Author Topic: 10' of typewriterribbon ? (Read 1806 times)

jim gilmore · « **on:** September 21, 2009, 07:48:01 PM »

I was wondering if anybody has found a supply of ribbon for use as hinging material . I'm building a baby pathfinder but do not want top use the stock hinges and plan on using the ribbon as typical cloth hinges. I am not sure if ribbon from a fabric store would work and not sure what type I would need. I read that uninked typewriter ribbon would work If I could get any.

Tom Niebuhr · « **Reply #1 on:** September 21, 2009, 08:19:07 PM »

Jim,
I now use polyester as suggested by Don Hutchinson a few years ago. Installation is so easy it is scary. No more glue, no more pins. I use dope to apply, Don Uses acetone. These hinges are thin, light weight, very strong, and almost invisible. Once you have done it this way, you will not back to any other method.

Here is what Don wrote on the Stuka Forum on 9-18-09:

"I find it much easier to stick the hinges down with dope. Lay about 4 good coats on the edges and about 1/2 inch back onto the surface. I use polyester dress lining material for the hinges, thin and tough. Cut the hinges about 2 inches long by whatever width you choose. Lay the hinge in place and hit it lightly with brush wet with acetone and it is stuck and flat. After they are all on the elev or stab, place the other surface up against it do the acetone thing again. Later, take a new #11 blade and a straight edge and cut just through the hinge material about 1/2 to 5/8 back from the hinge line. A touch of acetone if needed as you peel away the excess hinge material. Slick and quick and if you need to rework a hinge a bit of acetone and it will come right up.

Don"

George · « **Reply #2 on:** September 21, 2009, 10:28:34 PM »

Quote from: jim gilmore on September 21, 2009, 07:48:01 PM

I was wondering if anybody has found a supply of ribbon for use as hinging material . I'm building a baby pathfinder but do not want top use the stock hinges and plan on using the ribbon as typical cloth hinges. I am not sure if ribbon from a fabric store would work and not sure what type I would need. I read that uninked typewriter ribbon would work If I could get any.

I have some, but it is fifty years old...I still use it. If you want some, PM me where to send it and I'll cut you ten feet.

George

Geoff Goodworth · « **Reply #3 on:** September 22, 2009, 01:41:17 AM »

Jim

I'm with Tom N on this. I have some polyester ribbon 1" wide that I tried trimming the edges of with pinking shears. I then bought some 2" wide because I found trimming along the edge of the ribon for a 2" length was more difficult than cutting across the ribbon. I still trim the formed edge of teh ribbon but the cut is only 1" and much easier to control. This might sound odd since the peices all finish the same size—well sort of—but that's why I changed ribbons. It is easier to control the wider ribbon to make the long cut.

Cheers, Geoff

kenneth cook · « **Reply #4 on:** September 22, 2009, 03:05:39 AM »

I've found that using Sig Koverall works very well for hinge material as well. I use Testor's quick drying cement but the dope method would work as well. I use a very sharp knife to cut it. This material will fray if it is pulled diagonally. I have lots of scraps from using it on prior models. I've also found that it doesn't get stiff after several coats of dope either. Ken

Ralph Wenzel (d) · « **Reply #5 on:** September 22, 2009, 05:58:14 AM »

I'm with George on this one, and I'll bet he got his the same place I got mine!!! I still have ½ a roll.

jim gilmore · « **Reply #6 on:** September 22, 2009, 07:17:35 AM »

Well I've looked in Joann's when I was able to go there and have looked online. I'm really confused by just looking what will not be melted by glue or dope . Also some of it lookes to have a ridge along the edges and others just look too thick. That why I figured that the typewriter ribbon might be the simpilest. BTW
I have been offered 10' from George and I'll take that I'm sure that will be sufficient.

On a side not has anybody tried using future wax to adhere it ?

George · « **Reply #7 on:** September 22, 2009, 08:35:42 AM »

Quote from: Ralph Wenzel on September 22, 2009, 05:58:14 AM

I'm with George on this one, and I'll bet he got his the same place I got mine!!! I still have ½ a roll.

Probably from the same source, although I never had near half a roll. The guy who gave it to me pulled some from his supply and I rolled it up.

I have used model cement, white glue, and butyrate dope to adhere it. None of those seem to affect it ('cept when you get it in the hinge gap

).

I have also been successful (.020-.15 sizes) with rip-stop nylon used in lightweight tents. You can get it in a tent-repair kit, mine was scraps from Irving Air Chute Co. (parachutes) in Lexington, KY...way back when.

George

john e. holliday · « **Reply #8 on:** September 22, 2009, 01:29:52 PM »

As Kenneth says, SIG Coverall using a straight edge and single edge razor blade. Put down with SIG Sigment glue. Dries clear. DOC Holliday

George · « **Reply #9 on:** September 23, 2009, 08:17:50 AM »

Quote from: Ralph Wenzel on September 22, 2009, 05:58:14 AM

I'm with George on this one, and I'll bet he got his the same place I got mine!!! I still have ½ a roll.

To clarify, when IBM moved their electric typewriter division to Lexington back in the fifties, there was a pile of discarded stuff headed for the dump. I was in high school at the time but a modeler friend who worked there discovered this pile of stuff which included rejected typewriter ribbon and a couple of gallons of Ambroid. He shared with other modelers and I ended up with a pint jar of Ambroid and some typewriter ribbon.
The Ambroid solidified before I used half of it. A mayonnaise jar is NOT an appropriate container. I did however, have great success with the un-inked typewriter ribbon.
If I understand the process correctly, the ribbon would be extracted fron a large roll and placed on typewriter spools or casettes. Somewhere in the process, the ribbon was inked. When the large roll got down to a certain size, the roll was changed. The discarded rolls still had some uninked ribbon on it and was salvaged by modelers. They also discarded damaged or contaminated rolls.

DOC, I have not yet used SIG Coverall but it sounds like an excellent choice, especially if using scraps

.

George

George · « **Reply #10 on:** September 23, 2009, 06:10:52 PM »

Jim, the ribbon's in the mail.

George

kenneth cook · « **Reply #11 on:** September 23, 2009, 06:30:00 PM »

I always wanted to try pinking shears to try and cut Sig Koverall. I use and discard #11 blades as needed but I generally get a few blades that paper hangars use to cut this material. I might have to cut a few extras to get some unfrayed hinges. I like it as Doc describes due to it drying clear. I use these exclusively on my 1/2 a models. Ken

Ralph Wenzel (d) · « **Reply #12 on:** September 23, 2009, 08:42:29 PM »

Quote from: George Bain on September 23, 2009, 06:10:52 PM

Jim, the ribbon's in the mail.

George

Me, too. Let us know if it's the same stuff . . .

W.D. Roland · « **Reply #13 on:** September 24, 2009, 12:34:28 AM »

Sewn hinges work nicely.
Easy to do while watching TV.

David

Clayton Berry · « **Reply #14 on:** September 30, 2009, 08:05:08 PM »

I was going to ask about using a printing ribbon with no ink. Gonna write my autobiography, but I don't want to end up in jail.

keith varley · « **Reply #15 on:** October 01, 2009, 04:14:30 PM »

Yes Sig Coverall works first class .The same produce is available at fabric stores much cheaper .Buy a half yard and you are fixed for life. Cutting with razor and straight edge works ok ,but better still, use an Olfa cutter , a sharp wheel that all fabric and quilting folks use.Available anywhere that quilters shop. Keith Varley