Author Topic: "77"...the building resumes. First wing (pics) (Read 7720 times)

Claudio Chacon · « **on:** July 14, 2009, 05:11:08 PM »

Hello folks!
After an unwanted layup, here I am again sharing with you some pictures of my project. As always, I really hope you enjoy them as well as I do every time I see a new picture posted from this great stunt community.
Let me first link you to the previously posted ones (fuses):
http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=11233.0
http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=11555.0

See you around...

Claudio
ARGENTINA

Claudio Chacon · « **Reply #1 on:** July 14, 2009, 05:21:56 PM »

Second batch...

Claudio Chacon · « **Reply #2 on:** July 14, 2009, 05:27:33 PM »

Third batch...

Claudio Chacon · « **Reply #3 on:** July 14, 2009, 05:31:53 PM »

Fourth batch...

Claudio Chacon · « **Reply #4 on:** July 14, 2009, 05:36:32 PM »

Fifth...(and more coming tomorrow)

Jim Pollock · « **Reply #5 on:** July 14, 2009, 05:43:39 PM »

Cladio,

Looks like you are using the Morris "Lincoln Log" system on that wing? It wouldn't be a cavalier would it? I did build my Shark .45 wing that way though too!

Jim Pollock

Claudio Chacon · « **Reply #6 on:** July 14, 2009, 05:50:05 PM »

Hi Jim,
Yes, It's the Lincoln Log system I'm using, but it is not a Cavalier. If you click on the links I've posted first, you'll see the plans of the ship (own project).

Regards,
Claudio.

Doug Moon · « **Reply #7 on:** July 14, 2009, 06:09:57 PM »

Claudio,

On the first post, what is the 2nd and 3rd pic showing?

Claudio Chacon · « **Reply #8 on:** July 14, 2009, 06:21:51 PM »

Doug,
That's a device I've made to glue the three piece LE and TE straight. Kind of a long-flat clamp.
See last picture of the second post also.

By the way: CONGRATULATIONS for a job well done at the Nats!

Regards,
Claudio.

jim gilmore · « **Reply #9 on:** July 14, 2009, 06:52:38 PM »

Not enough pictures....

Looks great.

EddyR · « **Reply #10 on:** July 15, 2009, 05:13:39 AM »

Very Nice building and great pictures. There is one thing I would do and you may have done it,but it does not show. Add planking between the center ribs to support the leading edge sheeting center joint. Very nice and precise work.
Ed

Allan Perret · « **Reply #11 on:** July 15, 2009, 07:28:17 AM »

Great pictures, always like to see other guys jigging.

How did you make your ribs?
Do you have any pictures of special tooling that you used to make them?

Really like your bellcrank mount.

Do you think the shear webbing would be stronger it they were between the spars, like the ones on either side of bellcrank, instead of glued to the back face of spars.

What is your opinion of the x bracing in this wing I built, strength wise compared to shear webs? These are 1/8" x 1/4", between the 1/4" spars. I know its more work..

Claudio Chacon · « **Reply #12 on:** July 15, 2009, 08:50:26 AM »

Quote from: Ed Ruane on July 15, 2009, 05:13:39 AM

Very Nice building and great pictures. There is one thing I would do and you may have done it,but it does not show. Add planking between the center ribs to support the leading edge sheeting center joint. Very nice and precise work.
Ed

Hi Ed,
Yes, the central planking will be done as soon as I finish the shear webbing on the TE.
Thank you,

Claudio.

Claudio Chacon · « **Reply #13 on:** July 15, 2009, 10:12:18 AM »

Quote from: Allan Perret on July 15, 2009, 07:28:17 AM

Great pictures, always like to see other guys jigging.

How did you make your ribs?
Do you have any pictures of special tooling that you used to make them?

Really like your bellcrank mount.

Do you think the shear webbing would be stronger it they were between the spars, like the ones on either side of bellcrank, instead of glued to the back face of spars.

What is your opinion of the x bracing in this wing I built, strength wise compared to shear webs? These are 1/8" x 1/4", between the 1/4" spars. I know its more work..

Hello Allan,
I make my ribs in the old fashioned way, as I don't have access to any special tooling:
1. Print the ribs in A4 plain paper using an ink jet printer.
2. Make xerox copies of the printings with the toner a few notches towards the dark side.
3. Flip the copy over the balsa sheet and rub the drawing with a small cotton ball slightly soaked in acetone or lacquer thinner and you will get a perfect "stamp" of the rib on the balsa sheet.
4. Make a thin plastic or ply template of the R1 rib and use it to cut all the ribs with a #11 blade, just a rough cut as close to the line as possible.
5. With a small sanding block (220 grit) sand to shape (yes, rib by rib...no short cuts here as far as I know)

I don't think that the wing would be any stronger locating the shear webbing between the spars. In fact, I think that it would be weaker, but that's only my personal and certainly non scientific opinion. Just a mere intuitive approach. What I DO know is that the "D-Box" or "D-Tube" configuration -which I use in all my wings- is strong enough to withstand all the G loads you can think of. I never had a wing structural failure with this method.

I can't give you an opinion about the cross bracing in your wing, just because I never built a wing that way. But I've seen a lot of wings built with the cross bracing between the spars and am not aware of any drawbacks inherent in the system. And yes, it's a LOT more work!

I see in your photo that the bellcranck post is mounted over balsa only, with no reinforcements. I'm sure that you know this already, but please don't forget to strengthen that area!

Thanks and regards,
Claudio.

Allan Perret · « **Reply #14 on:** July 15, 2009, 11:10:16 AM »

My bellcrank: the two canoe shaped pieces spanning across the center 7 ribs are actually a hard piece of basswood. I remember how hard it was during the sanding/ shapping to contour of wing. I fitted it to the back side of the spar. I prefer your method in between the spars, will use that methoud in the future. I also got additional support by extending the pivot post out the top and bottom of wing and thru 1/8 ply plates fitted between the fuse sides. This picture shows the ply support and you can also see the different shade of the basswood next to balsa sheeting.

Claudio Chacon · « **Reply #15 on:** July 15, 2009, 11:11:07 AM »

Quote from: jim gilmore on July 14, 2009, 06:52:38 PM

Not enough pictures....

Well...

Claudio Chacon · « **Reply #16 on:** July 15, 2009, 11:17:30 AM »

Claudio Chacon · « **Reply #17 on:** July 15, 2009, 11:29:00 AM »

Claudio Chacon · « **Reply #18 on:** July 15, 2009, 11:39:16 AM »

Last batch for now. More coming next week as soon as I can move forward with the building...
Until then

!

Claudio Chacon · « **Reply #19 on:** July 15, 2009, 12:32:39 PM »

Quote from: Allan Perret on July 15, 2009, 11:10:16 AM

My bellcrank: the two canoe shaped pieces spanning across the center 7 ribs are actually a hard piece of basswood. I remember how hard it was during the sanding/ shapping to contour of wing. I fitted it to the back side of the spar. I prefer your method in between the spars, will use that methoud in the future. I also got additional support by extending the pivot post out the top and bottom of wing and thru 1/8 ply plates fitted between the fuse sides. This picture shows the ply support and you can also see the different shade of the basswood next to balsa sheeting.

Oh, I see now. I didn't noticed the basswood piece looking at the pic.

Bryan Higgins · « **Reply #20 on:** July 15, 2009, 12:42:29 PM »

Hello Claudio

You are a master craftsman and spectacular stunt plane builder.
Thanks for sharing such great work.

Bryan

Randy Powell · « **Reply #21 on:** July 15, 2009, 12:49:31 PM »

Extremely nice work Claudio. I see we share the same taste in jigging, though mine is adjustable, same idea. Interesting leadout slider setup.

Claudio Chacon · « **Reply #22 on:** July 15, 2009, 01:09:37 PM »

Quote from: Bryan Higgins on July 15, 2009, 12:42:29 PM

Hello Claudio

You are a master craftsman and spectacular stunt plane builder.
Thanks for sharing such great work. Bryan

Oh! Thanks a lot Bryan!
You're welcome!

Claudio Chacon · « **Reply #23 on:** July 15, 2009, 01:20:50 PM »

Quote from: Randy Powell on July 15, 2009, 12:49:31 PM

Extremely nice work Claudio. I see we share the same taste in jigging, though mine is adjustable, same idea. Interesting leadout slider setup.

Thank you Randy!
Yes, I've seen your jigging device, made out of slotted angle aluminum. Very good and perpetual. But I couldn't get here that size of angle.

Randy, as far as I can tell, your "Dangerous" isn't airborne yet...when is that going to happen???

Randy Powell · « **Reply #24 on:** July 15, 2009, 01:58:32 PM »

Oh, it's been airborne. Works OK, but will never be a top line stunt plane. Looks OK, but is just over the edge on weight. If pressed I could fly it and probably do alright with it, but it's definitely a second line plane.

The one I'm working on will be a first line unit. A bit smaller, but very slick.

I've used the print and acetone trick before. Works pretty well. Have you tried the stack the blanks between root and tip right and sand down method? It works fine as long as the ribs are of equal spacing on the wing. Not worth much in a truss style construction, though.

Matt Colan · « **Reply #25 on:** July 15, 2009, 05:43:21 PM »

Looks good Claudio. Keep us posted!

Claudio Chacon · « **Reply #26 on:** July 16, 2009, 03:32:29 PM »

Quote from: Randy Powell on July 15, 2009, 01:58:32 PM

Oh, it's been airborne. Works OK, but will never be a top line stunt plane. Looks OK, but is just over the edge on weight. If pressed I could fly it and probably do alright with it, but it's definitely a second line plane.

The one I'm working on will be a first line unit. A bit smaller, but very slick.

I've used the print and acetone trick before. Works pretty well. Have you tried the stack the blanks between root and tip right and sand down method? It works fine as long as the ribs are of equal spacing on the wing. Not worth much in a truss style construction, though.

Heavy? you mean..THAT heavy? Nah...forget about the weight and enjoy that beauty!
Yes, I used the stack method, but I have never could get a decent rib set out of it, exception made with a constant cord wing of course.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #27 on:** July 16, 2009, 03:46:40 PM »

Yea, it's fussy and inexact. Plotting them out and transferring the ink is probably a better method.

Hey, when i sinks a foot coming out of a square turn and slides past the corner due to inertia, it's TOO HEAVY.

That's OK, the next one will probably be too light and I'll have to ballast it.

Claudio Chacon · « **Reply #28 on:** July 16, 2009, 03:57:48 PM »

Quote from: Randy Powell on July 16, 2009, 03:46:40 PM

Yea, it's fussy and inexact. Plotting them out and transferring the ink is probably a better method.

Hey, when i sinks a foot coming out of a square turn and slides past the corner due to inertia, it's TOO HEAVY.

That's OK, the next one will probably be too light and I'll have to ballast it.

By the way Randy, what's the method you are currently using to produce ribs?

elizio · « **Reply #29 on:** July 18, 2009, 09:33:11 AM »

Grande Claudio friend:

then these other photos, I was without words.

It is a superb work!

Congratulations!

Elizio

Martin Quartim · « **Reply #30 on:** July 18, 2009, 09:52:24 AM »

Quote from: Claudio Chacon on July 15, 2009, 10:12:18 AM

Hello Allan,
I make my ribs in the old fashioned way, as I don't have access to any special tooling:
1. Print the ribs in A4 plain paper using an ink jet printer.
2. Make xerox copies of the printings with the toner a few notches towards the dark side.
3. Flip the copy over the balsa sheet and rub the drawing with a small cotton ball slightly soaked in acetone or lacquer thinner and you will get a perfect "stamp" of the rib on the balsa sheet.
4. Make a thin plastic or ply template of the R1 rib and use it to cut all the ribs with a #11 blade, just a rough cut as close to the line as possible.
5. With a small sanding block (220 grit) sand to shape (yes, rib by rib...no short cuts here as far as I know)

I don't think that the wing would be any stronger locating the shear webbing between the spars. In fact, I think that it would be weaker, but that's only my personal and certainly non scientific opinion. Just a mere intuitive approach. What I DO know is that the "D-Box" or "D-Tube" configuration -which I use in all my wings- is strong enough to withstand all the G loads you can think of. I never had a wing structural failure with this method.

I can't give you an opinion about the cross bracing in your wing, just because I never built a wing that way. But I've seen a lot of wings built with the cross bracing between the spars and am not aware of any drawbacks inherent in the system. And yes, it's a LOT more work!

I see in your photo that the bellcranck post is mounted over balsa only, with no reinforcements. I'm sure that you know this already, but please don't forget to strengthen that area!

Thanks and regards,
Claudio.

Hi Claudio,

Another way to mark the balsa for cutting parts is doing the same procedure, but instead using acetone you can press iron it. The heat will transfer the pigment from the paper to the balsa. If you have lazer printer you don't need to make a XEROX copy. The Inkjet will not transfer the pigments with heat, XEROX copy and Laser Print will.

Keep the picutres coming of the whole process, I am sure learning and admiring them.

Martin

Bill Little · « **Reply #31 on:** July 18, 2009, 10:01:37 AM »

Very excellent work, Claudio! I will be waiting to see the completion.

Bill <><

Claudio Chacon · « **Reply #32 on:** July 19, 2009, 08:28:34 AM »

Quote from: elizio on July 18, 2009, 09:33:11 AM

Grande Claudio friend:

then these other photos, I was without words.

It is a superb work!

Congratulations!

Elizio

Gracias Elizio. Vos también construís MUY bien.
Un abrazo,
Claudio.

Claudio Chacon · « **Reply #33 on:** July 19, 2009, 08:34:45 AM »

Quote from: Martin Quartim on July 18, 2009, 09:52:24 AM

Hi Claudio,

Another way to mark the balsa for cutting parts is doing the same procedure, but instead using acetone you can press iron it. The heat will transfer the pigment from the paper to the balsa. If you have lazer printer you don't need to make a XEROX copy. The Inkjet will not transfer the pigments with heat, XEROX copy and Laser Print will.

Keep the picutres coming of the whole process, I am sure learning and admiring them.

Martin

Hello Martin,
Yes, I was aware of the iron method, but never used it yet. It's a good one too.
I'm glad you liked the pictures...
Thank you.

Claudio.

Claudio Chacon · « **Reply #34 on:** July 19, 2009, 08:38:05 AM »

Quote from: Bill Little on July 18, 2009, 10:01:37 AM

Very excellent work, Claudio! I will be waiting to see the completion.

Bill <><

Thanks a lot Bill.
Regards,
Claudio.