Author Topic: 1/2A Starter (Read 4136 times)

Sonny Williams · « **on:** November 03, 2011, 04:36:46 PM »

Our club, Metrolina Control Line Society is having a Fun Fly 1/2A Day November 26. I hate hand cranking the little devils. If anyone has a 1/2A starter they would part with please email me at SonPat@Carolina.rr.com. Thanks

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #1 on:** November 03, 2011, 04:45:52 PM »

I was going to send you to Tower Hobbies just to be smart-a**. But the only 1/2-A starter they list is out of stock!!!

You do know not to use regular old Cox 049 engines with a starter, yes?

GGeezer · « **Reply #2 on:** November 03, 2011, 06:30:05 PM »

Check out this listing on Ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NORVEL-LITEMACHINES-1-2-12-VOLT-STARTER-COX-/190596698488?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c6072d178

Clint Ormosen · « **Reply #3 on:** November 03, 2011, 06:43:47 PM »

Quote from: Tim Wescott on November 03, 2011, 04:45:52 PM

You do know not to use regular old Cox 049 engines with a starter, yes?

ummm...... why not?

jim gilmore · « **Reply #4 on:** November 03, 2011, 06:59:34 PM »

cox engines have little protection from excessive load from pushing the crank pin towards the backplate I think....

Jim Thomerson · « **Reply #5 on:** November 03, 2011, 08:10:11 PM »

Starter is OK on TD's. Flipping a Cox engine is an exercise in frustration. Prime in the exhaust, turn pop backwards until vertical. Attach hot glow plug battery. Hit prop forward with gloved finger. with practice it works almost every time. Glow plug not hot enough is a major cause of Cox starting problems. I'm an old Mouse Racer from way back.

Clint Ormosen · « **Reply #6 on:** November 03, 2011, 08:15:53 PM »

Quote from: jim gilmore on November 03, 2011, 06:59:34 PM

cox engines have little protection from excessive load from pushing the crank pin towards the backplate I think....

Oops. Well, I've violated that rule about a billion times!

Larry Renger · « **Reply #7 on:** November 03, 2011, 11:13:09 PM »

After you have worn excessive clearance between the prop driver and crankcase, make a washer out of .006 to .010 brass and you will have NO more problems.

I find I can punch out a center hole, then trim the outside with shears. Smooth the edges and insert.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #8 on:** November 04, 2011, 12:27:27 AM »

Quote from: Clint Ormosen on November 03, 2011, 06:43:47 PM

ummm...... why not?

Aluminum crank case, aluminum prop drive. Griiiiiiiiiiiiiiiind.

I killed a hard-starting Babe Bee that way.

Patrick Hempel · « **Reply #9 on:** November 04, 2011, 12:59:43 PM »

I was recently looking for a new ½ a green hornet starter by Sullivan, kept seeing (unavailable)? there re-tooling for a new type of battery. I remember seeing them to be ready Oct. 15th 2011 on the new hornets? So they said.
I Couldn’t wait, So Got a tower hobby starter low end w/ a hobbico 12/v battery pack. Wanted to update my eq. whitch is a little slower in rpm.
User beware.
The new one is nice ,I like it, but I also recently broke my ½a crank on a Picco not saying it’s the starter? Maybe user error, It was at 32,000 rpm on takeoff.
Too much stress somewhere?
Make note: to self not load it up when starting flip it over ready to start before using the starter.

Sonny Williams · « **Reply #10 on:** November 04, 2011, 03:51:22 PM »

Hey, Thanks guys for all the responses. FYI, I am using a Norvell .051. Yep, everybody is out of stock on the Hornet Sullivan starter. I called Sullivan and they say production is 3 to 4 weeks out so that won't help me with our little 1/2A fun fly on the 26th. The one on eBay is a bit too much for a one time deal. Anyone who has one and willing to part with it I sure would appreciate it.

dave siegler · « **Reply #11 on:** November 04, 2011, 04:15:49 PM »

You can make one in one evening.

A prop adaptor doe an electric motor will work to hold the srater cone

http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa3819/is_199711/ai_n8779047/
http://www.clstunt.com/htdocs/dc/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=103&topic_id=364739

Steve Hines · « **Reply #12 on:** November 04, 2011, 10:15:46 PM »

Brodak has the hornet 1/2a starter instock.

Steve

john e. holliday · « **Reply #13 on:** November 05, 2011, 07:09:34 AM »

I have seen more engines ruined by people that don't know how to use the electric starters. Used to have a K&B .40 that would not start with a starter. One or two flips by hand almost every time.

louie klein · « **Reply #14 on:** November 05, 2011, 08:17:15 AM »

I remember way back when reading an article in a model mag. about converting a rechargeable electric drafting eraser to a 1/2a starter. It seemed to have enough torque for the job. Maybe someone could try this. Good luck.---LOUIE

Sonny Williams · « **Reply #15 on:** November 05, 2011, 08:59:26 AM »

Steve, Thanks for BRODAK info, but according to their website like all others "Backordered".

dennis lipsett · « **Reply #16 on:** November 05, 2011, 10:05:37 AM »

Quote from: Sonny Williams on November 04, 2011, 03:51:22 PM

Hey, Thanks guys for all the responses. FYI, I am using a Norvell .051. Yep, everybody is out of stock on the Hornet Sullivan starter. I called Sullivan and they say production is 3 to 4 weeks out so that won't help me with our little 1/2A fun fly on the 26th. The one on eBay is a bit too much for a one time deal. Anyone who has one and willing to part with it I sure would appreciate it.

I have a new one without box or instructions. Had it for a few years but never saw the need for it. $20.00 plus shipping to anyone who wants it.
Dennis

Dwayne · « **Reply #17 on:** November 05, 2011, 12:58:29 PM »

Quote from: Tim Wescott on November 04, 2011, 12:27:27 AM

Aluminum crank case, aluminum prop drive. Griiiiiiiiiiiiiiiind.

I killed a hard-starting Babe Bee that way.

I've bean here for years and have never heard this one, like Clint I've used a starter on all my Cox engines several thousand times with no problems.

Clint Ormosen · « **Reply #18 on:** November 05, 2011, 07:42:48 PM »

Quote from: Dwayne Donnelly on November 05, 2011, 12:58:29 PM

I've bean here for years and have never heard this one, like Clint I've used a starter on all my Cox engines several thousand times with no problems.

Glad to see I'm not the only one. I don't use 1/2A's much, so maybe that's why I never wore one out. Even when I did use the 'lectric starter, it was never much more than a bump to get them going, (in the right direction).

Steve Hines · « **Reply #19 on:** November 06, 2011, 01:36:37 PM »

Sorry, Sonny. When I looked at it I thought it said in stock, went back and checked and it is out of stock.

L0U CRANE · « **Reply #20 on:** November 06, 2011, 03:24:05 PM »

BTW, the "Cox stuff' supplier lists drive washer spacers in two materials. I'd have to recheck to be sure of the non-metal one, but the other is some kind of steel.

At least the metal one should keep the aluminum driver and the crankcase from gall-welding themselves to destruction.

...Does require drifting the existing driver off the shaft, then replacing it. Sounds thin enough - in metal - for any Cox engine with noticeable fore-aft shaft play. Been meaning to try these.

Larry Renger · « **Reply #21 on:** November 06, 2011, 10:49:23 PM »

I make mine out of .006 brass shim stock. Punch the center hole, trim the outside with scissors. Works just fine!

George · « **Reply #22 on:** November 07, 2011, 02:33:15 PM »

Quote from: Dwayne Donnelly

I've bean here for years and have never heard this one, like Clint I've used a starter on all my Cox engines several thousand times with no problems.

I have not used a 1/2A starter but, in general, some folks don't just "bump" the starter but actually grind and grind. Perhaps a little tutorial on how to use a starter would be appropriate. My understanding is, you should squirt a little fuel or oil behind the drive plate and just "bump" it for a couple of turns. Would you guys who actually use them set us straight on the correct process?

George

john e. holliday · « **Reply #23 on:** November 07, 2011, 06:11:03 PM »

No matter the size of the engine, never try to start it up on compression. Turn it backwards til you feel compression. Then while holding the plane and starter good and solid, start the starter and bump the spinner with it. If all is well and not overloaded with fuel it should start after a turn or two. If it doesn't start immediately, grab the prop firmly by hand and pull it thru compression. Did you feel a bump? Is glow plug good? Is battery up to snuff? There are many things to think of. Sometimes it make take a bumnp or two with the starter. Never just hit the prop with the starter and keep grinding. The guys in the RC group would cringe when I started an engine. I would prime and flip the prop several times with the throttle wide open. Don't have to worry about throttle on most CL'rs. Hook up the battery and pull the prop thru to see if I got a bump. If it bumped I flipped the prop and usually the engine would start, either on high speed or low speed. Seldom used the old electric finger. Another thing to remember is on new props, sand the flashing off the edges and balance it. Not much of a problem except for balancing on wood props.

PS:Another hint an old timer taught me was to burp the engine before getting on the circle. Which means you prime and flip the prop to loosen the engine up. Hook up the battery and flip the prop. Should start and run out prime. I usually do it two or three times at the start of a day.

YakNine · « **Reply #24 on:** November 09, 2011, 05:48:47 AM »

Somebody was selling brass drive plates on Ebay so that you could use a starter on the little buggers. T.J.

Andrew Tinsley · « **Reply #25 on:** November 10, 2011, 07:47:47 AM »

For Cox reedies, you can buy a crankcase that has a brass end to the case. Not much money and they were designed (I think) for running as pusher engines. They are ideal for people who gring reedies with a starter!

Regards,

Andrew.

GGeezer · « **Reply #26 on:** November 10, 2011, 11:10:50 PM »

I have been told that 'lectric starters are for sissies and that real he-men flip & flip & flip & flip flip & flip & flip & flip flip & flip & flip & flip flip & flip & flip & flip flip & flip & flip & flip flip & flip & flip & flip flip & flip & flip & flip flip & flip & flip & flip flip & flip & flip & flip flip & flip & flip & flip flip & flip & flip & flip flip & flip & flip & flip flip & flip & flip & flip flip & flip & flip & flip flip & flip & flip & flip flip & flip & flip & flip flip & flip & flip & flip flip & flip & flip & flip

#$&%#^!!

George · « **Reply #27 on:** November 11, 2011, 08:20:37 AM »

Welllll...

I think after every fifth flip comes, tinker, tinker, tinker...where you check if you have primed too little, primed too much, or have insufficient glow.

George

Sonny Williams · « **Reply #28 on:** November 13, 2011, 05:21:07 PM »

Reply to Dennis who said he had a 1/2A starter he would sell. Please contact me at sonpat@carolina.rr.com