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Author Topic: P-Force XL build photos fuse  (Read 2115 times)

Offline MikeyPratt

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P-Force XL build photos fuse
« on: January 12, 2018, 07:37:35 PM »
I’ve started a build log on the P-Force XL.  The first photo is 1/4” of the fuse pinned to the building board with the electric nose and aligned with a long straight edge.  The second half of the fuselage is placed on top to make sure the alignment is correct.
« Last Edit: October 24, 2018, 11:20:55 PM by MikeyPratt »


Offline MikeyPratt

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Re: P-Force XL build photos fuse
« Reply #1 on: January 13, 2018, 10:12:15 AM »
Second photo above, apply the glue (Titebond) with a small paint brush.  Place the fuselage half in place and pin in down.  Weight the fuse down overnight with old books and magazines and allow to dry.  Assemble the tailwheel mount and glue in place.

« Last Edit: January 14, 2018, 10:05:32 PM by MikeyPratt »

Offline MikeyPratt

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Re: P-Force XL build photos fuse
« Reply #2 on: January 14, 2018, 07:49:13 PM »
next photo shows adding the hard Balsa 3/32” X 1/2”  cross-bracing.  The electric prototype XL has the fuse built up this way, has has been very robust and sturdy.  If you are building a glow version with 46 or larger engines I would recommend cutting pieces of 1/2” foam and gluing them in place of the balsa bracing.
« Last Edit: October 24, 2018, 11:28:49 PM by MikeyPratt »

Offline MikeyPratt

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Re: P-Force XL build photos fuse
« Reply #3 on: January 14, 2018, 07:54:25 PM »
Trim the left side of the fuselage from the front of the stabilizer opening to the end of the fuselage.  I used a razor plane them switched to a sanding block.  The end of the fuselage (rudder post) should be 3/32” at this point.

Offline MikeyPratt

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Re: P-Force XL build photos fuse
« Reply #4 on: January 14, 2018, 08:08:55 PM »
Sheet the left side of the fuselage 3/32” balsa.  Note: The grain of the wood runs at 45 degrees to the top of the fuselage using Medium CA glue, making sure you attach the outside balsa skins to the cross bracing and fuselage side.
« Last Edit: January 31, 2018, 01:47:06 PM by MikeyPratt »

Offline MikeyPratt

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Re: P-Force XL build photos fuse
« Reply #5 on: January 14, 2018, 08:24:49 PM »
Turn the fuselage over and sheet the right side of the fuselage from the plywood doubler to the tail post.  Notice the direction of the balsa grains on this side runs in the opposite direction of the sheeting on the left side. Trim the excess balsa from the sheeting along the top, bottom, the wing opening and the stabilizer opening.
« Last Edit: January 31, 2018, 02:32:08 PM by MikeyPratt »

Offline MikeyPratt

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Re: P-Force XL build photos fuse
« Reply #6 on: January 14, 2018, 10:19:06 PM »
The Fin, rudder, and dorsal fin are made from 3/16” light Balsa.  Notice the top of the fin and the bottom of the rudder have pieces of balsa with the grain of the wood in different direction of the rudder.  This is to help stiffen these parts.  Using a long sanding block sand the assembled parts so they are smooth and free if any ridges or bumps.

« Last Edit: January 31, 2018, 01:49:56 PM by MikeyPratt »

Offline MikeyPratt

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Re: P-Force XL build photos fuse
« Reply #7 on: January 15, 2018, 11:29:05 AM »
Place the fuselage on the work bench making sure it square to the work table.  Use a triangle on the bench to ensure the fuselage is square.  Glues the Fin & Rudder assembly to the top of the fuselage.  Note:  There is NO rudder offset make sure the rudder assembly is square to the work and allow the glue to dry.

« Last Edit: January 31, 2018, 01:51:26 PM by MikeyPratt »

Offline MikeyPratt

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Re: P-Force XL build photos fuse
« Reply #8 on: January 20, 2018, 10:49:47 AM »
Laminate the three Balsa pieces to make up the canopy.  Glue the canopy in place as shown in the photo making sure the canopy and the dorsal fin of the rudder meet.  You can narrow the end of the canopy where the canopy and dorsal fin come together on the top of the fuselage.

Offline MikeyPratt

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Re: P-Force XL build photos fuse
« Reply #9 on: January 20, 2018, 11:18:17 AM »
Assemble the motor mount and battery box using medium CA glue.  Note: The left side of the battery box is held in place with three magnets, this quick release cover is easily removed for battery installation and or change.  Shown in the photo is G-10 motor mount which I highly recommend using.  They are robust and very strong and do not compress when the bolts for mounting the motor are tightened.


Offline MikeyPratt

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Re: P-Force XL build photos fuse
« Reply #10 on: January 20, 2018, 11:29:52 AM »
Epoxy glue the motor mount/battery box assembly into the fuselage using slow drying epoxy.  Wipe off any excess epoxy before the glue cures and make sure its properly aligned and positioned in the fuselage.
« Last Edit: January 20, 2018, 11:57:38 AM by MikeyPratt »

Offline MikeyPratt

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Re: P-Force XL build photos fuse
« Reply #11 on: January 20, 2018, 12:00:39 PM »
Motor, spinner and prop installed before the assembly is installed in the fuselage.

Offline MikeyPratt

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Re: P-Force XL build photos fuse
« Reply #12 on: January 20, 2018, 12:09:39 PM »
This photo shows installation of the battery pack (4 cell 2600) ESC.  There is plenty of room for a 5 cell 2600 pack.

Offline MikeyPratt

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Re: P-Force XL build photos fuse
« Reply #13 on: January 23, 2018, 01:37:29 PM »
Stabilizer.
Layout the stabilizer and elevators plane on building board and cover the plan with wax paper and tape the wax paper down to the plan.  Choose a piece of of Balsa stick wood 1/4” X 3/8” (8 to 10 stock)  that is straight with even grain and free from splits, cranks or defects.  Cut the trailing to length and add the trailing edge doubler that is made from 3/16” X 1/4” balsa as shown on the plan and pin in place over the plan.  Next add the leading edges, cut a leading edge doubler from 1/4” balsa and glue that to the leading edges along with 1/4” balsa center piece. 
Cut to length add the 1/4” square balsa to the ends to complete the out side of the stabilizer frame.  Add the six 1/8” X 1/4” balsa ribs and the 3/32” X 1/4” balsa diagonal cross-braces’s.  Remove the straight pin from the frame work, and before removing the frame work From the building board sand the the top surface with a long sanding bloc to make sure all the ribs and cross bracing are flesh to the top.  Remove the stabilizer from the building board and sand the stabilizer on the opposite side, making sure all the ribs and cross bracing are flush to the bottom of the stabilizer.

« Last Edit: February 22, 2018, 07:06:55 PM by MikeyPratt »

Offline MikeyPratt

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Re: P-Force XL build photos fuse
« Reply #14 on: January 23, 2018, 01:55:04 PM »
Make two balsa skins from 1/16” contest balsa wood to sheet the stabilizer.  Pin the stabilizer frame to the building board and glue one of the balsa skins to the frame work with slow cure CA or carpenters wood glue.  Weight down stabilizer with old books and magiznes until the glue has cured.  Remove the stabilizer fron the building board and repeat the above process to add the remaining balsa skin.
« Last Edit: February 22, 2018, 07:09:11 PM by MikeyPratt »

Offline MikeyPratt

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Re: P-Force XL build photos fuse
« Reply #15 on: January 23, 2018, 02:11:31 PM »
Draw centerlines on the leading edge with a soft lead pencil, add two more lines on the leading edge 1/16” apart on each side of the center line.  These lines are to show the 1/8” radius of the leading edge.  Next, draw a pencils line paralill to the leading edge 1/4” back from the leading edge.  This line is used for reference when rounding the leading edge.  Note:  these lines will be sanded away during the finish sanding of the part.
« Last Edit: February 22, 2018, 07:10:39 PM by MikeyPratt »

Offline MikeyPratt

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Re: P-Force XL build photos fuse
« Reply #16 on: January 23, 2018, 02:56:19 PM »
Rough sand the leading edges with 100 grit sandpaper and a long sanding block until you have the leading edge to a rough shape and still see the previous drawn lines.  Using a technique taught to me by an old free flighter called “Round Sanding”.  It’s pretty easy to do and you will catch on veryquickly. Use a long sanding block with 220 grit sandpaper and sand the leading edge by working from the previously draw line on the sheeting, sand gently in long swipes at 45 angle from that line rolling over the sanding block onto the leading edge as you travel down the length of the leading edge.  Don’t push too hard and let the sandpaper and block do the work for you.  Take your time and stop after a few strokes of the sanding block, inspect you work to make sure you are not going to far.  Switch to fine 320 grit sandpaper and continue to shape the leading edge.  Note:  The drawn lines should start going away at  this point.  This only took me about 10 minutes to round the stabilizer.
« Last Edit: January 23, 2018, 07:56:12 PM by MikeyPratt »

Offline MikeyPratt

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Re: P-Force XL build photos fuse
« Reply #17 on: January 23, 2018, 03:09:09 PM »
Now would be a good time to switch to a 400 fine grit sandpaper and finish sanding the leading edge of the stabilizer.  Carefully sand the leading edge to the recommended 1/8” diameter leading edge.  Take your time and do this part carefully.  Now look for imperfections and fill then with balsa filler.  From this point on, use a foam pad to work on to the minimize dents and dings in your nearly finished parts.   Note: Do not sand off the excess leading edge and trailing edges on the ends of the stabilizers, these ends are used to attach the stab tip fins.
« Last Edit: February 22, 2018, 07:14:26 PM by MikeyPratt »

Offline big ron

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Re: P-Force XL build photos fuse
« Reply #18 on: January 24, 2018, 06:16:39 PM »
Really good info thanks for your time.
John Blanchard
Brusly, Louisiana
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Offline MikeyPratt

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Re: P-Force XL build photos fuse
« Reply #19 on: January 25, 2018, 02:07:19 PM »
Really good info thanks for your time.

Hi Ron,
Thanks for taking a look at the progress so far.  I have to admit it fun building the XL and can’t wait to fly it.  The prototype foam wing version flies great but I’m betting excite to fly a much lighter weight version.  I’ll start building the wing later this week when I finish up on the stab & elevators.

Mikey

Offline big ron

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Re: P-Force XL build photos fuse
« Reply #20 on: January 25, 2018, 08:54:58 PM »
Can't wait
John Blanchard
Brusly, Louisiana
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Online Crist Rigotti

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Re: P-Force XL build photos fuse
« Reply #21 on: January 27, 2018, 08:52:49 PM »
Enjoying the build photos Mike!
Crist
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Waxahachie, TX
Electric - The Future of Old Time Stunt

Offline MikeyPratt

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Re: P-Force XL build photos fuse
« Reply #22 on: January 31, 2018, 08:26:09 AM »
Enjoying the build photos Mike!

Hi Crist,
What’s up buddy?  Yes, I'm having a blast doing this one, lots of fun.  The prototype foam wing version was very good flyer and I'm hoping it comes in even lighter for the electric version, it should be in the high 47 or 48.

Later,
Mikey

Offline MikeyPratt

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Re: P-Force XL build photos fuse
« Reply #23 on: January 31, 2018, 09:08:32 AM »
Elevators,
Make four elevator skins from 1/16” light balsa.  Cover the plan with wax paper and glue in place the 1/4” balsa to the elevator skins.  Note: The balsa ribs are 3/32” from the end of the elevator skin.  Glue in place the 1/8” Balsa ribs and 3/32” balsa reinforcement ribs.

Offline MikeyPratt

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Re: P-Force XL build photos fuse
« Reply #24 on: January 31, 2018, 09:15:40 AM »
Using a long sanding block with 220 grit sandpaper, taper the ribs and reinforcements down to the 1/32” at the ends. 

Offline MikeyPratt

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Re: P-Force XL build photos fuse
« Reply #25 on: January 31, 2018, 09:26:18 AM »
Glue in Place another 1/16” balsa skin over the previous make elevator.  It should lay flat over the ribs and contact the trailing edge of the skin.  Sand the ribs and reinforcements down slightly until the balsa skin flush.

Offline MikeyPratt

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Re: P-Force XL build photos fuse
« Reply #26 on: January 31, 2018, 09:32:51 AM »
Secure the outer skin in place with straight pin until the glue cures.  Lightly sand the outside edges of the elevator.
Note: The trailing edge of the elevator should should be 1/8” thick after joining the upper & lower balsa skins.  The leading edge of the elevator 3/8”.
« Last Edit: February 16, 2018, 04:49:44 PM by MikeyPratt »

Offline MikeyPratt

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Re: P-Force XL build photos fuse
« Reply #27 on: January 31, 2018, 09:59:25 AM »
On the leading edge of the elevator draw a center line the entire length of the elevator.  Next, draw a line 1/4” back from the leading edge on each side of the elevator.  These lines are used for reference while shaping the leading edge.  Using a single edge razor blade, trim off the edge as shown in the photo.

Offline MikeyPratt

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Re: P-Force XL build photos fuse
« Reply #28 on: January 31, 2018, 10:06:40 AM »
Finish shaping the leading edge of the elevator with a long sanding block with 220 grit sandpaper.
Repeat the above procedure for the remaining elevator.

Offline MikeyPratt

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Re: P-Force XL build photos fuse
« Reply #29 on: January 31, 2018, 10:31:09 AM »
Make the elevator joiner wire from 3/32” music wire as shown on the plan.  Place a 1/8” O.D. X 3/8” brass bushing on the joiner before making the second bend in the music wire.  Mark the location of the joiner wire on each elevator.  Using a pin vise, drill a 3/32” hole into the leading edge 1” deep into the elevator.
« Last Edit: January 31, 2018, 02:00:55 PM by MikeyPratt »

Offline MikeyPratt

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Re: P-Force XL build photos fuse
« Reply #30 on: January 31, 2018, 12:04:04 PM »
Cut a relief in the leading edge to allow the wire joiner to sit flush with the leading edge.  Use the pin vise and the 3/32” drill bit.  Note: Harden the hole and relief cut with a drop of thin CA glue.   When the glue has cured, pass the 3/32” drill through the hole again to clean out any raised balsa.


Offline MikeyPratt

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Re: P-Force XL build photos fuse
« Reply #31 on: February 13, 2018, 11:27:00 PM »
Hinges Made Easy

This is a perfect time to talk about hinges.  The type of hinges you choose really depends on the type for finish you are going to apply to your model.  For Example, traditional finishes (silkspan, silk, polyspan) you can choose any type of hinge with great results.  My Opinion:  Nylon hinges are still the best because they last forever and very smooth and free from binding.  Go to the nearest fabric store and purchase a yard of nylon Taffida (this will last for years).  After the stab & Elevators have at least 3 coats of clear dope and sanded smooth.  Attach the nylon hinges using only clear dope.  Using two pieces of nylon per hinge, attach to the leading edge of the elevators alternating top to bottom and then reversing the order.  I’ve used this same method to attach flaps and elevators using full length hinges from root to tip.  This will make a fully sealed hinge line for the flying surface’s.  Once the elevators are attached to the stabilizer, cover the stab & elevators with silkspan and or silk and add three coats of dope.  The nylon hinges are light, you save at least 2-1/2 to three ounces over a full complement of pined hinges installed with epoxy.  Nylon hinges are strong, and silk smooth and you don’t have to seal them with tape.

For iron-on film use molded pined hinges such as Sig XX hinges, DuBro, IM,, or Kleet and follow the steps below.

First make hinge notching tool from hard balsa or ply wood.  Measure the barrel of your hing you intend to use.  The ones I used were DuBro that measured 3/32” and 5/8” wide.  Glue the 3/32” X 5/8” wood to a piece of 1/8” X 1”  X 1-1/2” balsa, glue 220 grit sandpaper to the 3/32” notch plunger.


« Last Edit: February 16, 2018, 04:43:35 PM by MikeyPratt »

Offline MikeyPratt

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Re: P-Force XL build photos fuse
« Reply #32 on: February 16, 2018, 11:49:55 AM »
Measure over 1-1/4” from the end of the elevator at the root, and 1” from the tip of the elevator.  Using the notching tool, sand a notch into each of these locations as show in the photo.  Note: Only notch each of the elevator.

« Last Edit: February 16, 2018, 04:39:49 PM by MikeyPratt »

Offline MikeyPratt

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Re: P-Force XL build photos fuse
« Reply #33 on: February 16, 2018, 01:45:06 PM »
Using a pin vise, drill four .032 holes on the leading edge of the elevator.  One hole at each end of the hinge notch and two more evenly placed along the face of the notch.

« Last Edit: February 16, 2018, 03:54:26 PM by MikeyPratt »

Offline MikeyPratt

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Re: P-Force XL build photos fuse
« Reply #34 on: February 16, 2018, 02:01:12 PM »
Make a hinge slot tool from a emery board.  Peel back the abrasive paper on one side of the emery board and sand to a thickness of 1/32”.  Using a new Exacto #11 blade, slice the leading edge between each of the previously drill holes in the leading edge notch.  Carefully insert the thinned emery board into the slot and gently open the slot to allow the plastic hinge to snugly fit into the slot.  Work slowly and take your time to ensure you have a proper fitting hinge. 

Note: It is recommended to lightly sand off all the imperfections, release mold and lettering on each side of the hinge to insure good bond between the glue and wood.

« Last Edit: February 16, 2018, 08:12:30 PM by MikeyPratt »

Offline MikeyPratt

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Re: P-Force XL build photos fuse
« Reply #35 on: February 16, 2018, 11:26:31 PM »
This is photo of the stabilizer, elevators and stabilizer tip fin.  They have not been hinged yet and they are taped and pined together. 

Offline MikeyPratt

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Re: P-Force XL build photos fuse
« Reply #36 on: February 16, 2018, 11:36:57 PM »
Ive been working on trying to come up with an attractive functional air inlet to cool the motor.  I’ve tried a number of scoops and cut out spinners to force air to the motor.  I wasn’t real happy with any of my scoops so far until I came up with jet inlet spike (or Tubro Nose). I think it’s pretty cool, should work like a champ!!!

Offline Dane Martin

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Re: P-Force XL build photos fuse
« Reply #37 on: February 17, 2018, 09:38:00 PM »
With the modern utilitarian look of a PF, that turbo nose is really the impressive icing on the cake.

Offline MikeyPratt

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Re: P-Force XL build photos fuse
« Reply #38 on: February 19, 2018, 06:18:35 PM »
With the modern utilitarian look of a PF, that turbo nose is really the impressive icing on the cake.

Hi Dane,
Thank you for your nice comments, it was really fun coming up with the Turbo Nose and it dose work.

Mikey


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