How else can I cool it and still make it look cool?
I don't like holes whacked in spinners, so I wouldn't advocate cutting the tip off the spinner unless you get desperate.
If the problem is motor cooling, then you need to get some ram-air cooling to the front of the motor. I think what I would do on this would be to extend that scoop that I see on the bottom of the fuselage all the way flush with the front of the fuselage. Then I would make it big (at least half the diameter of the motor), and functional, so that it directs air into the space in front of the motor.
Given the gap between your spinner and fuselage, I'd try to move the engine back -- ideally, I'd shoot for just enough gap that the spinner didn't have a chance to grind on the fuselage: for me that'd be 1/32" or so. This will give more room for the air to get into the motor, and less room for it to escape out of the spinner-fuselage joint.
But put that all aside for the moment -- we're diagnosing things with pictures and words, and there are other possible reasons for your problem. So if I had that plane, the first thing I'd do is try to isolate the problem. I'd inspect the installation for undue friction, and if I didn't find any I'd fly the plane without a spinner at all to see if the motor stays cool. Flying without the spinner isn't a solution, but it is a definitive diagnostic that airflow really is your problem. If the thing gets to the same temperature without the spinner as with, then cooling isn't your first problem, and you can mess with cooling all year and never solve the real problem.
The second thing I'd do is look at other profile airplanes to see how they've solved the problem. I've never built an electric CL profile, so I'm going on guesswork.
The
third thing I'd do, if the thing stays cool with the spinner off and #2 didn't yield results, is to rework my nose to match the drawing, and test.
Topic: What's the difference in these motors? (Read 1274 times)
