting into the hinge pockets. I used thin CA to glue the tubes in place on bottom 1/4 balsa. I then applied my epoxy, removed the tape, placed the 1/32 balsa onto the bottom piece and applied epoxy again and put the top 1/4 balsa on. Then it was weighted down on a flat surface till the morning.
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Ken, it won't be a Spitfire.
Yeah, a red white and blue Spitfire just wouldn't look right. ;D
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Yeah, a red white and blue Spitfire just wouldn't look right. ;D
Hmmm, depends on what your Agenda is..!
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Hmmm, depends on what your Agenda is..!
HA, good point! LL~
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Dennis, ya wanna be careful ya know, they are harvesting the corn in our area as you type and you might find yourself in a bin. VD~ %^@ n1
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OK, pretty much finished the stabilizer and elevators. All that's left to do is some detail sanding just before I cover them in Monokote.
After elevators had cured overnight I sanded the LE flat, installed the elevator horn, positioned them over my plans and marked and trimmed each end. I then capped the outboard edges with 1/32 basswood using medium CA and the inboard edge with 1/16 basswood to provide a little extra stiffness. BTW, these elevators are stiff!
Once the elevators were done, I now can taper the thickness of the stab/elevators toward the tip. The stabilizer/elevators are 17/32 thick and taper to about 3/16 at the tip. I accomplished the taper by attaching the elevators to the stab and placing them between 2 pieces of 1/2 angle aluminum with 1/32 shim underneath to bring them up to the 17/32. The aluminum pieces were tapered to give me the proper taper.
The stab/elevator were placed between the "jig" and a sanding bar was made from some 2 x 2 and 80 grit sandpaper. Some 1/4 "guides" were glued on to "center" the sanding bar over the jig.
I then use this set up to sand in the taper on both sides of the top of the stab/elevators. I then flipped over the assembly and shimmed up the tip to the proper height. I then sanded in the bottom taper on both sides.
I then sanded in the "sharp" LE and rounded the TE. Then went over the entire stab to sand smooth and blend it all together. I use some 1/32 basswood to line the stab edge where the elevator is to provide some strength but most importantly to give me a crisp edge to Monokote to. The TE were kept about 1/8 thick.
The stabilizer weighs 37g and both elevators weigh 39g. The 3/32 elevator horn weighs 8g. The stabilizer is 27g under budget. The elevators are 1g under budget. For a total of 28g under budget so far!
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I am going to use a fin I had left over from another project and built the rudder.
The rudder is made from 2 pieces of 6# 1/8 and 1 piece of 6# 1/32. The hinge pockets were cut into the 1/32 sheet. I made sure that the grain of all 3 pieces were going in different direction to add strength and stiffness to the rudder. I used medium CA instead of epoxy because I didn't want to wait overnight for the epoxy to cure. I then trimmed the rudder to shape and glued on a 1/32 basswood cap to the rudder using medium CA. The rudder was then sanded to shape. The bottom was left just a little long so it can be matched sanded to the fuselage.
The fin weighs 13g and the rudder 4g. Between the 2 I'm 12g under budget for a total of 40g under budget so far.
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Almost 1.5 oz ahead, all in the tail after your first 2 subassemblies - that is a pretty awesome start! Keep that up you might end up chopping the nose for balance!
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Almost 1.5 oz ahead, all in the tail after your first 2 subassemblies - that is a pretty awesome start! Keep that up you might end up chopping the nose for balance!
Yep!
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Today I started on the flaps. They are made from 2 pieces of 3/16 balsa 6# and 7# and 1 piece of 6# 1/32 balsa.
These were constructed much the same way as the elevators. The epoxy is curing over night. Tomorrow I'll finish them.
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I finished building the flaps today.
I used some 1/16 basswood along the root and 1/32 basswood at the tip and then tapered both sides to about 1/8 at the T.E and rounded off the LE. I then sanded in my hinge pockets.
Total weight of the flaps is 73 grams. 7 grams under budget. So far 47 grams under budget.
I usually build the wing next, but I'm waiting on some Yatsenko demountable landing gear to be made and shipped so I'll start the fuselage next.
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Started the fuselage today. I'm using 7# 3/32 balsa with a 1/64 ply doubler. I had to splice on an extra piece to make the the length. I used a 7.5# piece of 3/32 balsa for that and made the splice on the front end where it will be doubled up with the 1/64 ply.
I place the sides on the plans and then mark all the cut outs. I then cut both side out at the same time. Once that is done, I place them back on the plan with the fuselage tops together and then mark the bulkhead locations. I then cut out and epoxy glue on the doublers.
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Fuselage sides are complete and ready to join.
After the glued cured on the doubler it was trimmed and sanded flush, both the battery and elevator horn hatches were installed, the 1/8 square along the bottom was glued in with thin CA, and the tri stock was added to the firewall and forward battery compartment bulkhead. These were added for extra strength but also for smoother cooling air flow.
I also cut out for the battery disconnect and the ESC switch.
I started on making the bulkheads. The firewall is made from 1/8 fiberglass that I got from Bob Hunt. I used 1/64 ply with a 3/32 balsa core assembled with medium CA.
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A slight redesign.
The front top is only a 1/2 inch higher and the canopy is 7/8 inch higher. The bottom half stays the same. What do you think?
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What do you think?
I think it's a perfect opportunity to move that canopy aft. >:D
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I think it's a perfect opportunity to move that canopy aft. >:D
LOL!!
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For what it is worth, I prefer the top one. Those rounded rudders and fins do nothing for me. The rounded rudder appears to be a Curtiss trademark and was on almost everything Curtiss built (P-40, Helldiver, C-46, etc.).
The canopy shape and position looks fine to me.
Is that airfoil the "ice cream cone" type?
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Crist,
I cannot thank you enough for sharing this building project with us.
it's greatly appreciated.
in my opinion the new fuse version provides a bolder appearance, which offers more visibility on the air for viewers.
sina
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Interesting. This is one of my latest efforts. The shape of the fuselage, canopy, and vertical tail is quite similar to your redesign. Maybe this photo of a completed plane will help you decide.
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For what it is worth, I prefer the top one. Those rounded rudders and fins do nothing for me. The rounded rudder appears to be a Curtiss trademark and was on almost everything Curtiss built (P-40, Helldiver, C-46, etc.).
The canopy shape and position looks fine to me.
Is that airfoil the "ice cream cone" type?
Yeah it sure is an ice cream cone type.
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Crist,
I cannot thank you enough for sharing this building project with us.
it's greatly appreciated.
in my opinion the new fuse version provides a bolder appearance, which offers more visibility on the air for viewers.
sina
Sina,
Good to hear from you!
I agree it has a bolder look.
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A slight redesign.
The front top is only a 1/2 inch higher and the canopy is 7/8 inch higher. The bottom half stays the same. What do you think?
Hi Crist,
With the elliptical wing, stab and elevators I like the rounded rudder. Any straight line just wouldn’t look right.
Just my 2 cents which is only worth about 1/8 of a cent because of inflation. LL~
Dennis
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In looking at your changes again I have to remember that it is an elliptical wing. My first reaction didn't consider that. Move the canopy back some and you have it. I would round the rudder bottom just a bit more. Maybe a taller round one like the Russians are using. This is going to be a really cool airplane but, watching your Agenda fly on Friday makes me wonder if maybe you are making it's backup! LL~
Ken
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My $.02 worth - combine the two. Fuselage outline of the top with the rounded rudder of the bottom. Curves are beautiful, on planes & women!
Steve
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This sort of combines all of the current thoughts.
Ken
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Thanks guys for the suggestions. I'm looking into what I like best. Stay tuned!
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This sort of combines all of the current thoughts.
Ken
Yeah, I put the rounded fin/rudder on the new design. It has merit.
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I made up the fuselage formers tonight. I used some 8.5# 1/16 balsa for the formers along with some 3/32 balsa and 1/64 ply for the forward battery bay, and the LE wing former. All assembled using medium CA and thin CA on the "window frame" formers.
The nose ring is 2 pieces of 1/16 basswood glued with medium CA with the grain 90 degrees to each other. A 5mm hole was drilled to match the motor shaft when aligning the front end.
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After the formers were made I framed up the fuselage using my home made jig.
Once all the formers were in place and the tail post was checked for vertical, I glued them in with thin CA. I then removed the fuselage and went over each side of the former with thin CA again. The forward battery bay former was then given a coat of medium CA.
I then sanded the top and bottom using 120 grit sandpaper taped to a flat surface. I then epoxied in the motor firewall. It has 3 degrees of right thrust and a 1/2 degree of down thrust.
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This sort of combines all of the current thoughts.
Ken
WOW! I like it. I mean I really like it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Jerry
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After the firewall had cured, I installed the upper battery bay fuselage stiffener. It was made from 1/8 lite ply. This keeps the nose nice and rigid. Thin CA was used.
I then installed the bottom of the battery bay which is also 1/8 lite ply using thin CA.
I then glued in the ESC "cooling tunnel" made up with some scrap 1/16 balsa. I then sanded them even with the bottom of the fuselage.
Then I installed some 1/16 x 1/4 stiffeners aft of the wing TE along the top of the fuselage. Minimal weight gain with a lot of stiffness added.
A piece of 3/32 cross grain balsa was added to make up the stabilizer platform.
Then on to the tail wheel mount. This consists of 2 layers of 1/16 birch ply and a 5/8 long piece of 3/8 square maple motor mount. After cutting and fitting 1 piece of the 1/16 ply, I found and marked a center line. I use 5/64 music wire for the tail wheel strut and used a small piece to space the other 1/16 ply pieces. Then the whole thing was trimmed to size and a 4-40 blind nut was installed that will be used for the retaining screw. I then rounded off 2 corners of the maple piece and glued it to the plywood at the proper angle. I then drilled a 3/32 hole through the plywood and maple piece for the strut wire. Then the assembly was epoxied into position.
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Afternoon. It's been over a week since any posting. Is everything ok, or did life simply get in the way?
Steve
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Afternoon. It's been over a week since any posting. Is everything ok, or did life simply get in the way?
Steve
A small project and some traveling. Will get back at it this week.
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Cool! Always look forward to your build logs. Given the way things go nowadays, just wanted to make sure nothing bad happened to you.
Steve
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I started on the molds for the top blocks.
The bulkheads are cut from 1/8 lite ply and the base is some 1/4 cabinet grade ply. I'll glue in some 2 pound blue foam, then carve them to shape.
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I cut and epoxied the 2 pound foam to the molds last night. Today I trimmed the foam and sanded it with 80 grit sandpaper. Before I glued in the foam, I blackened the edges of the formers with a black Sharpie. This now acts as a guide when sanding. When the black starts to disappear, then I've sanded far enough.
I'm now in the process of adding 3 coats Polycrilic to the moulds to stiffen them and to help waterproof them.
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Molded the top block skins today. There are 3/32 thick and 5.6 pound wood.
I use the bed sheet method to wrap the wetted balsa around the mold. This will leave a nice flat surface as opposed to Ace bandages which leaves "waffle" marks in the balsa.
I then cut out the bulkheads from some 6 pound wood and when the balsa was dry, I glued them in with thin CA. I then sanded the bottoms flat and trimmed the fore and aft ends. The total weight of the top blocks is 24 grams.
With them taped on the fuselage, it weighs 151 grams. 59 grams to go for the nose/chin block, the bottom 3/32 sheeting, the upper tail block, canopy, and the battery holder. I think I'll be close to my budget of 210 grams.
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Oops! I made an error in molding the front 2 blocks. I drew some formers wrong, hence the sharp bend in the shape of those blocks. Back to the drawing board to redraw the formers and redo the blocks.
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Removable Gear Leg , ( not a particularly good illustration, But. )
(http://discovery-aeromodels.com/plugins/content/mavikthumbnails/thumbnails/397x297-images-landing-gear-rear-landing-wheel-on-the-model.jpg)
Mutter , the picture wont go on . Basically vertical ply boxes . If the sping bits aft , there wants to be a packer holding the leg forward , or they spring around on rough surfaces .
looks like a neat plane . H^^
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Did you find out how PW mounts his LG legs? I'd like to know. I think it would be important to slant the legs a bit, to give some flex, but Paul probably has calculated all that stuff...so do whatever he says! D>K Steve
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Did you find out how PW mounts his LG legs? I'd like to know. I think it would be important to slant the legs a bit, to give some flex, but Paul probably has calculated all that stuff...so do whatever he says! D>K Steve
No I haven't talked to Paul. I do plan on bending them so they slat outward some.
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Hooboy! This is looking good Christ! I've always liked your build threads!
Speaking of landing gear retainers, Bob Hunt has a very elegant way of doing things which I've used on a couple of models (even I beamers)
Have a dig around and see if you can find it, but in a nutshell...
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Hooboy! This is looking good Christ! I've always liked your build threads!
Speaking of landing gear retainers, Bob Hunt has a very elegant way of doing things which I've used on a couple of models (even I beamers)
Have a dig around and see if you can find it, but in a nutshell...
Been doing them that way since the 60's. It is to me the best method. I line the bolt holes with thin wall aluminum tubing and put a thin strip of 1/32 plywood over the blind nuts. Nothing can ruin your day better than hearing that "clink" as a blind nut falls into the wing.
Ken
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Crist,
Quick question. Looking at the fuselage cutout for the wing it appears that you are going to use a "snow cone" airfoil. Is that right? I am just curious because I been reading up on some of the old threads related to airfoil section, their thicknesses and how glow vs. electric might enable different airfoils.
Thanks,
Teo
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Hooboy! This is looking good Christ! I've always liked your build threads!
Speaking of landing gear retainers, Bob Hunt has a very elegant way of doing things which I've used on a couple of models (even I beamers)
Have a dig around and see if you can find it, but in a nutshell...
Greg,
Yes, I used Bob's method over the last 10 years or so. On this model I wanted to try the titanium removable landing gear from Yatsenko.
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Crist,
Quick question. Looking at the fuselage cutout for the wing it appears that you are going to use a "snow cone" airfoil. Is that right? I am just curious because I been reading up on some of the old threads related to airfoil section, their thicknesses and how glow vs. electric might enable different airfoils.
Thanks,
Teo
Yes, that's the airfoil that comes with Pat Johnston's Epiphany series of model designs. He provided the laser cut wing kit.
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Greg,
Yes, I used Bob's method over the last 10 years or so. On this model I wanted to try the titanium removable landing gear from Yatsenko.
Ahh cool, I must have missed that in my drug addled state (at home sick).
I've thought about using a yatsenko style LG system myself, my plan was to machine a nylon or delrin block to accept the LG leg, and then bolt that to a ply rib.
I'll be waiting with bated breath to see what you come up with.
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I pretty much finished shaping the nose and molding new top blocks.
From the firewall forward I used 9/16 end grain balsa and a 1/8 basswood nose ring. I cut the hole in the balsa first then glued on the nose ring with medium CA. This was then epoxied to the fiberglass firewall/mount. I used the motor mounted to the firewall and a 5mm hole drilled in the nose ring to center everything up.
I then added a 1/2 thick 6 pound chin block. This was glued into place using Titebond glue. I then added a 3 inch wide 1/8 5.6 pound balsa for the bottom block. Then the whole thing was sanded to shape using 80 grit or 120 grit taped to various diameters of PVC tubing.
The molded top blocks were pulled from the molds, formers added using thin CA, and the bottoms were sanded flat. Then their mating surfaces were sanded to match each other.
With the nose block done and the molded top blocks taped into position, hatch covers it weighs 184 grams. All that is needed is the canopy (on order), the accelerometer mount, and the top tail block. My budget is 210 grams. It's going to be close!
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Perfect place for a nose scoop with that taper. Throw some air on the battery. Sorry I didn't have a more finished picture. Just a thought.
I had too much top fuselage taper at the nose.
Love the rails in the battery box. Lots of folks forget that you can't just cool one side, but then your batteries don't have sides. ???
Ken
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Perfect place for a nose scoop with that taper. Throw some air on the battery. Sorry I didn't have a more finished picture. Just a thought.
I had too much top fuselage taper at the nose.
Love the rails in the battery box. Lots of folks forget that you can't just cool one side, but then your batteries don't have sides. ???
Ken
I'll think about a scoop.
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Yes, that's the airfoil that comes with Pat Johnston's Epiphany series of model designs. He provided the laser cut wing kit.
Off topic, but for some reason the original airfoil of Pat Johnston Skywriter kit has been replaced with a similar style icecream cone airfoil, I wonder why.
But nice workmanship, Crist!
L
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I'll think about a scoop.
No scoop, that fuse slope looks very nice!!!
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No scoop, that fuse slope looks very nice!!!
How can you make an Ice-cream cone airfoil if you don't have a scoop? ???
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+1 for no scoop! I'm all for cooling on electric models, but if it ain't broke...
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Wow, it's been 9 days since I made a post to this thread. I've been busy with my other hobby and getting the house trim painted along with other family activities.
The weekend of the 17 - 19 I was at out Antique Radio, TV, and Phonograph Convention here is Dallas. I entered 2 events in the contest. AC Radio Pre WWII and Television Receivers.
My 1936 Philco 36 B Cathedral Radio won 1st place!
My 1949 Admiral 19A11 7" TV won 1st place too!
Then at our Banquet, I won the Best Restoration of the contest for my Philco radio!
Needless to say I was very happy and had a good time at the Convention.
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Back to the Agenda.
I decided to make my own canopy. I used some poplar I got at Home Depot and epoxied it together, then shaped it using the side view and bulkhead view for templates.
I then made up a vacuum box from 1/4 MDF and 1X3 furring strips. It measures 11 x 14. The same size as the PETG I got from Amazon. I still have to make the frame that hold the PETG while I "bake" it in the oven. I ran out of time. I'll get to it later this week.
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Good to hear you are getting recognition for your other hobby. H^^
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Thanks Doc.
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Congrats on your accomplishments in the radio and TV restoration event! VERY COOL!! That radio is immaculate! I can't imagine watching football on that TV. n~
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Congrats on your accomplishments in the radio and TV restoration event! VERY COOL!! That radio is immaculate! I can't imagine watching football on that TV. n~
Thanks Doug.
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Well, I'm back on the Agenda after being out of town.
I tried vacuum forming a canopy this evening. No go. I think Amazon sold me acrylic plastic rather than PETG.
So I ordered some real stuff from eBay. It'll be here in a week. In the meantime, I used a Pepsi bottle and a heat gun to see if it would work. It did, but the PETG is only about .015". Too thin, but it did produce a canopy to prove the mold.
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Today I messed with mounting the Fiorotti timer. I cut 2 holes in the fuselage side and lined them with aluminum tubing. For the switch I used 5/32 OD and for the LED I used 7/32 OD.
I then worked on the accelerometer mount. It is supported by some 1/2 x 1/4 balsa and the mount is made from 1/16 PCB material. Then the crossbars are made from 1/8 Birch ply. I'm using 2-56 socket head screws and blind nuts. I cut some rubber "isolators" from some black Du-Bro fuel line cut to about 1/8 high.
I'm pretty much done building the fuselage for now except for the canopy and bottom sheeting. The fuselage weighs 193 grams and still needs the bottom sheeting (I estimate 10 grams) and the canopy. I think the canopy could weight 20 grams. So as of right now it looks like I'm going to be about 20 grams over budget. Not bad seeing I've made this fuselage a bit more bullet proof than the previous ones.
I'm 47 grams under budget before the fuselage and let's say I'm 20 grams over on the fuselage, that leaves me 27 grams (@ 1.0 oz) under budget with the wing left to build.
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Today I messed with mounting the Fiorotti timer. I cut 2 holes in the fuselage side and lined them with aluminum tubing. For the switch I used 5/32 OD and for the LED I used 7/32 OD.
I then worked on the accelerometer mount. It is supported by some 1/2 x 1/4 balsa and the mount is made from 1/16 PCB material. Then the crossbars are made from 1/8 Birch ply. I'm using 2-56 socket head screws and blind nuts. I cut some rubber "isolators" from some black Du-Bro fuel line cut to about 1/8 high.
I'm pretty much done building the fuselage for now except for the canopy and bottom sheeting. The fuselage weighs 193 grams and still needs the bottom sheeting (I estimate 10 grams) and the canopy. I think the canopy could weight 20 grams. So as of right now it looks like I'm going to be about 20 grams over budget. Not bad seeing I've made this fuselage a bit more bullet proof than the previous ones.
I'm 47 grams under budget before the fuselage and let's say I'm 20 grams over on the fuselage, that leaves me 27 grams (@ 1.0 oz) under budget with the wing left to build.
Love the tubes! Use them everywhere. wonder if using a clear hard plastic tube might make the light appear bigger? The light is my only, and I do mean only, thing I don't like about the Fiorotti timer.
Ken
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Just a quick look at what I'm shooting for.
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Today I messed with mounting the Fiorotti timer. I cut 2 holes in the fuselage side and lined them with aluminum tubing. For the switch I used 5/32 OD and for the LED I used 7/32 OD.
Crist, how do you actually mount the Fiorotti timer to the fuselage? Inquiring minds need to know! ;D
Dennis
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Crist, how do you actually mount the Fiorotti timer to the fuselage? Inquiring minds need to know! ;D
Dennis
I'm using a 4-40 screw and 1/2" dowel about 5/8 long, with the hole drilled off center. I have a blind nut in the LE plywood bulkhead. The screw goes into the blind nut and the 1/2" dowel acts as a cam, pinching the timer to the fuselage side. Then the screw is tightened.
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I pulled the canopy today. I used some .030 PETG I got off eBay.
I worked a little on the bottom sheeting and I'm calling the fuselage at 225 grams. 15 grams over budget.
This leaves me at 32 grams under budget with the wing left to build.
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I started the wing today. Remember that this is a Pat Johnston Epiphany 617 wing that I clipped the tips and added 1 1/4 inches to the root of each wing panel to come up with 56 inch wing span and 628 square inches. Pat supplied the laser cut ribs and such. But due to my modification, I couldn't use the flap material, spars, and trailing edge sheeting that he provided. BTW, when assembling the wing, the spar slots were dead on and the accuracy of his laser cut ribs is outstanding. I also decided to go with a fuselage mounted landing gear.
Besides the mods listed above I also went with a 1/4 thick TE instead of the 1/8 on the plans. I'll also mount the bell crank just forward of the spar using 1/8 basswood doublers like the lost foam method does. And will use the eyelet method for the lead out guides. I had to come up with a tip rib but that was very easy because of the "ice cream cone" airfoil.
I'm building the wing on a sheet of plate glass that has been shimmed to somewhat even and level. I sprayed a light coat of glue on the plans and stuck them down to the glass. I then determined where the jig blocks will go and cut the plans away from that area. I then glued the blocks to the glass using 3 small drops of medium CA. Talking to Pat, the wing is usually built in 2 panels and then joined. I decided to build a 1 piece wing. After aligning the blocks and shimming where the 5/16 aluminum tubes will go using masking tape I was finally ready to start the wing.
I first filled in the ribs where the Landing gear blocks would have gone and notched the ribs for the 1/8 basswood bell crank mount. I marked the rib locations on both top and bottom spars, the trailing edge, and leading edge. I slid the ribs onto the rods and placed them into position. I then added the top and bottom spars, and pinned on the trailing edges. It then glued the spars, TE, and LE. This wing is strong!
Tomorrow I'll fair the LE and TE's, and begin sheeting the wing.
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Great work, as usual. Just a couple of questions/suggestions:
1. I would recommend radiusing all the internal corners for the rib cutouts to eliminate possible stress risers.
2. On the ribs near the tips...how are you going to address the "bubbles" created by the jig tubes? Remove tubes, fill in, and sand down flush? How will that affect the trailing edge sheeting? Hopefully it won't induce any warps.
Steve
edit: had to modify slightly on a different laptop as the battery for keyboard died in the middle of typing.
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Great work, as usual. Just a couple of questions/suggestions:
1. I would recommend radiusing all the internal corners for the rib cutouts to eliminate possible stress risers.
2. On the ribs near the tips...how are you going to address the "bubbles" created by the jig tubes? Remove tubes, fill in, and sand down flush? How will that affect the trailing edge sheeting? Hopefully it won't induce any warps.
Steve
edit: had to modify slightly on a different laptop as the battery for keyboard died in the middle of typing.
The bubbles will be cut down when the wing is off the jig tubes.
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Just a suggestion. When you slide out the jig tubes, slide in 2 same diameter 12" or so CF tubes to the center and glue them in. I use 2 arrow shafts joined in the center by a short length of all-thread into the arrowhead ports. When I do the center section I unscrew them and slide one out halfway and the other all the way out. Then I slide the center tube in and put the rest of the shafts back in. Clamp it back down and proceed with sheeting the center section. If the BC is in the way, just do the back one. Really stiffens the center section. I use the same jig you do (only yours is better). Ice cream cone airfoils are really easy to fully sheet too. You give that any thought?
Looking forward to videoing its first flight - ken
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Just a suggestion. When you slide out the jig tubes, slide in 2 same diameter 12" or so CF tubes to the center and glue them in. I use 2 arrow shafts joined in the center by a short length of all-thread into the arrowhead ports. When I do the center section I unscrew them and slide one out halfway and the other all the way out. Then I slide the center tube in and put the rest of the shafts back in. Clamp it back down and proceed with sheeting the center section. If the BC is in the way, just do the back one. Really stiffens the center section. I use the same jig you do (only yours is better). Ice cream cone airfoils are really easy to fully sheet too. You give that any thought?
Looking forward to videoing its first flight - ken
Ken,
Thanks for the suggestions.
I'm going with the open bay look.
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The wing build continued with using 1/8 Liteply for the bell crank mount. I didn't have enough 1/8 basswood. The top mount was glued into place using 20 minute epoxy. Then the TE was planed and sanded down to the top of the ribs, the spars and ribs were also sanded down to ready the wing for sheeting. All 1/16 sheeting was 6.2 to 6.8 pound wood. I used Titebond glue thinned about 20%. The trailing edge, leading edge, center section, and cap strips were then glued on. I used pins and weights till the glue was dry.
The wing was then turned over and placed back into the jig blocks. Here I should have done something a little different. The jig blocks were notched to clear the spars but I failed to move the wing forward then back instead I just let the spar sit on top of the jig blocks! Duh! this then caused me to shim the spar in several locations. Getting old I guess. In any case the wing came off the jig straight.
I then again tapered the trailing edge and sanded down the spars and planed and sanded the leading edge too in preparation to sheeting. I then glued in the other bell crank mount using epoxy. Then the bottom was sheeted and cap strips were added. I also added the training edge and spar shear webs. I'm including extra photos I took during this process.
Next up are the tips, lead out guide and tip weight box.
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More photos.
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For the tips I created an extra rib which is the tip rib. I call it R13. The wing thickness is an even taper from root to tip, so it was easy to extend the spars out to the tip rib. this gave me the height. From the spar to the trailing edge was also straight so that was easy too. I then continues the leading edge the same way so that gave the the height there. Then I just added a curve to connect the leading edge then aft to the spar. It took longer to describe it than to do it!
I then cut off the humps from R12 and added a piece to double up that rib. This also gave me a "shelf" for the tip sheeting to rest on. I then glued on R13 to the spars making sure the trailing edge was inline with R12. I then cut out the tip sheeting from 1/16 and glued them on using thinned Titebond glue.
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Next up was the tip weight box. I had an old Hobby Fasteners box and used it. I surrounded it with 1/164 ply with the ply being 1/4 higher than the box. I then glued it in place. I made the cover from 1/16 ply and 1/4 balsa with a 7/32 aluminum tube that will go around the 4-40 socket head screw. This was screwed into place and the aft and inboard sides were surrounded by 1/4 balsa so the covering would have a place to adhere to. Then the whole thing was sanded down to match the airfoil.
Then I started on the leading edge. I use some 6.5 pound 1/8 balsa. After trimming the leading edge sheeting and sanding the front smooth and flat I traced out each leading edge. After cutting them out a little oversize I glued then in place using thinned Titebond glue and masking tape.
When the glue was dry I shaped the leading edge using a sanding block to get the rough shape and the use some 120 grit sandpaper like I was shinning shoes to finish shaping the leading edge into a nice round shape. I followed this up with some 320 grit in the same manner.
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On the outboard tip I added a 1/16 basswood plate using medium CA. And sanded it down to match the airfoil.
For the lead out guide I used 2 pieces of 3/32 basswood and 1/16 basswood as the tip plate. The 3/32 basswood was glued together with their grain 90 degrees to each other using medium CA. This was then glued to the 1/16 basswood tip plate. I then laid out the 1/8 holes, drilled them, then I used a hacksaw blade to cut out the "slot" between them. I then sanded it and added some thin CA to stiffen the holes and slot.
Then the assembly was glue to the tip rib using medium CA. It was then sanded down to match the airfoil.
I then terminated the leadouts using annealed 1/16 brass tubing and wrapped them and covered the wraps with 1/8 clear heat shrink.
The wing training edge where the flaps go was rounded as my usual practice. The wing was then given a light sanding and all that's left is the detail sanding just before covering.
The wing weighs 192 grams. 6.8 ounces. 25 grams under budget! That puts me at 57 grams under budget.
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I took care of some last minute details and did the final and detail sanding. I'm ready to cover the wing, flaps, stabilizer, and elevators with Monokote.
The weights of each piece as pictured in grams:
Wing - 191
Fuselage - 168
Flaps - 50
Stabilizer - 37
Elevators - 38
Fin - 16
Rudder - 4
Top Blocks - 27
Bottom Sheeting - 10
Canopy 15
Flap and Elevator horns and push rods - 47
Landing Gear and wheels - 36
With the carbon fiber Landing gear, I'm 82 grams (2.9 oz) under budget for a 56 ounce airplane.
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That is awesome. H^^
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I just had to do it! Gotta fit the fin yet.
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Should I clip the stab tips?
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The old DOC says NO. H^^
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Should I clip the stab tips?
I would rather you round the wingtips but if that is not in the cards then perhaps. Take a top view picture and put it into MS Paint and edit the Pix. It will tell you what to do.
It first has to please you and this plane is really looking good.
Ken
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Should I clip the stab tips?
No, add "real" wingtips. y1
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No, add "real" wingtips. y1
LOL!
Merry Christmas Wayne.
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You could mold some super light carbon fiber wing tips. The inboard one could be removeable to allow you to use your current adjustable leadout setup. Or, carve the outboard tip out of balsa, then mold the inboard tip from it. Bet'cha can't do it! >:D
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LOL!
Merry Christmas Wayne.
I'm serious Crist, it needs them. Would look MUCH better when finished than chopping off the stab/elevator to match. y1
Merry Christmas to you too! H^^
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I'm serious Crist, it needs them. Would look MUCH better when finished than chopping off the stab/elevator to match. y1
Merry Christmas to you too! H^^
I knew you were! I should have said chuckle!
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I knew you were! I should have said chuckle!
No worries, I figured. :)
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Don't people like, "Clipped", wings?
Craig
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Don't people like, "Clipped", wings?
Craig
On a Reno Unlimited yeah, but not in this case. :)
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I agree with warbird. H^^
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I have the white Monokote on.
Next is the hinging and trim.
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LL~
I have the white Monokote on.
Next is the hinging and trim.
That white is so bright it makes the fuselage disappear! Looking great. I see you averaged all of the advice on the tips and did nothing. I am doing a lot of that nowadays. LL~
Ken
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I love your full body version. This wing with the +P airfoil is a super performer. As fun as your build thread is, I predict the flying is going to be amazing. Thanks for letting us share in your fun.
Pat Johnston
Idaho Skunk Works
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LL~That white is so bright it makes the fuselage disappear! Looking great. I see you averaged all of the advice on the tips and did nothing. I am doing a lot of that nowadays. LL~
Ken
Seeing the stab is Monokoted, I can always do something later!
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I love your full body version. This wing with the +P airfoil is a super performer. As fun as your build thread is, I predict the flying is going to be amazing. Thanks for letting us share in your fun.
Pat Johnston
Idaho Skunk Works
Pat, thanks for checking in. I am looking forward to flying this thing for sure!
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Applied the trim to the wing and stabilizer using Monokote and the "Windex" method. After it dries out overnight, I go over the trim with my Monokote iron set about 1/2.
After cleaning all surfaces with acetone, I installed the wing and flap horn and flaps. I had to cut out an extra triangle piece from trailing edge fuselage cutout the wing to slid through. I then used some 1/8 balsa and put that between each flap root and the fuselage sides. I then measured from the tail post to the flap tip on the wing and made sure that measurement was equal on both sides. I then marked the outside of the fuselage sides on the Monokote both top and bottom.
I then removed the wing and cut the Monokote inside of the fuselage 3/8 inch and then cut that edge with a bunch of triangles. I did this on all 4 edges of the Monokote. I then sealed down the Monokote real good at the root.
I then slid the wing back into the fuselage along with the flap horn. The flaps were installed and the 1/8 shims were pinned into place. Again I measured from the tail post to the flap tip and made sure the measurement was equal and the wing tips were the same distance off the bench. When I was satisfied all was good, I then tacked the wing in place with medium CA. I then carefully flipped the whole thing over and tacked the top of the wing in place.
I then fiberglassed the center section both top and bottom with 3/4 ounce glass and my laminating epoxy. I used an acid brush and forced the epoxy into the fuselage and wing joint. I then blotted off all the extra epoxy with toilet paper. It is now curing overnight.
Tomorrow I'll install the push rods and just let the stabilizer float in its slot. I'll glue it in when I have the fuselage covered in 2/10 carbon fiber and a few coats of clear dope. The fuselage will be stable and then the stab/wing alignment won't shift through the finishing stage.
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I installed the controls today. I'm using Tom Morris hardware and carbon fiber push rods. I used 4-40 hardware and nylon locking nuts. I used a 4-40 washer between the socket head screw and the ball link. This will prevent a total loss of control if the ball link pops out of the plastic link.
I also used a 4-40 fender washer on each side of the adjustable elevator horn to keep the ball link from spreading the adjustable part.
I also epoxied in the landing gear mount and the accelerometer mount.
I'm ready to install the top blocks and bottom sheeting.
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The bottom sheeting was applied today. I wet the parting surfaces with water and glued on the sheeting with my watered down Titebond glue. Then it was taped in place. When dry I rounded the fuselage edges and installed the air exit ramp. I used 1/32 balsa.
I then glued on the top blocks in a similar way.
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Some detail sanding and then I'll be ready for dope!
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I finished the detail sanding.
All dope used is Sig dope and Kleenstrip Lacquer thinner bought at Home Depot.
I applied 3 coats of 75/25 Nitrate/thinner to the bare wood lightly sanding between coats.
I then applied the 2/10 carbon fiber veil with 25/75 Nitrate/thinner.
I then applied 1 coat of 50/50 Nitrate/thinner to the carbon fiber. I then sanded with 220 grit.
I applied another coat of 50/50 Nitrate/thinner to the carbon fiber. This was then sanded with 320 grit. Weight gain from bare wood is 16 grams.
I then glued in the stabilizer using thin and medium CA, and some 15 minute epoxy to fix the elevator horn in place.
I then trimmed and fit the canopy to the fuselage and glued into place using 15 minute epoxy and masking tape to hold it in place. Look close and you'll see a 1/4 thick "shelf" that I glued to the forward side of the bulkhead to glue the canopy to. This "shelf" was sanded about 1/32 under size compared to the outside of the fuselage sides so that the canopy would be very close to the fuselage sides.
Next up was the fin. I marked on the fuselage top where I wanted to slot the top sheeting and cut that out. I then trimmed the fin to shape. The bottom portion of the fin is glued to the top of the stabilizer. Once satisfied, I glued in the fin with some 15 minute epoxy where the fin and stabilizer meet and the aft portion where the fin sits on top of the shaped block. I used thin CA to glue the fine to the sheeting.
After everything was glued securely, I put the model together to see what it would really look like.
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Once the model was assembled I did the fillets. I use Aeropoxy because of its strength. Here is a link that details how I do fillets.
http://stunthanger.com/smf/gettin-all-amp'ed-up!/legacy-40-electric-a-build-log/msg398194/#msg398194
The fillets added 8 grams. Total weight of the finish is 24 grams.
Next up the filler coats.
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I added the filler coats today. I used 50/50 Nitrate/thinner and a couple of tablespoons of Zinc Stearate. I brushed on 2 coats 90 degrees to each other. When dry I dry sanded with 220 grit. Weight gained was 3 grams. Total finish weight is 27 grams.
On to 2 coats of 33/66 Nitrate/thinner to seal the model which they are drying overnight.
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The seal coats are dry and a light sanding was done.
I then brushed on 2 coats of Sig Lite-Coat clear 40/60 dope/thinner. Then sprayed on 2 more coats of clear 33/67 dope/thinner. This then dried overnight.
I then wet sanded the model with 600 grit to level the finish. That was a lot of sanding! But the finish is level and now ready for the grey blocking coats.
Total weight of the finish so far is 29 grams.
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I sprayed on 1 blocking coat. I used Sig white with some black added. 40/60 dope/thinner. After it was dry, I began using the Bondo red glazing putty to fill the dents and imperfections.
The pictures show round one with the putty.
I just finished round 3 and it is now good enough to go with 1 more blocking coat. Then a light sanding then on to the white.
So far this step has added 10 grams.
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That is looking good. You have way more patience that I do. D>K
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Thanks Doc!
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After several rounds of glazing and another gray coat I let it dry overnight. I then wet sanded it flat using 800 grit.
Weight gained was 12 grams. Total of 41 grams from bare balsa.
Onto the white!
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Teaser!
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The white is done. I spray the whole fuselage with 2 coats, then where the fuselage will remain white, I sprayed on 3 more coats using 33/67 dope/thinner.
The next day I wet sanded it flat with 800 grit.
Added weight was 25 grams. Total from bare balsa is now 66 grams.
I'll now spray on a coat or 2 of clear to seal the white.
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WOW! Crist that looks amazing. Love the way you blended the canopy into the fuse. Can't wait to see it at the field.
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WOW! Crist that looks amazing. Love the way you blended the canopy into the fuse. Can't wait to see it at the field.
Thanks! It'll be a couple of weeks till it's ready for the circle! See you out there.
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I sprayed on 2 coats of clear 33/67 dope/thinner to seal the white. The next day I wet sanded it flat again. I missed weighing it but I figure it was close to 8 grams. I'll weight it again after the red.
I masked and sprayed on the Fokker Red today. 25/65/10 Dope/thinner/retarder. Tomorrow I'll wet sand the edges down and flatten the red. Then shoot the blue.
I'll try and remember to weight it tomorrow for those who are keeping score.
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I wet sanded the red today. Between the clear seal coats and the red I added 10 grams. 76 grams total so far.
I then shot the blue and frosted the canopy. The blue is 3 parts Dark Blue and 1 part Miami Blue. this gives a close match to the Sapphire Blue Monokote that I'm using.
Tomorrow I sand the edges and flatten the blue. Then it'll be ready for the final clear coats. I added 4 grams for a total of 80 grams from bare balsa.
My budget now allows me 20 grams for clear coats.
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Hi Crist
I have not been commenting but HAVE been watching - with a touch of envy and jealousy! The new bird is looking great. Just meeting your weight schedule would have resulted in a very good outcome. The fact that you are ahead of your weight targets is fantastic.
Bet it will fly good too!!!
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Thanks Dennis.
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The first couple of clear coats are on. It's been 2 weeks since I started the finish.
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Did it orange peel on the wing? LL~
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Did it orange peel on the wing? LL~
You may be on to something, the clearcoat on the wing looks a little it needs to buff out???v :o
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Hi Crist, do you clear the wings?
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Hi Crist, do you clear the wings?
No, they are Monokote.
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No, they are Monokote.
You need to hit them with the heat gun, they look wrinkled. LL~ LL~
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You need to hit them with the heat gun, they look wrinkled. LL~ LL~
Very funny!
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After sanding the first 3 coats of clear the weight gained was 10 grams.
Today I shot the final 3 coats. I expect the final 3 coats to weigh 10 grams too. 20 grams for the clear. 100 grams for the finish from bare wood. Right on target.
I'll let it sit for a few days to rest and harden. Then on to final assembly.
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Looks beautiful!
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No, they are Monokote.
I know, I was just wondering because some do clear monokote, very nice work btw. :)
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I know, I was just wondering because some do clear monokote, very nice work btw. :)
Monokote and electric equals no extra coatings!
Thank you.
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I assembled the airplane today. No major issues actually no issues at all.
I'm including a picture of the electronics as I built it up on the bench and all I had to do was to screw in the Arming socket and ESC switch. Fit real well.
All that's left is to add my AMA number and the name.
As it sits circle ready it weighs 53.3 ounces.
I have to bench trim and program the timer then it'll be ready for first flight.
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Hey Crist,
Just got caught up on this build. All I can say is Beautiful, just beautiful. You are making much more progress than I am with the Ringmaster 576 build. Wonderful craftsmanship Crist.
Mike
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Well done Crist, well done! I'll bet it will fly just as good as it looks!
Dennis
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Thanks guys.
Maybe this weekend the weather will be good enough to fly it!
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I flew the Agenda Saturday. 2 1 minute flights to get the lap times close. On the 2nd flight, I bounced the landing and broke a wheel. I got carried away and used too light of duty wheels. Went home and put on some real wheels and added 1/2 ounce of clay to the nose.
I flew it some more today. 2 2 1/2 minute flights to tweak the lap times and see if wings were level in both directions. The outboard wing was high in both directions. Added 1/4 ounce.
On the 3rd flight today I flew a complete pattern. Had an over run! I reset the timer to 6 minutes and 25 seconds instead of 5 minutes and 25 seconds. Old age creeping in.
Added another 1/4 ounce tip weight and flew 2 more complete patterns.
It's flying very well and I just have to get some more handle time on it. It does have a quick corner and comes out of the square corners solid.
I epoxied in 3/4 ounce of nose weight tonight. With the extra tip weight, real wheels, and nose weight, it now weighs 55 ounces even.
I charged the 2 batteries that had complete flights on them and the first flight in calm wind used 1569ma, and the second flight in winder conditions used 1492ma. These were using my 6S 2600mah Li-On batteries. Used about 62%.
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I got to see it fly today. Crist has a winner on his hands! I looked hard and just couldn’t find it doing anything wrong in the pattern!
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I got to see it fly today. Crist has a winner on his hands! I looked hard and just couldn’t find it doing anything wrong in the pattern!
When Matt can't find anything wrong, well there isn't anything. I had to leave before the first pattern but what I saw impressed me too. I have not done an ice cream cone airfoil since my 1970 Spitfire. I may have to give it a try again. I love the way it accelerates out of corners.
Ken
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Great to hear the full report, Crist. As far as the “ice cream cone” airfoil goes, it is simply a pure elliptical front with straight lines from the trailing edge tangent to the ellipse. Trim off the back 40% of the ellipse that does not need to play. I think the top secret of this very high lift airfoil is the efficiency of the ellipse. Simply put, the air flows over the airfoil without changes in the rate of change of pressure due to the mathematical properties of the ellipse. Something about calculus stuff, but over 50 years since doing that in college and any possibility of using calculus is way gone. Anyway, I hope this rambling helps.
Pat Johnston
Idaho Skunk Works
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Pat,
Thanks for those details and a great designed wing. Looking forward to more flight testing when the wind goes below 10mph! It is the windy season here in Texas.
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Nice Plane Crist,
A couple of questions
What kind and size spinner are U using. And are they available in a pusher?
Thanks.
Darrell Harvin
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Nice Plane Crist,
A couple of questions
What kind and size spinner are U using. And are they available in a pusher?
Thanks.
Darrell Harvin
Its a 2 1/4 inch spinner and I get them from Aliexpress uncut.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832516429488.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.99.33be1802FJFBHj&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US
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Over the last few days I finally got around to sanding, rubbing out, and waxing the Agenda. It shined up real nice. I haven't flown it much over the past month due to the Texas winds and family stuff.
The weather is starting to turn more toward flying weather and looking to get many flights on her before the Nats.
I added the trip strips on the wing and vortex generators this evening.
All up weight is 55.7 ounces.
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Went flying today. Wind was calm to light and variable.
I crashed the Agenda! It was the 4th flight of the day. I've been backing up and still got a few nasty bumps. The crash happened after the 3rd inside loop. I hit my wake turbulence and pancaked it in. It's very fixable. I'll get started on it right away.
One thing for sure. Igor's props are hollow! See the pics.
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Very sorry to see that, it's great that you can fix it. I could have let you know that the props are hollow and saved you that experience :)
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Very sorry to see that, it's great that you can fix it. I could have let you know that the props are hollow and saved you that experience :)
I had just left Crist at the field when this happened. The last thing we did was discuss the prop. Theory was that he pumped the hollow space with helium. It is all my fault he crashed. Endgame had a hissy fit and wouldn't arm. We gave up on it and I had to leave. If I had flown, his flights would have been in a nice breeze. He has to fix it. It is too good a plane to sit in the shop.
ken
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It's all fixed a couple of weeks ago. Gained an ounce.
Been working on trim issues. It is flying better than ever!
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Great to hear that you are back in the air.
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Christ, is the Weight and Balance table a spreadsheet that you could share with us?
For those talking about Spitfires, there was a Mk XVI with full wing tips some years back that was painted like a Mk XIV that was used in air races at Blackpool shortly after WW2.
It was finished in silver with red stripes and was the subject of a book called Spitfires and Polished Metal. It was also the subject of a detailed walk around in Flying Scale Models. Its code number was TD 248.
It upset the purists in Britain something wicked because the particular squadron never used Mk XVIs and the aircraft that was painted in the colour scheme was a Mk XIV.
The restoration was paid for by a self-made British millionaire and I always figured that since he was paying the bills, he could paint it as he wished.
The original restorer sold the airplane in the late 2000s and after a bit of maintenance by Historic Aircraft Restoration Company at Duxford, it was repainted in camo colours.
I saw the airplane at Duxford in 2010 and I thought it rather intriguing that the squadron numbers the new owner chose were not authentic for the particular aircraft but that was acceptable to the purists.
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Christ, is the Weight and Balance table a spreadsheet that you could share with us?
For those talking about Spitfires, there was a Mk XVI with full wing tips some years back that was painted like a Mk XIV that was used in air races at Blackpool shortly after WW2.
It was finished in silver with red stripes and was the subject of a book called Spitfires and Polished Metal. It was also the subject of a detailed walk around in Flying Scale Models. Its code number was TD 248.
It upset the purists in Britain something wicked because the particular squadron never used Mk XVIs and the aircraft that was painted in the colour scheme was a Mk XIV.
The restoration was paid for by a self-made British millionaire and I always figured that since he was paying the bills, he could paint it as he wished.
The original restorer sold the airplane in the late 2000s and after a bit of maintenance by Historic Aircraft Restoration Company at Duxford, it was repainted in camo colours.
I saw the airplane at Duxford in 2010 and I thought it rather intriguing that the squadron numbers the new owner chose were not authentic for the particular aircraft but that was acceptable to the purists.
The OP has my Weight and Balance Sheet